Repeat Sizing tool

[auscab]

I'm interested to know any thoughts on what you think is the best way to repetitively size a turning end for a joint when its got to be dead on every time .

Like when your doing post and rung style Chairs, Stools, or ladder .
The end of your work has to fit a drill hole squeaky tight every time .

Creeping up on the size with a chisel and measuring gauge is a bit slow and hit and miss when you have a lot to do.

Ive got an old wood turning adjustable chisel and gauge sort of tool designed for this but its not so good.

And Ive seen some ground or cut steel, with a range of sizes per tool, slip over the end of the work and run back and forth type tool . Looks a bit like a comb with the gaps that match drill sizes used in such woodwork construction. Have not tried one yet .



Rob

[chambezio]

That is what I would do. A piece of 3mm flat steel (Mild steel will work) Drill into it the diameter you want then cut back to the edge giving you a slotted hole that is ready to slide onto the spindle in question. I wouldn't use more that one slot per piece of flat steel because you may use the wrong size unless you could "blank" the others not being used

[artful bodger]

Those things used to be available, they were called a "pin gauge".

[smiife]

Hi auscab , how about using an open ended spanner of the correct size!

[powderpost]

Here is your answer...

https://www.cwsonline.com.au/shop/item/robert-sorby-970-sizing-tool

Jim

[auscab]

That is what I would do. A piece of 3mm flat steel (Mild steel will work) Drill into it the diameter you want then cut back to the edge giving you a slotted hole that is ready to slide onto the spindle in question. I wouldn't use more that one slot per piece of flat steel because you may use the wrong size unless you could "blank" the others not being used


Thanks Rod . I may have to give that another try . I did it once but it was a bit rushed and didn't go so well .

This is the similar thing that could be bought.

https://www.turnersmate.com/

I like the idea of cutting my own first before buying more stuff atm .

[auscab]

Those things used to be available, they were called a "pin gauge".



Thanks for the lead on the name artful. Gives me something to search out .

[auscab]

Hi auscab , how about using an open ended spanner of the correct size!



Could work with a bit of sharpening smiife :)

The right adjustable wrench or shifter re ground may be a way ??

[auscab]

Here is your answer...

https://www.cwsonline.com.au/shop/item/robert-sorby-970-sizing-tool

Jim

Thanks Jim
That's a bit like my my older one . It shows where my one is lacking I think
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The red arrow points to the bit that rubs . With my one its so thin it itself cuts into the wood with any pressure .That means it just doesn't work .

Ill have to try and widen that section to match the cutter width Id say . More like the one in your link . Then give it another go .

[Fumbler]

Hi auscab , how about using an open ended spanner of the correct size!

+1 for this, and just put an edge on one side, instant tenon cutter, obviously the better quality the spanner, the better the edge will keep (in theory)

[Fumbler]

Could work with a bit of sharpening smiife :)

The right adjustable wrench or shifter re ground may be a way ??

I wouldn't use a shifter as it will do exactly that, shift. No more same size. Unless it's lockable.

[mick661]

Open ended spanner is the easiest. Go a mm over then test or use skew.
Cheers mick

[Nubsnstubs]

How about setting up your tool rest parrallell and centered to your tail stock and head stock centers. Center your blanks also. Add a stop collar onto your tool. Turn until you hit the collar. Adjust until you get the size needed. After you establish, then turn it until you reach the length of the end size you want. If your part is longer than your tool rest, turn the part around and do the other end. Set aside and turn all pieces until you have all ends done. Remove the collar and finish turn the spindles like you would normally do it. I suppose if you had extra money, you could get yourself a duplicater. ............... Jerry (in Tucson)USA

[clear out]

When I turn up tool handles I leave the brass ferrule over the dead(tailstock) Centre.
Then you have a gauge sitting there as you turn down to size.
Perhaps you could use a similar idea with a hole drilled in some scrap. Al would be ok.
As the gauge is at the very end you creep down til it just goes and then it’s parallel turning.
Another advantage of this captive gauge is you don’t have to search around in the chips and pick up another tool, it’s already in place.
Re the spanner idea the lower (cutting) jaw would have to be ground back shorter than the top by a reasonable amount.
H.

[auscab]

I had just about given up on this tool . Like I said above, the bit that rubs at the back was to thin and cut into the wood . Seeing Jim's link in his post above post made me give it some attention today .
I heated and twisted the end around . Re hammered on the anvil and then re ground it .

Another thing I saw the other day was a guy giving his scraping tool some negative rake . I did that to this blade as well . Gave it a test run , then adjusted twice. Its cutting very nicely now . Works perfectly . Ill either use it to get me dead on, or use it to get me to tight and maybe slightly taper the start of the tenon by hand .

I'm making two skew chisels atm . The round bar type that Ive seen some instagram guys using . The brass ferrule is for one of these two chisels . I just set the sizing tool to the outside and finished the handles at that . They are spending the night on the heater and will be finish turned in the morning and have the rings fitted . So the sizer had its first real job . Its a time saver .

Its may be interesting to see if the comb type is good too . I may try it and compare . It seems there is no other tool though ?

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[chuck1]

I make pin gauges out of 3 to 5mm steel, I also bought a number punch so I know what the sizes are.

If you have a hacksaw, file and verniers they are worth making.

[derekcohen]

Hi Rob

I have used the Sorby sizing tool, which is similar to your own. I think that yours is likely to be better as it has more reference/fence than the Sorby. The Sorby works but one needs to get close-ish to be used. It is better for finishing to a specific size than getting close.

What I find useful to get close is Peter Galbert's caliper. Below is a fairly recent photo (my old lathe now replaced :) ). You can see the caliper tool below the leg being turned to size ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/CoffeeTableForJamie_html_6f608ad1.jpg

LN sell them locally: https://www.lie-nielsen.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=35_415&product_id=1618

Here is Peter demoing the caliper (he is a super nice guy, world class chairmaker, and email him if you need info) ...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrPLNphrBH4

Regards from Perth

Derek

[dogcatcher]

Search "lathe semaphore jig" and look at the images on Google. It is jig with a series of arms that fall when you reach the desired/diameter. I used one and cut my tenon a little big, so that sanding would get me to the final diameter.

[dogcatcher]

. Here you fool proof, even I can do it.
https://books.google.com/books?id=J-hQMCWFuPUC&pg=PA91&lpg=PA91&dq=semaphore+for+lathe&source=bl&ots=WYcHYSCMg2&sig=mPTXsk42wTVWzxKTXuKWrnbbFa0&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CB4Q6AEwAGoVChMIhIrhi7DwxwIVj1ySCh20tQQy#v=onepage&q=semaphore%20for%20lathe&f=false (https://books.google.com/books?id=J-hQMCWFuPUC&pg=PA91&lpg=PA91&dq=semaphore+for+lathe&source=bl&ots=WYcHYSCMg2&sig=mPTXsk42wTVWzxKTXuKWrnbbFa0&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CB4Q6AEwAGoVChMIhIrhi7DwxwIVj1ySCh20tQQy#v=onepage&q=semaphore%20for%20lathe&f=false)

[auscab]

When I turn up tool handles I leave the brass ferrule over the dead(tailstock) Centre.


Tried that one the other day Henry . It was at the Headstock end . Used my now working sizing tool but having the ferrule there to test slip on is a good idea . Thanks .

[auscab]

Been some great replies here since I last looked gents . Thanks

[auscab]

I make pin gauges out of 3 to 5mm steel, I also bought a number punch so I know what the sizes are.

If you have a hacksaw, file and verniers they are worth making.



Great Chuck . That I have to try . It seems the tool I have and that Pin Gauge may be the only two ways .

[auscab]

Hi Rob

I have used the Sorby sizing tool, which is similar to your own. I think that yours is likely to be better as it has more reference/fence than the Sorby. The Sorby works but one needs to get close-ish to be used. It is better for finishing to a specific size than getting close.

What I find useful to get close is Peter Galbert's caliper.

Thanks Derek . Yes my, one because of the sweep of that fence can shave down from a larger size . It works well like that . I hadn't thought of that with the Sorby . Good point !

That Galbert's Caliper is a new wiz of a thing ! Never seen one . It would be a good thing for the way its shown to work . All that mid spindle sizing needed sometimes.

[auscab]

Search "lathe semaphore jig" and look at the images on Google. It is jig with a series of arms that fall when you reach the desired/diameter. I used one and cut my tenon a little big, so that sanding would get me to the final diameter.



Thanks dogcatcher. Now I know what that thing is called .
I follow a couple of pro wood turners on instagram . Their posts are real good value .
Watching the skew work they do is something else !
One of those guys uses a steel jig like that all the time . Id wondered about it a few times .
Like "What is it called ?" Now I know I"ll be able to follow that up .

Rob