Leg Fixing Method Advice Please.. :)

[gadget7783]

Hi all,

So I'm building a coffee table at the moment from laminated 60mm thick messmate, and the legs requested by the client are an unusual design, once again built from laminated messmate, 40mm thick (see image)

The catch is that the client would like to have the legs removable which eliminated the option of dowels. My second thought was to use 75x6 flat bar fixed to the top of the leg and then fix that to the table so it's as easy as removing the screws to take the legs off.

Can anyone see a problem with this method, or perhaps suggest something more suitable? also just curious about thoughts in regards to not having a cross brace or support?

Cheers!!

[BobL]

Welcome to the forums.

Instead of flat bar why not use a piece of messmate?

You could also use unglued dowels and Z- clips as they would not be visible unless one got down on the floor although they might not work quite so well with the direction of the grain.

BTW I'm not convinced that design would be that stable eg if anyone was to sit on any edge of the top I'd be worried it would tip. I'd be moving the outside bottom of the legs a bit closer to the corners.

[gadget7783]

Cheers for the suggestion Bob.

Unsure what you mean by the z clips though. Could you explain?

[aldav]

I copied the method used by DerekCohen in this thread - http://www.woodworkforums.com/f187/coffee-table-223508 - to make a children's table. Worked brilliantly for me. You may be able to adapt this method to your build.

[BobL]

Cheers for the suggestion Bob.

Unsure what you mean by the z clips though. Could you explain?

https://www.timbecon.com.au/cabinet-fittings/fasteners-assembly-hardware/table-clip-z-type

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

A different tack... metal 'dowels.'

Basically make up 8 rods (let's guesstimate 1/2" x 4") and weld one end of each to the middle of a metal plate. (let's say 3"x3")

Make up the top as two 30mm thick slabs. mark the leg positions on one and drill holes in suitable positions for the rods to pass through into the tops of the legs. Rebate the plates so they sit flush - I'd keep the plates square to the top, not the legs - and screws through the plates could be added if the need was felt.

Glue the upper slab to the lower, covering the plates and finish the top assembly.

Drill the tops of the legs so they slip over the rods, it wouldn't take much to work out a suitable locking mechanism. (knock-through pins, grub-screws, whatever.)

Should minimise the potential for racking, anyway.