Chuck washers / Job washers

[Fumbler]

team,

a question about what people use for washers between 1. spindle and scroll chuck 2. scroll chuck and job.

does every one use a washer between the spindle head and their scroll chuck, if so what material do they make it out of, leather, thick card, metal?

and secondly in the 2 pics attached I had forgotten to sand and finish the end before turning around in the chuck to do the bottom of the grinder. you can see in the photo of the unfinished grinder. it's hard up against the chuck, but then in the second picture with the polish applied, I have had to move out from face of the chuck and steady with the tailstock padded so I can do the top. not to mention the fingers getting a little too close for comfort to the chuck.

I know what I did wrong, and that is once I have drilled out the top and rounded over, I should sand and put finish on before I turn it around, my question is, when I butt it up to the stock head as in pic with unpolished grinder, what should I put between the job and the chuck to protect the part I have already sanded and applied finish to? A homemade thick cardboard washer perhaps?

[China]

There is no need to use a washer

[hughie]

There is no need to use a washer

Agreed, totally not needed.

[Paul39]

Chuck washer: Theory is that the washer will keep the chuck from sticking on the spindle. If the chuck is removed from the spindle twice a year, oiled up on the threads and mating surfaces, run on and off a few times, male and female threads carefully cleaned along with all mating surfaces, and the chuck put back on the spindle and snugged up by hand, it is not likely to stick.

The flats are the register and are what makes the chuck stay on straight, not the threads. If you use a plastic or any other soft washer between the flats, the chuck is likely to be tilted a bit and wobble around. If you rough out a bowl, set it aside, then remount it is likely to be flopping around more when remounted. It will not run true anyway because of drying and moving, the tilted chuck makes it worse.

If you use a hard washer, it is likely to be a bit wedge shaped unless you have it ground parallel, but then you are back to having the register flat against the chuck flat, with a washer between, which needs to be taken apart, cleaned and oiled to keep from sticking.

As previous posts say, not needed.

As to job washers, do what you have to do to complete this one. Carefully think through the steps needed on future ones, even to making a list of what to do, in what order. I don't do grinders, so I can't help you there.

[Fumbler]

Paul, Yes, thank you, that all makes perfect sense, I'm glad there are some who give an explanation. Cheers China. I do have to get the planning part a little more organised but that comes with experience and a few cock ups along the way. This time I sanded fully before rotating in the chuck and changing the jaws, now I know why people have several chucks, a tedious task but still not that bad.

[pommyphil]

If you like explanations this from Retired might help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UEOk2rdgeQ Phil

[berocol]

Hello Fumbler

I have done quite a few salt and pepper grinders, using shark jaws on a Vicmark 100 chuck. My trick is to use sizes for recesses and tenons on the grinder body and knob that closely match the nearly-closed diameter of my shark jaws - 47mm in expansion mode and 38mm in normal grip mode. By doing that I can grip on finished surfaces with minimal marking.

I make my grinders with a 38mm diameter tenon on the knob, that fits into a matching recess in the top of the body. I turn the bottom of the knob first, including the tenon and adjacent bead, and finish that part. I then turn the knob around, grip it on the finished tenon, and shape and finish the top of the knob. The tenon is not visible when the mill is assembled so any minor marking from the chuck doesn't matter, unless you are a real stickler, which I am not.

I can probably find some photos and a written description of my process if you are interested.

cheers, Colin

[Fumbler]

Hello Fumbler

I have done quite a few salt and pepper grinders, using shark jaws on a Vicmark 100 chuck. My trick is to use sizes for recesses and tenons on the grinder body and knob that closely match the nearly-closed diameter of my shark jaws - 47mm in expansion mode and 38mm in normal grip mode. By doing that I can grip on finished surfaces with minimal marking.

I make my grinders with a 38mm diameter tenon on the knob, that fits into a matching recess in the top of the body. I turn the bottom of the knob first, including the tenon and adjacent bead, and finish that part. I then turn the knob around, grip it on the finished tenon, and shape and finish the top of the knob. The tenon is not visible when the mill is assembled so any minor marking from the chuck doesn't matter, unless you are a real stickler, which I am not.

I can probably find some photos and a written description of my process if you are interested.

cheers, Colin

thanks Colin, yes all manner of pics would be appreciated. I am only doing the basic antique grinders at the moment until I can find the right piece for the mechanisms I have then your photos will be very much appreciated. The latest one I turned, I finished then turned around and I didn't get any run marks so all good. But I now know that washers only distort things.

[berocol]

Hi Fumbler

some pics:

The blanks, with chuck tenons cut in the waste on the RH ends of both pieces
441251

The body finished, gripped in expansion mode in the base recess, and with a temporary plug in the top for the tailstock
441252

The blank for the knob, held on the chuck tenon in the waste material, with the tenon in the base of the knob partly finished
441253

The knob with the base and bead finished, gripped on the base tenon to finish the top curve.
441254

The finished salt/pepper mill - about 300 high x 65 diameter
441255

Hope this gives you some more ideas.

cheers, Colin