rrich
27th November 2016, 07:03 AM
How I Sharpen Chisels
Is it the correct way? I'm sure that it is not. I'm sure that other methods work great but this is what works for me.
First flatten the back using the scary sharp method.
(Plate glass, wet or dry sandpaper glued to the glass, start with 100 grit and progress to 600 or 1200 grit.)
Use water stones to continue flattening the back from 800 to 6000.
Use a Tormek to put a hollow grind at a 25° to 30° bevel. The softer the steel the greater the angle.
Grade the wheel with the stone and finish the bevel.
Use water stones from 800 to 6000. Rock the heel of the bevel to the toe on the stone and about three, maybe four passes drawing the chisel heel toward you. As you progress up the grits, the wire edge from the previous grit will roll off. Using the water stones will give two shiny bands across the bevel. This is not a micro bevel. These bands show where the chisel was in contact with the water stone. When these two bands come into contact with each other, it is time to go back to the Tormek wheel.
Only as I'm using the chisel do I use the leather hone on the Tormek. As the chisel starts to lose its edge, I'll go to the hone wheel. This can be done probably 8 or 10 times. Then back to the water stones for a fresh edge.
Why flatten the back of a chisel?
This obtuse but if you follow, you will understand.
Go to your favorite adult beverage package or bottle shop. Ask for the corrugated shipping cardboard box that normally contains 12 bottles of the 750 ml size. Additional contents of the box at your discretion. Take a piece of this cardboard box and slice it on an angle across the grain or corrugations. Look at the edge along the slice. This is a large model of what the back of a chisel looks like from the factory. It all depends upon the final grit used in the manufacturing process. The finer the grit used on the back, the smaller or finer the scratch marks. It also shows why a chisel should be sharpened in the direction of the chisel and not across the chisel.
Is it the correct way? I'm sure that it is not. I'm sure that other methods work great but this is what works for me.
First flatten the back using the scary sharp method.
(Plate glass, wet or dry sandpaper glued to the glass, start with 100 grit and progress to 600 or 1200 grit.)
Use water stones to continue flattening the back from 800 to 6000.
Use a Tormek to put a hollow grind at a 25° to 30° bevel. The softer the steel the greater the angle.
Grade the wheel with the stone and finish the bevel.
Use water stones from 800 to 6000. Rock the heel of the bevel to the toe on the stone and about three, maybe four passes drawing the chisel heel toward you. As you progress up the grits, the wire edge from the previous grit will roll off. Using the water stones will give two shiny bands across the bevel. This is not a micro bevel. These bands show where the chisel was in contact with the water stone. When these two bands come into contact with each other, it is time to go back to the Tormek wheel.
Only as I'm using the chisel do I use the leather hone on the Tormek. As the chisel starts to lose its edge, I'll go to the hone wheel. This can be done probably 8 or 10 times. Then back to the water stones for a fresh edge.
Why flatten the back of a chisel?
This obtuse but if you follow, you will understand.
Go to your favorite adult beverage package or bottle shop. Ask for the corrugated shipping cardboard box that normally contains 12 bottles of the 750 ml size. Additional contents of the box at your discretion. Take a piece of this cardboard box and slice it on an angle across the grain or corrugations. Look at the edge along the slice. This is a large model of what the back of a chisel looks like from the factory. It all depends upon the final grit used in the manufacturing process. The finer the grit used on the back, the smaller or finer the scratch marks. It also shows why a chisel should be sharpened in the direction of the chisel and not across the chisel.