Waterfall table - how to cut. Track saw question

[qwertyu]

Without a panel saw, what is the best way to cut a waterfall edge? If the table is going to be 1x1m square with waterfalls on both sides (coffee table), will the Bosch plunge/track saw be adequate?

What is the stock blade like on that saw? Should one invest in a better blade? Any suggestions?

Does anyone have an opinion on Bosch vs Makita vs Dewalt plunge/track saws?

[FenceFurniture]

Bosch saws are made by Mafell. Mafell make THE best saws bar none (but probably the Bosch saws are down-specced somewhat). Makita make good saws too, but I can't comment on DW (prolly A-OK). If you get a Bosch then get a blue, not a green.

[jimfish]

I have the Bosch track saw and find the blade that came with the saw burns as you cut on a 45 through hardwood. I put a makita blade i think 20 tooth and it cuts much better. To get an accurate mitre you need to make sure the surface is perfectly flat and use the track clamps.

[qwertyu]

Thanks guys

Jimfish - do you trust it enough to do a perfect 45? Do you get much tear out with that blade?

[jimfish]

I haven’t been able to get a perfect mitre but with a little cleanup with a hand plane I’ve got pretty good results. A little tear out but once sanded it wasn’t noticeable. Perhaps the finer cut blade would be ok with a dead flat surface which is something I haven’t yet quite mastered yet.

[aldav]

You can always use a thin piece of MDF or similar on both sides of your stock to help with the tearout issues.

[Pat]

Using a dedicated crosscut blade helps as well. 60+tooth

EG the Bosch (https://www.totaltools.com.au/184-x-20mm-60t-tct-circular-saw-blade-wood-optiline) here

[qwertyu]

Thanks aldav for the advice.

Pat - that blade is too large for the saws I am looking at.

I am looking at this
GKT 55 GCE Professional , Plunge Saw | Bosch (http://www.bosch-professional.com/za/en/plunge-saw-gkt-55-gce-226567-0601675002.html)

or this
https://www.makita.com.au/products/power-tools/categories/cutting/circulars-plunge-cut-saws/sp6000j-165mm-7-plunge-cut-circular-saw#product-specifications

Both have 165mm blades with 20mm arbor. Im not sure what the stock kerf is.

The best blade seems to be this (48T):
Freud Tools | 160mm Thin Kerf Ultimate Plywood & Melamine Blade (http://www.freudtools.com/index.php/products/product/LU79R006M20)

But it is 5mm smaller (at 160mm). I think that messes up the depth settings of the saws. I also dont seem to find it available in Aust. Its got a hi ATB angle and low hook angle which from what I understand creates a really clean cut?

Other ones include (just for the sake of future reference if anyone searches this in the future):
Diablo 40T (consumer brand of frued AFAIK)
https://www.bunnings.com.au/diablo-165mm-6-5-40-teeth-fine-finish-cordless-circular-saw-blade_p6370899

Irwin 40T (doesnt say if its ATB or not)
https://www.bunnings.com.au/irwin-weldtec-165mm-40t-construction-circular-saw-blade_p6320800

Makita 40T (also doesnt say what grind)
https://www.totaltools.com.au/power-tool-accessories/blades/circular-saw-blades/74809-makita-tct-saw-blade-165mm-x-20-x-40t-b15089

Detroit 40T (never heard of this brand dont know if good)
https://www.totaltools.com.au/power-tool-accessories/saw-blades/circular-saw-blades/113854-detroit-wood-cutting-saw-blade-165mm-40-teeth-20mm-bore-dcss16540

[Gabriel]

Is this just for a 1 off job?
What part of Melbourne are you in?
If it is a one off you could probably steal my festool saw + track for a weekend
I have waterfalled (if that's even a word) 45mm thick timber with it. Had to finish the cut with a hand saw and light clean up with a hand plane - I guess what I'm saying is what thickness is your material?

[qwertyu]

Thanks for the offer Gabriel! It wont be one off I wanna learn and do this for fun so willing to invest in a proper track saw :)

Do you use the festool blade? Is it also 165mm with 20mm arbor? How many teeth?

Do you post your work on social media? Would love to see :)

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Just to confuse issues further, how well any particular saw blade does will depend on other factors such as timber hardness, moisture content and resin content.

There was a period of time when there was a trend for... waterfall cabinetry, I guess you'd call it. Same thing as for a table, but using 18mm thick slabs for a contiguous grain around the sides & top of cabinets.

I was using a Festool track saw with their stock blade for most cuts and for Red Cedar, PNG Rosewood and Merbau it worked perfectly well. Then we got an order for a set of Blue Gum cabinets...

The stock blade failed miserably, even though the cut was only around 1" depth (on an 18mm slab) as it'd either overheat and bow, causing curved cuts, if cutting too slowly or overheat and bow if cutting too quickly. We could not find a good compromise cutting rate, not even with a new, unused blade. (Don't tell my boss, but I literally ruined the first blade by trying. :-)

In desperation I switched to an equivalent Irwin blade (that we kept around for... 'dirtier' timbers) which, surprise, surprise, made short work of the job. Yay for Irwin!

Until I went back to cutting our normal timbers. For which the Festool blade did a far superior job. Both blades had the same geometry although I believe the Irwin was made of slightly thinner stock.

If your slab (and the corresponding cutting depth) is thicker I would imagine this behaviour would be even more noticable.

[Pat]

I run a 7" (184mm) Makita and use trued timber as guides. My latest is a Spotted Gum slab just awaiting a new Surface Planer bit, as I lent my original one to a mate . . . .

I have roughly flattened by hand planes but will ensure flatness by the router.
429579