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View Full Version : cracking camphor !!!!!



smiife
2nd April 2018, 07:34 PM
Hi guys , got some shed time today , so dragged out a camphor log I had stashed away , I wanted to make a nice platter , so cut it up on the bandsaw and it started to look pretty bad , cracks every where , the log was 600mm x 300mm
But i ended up with a smallish blank , so just decided to have a go anyway ,
It turned out to crap but was good fun just turning away and good practice for tool control too! Here is the result ............anyone want some pen blanks:U:U:U
Oh yes ... the shed smells great too.......:U

Picko
2nd April 2018, 07:43 PM
I'd sat you're very lucky you didn't wear that.

brainstrust
2nd April 2018, 08:37 PM
you can save that with a decent mould and some resin. So much going on with that grain, save it!!!!
maybe a spacey look with the right colours:D

Paul39
3rd April 2018, 12:38 AM
I'w with the above, too nice to not save. Put a butterfly joint toward the outside and fill the crack with whatever pleases you. I use coffee grounds and CA or yellow glue. The result looks like a bark inclusion. I have also used sanding dust and fine shavings of a contrasting color. If the plate is strong enough as is, you could dispense with the butterfly joint. Resin with the above would add strength.

You could run some CA into the center part to strengthen and sand the sharp edges of the open crack, and finish.

Nice shape, beautiful figure.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachments/f5/39301d1330031366-pre-dovetail-butterfly-dutchman-joints-question-dsc08332.jpg


(http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachments/f5/39301d1330031366-pre-dovetail-butterfly-dutchman-joints-question-dsc08332.jpg)

brainstrust
3rd April 2018, 01:33 AM
If you dont want to save it I'll buy it, though postage might be the issue!

Nubsnstubs
3rd April 2018, 01:54 AM
Smiife, that's my kind of wood. It has all the character to make a beautiful plate or platter. What I do with that kind of wood is turn it down to about 1/2" thick. That really gives me an idea whether it's going to be worth saving or not. Using a Kreg type drill bit with the starter/pilot point, I then drill 3/8" holes across the cracks, making sure I exit the profile. Glue in the dowels with regular wood glue of choice, pound the dowels in, and turn to completion exposing the dowels as I go.

For better reference on my suggestion, here is a video by Chas Thornhill, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmgZG4xlFBw&list=UUTPCmrylO4CoSoYhoneEXCw&index=13 . I got the idea from him, but I would highly caution against using any metal rods in place of wooden dowels. Stick with wood.

There has never been a piece of wood that can't be safely turned. It is a matter on how to turn it safely. Stop when you might see what looks like a problem, evaluate, and either set it aside, or do what needs to be done to make it safer, and proceed. ................. Jerry(in Tucson)USA

brainstrust
3rd April 2018, 02:16 AM
Smiife, that's my kind of wood. It has all the character to make a beautiful plate or platter. What I do with that kind of wood is turn it down to about 1/2" thick. That really gives me an idea whether it's going to be worth saving or not. Using a Kreg type drill bit with the starter/pilot point, I then drill 3/8" holes across the cracks, making sure I exit the profile. Glue in the dowels with regular wood glue of choice, pound the dowels in, and turn to completion exposing the dowels as I go.

For better reference on my suggestion, here is a video by Chas Thornhill, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmgZG4xlFBw&list=UUTPCmrylO4CoSoYhoneEXCw&index=13 . I got the idea from him, but I would highly caution against using any metal rods in place of wooden dowels. Stick with wood.

There has never been a piece of wood that can't be safely turned. It is a matter on how to turn it safely. Stop when you might see what looks like a problem, evaluate, and either set it aside, or do what needs to be done to make it safer, and proceed. ................. Jerry(in Tucson)USA

With you on that,,,,,,,,,,,mostly! You gotta save it. It's too friggin grain worthy to discard.

Fumbler
3rd April 2018, 03:34 AM
resin me up baby!!, stick some nice pale/light blue epoxy in there and she'll look a treat. (not that it doesn't now) but a piece well worth keeping/saving.

smiife
3rd April 2018, 09:12 PM
I'd sat you're very lucky you didn't wear that.

Hi picko , yeah, I was thinking the same thing !


you can save that with a decent mould and some resin. So much going on with that grain, save it!!!!
maybe a spacey look with the right colours:D


Hi braintrust, I have never tried the resin path , not sure I would know where to start !


I'w with the above, too nice to not save. Put a butterfly joint toward the outside and fill the crack with whatever pleases you. I use coffee grounds and CA or yellow glue. The result looks like a bark inclusion. I have also used sanding dust and fine shavings of a contrasting color. If the plate is strong enough as is, you could dispense with the butterfly joint. Resin with the above would add strength.

You could run some CA into the center part to strengthen and sand the sharp edges of the open crack, and finish.

Nice shape, beautiful figure.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachments/f5/39301d1330031366-pre-dovetail-butterfly-dutchman-joints-question-dsc08332.jpg


(http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachments/f5/39301d1330031366-pre-dovetail-butterfly-dutchman-joints-question-dsc08332.jpg)

Hi paul , thanks for your comments , much appreciated !

smiife
3rd April 2018, 09:23 PM
Hi braintrust, If you want it mate , it, s yours , I haven, t sanded it or anything so if I send it to you , you have to finish it off , pm me if interested......

[QUOTE=Nubsnstubs;2078718]Smiife, that's my kind of wood. It has all the character to make a beautiful plate or platter. What I do with that kind of wood is turn it down to about 1/2" thick. That really gives me an idea whether it's going to be worth saving or not. Using a Kreg type drill bit with the starter/pilot point, I then drill 3/8" holes across the cracks, making sure I exit the profile. Glue in the dowels with regular wood glue of choice, pound the dowels in, and turn to completion exposing the dowels as I go.

For better reference on my suggestion, here is a video by Chas Thornhill, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmgZG4xlFBw&list=UUTPCmrylO4CoSoYhoneEXCw&index=13 . I got the idea from him, but I would highly caution against using any metal rods in place of wooden dowels. Stick with wood.

There has never been a piece of wood that can't be safely turned. It is a matter on how to turn it safely. Stop when you might see what looks like a problem, evaluate, and either set it aside, or do what needs to be done to make it safer, and proceed. ................. Jerry(in Tucson)USA

Hi jerry , thanks for the Info , I will check out the video later , cheers !


With you on that,,,,,,,,,,,mostly! You gotta save it. It's too friggin grain worthy to discard.

Nah , you can save It........:U

smiife
3rd April 2018, 09:27 PM
resin me up baby!!, stick some nice pale/light blue epoxy in there and she'll look a treat. (not that it doesn't now) but a piece well worth keeping/saving.


Hi fumbler , I wouldn, t really know where to start , :o

dai sensei
3rd April 2018, 09:31 PM
Hi braintrust, I have never tried the resin path , not sure I would know where to start !

Should have given me a ring LOL.

Not sure how thin it is now, but if it still has some meat, it can be done. Simplest way would be gaffe tap on the back and then a mix of clear epoxy glue with coffee grinds/sawdust/black oxide/stone from the front. Alternatively place putty/plasticine/blu-tac on back and where necessary on the front to create well, then cast clear or coloured casting epoxy. After casting sand back with a Dremmel, so there isn't a sharp edge to catch on, then return and finish

smiife
3rd April 2018, 09:43 PM
Should have given me a rIng LOL.

Not sure how thin it is now, but if it still has some meat, it can be done. Simplest way would be gaffe tap on the back and then a mix of clear epoxy glue with coffee grinds/sawdust/black oxide/stone from the front. Alternatively place putty/plasticine/blu-tac on back and where necessary on the front to create well, then cast clear or coloured casting epoxy. After casting sand back with a Dremmel, so there isn't a sharp edge to catch on, then return and finish

Hi Neil , I forgot you are Into the resin /coffee filling , I would think the cracks
are a bit big , I wish I had the time to spend on It , unfortunately I have to work:~

Kidbee
3rd April 2018, 09:49 PM
Hi fumbler , I wouldn, t really know where to start , :o

Have a look at Brendan Stemp's resin Youtube videos. He is the resin master and sells the stuff as well. You could even try some small gum nuts in the filler like he does.

Also a bit of sealer on your turning blanks would not go astray.

My wife won't let me bring Camphor Laurel into the house as it makes her sneeze. But on saying that there is no other timber that smells so nice in a workshop.

smiife
3rd April 2018, 09:57 PM
Have a look at Brendan Stemp's resin Youtube videos. He is the resin master and sells the stuff as well. You could even try some small gum nuts in the filler like he does.

Also a bit of sealer on your turning blanks would not go astray.

My wife won't let me bring Camphor Laurel into the house as it makes her sneeze. But on saying that there is no other timber that smells so nice in a workshop.

Hi kidbee, I do actually have one of brendon, s bowls complete with nuts
The campour was sealed when I got It in feb 2014 !
The campour doesn, t bother me at all , I love the smell all through the shed :2tsup: