Thicknesser and Jointer

[boxers]

I read with interest the various debates about thicknesser and Jointers. I am lost on the finer points. What does the jointer do that the thicknesser does not do? I thought the thicknesser planes the wide flat sides of wood and in addition it can bring the timber to a particular size. I thought the Jointer is used to bring the edges of the timber square and also plane the wide flat side. If this is so why can't we use the thicknesser for the wide sides and the Jointer for the thin edge and only get a 6 in jointer??

HHHHHHeeeeeellllllpppppppp

[Ianab]

The big difference is if you put a warped, bowed or cupped board (looks like a banana ) into a thickness planer... you will get a banana board out the other end. Both sides of the board will be parrallel and smooth, but it will still be a banana. A Jointer will make one face perfectly flat, but it wont make the 2 faces parrallel. So ideally you need both.
You can survive without a jointer (or just a smaller one) if you 1 - pick straight bits of wood or 2 - are willing to use hand planes, routers on rails, planer sleds, table saws, etc to get the initial smooth faces.

Cheers

Ian

[Lignum]

If you only have a 6" jointer and a 12" thicknesser and need to flatten wider boards, this is one of the best methods if seen. straight foward and simple. Its from FWW. http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt095.asp

[echnidna]

RE: Lignums link to FWW magazine video article
"Use your thickness planer in place of a jointer to flatten wide boards"
enables you to eliminate a jointer if you also own a sawbench for truing the edges.
This is inherently a far safer method of truing timber faces than using a jointer.

[Lignum]

I made up a small one just to see how it worked in the real world, and i was surprised at just how effective and safe it was. Next time i have some spare marine ply id love to make a good one for 2.4 boards. (But i still love my 8" Jet:D )

[Greolt]

I have both but if I had to give one up (and I wouldn't like to) it would be the Jointer.

Table saw will do a lot. You always have hand planes. Or jigs.

Greolt

[echnidna]

A bit of mdf will do just polyurethane the bottom of the sled and occaisionally wax it

[silentC]

The jointer is the perfect machine for putting a straight edge on a wavy bit of timber before ripping it. They're also great for planing the face of an uneven board before resawing or thicknessing. You can use them to bevel an edge. You can cut rebates on them. You can use them to relieve the bottom of a foot.

I work with a lot of rough sawn timber and logs. I use the bandsaw to rip a rough plank, then I use the jointer to true one edge and one face, then the thicknesser to dress both sides, then the tablesaw to rip to width, then finish the last edge with the jointer.

Yep, handy machine, that jointer. Wouldn't be without it. I want a bigger one though...

[Lignum]

If i had to give one up it wouldnt even be a contest, the thicknesser would be heading straight for the trading post.

[Ashore]

Lived without a jointer for a lot of years
Wouldn't be without one now , unless I could only have one and then it would be the thicknesser
You can get buy without a thicknesser and or a Jointer ,or for that matter a circular saw ( cut it all by hand ) , if you have the space and money and the power supply why would you , unless you are completely into the dark side.

Thicknessers and jointers just make life easier and save time

Today I have spent 2 hours tweeking, cleaning, oiling and setting up my Stanley 55 to make some picture frame moulding. But its not the same.
Could make something very close with my router, or buy pre made stuff
I'm not totally into the Dark side just with some things , espically when I have plenty of time




The trouble with life is there's no background music.


Russell

[Ianab]

Now if you want to joint / plane REALLY big boards...

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=17344

This top is 600 x 1200 x 38mm thick and was jointed / planed with a router mounted on my sawmill frame.
I have a kitchen table and breakfast bar in the shed that need machining up too.
A smaller version can be built with a ply jig to hold the router and some straight boards on either side of the board you are working.

Cheers

Ian

[TEEJAY]

Well mine's a combination thicknesser jointer, so if I went without one I would lose both :rolleyes: . Having made that useless contribution I would say I do like the jointer function as it quickly rips away all the furry wood then small amounts can be trimmed for a better finish etc. Of course I do get sniping with the jointer but not with the thicknesser.


Cheers

[TEEJAY]

Ian,

Impressed with your gadget. I propose making similar soon as I am getting timber with a chainsaw mill and want to refine the slabs.

My router set up will be smaller in frame as I will use drafting machine rails that will allow me to cover about 1m x 1.5m.

Now after this waffling what I am interested in is the 50mm bit you have - is it available where? I can't find anything like it in the CMT cattledog or Carbatec same. Your advice appreciated. Also any other tips or ideas. I see you have made the support box deep to remove flex/vibration?

Cheers

[Ianab]

Now after this waffling what I am interested in is the 50mm bit you have - is it available where?

I got the bit thru my local tool shop, although it wasn't cheap and they did have to order it in. I'm in NZ so I dont know who is a good source of that stuff in Aus.

Talking to others online it seems that if you can get one with a dished profile on the bottom it works even better, the lines between runs are not as pronounced.

The support sort of had to be that deep to keep the router bit below the level of the saw blade, but the wood frame / plywood sides construction is good and solid. The frame just clamps to the side of the saw carriage so I can use the mill's sideways adjust to move the router.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=8792


Cheers

Ian