Where to buy Anchorseal (or similar) to seal log ends

[vivstar33]

Hi all

I recently got my hands on some sheoak logs. I will be getting them slabbed soon but in the meantime I am looking for a way to minimise splitting as it dries.
Americans talk about Anchorseal, but I haven't found it here. What is the local equivalent?

Cheers

[FenceFurniture]

Don't know if the Perth store will have it, but:
https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/coatings/end-sealer-2-litre-endsealer

Caltex also make a product called End Seal or End Check which seems to be the choice of pro-millers here, but I think you may have to buy 20 litres.

Have a read of this thread:
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f14/commercial-diy-grain-sealers-green-wood-193857

and:
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f132/sealant-fresh-cut-logs-176164

[Luke Maddux]

I don't know where to find the product you want, and I've never actually used anything that was a dedicated wood sealant, but, ultimately, you're just holding in the moisture, and there are many products that will do that. A couple of liberal coats of enamel paint work just fine and are often times just laying around in a shed/basement. I've also just used PVA wood glue as a temporary solution.

If you'd prefer a dedicated product I totally understand, but you can probably save a bit of coin by using something a bit less specialized and get similar results. PVA glue and paint are, of course, available at Bunnings, Masters, Mitre 10, etc. (not that you didn't already know that).

Cheers,
Luke

[BobL]

Don't know if the Perth store will have it, but:
https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/coatings/end-sealer-2-litre-endsealer
Caltex also make a product called End Seal or End Check which seems to be the choice of pro-millers here, but I think you may have to buy 20 litres.

I was told I would have to purchase a 200L drum, plus there was a HUGE freight charge to get it delivered from the east coast.

If you can't get hold of some old latex paint try a paint disposal centre. The Ranford Rd Tip has plenty.

[FenceFurniture]

Masters :no: A minor point, but all closed last December Luke. Announced in August, and you prolly missed it in your rush to get back to the States. :; The store closest to me was only open for 10 months!

Yeah, I've only ever used paint which has worked fairly well, and certainly much better than nothing. Someone pointed out that it doesn't expand and contract with the timber as well as the dedicated sealers do.

[Luke Maddux]

:no: A minor point, but all closed last December Luke.

Come to think of it I remember seeing the thread but I don't think I ever clicked on it because, as you say, I was moving and I guess it was less relevant for me.

That's a shame... I actually never went into a Masters. Not sure where one was in Brisbane.

[BobL]

Someone pointed out that it doesn't expand and contract with the timber as well as the dedicated sealers do.

It also doesn't pick up grit as easily. The place where I used to mill logs was next to a limestone block cutting place and the small amount of endcheck I used picked up a lot of limestone dust and general grit moving the logs around. Not the best thing for chainsaws to cut through.

[cava]

I have an unopened 20 ltr drum of end sealer (I forgot the name), but tend to use an oil based paint, as it is easier. :rolleyes:

[KBs PensNmore]

I managed to get a 20 litre drum of it from the local Caltex distributor, mind you it took about 4 months to get here.
It's called Log End Sealant, product cod 1101 and has a shelf life of 12 months.
APPLICATIONS
• Control of moisture loss from the ends of the timber.
• Timber Sealer should be applied at approximately
one litre per 4 m2
, i.e. comparable to one heavy
coat of paint. However it may not be painted over
after application. Timber Sealer is stable for a
shelf life of 12 months. However, packages should
not be exposed to temperatures near or below
freezing point, as this may cause the emulsion to
break, leading to separation of the wax and water
components. Roll container before using contents.
https://www.caltex.com.au/find-a-caltex should locate a Caltex store near you.

[Stewie D]

I would have thought that either acrylic or enamel house paint applied in a couple of thick coats would work just as well seeing as they all have a fair bit of elasticity built into them these days to allow for expansion/contraction of the substrates. We all have a few litres of old superceded colours stored away in the shed.

Stewie

[vivstar33]

You guys are awesome!

Thanks for all the tips. I had a feeling I might be able to get the Caltex or Mobil version of log sealer, but was concerned about the quantity required to order. I recently saw that Matthew Cremona commented it has taken him 4 years to empty what appeared to be a ~20L bucket. And that guy does a LOT of milling...

Will definitely keep the Ranford Rd tip in mind for paints, hadn't thought of that.

I am taking some logs to get milled next weekend and the bloke said he could seal the ends for me there, so that solves part of my problem. Will probably go the dodgy paint route for other small pieces until the stars align and I can buy the real deal in a suitable quantity.

Thanks heaps folks.

[adamw]

Timbecon sell a product for this in 1L, 2L, or 20L
https://www.timbecon.com.au/finishing/fillers-sealers/end-check-liquid-wax

[Robson Valley]

Standard practice here is to paint log ends with whatever left over acrylic paint (sticks to damp surfaces) you can find.
The concept is to slow down the rate of water loss from the cut ends. Peeling off the bark makes it more even as well.
Plus less yummy new wood for the bugs to eat when it dries.

Outdoors, under cover and not cooked in a hot shed, we plan on drying 1" thickness per year.
So a 3 inch slab ought to settle down to a Equilibrium Moisture Content of 12 - 14% in 2+ years.
Probably matters less for wood carving than it does for the dimensional stability in furniture.