Rose Sheoak Pens

[dai sensei]

I scored some Rose Sheoak from my neighbour (see http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=21812) and turned some pens from blanks made across the grain rather than along the grain.

IMHO the lace figure grain looks better this way, though I have cut a lot of blanks both ways, and I love the deep red/brown colour.

Cheers

[bdar]

Nice pens Neil, are you using GPW kits? Nice colour in the wood and grain pattern. I've turned Flame Sheoak and WA Lace Sheoak, how does the Rose Sheoak compare in hardness and finishing. With that grain pattern it would look good on an Americana kit. Great effort

Cheers

Darren :)

[RufflyRustic]

Hi Neil,

love that Sheoak! The pens look great - congrats on a great score!

cheers
RufflyRustic

[dai sensei]

Nice pens Neil, are you using GPW kits? Nice colour in the wood and grain pattern. I've turned Flame Sheoak and WA Lace Sheoak, how does the Rose Sheoak compare in hardness and finishing.

Yes GPW kits - slimeline and the fatter center ring version.

I find all the sheoaks similar to finish, hard and pollish well.

Cheers

[bdar]

Hi Neil,

Will have to check with a mate who works for Ergon trimming trees he told me today that he has a trailer load or two for me, see if he has cut any Rose Sheoak. The larger slimline I have just started to use, had a couple of BT401 caps left and used them instead of the ones with the kit. Will be able to do so with this one.

Cheers

Darren

[dai sensei]

Will have to check with a mate who works for Ergon trimming trees he told me today that he has a trailer load or two for me..

A trailer load sounds great :) - looks like your on a winner:D . You'd want to make more than just pens with a trailer load though;)

Forgot to mention - making the pens across the grain looks great, but you have to be very carefull as it's easy to tear the timber off the insert. Sharp chisels and high speeds are required.

Good luck.

[bdar]

Hi Neil,

I know what you mean, I have cut some Red Cedar at 45 Degrees, snaps just like balsa wood, have you thought of stabilising it first? I have a plan for a stabilisation set up using a brake bleeding kit to draw a vacuum and sucking in what ever you use to stabilise the wood with. Some use poly eurathane, epoxy resin and the latest some are disolving plexiglass in acetone. I have it somewhere in a folder in my room, let me know if your interested and I will get acopy to you. Using the same vacuum and using U-Beaut's dye should be able to dye some plain timbers as well.

Cheers

Darren

[darley]

Sorry Niel but your bottom barrel on both pens are uneven, the wood is nice but you need more practice, What kind of finish did you use? I don't want to be rude to you, but I wish to know how to post a picture to show you, I may ask the forum

Thanks

Serge

[dai sensei]

Sorry Niel but your bottom barrel on both pens are uneven, the wood is nice but you need more practice, What kind of finish did you use? I don't want to be rude to you, but I wish to know how to post a picture to show you, I may ask the forum

Thanks

Serge

Yes, you are right, the barrels are not quite right:o . Not just uneven, but they do not match the centre ring or tips either:mad:. Mind you my fat pens do have a taper at the tip though. I was in a hurry to see what the colour was like, they were also still a bit green.

Do a search on how to post pics, there are a heap of threads on it. I use Photoshop CS to get mine the right size.

I am making quite a few more from scraps, cut along the grain so the tear out shouldn't be such a big problem. I'll posts some pics when they are finished - with the barrels right:rolleyes: .

Cheers

[dai sensei]

Hi Neil,

I know what you mean, I have cut some Red Cedar at 45 Degrees, snaps just like balsa wood, have you thought of stabilising it first? I have a plan for a stabilisation set up using a brake bleeding kit to draw a vacuum and sucking in what ever you use to stabilise the wood with. Some use poly eurathane, epoxy resin and the latest some are disolving plexiglass in acetone. I have it somewhere in a folder in my room, let me know if your interested and I will get acopy to you. Using the same vacuum and using U-Beaut's dye should be able to dye some plain timbers as well.

Cheers

Darren

Not sure about sheoak, the grain is very dense, but the idea might work. I usually don't worry about it though because I make my own blanks these days. If I brake a few, I just turn them down to the sleeve and start again.

Cheers

[rsser]

Nice cross-grain work Neil.

Only time I tried it the timber disintegrated. Figured more care with the gluing was needed. But maybe it was using the roughing gouge ;-}

[dai sensei]

I knocked up a few more pens today, this time the blanks were with the grain. Beautiful red to this sheoak. The photo doesn't show the shine that well, but does show the colour.

My guide sleeve for my fat pens must be worn as the are getting thinner and don't match the centre ring :mad: - time to make a new one.

[Tasman]

Ever tried myrtle burl it a is very nice timber and colour.............i have some blanks if any one is interested..........

Reguards Tasman

[darley]

Ever tried myrtle burl it a is very nice timber and colour.............i have some blanks if any one is interested..........

Reguards Tasman
Hi Tasman what do you want for it and what size are they cut?

Darley

[Tasman]

Hi Tasman what do you want for it and what size are they cut?

Darley

They are cut 25mm and 19mm square and some 120mm long to 250 mm long so i guess $3 per pen length for both sizes....these have just been cut so will need drying...i may have some dry,will have to look through the shed to see what is left........

Reguards Tasman