PDA

View Full Version : Sharpening turning tools



woodtryer
27th September 2016, 03:03 PM
I would like to know how everyone sharpens their turning tools and weather I am doing enough. I currently use a Vicmarc grinder with a 180 grit CBN (240 weren't available when I got my 180). They seem to come out sharp but is that enough or should I be going further like then putting them on a tormek?

Thanks, Peter

pommyphil
27th September 2016, 04:29 PM
I use a 180 CBN, I sometimes hone a skew but never a gouge, never felt the need. Phil.

woodtryer
27th September 2016, 04:35 PM
Ok, thanks for that. At least I know I'm not the only one stopping at a 180 CBN.

Peter.

China
27th September 2016, 04:42 PM
I use a pink Aluminium oxide wheel (60) and hone the edge

Mobyturns
27th September 2016, 05:49 PM
How sharp depends upon what you are turning, roughing etc.

No point taking an edge to honed razor sharpness if you are bulk roughing blanks, and / or taking on abrasive woods or blanks with inclusions, grit, nails etc. Likewise, its hard work doing delicate finials using a spindle gouge or skew with an edge straight off a 60 grit wheel. Same goes for gouge / tool profiles, some work better than others on certain timbers.

As your skills improve you will become more aware of when a tool is "blunt" and requires a touch up.

Your setup sounds fine for most tasks, pretty much top shelf. A quick hone of the tool edge for the more delicate work will improve the edge some. Not sure what you are using for jigs to maintain consistency of tool profiles, but well worth investing in a reputable jig system for bowl gouges etc as it saves steel and keeps everything familiar.

woodtryer
27th September 2016, 06:56 PM
Thanks Mobyturns, I have invested in the tormek gouge jig and use it on the vicmarc, works great. As for horning the gouges what would you suggest?

Peter

Mobyturns
27th September 2016, 08:11 PM
The Tormek jigs are good, sounds like you have a great setup.

I dont do much big work, and mostly do small spindle work and laminated turnings so my situation & experience is very different from a volume bowl turner. I want a keen edge all the time.

As I have the Tormek T7 with the leather honing wheel I mostly use that. When at events like the Prossy Turnout and away from the Tormek I use EzeLap or CMT diamond sharpeners / hones CWS Store - EZE-LAP Hone & Stone 3pk (http://www.cwsonline.com.au/shop/item/eze-lap-hone-stone-3pk) & CWS Store - EZE-LAP Oval Diamond Steels D5F (http://www.cwsonline.com.au/shop/item/oval-diamond-steels-d5f) for touch ups but I also use them at home a lot. Mostly I use the Super Fine grade plus I have a 600# Australian made diamond plate about 200 x 70 mm (no idea of the manufactures name but would love to find another one.) for skews. A couple of swipes each side tends to maintain a very keen edge on skews. I like to hone quite a bit before the tool goes back on my Tormek so I experience very little wear on my tools despite them doing a lot of spindle work.

woodtryer
27th September 2016, 10:14 PM
So do you use the EZE-LAP Hone & Stone on gouges (if so I guess you use it on the convex back of the gouge) or do you use the Oval Steel on the concave "inside" of the gouge?

Mobyturns
27th September 2016, 10:31 PM
So do you use the EZE-LAP Hone & Stone on gouges (if so I guess you use it on the convex back of the gouge) or do you use the Oval Steel on the concave "inside" of the gouge?

Just a quick note first, a 200mm spark grinder, or the 250+mm Tormek wheel forms a concave surface on the tool face due to the circular grinding wheel. A 150mm grinding wheel will create a more concave face from the smaller wheel.

Use the flat hone "paddles" on the outside profile of spindle & bowl gouges. Just position the hone paddle so it follows the outside tool profile (convex but with a slight concave face) and gently guide it around the profile, a few swipes is usually good enough for my work but bowl gouges will require the coarse or fine grades to restore the edge. Initially it takes a little time to get the feel for it but becomes second nature quite quickly. The oval hone is used for the flute or inside curved profile (concave) of bowl gouges. I use the flat "stone" for skews only.

Over time the touch ups will slowly change the concave grind profile with small honed faces on the cutting edge and the "heel" to wider honed faces and a less concave or flatter face on the tool. This makes honing more difficult and takes longer for each repetition. A quick retouch on the grinding wheel restores the concave face.

One tip with bowl gouges is to use a secondary bevel as shown in the images below. Hopefully you can see the concave faces in the Tormek shot (with Australian Heligrind Jig) and the third shot (Thompson tools).

395593395594395595

ps. Turners like Eli Aviserra promote a convex face on skew chisels, others prefer a flat face. I prefer the slight concave face off a 250mm wheel. It is practical for light honing as it only requires minimal removal of material on the outer edges of the facet / face and not from across the whole face as it would for a flat ground face.

I cant remember the original source of the first photo, not mine though?

hughie
28th September 2016, 07:33 AM
Its probably horses for courses. I have the original wheels on my grinder grey 8" 80 and 140 grits , I follow up with a diamond hone just about every time. The only reason I persist with the grey is they were in great condition and they grind HSS just fine, might generate a bit more heat than the others but HSS can handle it fine.

woodtryer
28th September 2016, 11:05 AM
Ok, got it. Thanks so much for that detailed explanation. The honing has been the one thing I was never really sure about but you have helped me heaps. Thanks again, Peter