Router plate - machining - nsw

[Lyle]

I am trying to make a router plate to attatch to my sawtable.
It'll be either laser cut or CNC. I am not sure if the laser cut will give me the smooth edge finish.
Material - 13mm mild steel plate.
Dimensions 685 x 375 mm.
Hole cut out in middle 299 x 235 mm.

Not knowing how the plate will be after these cuts, I am presuming that it'll need a light machining 'skim' of the top surface.

Anyone know of a company near Medowie/Newcastle that could do the job at a not too nose bleedingly high cost???

Thanks in advance.
Lyle.

[hurcorh]

No reason it couldn't be 10mm good quality aluminium I don't think. That is what the Incra router plates are. Even though they aren't as big as what you are going for could just do a bit of aluminium extrusion underneath as re-enforcement as this would keep weight down substantially. Water jet will give an excellent finish too. Plus wouldn't have to worry about rust if using ally. Post a photo or two when you get something built i'd be interested in seeing it. I have a 32mm thick MDF top with a smooth melamine type finish on top then an incra router plate recessed in. No sagging at all with a Triton TRA-001 hanging off of it.

[derekcohen]

I am trying to make a router plate to attatch to my sawtable.
It'll be either laser cut or CNC. I am not sure if the laser cut will give me the smooth edge finish.
Material - 13mm mild steel plate.
Dimensions 685 x 375 mm.
Hole cut out in middle 299 x 235 mm.

Not knowing how the plate will be after these cuts, I am presuming that it'll need a light machining 'skim' of the top surface.

Anyone know of a company near Medowie/Newcastle that could do the job at a not too nose bleedingly high cost???

Thanks in advance.
Lyle.

Hi Lyle

I have to question the wisdom of making your own plate. I have done this in the distant past (probably about 25 years ago - and that was when plates were not freely available), and recognise the limitations. Specifically, there are variable sized inserts for the cutters available with ready made plates. This can be a big issue when it comes to safety and ease of working.

I also have a solid insert for when the router table is not in use, and this keeps the dust out of the router (mine is also built into the table saw)

https://s19.postimg.org/lq55h1b4z/image.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Lyle]

Thanks for the reply.
I probably confused everyone.
I want to make a table for my woodpeckers insert to which my Triton router is mounted.
I had thought about aluminum but which alloy would be best?
Too soft too brittle. .. I have no knowledge of which ali alloy to use. So I thought mild steel.
But yes weight is a consideration.
Also rust too now as well. Good idea for using ali.
The woodpeckers plate with Triton weighs 7.5 Kgs.
So I'd want the table to be rigid and not slump.
There will be a angle iron support under the outside perimeter and also the cut-out for the woodpeckers plate too.
That is the plan so far.
Lyle

[aldav]

Lyle, I'd be looking for an offcut of a laminated kitchen benchtop. It sounds like there will be ample support for it and you'll find it a hell of a lot easier to machine and maintain. Try some of the kitchen manufacturers in your area. If you tell them what you're after it for there's bound to be some who are all too ready to help.

[Lyle]

Thanks for the reply.
I already have done that for my Triton 2000.
But I now have a Harvey sawtable and want to have it on that.
Cannot afford the Harvey routertable extension. And the rectangular shape required for the table looks to be bound to be flexible especially given the cut-out. Even with supports underneath.
I am still in the design planning thinking and listening to advice stages.
Hopefully getting a quote and advice from a metal supplier Monday.
Lyle

[derekcohen]

Lyle, I agree - a kitchen laminate is best. I could not find an offcut, and so went with two layers of 3/4" melamine-covered chipboard (glued and screwed together). This is very stiff and solid.

You may be able to make out the layers here:

https://s19.postimg.org/irdba6vmr/image.jpg

https://s19.postimg.org/9ryzpei03/image.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Lyle]

Thanks Derek that looks great.
More ideas.
What are the dimensions of your router table please.
That'll give me an idea of how I could fit mine.
I like the insert guide tracks.
More grist for the brain mill
Lyle
PS.
Can you tell me or photo of how you attached it to the table.

[Chris Parks]

Aluminium is ideal, way better than a thick top made from MDF etc but that is only my opinion. The single concern I have is preventing the black oxidation from staining the timber, your hands etc as it could become a problem. I suggest it would have to be hard anodised after machining to prevent this and IIRC Bushmiller was going to do a similar thing. There is an alternative and I think it would be way cheaper than buying a lift and a router but possibly not if the router serves double duty as a hand held unit and that is use a CNC spindle and make a side lift for it. They can be had for about $450 which is cheaper than buying a router and a lift and doing it that way the top does not have to support any weight at all so can be whatever it takes to suit your use. This has been discussed here before and some have done it as well. The motor is much quieter and the collets much better than a plunge router.