Looking for a hand

[Skew's_Girl]

I was wondering if anyone going to the Blue Mountains GTG would have a steady Andy and I could borrow for a project.

We were given this mistletoe-gum knot a while back, (I'm so sorry I can't remember from whom). Andy was able to turn it this far and we set it aside to finish drying. To be honest we fully expected it to fall apart, but it hasn't. So now I'm dying to see it finished! Except, we can't find Andy's steady. No amount of delving into the shed down stairs has revealed it so it's either gone for a walk between Melb and Sydney, or it's still down in Melb somewhere. ... and the local kids hold onto their skateboards/scooters/inline skates too well. :B

I don't think we would need it for long.

Thank you

[turnerted]

You don't really need a steady to finish this off .
I assume all you need to do is part off the tennon . Turn up a cone to fit the neck and mount it over your live center .Then mount between centers and part off as much of the tennon as you're game . Remove whats left with a hand saw or a hacksaw .Mount a jacobs chuck with a sanding cone on the headstock and just sand through the grits just holding the vase by hand .
Ted

[Skew's_Girl]

Sorry, I probably should say Andy => Skew_ChiDAMN!! also from here on the forum.
I forget to call him by his login instead of his name.

[Paul39]

Hi, Skew's Girl,

Wow! Nice piece. I agree with Turnerted's advice above. I have several disks that fit on my chuck with grades of sandpaper attached with double sided tape for finishing bottoms.

A belt sander also works well.

Those of us who have been here for a while and reading "adventures of Skew" know to whom you were referring.

[hughie]

I built a donut chuck for the very purpose

http://azwoodturners.org/pages/tips/DoughnutChuck.pdf

http://www.ptwoodturners.org/Tips%20and%20Handouts/Methods%20and%20Jigs%20for%20Reverse%20Turning%20Bowls.pdf

This will give you an idea

[woodPixel]

What is a sanding cone?

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Sneaky minx snuck this one in on me. :doh:

The problem isn't parting off, it's bringing the inside bottom down to size. The neck down to about an inch above the 'equator' is about 2-3mm thick, then it - and the bottom section - is still only roughed out to around 1" wall thickness. In the top-down pic you can see where I drilled it out close to where I want final depth.

I can bring most of the base down to desired thickness no problem, but my goose-neck keeps grabbing when I try undercutting into the equator area. Naturally, I want to finish that section before moving on to removing the material from inside the base.

As a result, I'd like a steady on the neck just to reduce the whoops factor. It's a beautiful piece of wood and I don't want to UFO it from just a moments clumsiness. :oo:

[joe greiner]

I'd second hughie about the donut chuck. It would be ideal for that situation - very robust. Use a stout faceplate for the base and put the donut about mid-height of the upper curve; the all-thread will be well out of the danger zone. Slit a piece of clear vinyl tubing in the donut to protect the surface.

For the bottom too, the donut chuck is the best for your proportions. The other methods (tape, Longworth, Cole, etc.) are too loose to trust - BTDT.

Cheers,
Joe

[turnerted]

woodPixel -A sanding cone is a cone shaped rubber pad with the hook part of velcro on the surface . Discs of velcro backed sandpaper may be then stuck on the surface . Commonly mounted in an electric drill and used to sand bowls . Available from most woodturners suppliers .

Ted

[hughie]

By sound of it your goose neck cutting point is sticking way out to go around the corner or way over the centre line of the goose neck bar. If this is the case, then yup its a disaster in the making, been there and done that a couple of times:U. What you need by the sound of it is a cutter you can restrict the cut ie Rolly Munro or a Pro-forme etc.
But failing that I sometimes have my goose neck below centre so its a negative cut. The goose neck wants to be as short as you can have it so if you do have a jam up it doesnt cartwheel into the other side or somewhere :o Then it gets real exciting :U. But by and large the trailing cut is slow but has very few surprises.

[Nubsnstubs]

Skewch, post #7 clarifies what help you need and why you want it. The steady rest would do it, but the donut chuck could possibly do it if you set up a recess on the face to accommodate the tenon, and put the donut over the neck to keep it from flying. That would probably be pretty sturdy.

That is a beautiful piece of wood, and I'd like to see it successfully completed................ Jerry

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

But failing that I sometimes have my goose neck below centre so its a negative cut. The goose neck wants to be as short as you can have it so if you do have a jam up it doesnt cartwheel into the other side or somewhere :o Then it gets real exciting :U. But by and large the trailing cut is slow but has very few surprises.

That's the approach I've been taking. You're right, it's a safer technique but for some reason with this piece I have developed a knee-jerk reaction of 'snatching' the tool back on a catch. Not a good move with a gooseneck.

After all this time you'd think I'd be immune to these things by now! :rolleyes:

Maybe I can convince SWMBO I need a deep hollowing rig to pull this one off safely? :innocent:

[Skew's_Girl]

Maybe I can convince SWMBO I need a deep hollowing rig to pull this one off safely? :innocent:

Maybe I can convince HWMO I need a counter-marche loom to stay out of his way http://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/happy/innocent.gif

[hughie]

Maybe I can convince HWMO I need a counter-marche loom to stay out of his way http://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/happy/innocent.gif

Nice

[Christos]

.....Maybe I can convince SWMBO I need a deep hollowing rig to pull this one off safely? :innocent:


Maybe I can convince HWMO I need a counter-marche loom to stay out of his way http://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/happy/innocent.gif


No you don't. :U

[woodPixel]

To MAKE one of those monstrosities? It would take 6 months non stop!

[Sawdust Maker]

I didn't see this before the GTG

My steady is about 1/2 finished
I'll raise it to the top of things to complete and when Andy is down this way in a week or so I'll send it back with him
how's that for a plan?

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

My steady is about 1/2 finished
I'll raise it to the top of things to complete and when Andy is down this way in a week or so I'll send it back with him
how's that for a plan?

That sounds perfect.

"I'll make a cake and won't drop it this time." :rolleyes:

[Sawdust Maker]

ok the steady is complete except for:

1 I haven't attached the bit of timber that fits between the ways as I'm assuming your lathe is probably different than mine
2 I've left the bolts for the wheels and the slidy bits a tad long. If they get in the way feel free to trim them down.

all going well it will probably be heading up to the mountains tomorrow

[Sawdust Maker]

Gees someone wants a piccy:doh:
will take one shortly and attach it here somewhere

[Sawdust Maker]

400895400894

[Paul39]

Sawdust,

Thank you. That is very nice.

I have gone so far as to buy a set of used inline skates at a junk store and get the wheels off. The project stalled at that point.

[Sawdust Maker]

Sawdust,

Thank you. That is very nice.

I have gone so far as to buy a set of used inline skates at a junk store and get the wheels off. The project stalled at that point.

I know what you mean. I'd estimate that the ring bit took well in excess of a year to make, and I've got skatebord wheels there that have to be over 5 years old