Dengue 7th February 2018, 10:38 AM I need to make some inlay stringing from a 300mm long Silver Ash board. The stringing is to be 2 x 2 mm, and needs to have sharp edges.
Can anyone please suggest a neat way to make this stringing , so that there is minimal waste, and can be done safely on a tablesaw or bandsaw?
aldav 7th February 2018, 12:42 PM Have a look at the video attached to this page - Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware (http://www.rockler.com/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig)
You don't need to buy the guide it's pretty easy to make one. There is an even better video I've seen, but I can't find it, you might with a bit of a search.
Found it - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvxKrXYXc0g
woodPixel 7th February 2018, 01:23 PM Make a little block with a Stanley knife blade.
https://goo.gl/images/tw7ijH
I modified a marking guage so it can be adjusted :). Blade is attached to the end.
With this you can cut 100 strips in 3 minutes. Zero waste.
Edit: you'll need to cut the board into 2mm veneers first on the BS, but that's easy... But do it in strips off the side. If you have a 25mm board, you'll get long lengths of 25mm wide veneers... Then slice with the little slicer. Easy peasy.
ian 7th February 2018, 05:26 PM I need to make some inlay stringing from a 300mm long Silver Ash board. The stringing is to be 2 x 2 mm, and needs to have sharp edges.
Can anyone please suggest a neat way to make this stringing , so that there is minimal waste, and can be done safely on a tablesaw or bandsaw?you should be able to cut a 2.1 mm square section from the edge of a wider board provided your table saw doesn't wobble and your fence is square and straight. (wastage though will be something fierce -- like around 60%.)
slitting a 2.1 mm wide piece from a 2.1 mm thick sawn veneer might be less wasteful, but you need to be able to thickness the sawn veneer.
If you don't own an old combination plane with a slitting cutter, you can use the blade on a marking gauge, or splurge on a specialist slitting cutter from Lie Nielsen https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/tools-for-inlay/tools-for-inlay-latta-slicing-gauge-?node=4180
Once you have the stringing, ideally you would thickness it with a thickness gauge like this one https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/tools-for-inlay/tools-for-inlay-latta-thicknessing-gauge-?node=4180
Of course, it helps heaps to use straight grained material.
BTW
how will you be cutting the slots for the stringing?
Arron 7th February 2018, 08:49 PM I know you said tablesaw or bandsaw so maybe this won’t help much but I used to cut on bandsaw to near enough, then feed 20 or so at once, pressed tightly together, through a drum sander sneaking it down to size.
Worked fine for 3mm, never tried 2mm.
Dengue 7th February 2018, 09:46 PM Thanks Arron, that is exactly what I did for my last lot of 3mm ebony stringing, went well. Thought there might be a better way, hence this post
I like the way this guy did it here (http://woodtreks.com/making-and-applying-decorative-string-inlay-woodworking/477/), with a jig not unlike the one above by Woodpixel, but using a marking gauge
Dengue 7th February 2018, 09:49 PM But do it in strips off the side. If you have a 25mm board, you'll get long lengths of 25mm wide veneers... Then slice with the little slicer. Easy peasy.
Woodpixel, why do it this way? I am sure you have a valid reason. Why not cut a 2mm thick wide piece off the face of the board and slice it up, rather than off the edge as you suggested?
ian 8th February 2018, 04:34 AM Woodpixel, why do it this way? I am sure you have a valid reason. Why not cut a 2mm thick wide piece off the face of the board and slice it up, rather than off the edge as you suggested?one reason that I can see is a 25 mm thick board is still 25 mm thick after cutting a slice off the side.
A slice off the face will leave you with a thinner, potentially unusable board.
woodPixel 8th February 2018, 10:09 AM Woodpixel, why do it this way? I am sure you have a valid reason. Why not cut a 2mm thick wide piece off the face of the board and slice it up, rather than off the edge as you suggested?
It's easier!
I was thinking that if your board is 200mm wide, then you are going to get a LOT of stringing off that one slice. If you cut a 3mm strip off the side (sand it to 2mm), you get a 25mm wide piece that will be still easy to sand and give you 10 strips. You also get to keep that nice thick board.
If its a nice board with good figure, you wont see it in the stringing either.... so doing a full-face cut is wasteful. Keep those to make veneers. But, a side slice will carry the same colouration and match any veneers you happen off the same board.
When I do stringing, I've used commercial veneers. Ive just cut them to the desired width with a steel rule and scalpel. Two or three scores and it comes off. I've made a Stanley-blade-marking-gauge-slicer which works exceedingly well. There are ambitions to make a more block-like one that is adjustable. :)
My techniques are really basic. To improve, I've ordered some more books and videos off Larry Robinson (Robinson Custom Inlays (http://www.robinsoninlays.com/)) .... (His work is astounding!)... it's a skill that my soul has decided it needs to know! Seeing Geoff Hannah, Robinson and some other luthiers work, my boxes are so inadequate that I felt it was time to up-the-ante!
They don't need to be thick. 1mm is heaps. When I started I was paralysed by fear that I'd sand through, but that has not occured.
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