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Brena-450
6th November 2018, 05:30 PM
Hey guys I’m having an issue with my lathe only just started using it and I’m not sure if the problem is speed, dodgy tools or just the type of wood it’s just treated pine and it’s coming out really rough any ideas? Much appreciated Brent
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181106/7fdab30b4adbecbfd9574da1af65125f.jpg


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Fumbler
6th November 2018, 07:39 PM
I'd say a combination of timber and tool sharpness.

are you practising? Hence using treated pine? Are you masking up?

BobL
6th November 2018, 07:55 PM
Hey guys I’m having an issue with my lathe only just started using it and I’m not sure if the problem is speed, dodgy tools or just the type of wood it’s just treated pine and it’s coming out really rough any ideas? Much appreciated Bren

It's most likely a combination of all three. Rather than dodgy tools I'd say its more likely to be sharpness of tools. Your best bet is to find a local wood turners club and join up and get some expert instruction - it wi save you a lot of time and wasted timber.

Brena-450
6th November 2018, 08:01 PM
Yeah the tools I found at an op shop and probably arnt the best quality I have sharpened them but the angles may be incorrect as I just copied what the last person had done. I might get a decent set of tools and some quality wood and give it a go.
Fumbler what is it I am supposed to mask up?
Cheers


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arose62
6th November 2018, 09:57 PM
I'd say a combination of timber and tool sharpness.

are you practising? Hence using treated pine? Are you masking up?

What Fumbler said. Pine is soft and will tear and dent easily - sharp tools are the go.
Masking your face will keep nasty chemical-treated wood particles out of your lungs.

Brena-450
7th November 2018, 12:43 AM
Ahh mask up as in face mask haha yeah I did I was thinking he meant masking tape and I was super confused haha cheers guys will have to invest in some decent tools as I know the angles are all stuffed on at least one of the ones I have.


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Dalboy
7th November 2018, 01:25 AM
I think most things have been covered.

Tools need to be sharp.

Presentation of the tool to the wood.

Type of wood.

Direction of cut cutting down hill rather than up against the grain.

What tools are you trying to use on this piece do you have a photo of them.

If you can get the above points sorted then turning becomes a pleasure. and as stated try joining a club or find a turner close by who is willing to show you what you are doing wrong

Paul39
7th November 2018, 01:55 AM
Hey guys I’m having an issue with my lathe only just started using it and I’m not sure if the problem is speed, dodgy tools or just the type of wood it’s just treated pine and it’s coming out really rough any ideas? Much appreciated Brent
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181106/7fdab30b4adbecbfd9574da1af65125f.jpg


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If you did the finished part on the extreme right of the piece in the photo, keep doing that. That is how it is supposed to look. If the rough part is done with a roughing gouge on half rotten timber, that is normal. Get it down to round then use a skew and spindle gouge.

As above, get some instruction on sharpening and use of tools. An hour of instruction will save 10 - 20 hours of experimentation and trial and error.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
7th November 2018, 09:56 AM
The following is just in way of some explanation... the best advice has already been given; find a tame woodturner to spend an hour or three with you and show you the ropes. A little demonstration beats words, words, words hands down! ;)

As has also already been said, Pine really isn't the best timber to begin with. (Treated is even less so, for health reasons.)

When I was teaching young turners I generally started 'em with pieces of 4x4 KDHW fence post and didn't introduce 'em to pine until they were feeling cocky and needed a reminder of reality... :roll:

At first glance I'd guess that you've turned the rough area with a gouge... in scraper mode. Meaning only the cutting edge is touching the timber. No matter how sharp the gouge is, it'll tend to tear out the grain like that because the cutting angles are wrong. Way too shallow.

Instead, the bevel should be rubbing; One approach to learn this is to angle the tool upwards on the tool rest and lower the tip until the middle of the bevel makes contact with the blank. Then slowly lower the tip, keeping the bevel rubbing, until it starts to cut. So, the end of the handle should be lower than the tool rest with the tool pointing slightly upwards when cutting.

(Of course, my guess could easily be wrong. :D)

Scrapers are different and only the cutting edge touches the blank, with the end of the handle higher than the tool rest and the tool pointing downwards when cutting. But a scraper's bevel is at a much larger angle, generally closer to 70-80° than a gouge's 45°.

Here's (http://www.woodturnersofolympia.org/uploads/1/0/8/4/10843369/guide_for_grinding_angles.pdf) a fair guide to desired angles per tool types. This is a guide, not gospel: most turners adjust 'em to suit themselves.

hughie
7th November 2018, 12:30 PM
Hmm, I reckon stick with the pine. When you have mastered the pine two things will have occurred
[1] you will have a better knowledge than most on how to sharpen, whats a good angle for you and when to sharpen
[2] You will have developed skills and knowledge of woodturning that will stay with you for life

In other words, you will be a damn good turner.:U Pine is disliked by most turners as its soft and prone to tear out, demands good technique and razor-sharp tools.

crowie
7th November 2018, 03:13 PM
G'Day Brent, "PM" sent with the contact details of a local Melbourne Master Woodturning [top bloke] along with his youtube channel details, Cheers, crowie

Colin62
7th November 2018, 06:24 PM
G'Day Brent, "PM" sent with the contact details of a local Melbourne Master Woodturning [top bloke] along with his youtube channel details, Cheers, crowie
Might be an idea to put his YouTube channel details here, that might help others who're reading this too, including those of us who've been doing it for a while.


edit:- the apostrophe in who're is quite important...

Paul39
8th November 2018, 02:28 AM
Hmm, I reckon stick with the pine. When you have mastered the pine two things will have occurred
[1] you will have a better knowledge than most on how to sharpen, whats a good angle for you and when to sharpen
[2] You will have developed skills and knowledge of woodturning that will stay with you for life

In other words, you will be a damn good turner.:U Pine is disliked by most turners as its soft and prone to tear out, demands good technique and razor-sharp tools.

This is very true, but may cause a beginner to give up prematurely because of discouragement. I started with bowls on a 7 X 12 inch Chinese metal lathe, with a sharpened screwdriver and bench chisel. Several lathes and many tools later I was having difficulties with the Accursed Skew. With the encouragement of Retired and 20 hours in front of the lathe with the skew, I now make a tool handle for entertainment, out of everything from 100 year old Black Locust fence posts to Southern Yellow Pine.

The secret seems to be about 20 hours in front of the lathe, 1 - 2 hours at a time. Assuming some instruction so you are using proper technique.

dimithri
8th November 2018, 08:46 AM
Be VERY CAREFUL of treated pine.

Im not sure what precautions you need, but its nasty stuff, especially if you are inhale, or the dust is going in your eyes.

And make sure you wash your hands afterwards.

I would go so far as to say, its probably better not to use treated pine. Turning it releases all sort of nasties for example Copper, Chromium and Arsenic treatment.

hughie
9th November 2018, 09:07 AM
This is very true, but may cause a beginner to give up prematurely because of discouragement. I started with bowls on a 7 X 12 inch Chinese metal lathe, with a sharpened screwdriver and bench chisel. Several lathes and many tools later I was having difficulties with the Accursed Skew. With the encouragement of Retired and 20 hours in front of the lathe with the skew, I now make a tool handle for entertainment, out of everything from 100 year old Black Locust fence posts to Southern Yellow Pine.

The secret seems to be about 20 hours in front of the lathe, 1 - 2 hours at a time. Assuming some instruction so you are using proper technique.

So very true Paul its about experience guided by wisdom. Experience of time spent and the wisdom of an experienced turner.

Pat
9th November 2018, 10:28 AM
Here's a quick and dirty bowl, from Pinus Crapiartis.445415 445416
If you look closely, there is tear out near the center. All pines can be interesting to get a good finish off the tools

My wife wanted a couple of bowls for an art experiment.

Brena-450
9th November 2018, 11:23 AM
Thanks everyone I have changed wood to some Oregon so still pine but it’s not treated and have adjusted my angle and it’s cutting much better now still needs some sharpening though cheers.


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Paul39
10th November 2018, 12:07 PM
Thanks everyone I have changed wood to some Oregon so still pine but it’s not treated and have adjusted my angle and it’s cutting much better now still needs some sharpening though cheers.


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You can sharpen your skew on a piece of 180 or 220 grit sandpaper on the bed of your lathe or anything smooth and flat. Also works with spindle gouges but is a bit more difficult pulling the gouge away while rotating to get the whole edge.

You must learn to sharpen in order to turn. Slicing off works better than ripping off with a dull tool.

Treecycle
2nd February 2019, 04:41 PM
Might be an idea to put his YouTube channel details here, that might help others who're reading this too, including those of us who've been doing it for a while.


edit:- the apostrophe in who're is quite important...
Here (https://www.youtube.com/user/Ozwoodturner1/videos) is the channel with videos