Hand finishing water-based poly.

[derekcohen]

The decision was made to use Hard Maple for the kitchen doors and drawer fronts because the wood was light in colour and the figure was gentle. With very little experience in working with this wood (imported from the USA), I decided to use a USA-made finish, since this appeared to be recommended as the best way to retain its light colour. That's where I ran into the first hurdle.


General Finishes water-based poly received the top rating a few years ago in a FWW comparison, however it is best sprayed, and I do not have spray equipment.


I looked into brushing on the finish. General Finishes recommend using a foam brush. However, all the reviews and videos I examined complained of brush marks and streaks in the finish, whether by the best brush or foam. This is partly due to water-based finishes drying rapidly. They set in minutes - sometimes seconds! - and there is no time for the finish to be self-levelling.


To date, my main finishes have been oils and shellac, which I have applied with a rag. I would have liked to have used shellac here, but it is just not durable enough in a kitchen, which will be wiped down frequently. Still, my experience is in wiping a finish, and so I tried this with the GF. It went on well, and it showed promise. The only fly in the ointment was the water-based finish raised the grain, and this would require that the finish was sanded again.


I decided that I would use a dewaxed, white shellac as a sealer prior to wiping on the poly. My choice here is Ubeaut White Shellac, which is concentrated. It was diluted 50-50 with alcohol (methylated spirits).


For rags I used microfibre, and grey Scotch mesh smoothed the surface between coats.


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Kitchen/finish/1a_zpsbbtauiui.jpg


This is a door pre-finish ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Kitchen/finish/2a_zpsf5o44gya.jpg


Pulled apart. Every piece is carefully marked for mating and orientation ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Kitchen/finish/3a_zpsnx5frhad.jpg


Each surface was given two coats of shellac (with the grain) ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Kitchen/finish/4a_zpsuko23osm.jpg


.. followed with a rub down (with the grain) ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Kitchen/finish/5a_zpszrz99jqw.jpg


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Kitchen/finish/6a_zpsu5vps8qo.jpg


The shellac does colour the wood, but very slightly - far less than expected from its darkish amber. It dries quickly, and within minutes of each coat one can move onto the next.


Now it is the turn of the poly. It is white in the decanted bottle. but goes on clear.


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Kitchen/finish/8a_zpsufv6cnhg.jpg


The finish is a little sticky, and it is drying fast. I apply it as if it were polish and I was polishing the surface of the wood. You can do so in small circles, but you must finish (as it dries) by only rubbing along the grain. Using raking light, look for any streaks. Simply rub them out.


Once dry, use the grey mesh to rub the surface with the grain. It not only removes any streaks, which it blends all together, but it seems to raise a shine.


It takes at least 2-3 layers before the shine becomes apparent. The poly slowly builds in thickness. Polishing it as done here only adds a thin coating on each occasion. Then suddenly it is there ..


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Kitchen/finish/9a_zpsuhy7etqr.jpg


I stop after 5 coats.


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Kitchen/finish/10a_zps25mpvtmk.jpg


Now it is time to glue the frame together. The panel floats inside the frame ...


A note on the glues: I used Titebond lll for the bookmatched panel as it is water resistant. I used Titebond Liquid Hide Glue on the Domino mortice-and-tenon joints as this is reversible and unlikely to affect the finish.


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Kitchen/finish/11a_zpsgukmovfv.jpg


How much colour change did the finishes add? Here is the completed panel along with a planed but otherwise unfinished board ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Kitchen/finish/12a_zpsj9nqjpaw.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Robson Valley]

Nice. I think you will be pleased with the whole effort.
Maple is about as pretty a wood as we get in North America, short of the gloomy walnuts.
I can't imagine a kitchen done in walnut but some do (or dark-stained Ash/Fraxinus sp.)
Paper birch (Betula papyrifera) might have come up similar if you could be the least bit picky about the source.

I don't believe it's possible to finish dry wood without darkening it as the finish replaces the surface wood cell air pockets.
You sure managed to keep it as light as possible. Great recipe for success.

[Bob38S]

Nice one Derek.

Like the idea of using a microfibre cloth, any lint issues or were they washed first. Have used these cloths inside the car and on glass mirrors but the odd one has lint issues which disappear if vigorously shaken or rinsed.

[derekcohen]

Thanks Bob.

I used the microfibre cloth straight out of the bag. No problems.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Bob38S]

Thanks for that. I'll give it a go.

[ian]

How much colour change did the finishes add? Here is the completed panel along with a planed but otherwise unfinished board ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Kitchen/finish/12a_zpsj9nqjpaw.jpg

Here is another colour comparison from a project I'm working on. Also hard maple
the larger piece has two coats of polymerised tung oil, the smaller piece is sanded to 220.