Nice little Moxon vice plans

[yowie]

Make It - Moxon Vise (http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-It-Moxon-Vise/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email)

[Dengue]

This looks a great vice to make. You can see the full video ( 9 min duration) here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFFCfJoQ6Jg

Can anyone please advise where I might get the 1" rod with the coarse thread, and most importantly, the circular handle that screws the vice tight?

[Acco]

Can anyone please advise where I might get the 1" rod with the coarse thread, and most importantly, the circular handle that screws the vice tight?

https://www.timbecon.com.au/clamps-vices/workbench-vices-accessories/moxon-vice-hardware-kit

[derekcohen]

Make It - Moxon Vise (http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-It-Moxon-Vise/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email)

Yowie, I will be blunt. That is a poor design. The aim of the video is to obtain viewers as the maker sells dovetail sawing guides. The design is a generic one, which is based on parts of BenchCrafted and my original design. He is making furniture and not a practical tool.

For example, the chop is the same height as the rear shelf. That is bad news when transferring marks as you will cut up the chop. I also like to have a little gap under the pin board at the junction of the tail board to allow light to show when parts are aligned.

Here is a link to my current design (which has since been slightly modified - the flip over rest has been cut back a smidgeon to let in more light) ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods.html

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods_html_4cce6a45.jpg

There are other articles on my website on earlier models.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[yowie]

Hi Derek, I haven't actually made it and happily defer to your position. I have been thinking about making one for a while and will follow your design when I do.

Cheers.

[Larysa]

Here is a link to my current design (which has since been slightly modified - the flip over rest has been cut back a smidgeon to let in more light) ...
Derek

Hi Derek,
Thanks for this link, I wandered around your page, and wow, there's so much great stuff there.
I loved reading about your renovation of 'Bob's Plane', I'm currently attempting a renovation of my grandfather's plane, so I think I'll write up what I'm doing for the forum.
I've yet to read through every page, but I will, over the next few weeks.
Thanks again,
L.
(PS: Sorry this was off-topic, I do want a moxon vise some day, which is why I had a look at this thread.. :) )

[Dengue]

Hi Derek, many thanks for sharing your Moxon vice design with the hinged board.
I am in the middle of making a mini bench (see attached) , but with a Moxon vice on the front, instead of the vice shown on the end. It will be in the shape of a box on its side, 300H x 700L x 250W, made of 19mm pine, with a spotted gum hardwood top extending 100mm over each end of the box.
This bench will also be used to cut the waste out of dovetail tails and pin boards so there will be dog holes for a holdfast.
I have purchased a couple of shoulder vice screws, with wooden handles, and will reverse the centre guide and fit it to the back board of the Moxon vice. So no need for the wooden threaded screws you use.
So, my question is, with this proposed min bench design, incorporating a Moxon style vice which is basically the same as shown on the initial link above on this thread, how do I solve the problem of knife cuts on the chop board of the vice. You have done this successfully with a hinged board on the rear of the vice.

Hoping you or others on this forum can come up with a brilliant solution :)

456918456919

[derekcohen]

Hi Dengy

There is a simple modification for a Moxon vise to prevent cutting up the chop when transferring tail-to-pin marks, if you do not want to use a flip-over rest to raise the work up ... simply lower the chop by 1/2" (that is, 1/2" below the mating vise back). The reason I chose not to do this is that the front of the work piece is left a 1/2" unsupported when one raises it for sawing. I like to keep the work as low down as possible for maximum support. Still, it will work.

The other method is to use David Barron's jig. You can see here that it does this automatically ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods_html_m43d28941.jpghttp://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods_html_m4daff2b.png

The issue I have with this jig is that it must register tail-pin boards from the front or side, since it is not possible to see light at the rear of their intersection. I realised this after I had used the nearly modded Moxon vise I posted. It is the reason why I cut back the front of the flip-over support by a 1/4" ... the pin-tail transfer needs to register at the rear, and this is easier to determine if you can see light. I like the side fence of David Barron's jig, which is why I use it a separate item/add-on square. The irony is that my current project has curved sides, and the square cannot help here :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Fuzzie]

I can't see why simply placing a board on the back jaw of a Moxon vice doesn't give you adequate clearance. Derek has specific heights built into his flip up vise ledge so it accurately matches his support beam arrangement. If you can live with keeping track of a loose plank as well as the loose matching support block, it doesn't have to be hinged to the vise.

I made my latest dovetailing vise from scraps of hardwood and a piece of 4x2 pine from a pallet. The screws are just lengths of M12 allthread with screwed on timber handles. They work quite adequately for holding strength, I don't think you really need tight tolerance acme square threads to build something like this.

I extended the depth of my vise's rear jaw with the 4x2 block to have a trailing surface that would give me enough surface area to perhaps use it with a router as a mortising jig for routing mortises in thinnish leg pieces. It won't work for mortising anything too deep due to the depth to the screw locations from the surface.

The piece of 4x2 gives enough depth to support a router base, but I'm now thinking it might be better to thin the section down a little to allow a bit more space for easily applying quick grip clamps as hold downs for the boards when transferring the pin/tail marks.

[Fuzzie]

I've scanned the pages in Wearing's book re buiding the Dovetailing Vice if anybody is interested.
457240 457242

[derekcohen]

I can't see why simply placing a board on the back jaw of a Moxon vice doesn't give you adequate clearance. Derek has specific heights built into his flip up vise ledge so it accurately matches his support beam arrangement. If you can live with keeping track of a loose plank as well as the loose matching support block, it doesn't have to be hinged to the vise.

Correct. When I built my first Moxon vise in 2011 (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MoxonDovetailVise.html), this is what I did ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MoxonDovetailVise_html_m61190190.jpg

Later I made a hinged (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/ModsfortheMoxon.html) flip over spacer so that it was less to keep track of ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/ModsfortheMoxon_html_452342f9.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek