Advice on under-bed drawers?

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I'm building a simple sled-bed base. Basically 3x 2.1m lengths of 240x45 KDHW about 800mm apart (queen sized bed) with merbau slats over the top.

I'm planning on fitting drawers between each runner for linen storage, probably around 800Wx180(ish)Hx1500L.

However I can't decide on how to fit them.

If I use drawer slides, they'll have to be loooong to cater for the 1.5m length. The length would also mean I'd need to be extra accurate in ensuring the runners are accurately parallel.

Although I envisage the drawers being for linen I can't guarantee that something heavier will go in at a future date. And I also imagine that they'll be filled from the "front" first... meaning that when opened fully there'll be a lot of weight and leverage on the first few mounting screws in the slides.

The other option I'm considering is to build the drawers as independant boxes and mounting them on castors. This has much greater room for error but I'm uncertain about wear & tear on the carpet (short pile), ease of use on the carpet or even what would be the right selection of castor.

This is a project that I assume many here have already undertaken, so does anybody have some feedback?

Anything you've done and would do differently next time?

[orraloon]

I would think the box on castors would be the easier option. Castors will do the carpet less harm than the feet of the bed will. In the past when we had a computer desk the office chair wheels were marking the wood floor so the answer was a small rug under the wheels.
Regards
John

[joe greiner]

In lieu of casters, I forget what they're called, but there are really slippery pads used for moving furniture. Probably teflon or such on the bottom, in various sizes, and about 10-15mm thick, so very little height penalty vs. casters.

Cheers,
Joe

[Bohdan]

Because the drawers will only move backwards and forwards castors are un-necessary and will cause problems when you try to reverse direction. You can just fit simple wheels on bolts as bearings to the sides of the drawer.

[Beardy]

Agree with Bohdan, casters don’t work well particularly on carpet in that situation as they have to rotate 180 degrees with each movement in or out which also causes them to rotate sideways in the movement that can cause them to jam on each other
Straight fixed wheels work best or I have also done it with 1200 long heavy duty drawer slides but they are quite expensive and a bit More time consuming to set up

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Thanks, fellas. Fixed wheels it is.

I suspect that you've saved me a headache...

[ian]

I'm building a simple sled-bed base. Basically 3x 2.1m lengths of 240x45 KDHW about 800mm apart (queen sized bed) with merbau slats over the top.

I'm planning on fitting drawers between each runner for linen storage, probably around 800Wx180(ish)Hx1500L.

However I can't decide on how to fit them.

If I use drawer slides, they'll have to be loooong to cater for the 1.5m length. The length would also mean I'd need to be extra accurate in ensuring the runners are accurately parallel.

Although I envisage the drawers being for linen I can't guarantee that something heavier will go in at a future date. And I also imagine that they'll be filled from the "front" first... meaning that when opened fully there'll be a lot of weight and leverage on the first few mounting screws in the slides.

The other option I'm considering is to build the drawers as independant boxes and mounting them on castors. This has much greater room for error but I'm uncertain about wear & tear on the carpet (short pile), ease of use on the carpet or even what would be the right selection of castor.

This is a project that I assume many here have already undertaken, so does anybody have some feedback?

Anything you've done and would do differently next time?
apart from thinking that your bed is structural overkill -- mine has two 200 x 45 rails supporting full width 100 x 25 Tassie oak slats -- I think the easiest way to build your under bed drawers is to use full extension slides attached to 17 mm construction ply 'membranes" stiffened with pine 2 x 4s and suspended from the 240 x 45 rails with joist hangers.

[Chief Tiff]

Europeans have been using divan beds with built in drawers for a few decades now, and these are fairly flimsy affairs only good for holding bedding. The most common method is to fit them on the sides of the bed but frame but some do have them at the foot.

Why do you want them so long at 1500mm? I mean, I can see you looking to maximise the available space but seriously that's looooong.

Ok, the divan type drawers would be about 800mm long but they would be fitted with only 500mm cheap pressed steel drawer slides. The reason being that folded linen is quite large and is easily accessible with a drawer only half open, plus the leverage would be reduced. I don't know the maximum length slides available but you could use that principle. If you are concerned about the leverage issue then fit one or two wheels at the drawer front, small filing cabinets use a single caster to prevent them tipping over when the bottom drawer is fully opened up.

Alternatively, full length extending drawer slides as used in 4WD's are available in really long lengths, and are actually quite cheap.... when bought from overseas!

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Why do you want them so long at 1500mm? I mean, I can see you looking to maximise the available space but seriously that's looooong.

Yep. Each one will have the equivalent of twice the 'normal' under-bed drawers storage. We're hoping to move the bed linens and duvets (the duvets are the space killer) out of the miniscule hallway linen closet so we can use it for more frequently used items such as bath towels.


Alternatively, full length extending drawer slides as used in 4WD's are available in really long lengths, and are actually quite cheap.... when bought from overseas!

Yeah, I've been looking at those. :)

At the moment I'm inclined to go with fixed wheels on the drawers, but as they can be built separately to the bed-frame I'm keeping my options open. Provided I keep the bed runners truly perpendicular to each other, I can always retrofit slides.

I do like the hybrid idea of castors on the front though... :think:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

apart from thinking that your bed is structural overkill

Definitely. And deliberately. :)

I'm tired of fixing "flimsy" commercial bed bases.

Although, after sourcing the materials, I'm actually going with 240x35 runners, not x45. But they'll be made of Blackbutt so weight is increasing. I wonder if I'll need to bolster the floor joists? :D

[ian]

Definitely. And deliberately. :)

I'm tired of fixing "flimsy" commercial bed bases.

Although, after sourcing the materials, I'm actually going with 240x35 runners, not x45. But they'll be made of Blackbutt so weight is increasing. I wonder if I'll need to bolster the floor joists? :DI don't think you'd call this queen sized bed flimsy.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=437435&d=1529118583

the show rails are 6 or 8 x 1.5 Aust Cedar, the slats ar supported on 1.5 x 2 battens glued and screwed to the rails.
10 years on -- when it was dismantled for storage -- it was still as solid as.

the key is the joints. Proper M&Ts for the head and foot boards, and bolted dowel joints for the long rails.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I don't think you'd call this queen sized bed flimsy.

I wouldn't say it's flimsy at all. After all, the rails/slats are practically the same size as I'll be using. The reason I'm going 240 instead of your 200 is to gain a li'l more height, not structural considerations, as the bed won't have legs or feet.

The central runner is overkill, admittedly, but it keeps the build minimalist for easy breakdown and transport. We're only renting and I doubt the owners will be too happy with me removing windows every time I want to move a piece of large furniture in/out of the house.

I imagine that once we set up our own domicile I'll have a completely different set of criteria for the build. :)

[ian]

I wouldn't say it's flimsy at all. After all, the rails/slats are practically the same size as I'll be using. The reason I'm going 240 instead of your 200 is to gain a li'l more height, not structural considerations, as the bed won't have legs or feet. no legs, no feet :?

how are you planning on achieving clearance for the under bed drawers?



The central runner is overkill, admittedly, but it keeps the build minimalist for easy breakdown and transport. We're only renting and I doubt the owners will be too happy with me removing windows every time I want to move a piece of large furniture in/out of the house.a bed should break down into 5 main components, Head board or rail, foot board or rail -- both including the legs or feet -- side rails x 2, slats. all of these should readily fit through doorways and up and down any stairs.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

no legs, no feet :?

how are you planning on achieving clearance for the under bed drawers?

It's a sled bed. The runners sit on the floor, with the slats fastened on top like decking over bearers. The ends of the slats will probably overhang the runners by 2 or 3"

I think 240mm is more than enough clearance; after taking into account castor heights, etc. I should have around 180mm drawer depth. It is a tad shallow for stowing bulkier linens, hence the desire for extra length.

FWIW, I'd originally planned on profiling the bottoms of the runners on a BS to give the appearance of a very low hung japanese torii... but for a few practical reasons decided against it.

For now.

I can always break the base down at a later date and refine the profile should it take my fancy. Or build a different style of base and re-purpose the Blackbutt for some other item of furniture. :)

[Beardy]

If you mount your casters from the inside of the drawer so that only 10 to 15mm of wheel projects through the base ( carpet type will determine this) you can maintain most of your 240mm drawer unit less tolerances for clearance and drawer base thickness

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Just a minor update.

Finally got a cable for the phone so here's how the basic base looks for those who were interested. The drawers are still on the honeydo list, as is a timber slab bed head.

Meh. It's another pic that doesn't want to rotate right way up. :~

[Chris Parks]

Put the drawer on wheels and put guide wheels inside the frame that run against the drawer sides to keep it straight. Most divans with built in drawers have the drawers across the bed two each side and use wood or HDPE runners but they can be a bit fragile if pulled out and not supported near the end of travel. Just the length of these drawers will dictate they be on wheels. Though the long slides used in 4WD are damned strong I think there would be enough droop that the drawer end would drag on the carpet.

[richmond68]

Put the drawer on wheels and put guide wheels inside the frame that run against the drawer sides to keep it straight. Just the length of these drawers will dictate they be on wheels. Though the long slides used in 4WD are damned strong I think there would be enough droop that the drawer end would drag on the carpet.

The heavy duty full extension slides would more than handle it. 1500mm slides rated at 227kg still support 125kg at full extension. The price, about $300 per drawer. The ones Bunnings sell are only 90kg rated and should be avoided. If you don't need full extension you can use shorter runners and save a bit. It may also be possible to use top hung sliding door runners if you are a creative thinker.