Fret or Coping Saw?

[Regdop]

This is probably a dumb question, but nothing ventured nothing gained.... When removing the waste whilst cutting dovetails is it preferable to use a coping saw or fret saw? Or is it dependent on timber size/dovetail size.

[orraloon]

I use a fret saw as I find it easier to control but there is no hard and fast rule. What ever one works best for you. Cant remember the last time my coping saw got a run.
Regards
John

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Something that has always intrigued me: is there any real difference between a fret saw and a coping saw?

Granted, a coping saw usually has a beefier blade, but not always. I've seen coping saws sold/marketed with what I would call a fret saw blade. (Pretty much the same as a scrollsaw blade.)

Similarly, fret saws usually have a deeper frame/reach of cut, but not always. As above, I've seen fret saws sold/marketed with what...

Or is it a mark of recent generations that what were once two distinctly different saw types have become blurred into a range of mongrel hybrids sold under both names?

[Regdop]

Or is it a mark of recent generations that what were once two distinctly different saw types have become blurred into a range of mongrel hybrids sold under both names?


I guess this is my point... when I was a lad back in primary(60's) we used fret saws for thin plywood, they had a wire type blade and were 4-5 long with a big long back on them. We graduated to coping saws with thicker stock such as masonite for bases doing basket weaving. Therefore I come back to my original point is it just based on the stock/dovetail size at that particular time.... or whatever saw you just happen to own...

[KeithP]

A coping saw, because that's what I have and works perfectly for me.

Regards
Keith

[rwbuild]

I use both at the same time because I fret about not coping with the timber at hand :rolleyes:

[Treecycle]

I use a fret saw mainly because of the smaller blade as you can slide it down the kerf you make with the dovetail saw, turn it and start sawing out the waste in a straight line without cutting down the side then around the corner.
Having said that, they will both do the job just differently.
I know it seems extravagant, but I brought one of these (https://www.lie-nielsen.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=35_41&product_id=75). But hey, a man has got to have some special things in his shop and its not something I do every week.:no:

[derekcohen]

This is probably a dumb question, but nothing ventured nothing gained.... When removing the waste whilst cutting dovetails is it preferable to use a coping saw or fret saw? Or is it dependent on timber size/dovetail size.

These are quite different saws. I much prefer a fret saw for dovetails. The thin blades are able to get into the corners better. It can remove waste in one stroke, where the coping saw requires 2 minimum and sometimes three strokes. I will use a coping saw if working with thick and hard boards and where the cuts are long.

There is an article on this on my website: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/KnewConceptsFretsaw.html

And a second one here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/KnewConceptsBirdcageFretsaw.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[auscab]

[QUOTE=Regdop;2086318 is it preferable to use a coping saw or fret saw? Or is it dependent on timber size/dovetail size.[/QUOTE]

Fret or coping saw . I thought they, the saws, were both the same thing . My preference though is the band saw if the blade gets through the thin gap for the pin Ok. My Band saw with the 3/8 blade. Its the fastest way I know of for sawing them. I sort of finger gauge the drawer side and mill the bottom flat as a final pass at the end.

Rob

[royflatmate]

I guess it depends what type of saw you cut the dovetails with.If you use one of the fine japanese saws then you may find that you cant get the blade of your coping/fret saw in the cut.What works for me is a jewelers saw with a scroll saw blade and they don't cost the earth.

cheers.....Roy

[rustynail]

Both will do the job. It comes down to a bit of fine tuning. If you are working with hard timber the courser blade may be preferable. The kerf of the initial cuts may require the thinner blade, but this can be overcome by a sweeping down cut from the top of the board and then repeated in the other direction for the remaining piece of waste.
Now a coping saw with a fret saw blade is a lovely bit of kit for dovetailing.

[derekcohen]

What works for me is a jewelers saw with a scroll saw blade and they don't cost the earth.

Roy, a jeweller's saw is a fret saw. Same thing.


Both will do the job. It comes down to a bit of fine tuning. If you are working with hard timber the courser blade may be preferable. The kerf of the initial cuts may require the thinner blade, but this can be overcome by a sweeping down cut from the top of the board and then repeated in the other direction for the remaining piece of waste.
Now a coping saw with a fret saw blade is a lovely bit of kit for dovetailing.

Rustynail, your description of sawing by sweeping down, etc is what I referred to earlier as needing more cuts with a coping saw than a fretsaw. You must be referring to the use of a coping saw.

This is a coping saw ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/KnewConceptsFretsaw_html_56da582b.jpg

This is the saw cut with a coping saw ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BreadboardEnds_html_7f296fb9.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BreadboardEnds_html_m2a61ad03.jpg

Here is a fretsaw ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/KnewConceptsFretsaw_html_m6bcdb73e.jpg

... and another ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/KnewConceptsFretsaw_html_293789c9.jpg

This is the saw cut with a fretsaw ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ThroughDovetails3_html_m46d81eff.jpg

As with all sawing, the secret is to let the saw do the work. Hold it lightly and aim to avoid the blade bending (it will bend of course, just limit the amount it does).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Regdop]

These are quite different saws. I much prefer a fret saw for dovetails. The thin blades are able to get into the corners better. It can remove waste in one stroke, where the coping saw requires 2 minimum and sometimes three strokes. I will use a coping saw if working with thick and hard boards and where the cuts are long.

There is an article on this on my website: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/KnewConceptsFretsaw.html

And a second one here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/KnewConceptsBirdcageFretsaw.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

thanks Derek....good reads!

[KeithP]

Very informative Derek, thank you.
I think that I will now buy a fretsaw.

Regards
Keith