Box Mitre Joints

[Eowyn]

I recently bought a book on small box making, where the boxes have mitred joins.

Can anyone suggest the most accurate way of making these types of joints using my Triton (Triton 2000 workcentre with the adjustable bevel guide, Router and table)

I've only used the bevel guide thing once on the Triton, and it wasn't particularly successful (joins were not 90deg) - I later realised that the table during the cross-cut was not very square, which contibuted to the problem.

I think my choices are the bevel guide in table-saw mode with a jig to hold my workpiece, or buy a router bit that can do the 45deg (to suit 19mm timber).

Somewhere, someone mentioned a lock-mitre join. Is this what I think it is, and is it suitable for box making?

Can the bevel jig do the accuracy required?

Regards
Sandra

[George]

I have had some success doing 45 degree bevels with the Triton in cross-cut mode and the saw blade angled. This was for larger boxes though. Small pieces of timber are difficult (dangerous) to hold in cross-cut mode. A hold down jig could be made fairly easily.

You would need a fairly large router bit to get a 45 degree bevel on 19 mm timber. You are also routing end grain which is not ideal.

George

[Vonrek]

G'day Sandra
Unless you have a really good setup, I dont think any joint will be really tight off the saw. A lock mitre joint bit will rout neat joints but you will see the joint from the "top" of the box unless you plan to cover it. A 45 degree ramp on a shooting board will cut the cleanest mitre you could imagine and leave the surface perfect for gluing. Check out David Finck's "Making and mastering wood planes" for the best description ive found on using these simple to make jigs.

Cheers Tim

[Sandy Johnston]

I made a jig for my routertable to do fingerjoints. It was a "dedicated jig" suitable only for one size of finger dimentions but worked very well. I used MDF and had a sliding table arrangement with a 280mm back support. I used a 6mm cutter and set up one cut through the jig then positioned a dowel at the step - 6mm to the right.I also made a "shoe" to go over this step and this was my offest for the adjoining corner (one pass then uset the step). It took a bit of practice but when completed produced tight joints. I was making "tool boxes" as an exercise.
Watch out for breakout - use scrap on the trailing face. Watch out for fingers - yours use pushsticks or clamps.

Best of luck -
Sandy across the ditch

[barrysumpter]

Hi Sandra,

Welcome to the forum, and to Triton.

No matter what jig you use there will always be that 'setup' time. Making those fine adjustments. Testing cuts. Recalibrating. Testing. Then making your production cut(s).

Remove the jig. Cut some other peices. Replace the jig. And the 'setup' time is still required. Although you'd hope much less than the first time. Testing cuts. Reclibrating. etc....

Then getting used to how the jig is used. Push here, not there, use your body weight, not your sholders, don't twist, don't jump start, and use a smooth action, etc...

Yep, jigs are a pain. Especially the ones I made. Even the ones from plan that I didn't get exactly right.

Getting agro, or disgusted? Just put it down and walk away. And come back to it when you're ready.

For small pieces, mitre or bevel larger pieces. Then cut the large ones down to size.

So stay with the Bevel Ripping Guide until your sure it doesn't do what you want.

Let me know and I'll have Brian demo the Bevel Ripping Guide at next months meeting.
And you can feel free to come along and learn and even participate if you like.

------------------
Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
Proud Tritoneer
Triton Woodworkers Club Holmesglen (http://home.iprimus.com.au/stu_lou/triton/index.html)



[This message has been edited by barrysumpter (edited 26 August 2002).]

[Sandy Johnston]

Why thankyou Barry.
So nice to get such a welcome
Now wipe the dust of your specs and get real.
If we all give up because we were told it wont work we might as well start tiddlewinks.
Hey I made this round thing but dont know whether to coll it a wheel or a tuit.

Regards
Sanda AKA.....
Sandy across the ditch