Which Wax you ask

[smeds]

Hi all, i have seen all types of blanks for sale some waxed and some not, can someone please tell me what type of wax is used, i have a nice trailer full of jacaranda and after it is split and cut round i have been told to wax the outer edge to stop any cracks.

[Cliff Rogers]

It's called Log End Sealer.

You can get it through petroleum distributors.

[Jim Carroll]

Parafan Wax

[rsser]

I've generally had better results with parafin wax - aka candle wax, available in blocks from good hardwares - though it's more bother, having to be carefully heated (it's highly flammable).

An old electric frypan can be used, or for larger pieces a baking tray on top of an electric grill.

[Kev Y.]

find a bee keeper in your local area and get some off of him, it works just as well as everything mentioned above

[DavidG]

Old electric wok is good as it has a round bottom.

[Mulgabill]

As for the wax, I purchase in the past Fowlers perserving wax that they use to seal preserved fruits etc in jars. Its parafin wax. I found it available at my local Home Hardware. At around $3 for a small container it is an expensive way of purchasing it.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I prefer paraffin wax for use at home, but when on-site "rescuing" timber from a felled tree I take along a small jerrycan of end sealer. I'm a great believer that sealing ASAP is more important than what sealant is used.

I've found that a PVA glue watered down to 2:1 is a good substitute in "emergencies." I can always seal with paraffin once I get home, but I've found I rarely do... I haven't had the need. Sealed is sealed, provided it reduces the drying rate enough.

[Wood Butcher]

Beeswax does work fairly well although it can go on thick if you do not have the wax hot enough. If you want some PM me as we buy and sell the stuff at work.

Rowan

[rsser]

Hey Russell, yep, those small containers are a killer. Some h/w's sell it by the kilo; much cheaper.

It's horses for courses, as always. Nutwoods and fruitwoods, I've found paint-on sealers a lottery; I like the thickness and flexibility of paraffin for these, and for large lumps of exotics like plane and birch.

[HiString]

Candle wax is frequently stocked by craft stores, usually in a "flake" form.

The safest way to melt it is to get a large saucepan or boiler to heat water in and put the wax in a container ( I used to use a large, empty dog food can) which is placed in the water.........it is the same principle as using a "glue pot" when working with joiners' pearl.

:cool:

[rond]

I've generally had better results with parafin wax - aka candle wax, available in blocks from good hardwares - though it's more bother, having to be carefully heated (it's highly flammable).

An old electric frypan can be used, or for larger pieces a baking tray on top of an electric grill.

A mate of mine dropped in to me two old 'Sunbeam frying pans'
I will give them a try

[rsser]

Way to go.

Get the stuff hot but not smoking.

Don't rush the pieces - they need to come out of the hot wax clear, not cloudy. Each new piece pulls down the temp of the wax.

You want immersion of 25 - 35 mm.

From time to time strain the wax while hot to reduce the sawdust in there.

[JackoH]

Beeswax on it's own is too brittle when set and will crack and flake off the end of the log. Mix it about three parts parafin wax to one part beeswax. Add some cheap vegie cooking oil to help make it all nice and flexible when set and heat in an electric frypan. Follow the above instructions from Ern.

[soundman]

The most economical way to buy parifin wax is from the petrolium companies direct. I was on a course with a girl who made candles for a craft stall she reconed that was the go. Make shure you don't get food grade because that is much more expensive. Ask 'em for ordinary working man's parifin wax, it will come in a slab about the size of a "slab" :D
Now if you want to colour it just throw in some crayons. Why you would want to do that I'm not sure? Colour code for date perhaps?
cheers

[Captain Chaos]

The safest way to melt it is to get a large saucepan or boiler to heat water in and put the wax in a container ( I used to use a large, empty dog food can) which is placed in the water.........it is the same principle as using a "glue pot" when working with joiners' pearl.

:cool:
What HiString said!!
There is a member of my woodturning club presently recovering from very serious burns to the hand & arm caused by wax being heated in a frying pan. The wax caught alight in the pan & when the person attempted to remove the pan from the heat source the handle broke, splashing burning molten wax over his hand & lower arm.
Please be careful.
Regards,
Barry.

[rond]

there is an article in the October issue of the 'Woodgroup.S.A Newsletter'
from Jim Fawcett on not what to do when using Sealing Wax and Electric Frypans. Ending in 16 days of the 'Burns Unit' of the Royal Adelaide Hospital.
I will e-mail the Editor [George Pastuch] to contact Jim and see if this article could be used in this Forum as I feel that can be a warning to us all.
Those in Woodgroup S.A who have read this article would tend to agree with me I hope

:) safety is the best policy

Rond