Finish for Kitchen Cupboards

[boxers]

Hi All (again)
After considering the advice given to me about the wood to use to make the cupboards i have decided to use Tas Oak.
My next bit of advice requested is what finish would you experts suggest. I was thinking of satin polyurethane. Being a kitchen I want it pretty durable. The other option I am pondering is Danish Oil.

Any comments or other suggestions.

Boxer

[fletty]

For a kitchen my vote is for satin poly, definitely not danish oil. The only downer is that poly is a film laying on the surface and hence doesn't bring out the grain and nature of the timber ... whch was the idea of using timber in the first place. So, try this on scrap piece first,
sanding sealer (penetrates and makes the timber grain stand out)
sand smooth
possibly another sanding sealer
sand again (sorry about this)
clean off the powder sanded off the sealer (vacuum cleaner/tack cloth/ rag damp with mineral turps ....)
Poly
sand
poly
If you compare it to a piece that has poly only you'll see it's worth the effort,
Fletty

[savage]

For a kitchen my vote is for satin poly, definitely not danish oil. The only downer is that poly is a film laying on the surface and hence doesn't bring out the grain and nature of the timber ... whch was the idea of using timber in the first place. So, try this on scrap piece first,
sanding sealer (penetrates and makes the timber grain stand out)
sand smooth
possibly another sanding sealer
sand again (sorry about this)
clean off the powder sanded off the sealer (vacuum cleaner/tack cloth/ rag damp with mineral turps ....)
Poly
sand
poly
If you compare it to a piece that has poly only you'll see it's worth the effort,
Fletty

G'Day Fletty,
when I am sanding, and then coating, as you do in woodwork....I wipe down with metho instead of turps, as I have found that it doesn't bother the finishing coats and evapourates rapidly, I put the turps in the finish (for turps based finishes) for the first coat so it is absorbed more readily by the timber. The metho works with water based finishes also, and wiping off excess stain (especially when staining Pine), what are your thought's on this method?
savage.:)

[fletty]

Hi Savage, I'm just 'over the hill' from you.
Agree with your metho comment but I've found that the rag, damp with min turps, picks up the sanding dust better, maybe because it is stickier because it's disolving the finish!
My favourite finish is similar to your other suggestion. I thin (usually) satin Estapol 50:50 for the first coat and it soaks into the timber and highlights the grain. Subsequent coats are 'full strength' Estapol with a light sanding in between.
In spite of all of this ... I still hate finishing!
Fletty

[lesmeyer]

Boxer,

I am finishing my Kitchen cupboards with Rustins danish oil. I know it is not the hardest wearing finish, but it is water proof and is reasonably tough. With no small kids in the house, it should hold up. My reasons for going with this finish is ease of application (do not need a dust free environment) and the ease of repairing any damage that may occur. It will require some maintenance every few years (wipe down with a soapy rag and apply a thin layer of danish). Some of the finish that is now 1 year old is still in excellent condition. NO change of colour.
Regards
Les

[lesmeyer]

Boxer,

just a quick piccy to show some danish oil finish on Euro beech.

The pot drawers has 5 layers of finish and 2 of the panels have just had the first layer applied.

[Termite]

I'm with lesmeyer, Rustins Danish Oil. The doors don't have to be hard wearing and for ease of application, repairability, and finish you won't beat it.

[boxers]

Thanks for advice guys. Like always more than one way to skin a cat.
Lesmeyer the photos look great
Boxers