Another roadside rescue

[Fumbler]

Scored another little chair for rejuvenation, but after disassembly it seems the only parts wirth keeping are the legs and back bone!!??? So am thinking I might just use as a template not sure. I'm sure I can replace the rotten parts (the seat base frame) and just go to town with the sander. Anyway it's a bit easier than my others currently in the works. I will also use seat webbing this time instead of heian straps, springs and a ton of cotton wadding.

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Sorry about side on shot.

[Fumbler]

I ace decided to replace the arms and feet with Jarrah, and instead of Dowling, I am rounding over the corners. Here's the arms before I shape the round.

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Again apologies for the side view.

[Fumbler]

Here are some more updated photo's of the replicated curved arms and the Tapering jig I made.
I also though I would get creative and make a foot stool to match, so will post photos shortly.

[Fumbler]

Well, today wasn't such a good day, I was sanding the above mentioned chair arms and had discussed with a colleague about putting a spline through the joint as 1. To add strength, 2. Adds a feature. Anyway I discarded the idea as the test piece I made out of scrap 42x19 was unbreakable, this however was not the case with the Jarrah. One broke right across the joint. So I have managed to glue it back together and will consult as to whether to put Japanese tapered pegs in or a regular spline. I'll probably put the spline due to awkward angle needed for the drill. But my next issue, do I use Jarrah and hide/blend the spline or a pale timber for contrast feature.

anyway I will post some pics of my decision later.

[Fumbler]

Well, after one arm snapping at the glued joint, I employed some splines of Tassie oak, decided on a feature style, which I am now incorporating in the feet. So here are 3 pics, of the splines and now ready for spraying.

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Sorry about the rotated last photo.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Looking good!

It's going to be interesting seeing how the finished version compares to the original photo.

New and improved? I think so... :)

[Fumbler]

Looking good!

It's going to be interesting seeing how the finished version compares to the original photo.

New and improved? I think so... :)

Cheers Skew, you bet, as I have made a foot stool to match. and loving all things continuity related I have put Tassie oak splines in the feet also.

[Fumbler]

435109Arms and feet ready for spraying. Just using a clear polyurethane gloss.

and I made a webbing stretcher tool this afternoon so getting one step closer. Best I get the wife ready with the sewing machine.

[Fumbler]

I may getting ready to attach the webbing the to seat base and back, how tight/taught should I pull the webbing? I'd like the chair to be comfortable and thought that if I stretched the webbing to its maximum, it would be quite stiff, almost like a dining chair.

is there trick or certain tension I should stretch the webbing to?

[Arron]

What sort of webbing are you using ?

[Fumbler]

Arron, Black and blue elastic webbing from Spotlight, both 3 core I believe, the black is not as stretchy s the blue.

[Arron]

I looked at the webbing in spotlight a while back and it was 3 core. That’s too soft. It will disappoint. Upholstery is a time consuming business so if you are going to do all that work then you need to get the foundation right. Get some quality webbing, graded for seats, which will be 4 core. There are a couple of online upholstery suppliers who are both very good.

I wouldn’t use that black webbing on a seat. Maybe on a chair back if it was a dining chair with a vertical back. The blue 3 core is fine for a dining chair back but not for a chair seat. For an easy chair like you are doing, the back is kind of a cross between a back and a seat in terms of weight distribution, so I would use 4 core on both seat and back.

In terms of how much stretch, I don’t know of any formula, but you need a lot. More than an average person could apply without a webbing stretcher. There is virtually no chance of making a seat too stiff using elastic webbing, no matter what you do.

The problem with all webbing is they are limited lifespan, compared to springs, but I agree that given the value of the chair and the fact that this is a learning experience then webbing is probably the right way to go.

Don’t forget to round off any sharp edges which might come in contact with the webbing and wear through it. Also, use a layer of hessian, nice and tight, over the webbing so it doesn’t cut into the foam.

Cheers
Arron

[Fumbler]

Well that puts a spanner in the works, thanks for the advice, although I will stick with what I have bought as it'll be good practice. I will get some hessian though and see how I go. I have made a webbing stretcher so can get it nice and taught.

i doubt it will get sat in much as the wife won't sit down unless she's sick, so will probably use it as a clothes horse as going in the bedroom corner.

[Arron]

Fair enough, if it’s mainly a learning experience then use what you have to hand.

Cheers
Arron

[Fumbler]

Thanks, and thanks again for the advice.

Richard

[Fumbler]

Just waiting for the finish to cure, and the one part that I thought I was going to have trouble with (ie end grain) has come out the best. So I am debating as to whether to give one more sand and remove the small visible grain from the arm faces and the legs.

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[Arron]

They look great.

My thoughts on your question - I’ve had more trouble from finishes being too thick then anything else, so generally stop as soon as you are satisfied.

Plus I like to see a little of the grain telegraphing through the finish, makes it look like real timber not plastic.

[Fumbler]

They look great.

My thoughts on your question - I’ve had more trouble from finishes being too thick then anything else, so generally stop as soon as you are satisfied.

Plus I like to see a little of the grain telegraphing through the finish, makes it look like real timber not plastic.

I agree, finishing is not my forte. I get it good and then think 1 more and she'll be apples, yet I end up fudging it and going back 3 steps and I never seem to get to where it was when I said 1 more. same now. I shouldn't have done this last one, so its a very good time to say, enough. besides i'm having a god awful time with a satin finish on some door name boards for a friend at my wife's work. I slapped on a few sealing coats on the back, then flipped em over and being the front, care needed to be given to get the best result, but in my haste i seem to have ballsed it up and its not sitting right, layer after sanded layer back to bare wood, start again. My wife has been pressuring me to get it done as been 2months apparently and this is what happens when I rush. Anyway the weather is not in my favour and as I live in "frog hollow" Lane Cove (ie the lowest part of the riverview valley and about 0-1m above sea level, it takes a while now to warm up in the mornings. cold temp and spraying finish does not always have a favourable result.

[Fumbler]

Arron, I see your from Central coast, want to give this bloke a hand at making a seat?

https://www.9news.com.au/national/2018/05/18/17/20/nsw-driver-sitting-stool-stripped-back-car-central-coast

hahahahaha

[Fumbler]

Footstool almost complete, the better half only has to sew the corners then I can finish off and get to the chair.

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[Keith_1]

Really like your work :2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Cathie would probably like me to try and do something like this

Regards

Keith

[Fumbler]

Really like your work :2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Cathie would probably like me to try and do something like this

Regards

Keith

Keith, knoowing how skilled you are, this simple project would probably be below you. But then again you'd actually have to stop playing with your big-scaled trains in the shed to be able to get in the car to find a chair to be rescued! Hahahaha.

life and jewettery boxes (and the wife's Christmas present) keeps getting in the way of me finishing this off.

Richard

[Fumbler]

Sorry about the long time between drinks but, a few boxes been in the way, so now finished the webbing and hessian covering, next to add the sponge, Dacron and finally the covering.
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[Arron]

If that were mine I’d be putting an extra strip of webbing right behind the front rail of the chair.

Otherwise the front rail may feel “boney” when you sit on the chair - and the foam rubber will do little to alleviate that.

Cheers
Arron

[Fumbler]

Otherwise the front rail may feel “boney” when you sit on the chair - and the foam rubber will do little to alleviate that.

Cheers
Arron

didnt think about that. Cheers.

[Xanthorrhoeas]

In the 19th Century, at least in the examples that I have worked on, they used a firm long 'mound' of a stiff padding to avoid that hard 'bony' front rail being felt on the legs. I have attached a photo of an 1840-50's chair I reupholstered. It shows that they used straw bound in a firm mound. You may find straw available but some other firm, long lasting padding would also serve.

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[Fumbler]

In the 19th Century, at least in the examples that I have worked on, they used a firm long 'mound' of a stiff padding to avoid that hard 'bony' front rail being felt on the legs. It shows that they used straw bound in a firm mound. You may find straw available but some other firm, long lasting padding would also serve.


Now im confused, I thought Arron meant the inside, as the cushion sags, (hence the need for more webbing at the front) that's a pain, as I've cut the sponge, I could however still recover by putting a piece of sponge right at the front, I'll have to see how it goes. I'm preparing the material tomorrow.

[Arron]

Now im confused, I thought Arron meant the inside, as the cushion sags, (hence the need for more webbing at the front) that's a pain, as I've cut the sponge, I could however still recover by putting a piece of sponge right at the front, I'll have to see how it goes. I'm preparing the material tomorrow.
What I meant was that your first side-to-side webbing appears to be quite a long way back from the front rail of the seat. This will allow you and the foam to sink into this space somewhat, and consequently you will feel the front rail pressing under the thighs.

You want to have the first row of webbing right up close to the front rail, and good and tight. That’s all I was saying.

Then you are OK to put the foam cushion over.

BTW: another tip I’ve learned the hard way. Once you have the webbing and/or springs fixed on put the chair down on the ground and slap it around a bit. By this I mean sit in it, lean from side to side, rock it etc. listen for squeaks and feel for loose joints. It’s your last chance to fix things before having to do a total undo.
Weird things sometimes happen when the frame goes under tension from springs or webbing.

[Fumbler]

That's what I thought you meant and I have done that, adding another line of webbing up front. Cheers.

[Fumbler]

One step further along.

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[Fumbler]

Finally finished.........

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Its not perfect but she'll do nicely. Just on 1 year to the day of rescue.

i can't wait to put the feet up, put the tunes on and kick back with a book.

[Fumbler]

Sorry, 1 more.

the ensemble
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[Arron]

Well done. Nothing like dozing off in a chair you did yourself.
Cheers
Arron

[Fumbler]

And just in time too, as the in-laws come in from U.K. On Wednesday morning, so I'm sure Nanny will love to sit in the afternoon sun reading Judith Nunn, with a cuppa.