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NeilS
8th October 2019, 01:17 PM
Higher grit CBN grinding wheels, like #360 and #600, are becoming more available and the price on them has come down on them so that they are now comparable with the lower grit wheels like the #180.

So, if the price is not a factor now between the higher and lower grit wheels, what (if any) is the benefit of going one way or the other?

I have had a #180 CBN grinding wheel for a while now and recently purchased a #360 8" CBN wheel. I decided I needed an extra wheel so that I could have dedicated settings for my various grinds and thought I would give the #360 a try to see if it provided any additional benefits.

My #180 has performed well and has settled down to a less aggressive grind after some use. A #600 wheel seemed to be too much of a step up from that, so I settled on the #360.

My #120 diamond wheel continues to give me good service. It has a resin bonded matrix and despite the coarser grit rating it gives what seems to be a finer grit finish on the tool than the #180 CBN. I think the diamond wheels are underrated and too much credence has been given to the myths, or at least exaggerations, about the iron in the tools eating up the diamond. But, I decided to go with another CBN wheel so that I could compare apples with apples.

Straight off the #180 and #360 wheels, the bevel grinds on the tools are indistinguishable. The following are two Ellsworth gouges (same steel, etc) with the bottom off the #180 and the top off the #360 wheel.


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But, what about the finish off these two grinds. The piece was some soft pine with an end grain knot.


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As you an see, the finish off these two gouges after being freshly ground was also indistinguishable.

So, no advantage there.

Next was an endurance test. How long would each grind hold its edge before the curly shavings stopped coming off the edge and only produce dust particles. This is far beyond where I would go with normal turning, but a measurable point of some sort.

The average result was 7mins 15secs off the #180 wheel and 8mins 30secs off #360 wheel on very old and hard red gum. Not an earth shattering difference and in the hands of someone else the result might be different.

My impression was that the gouge off the #180 wheel cut more aggressively to begin with then dropped away sooner. The gouge off the #360 wheel was more even from beginning to end, but did a bit more work (removed more wood, but I didn't measure/weigh that) overall by the time it stopped cutting. Going back to the grinder immediately the edge performance dropped away might change the analysis, but would be more subjective.

On the above results, I didn't find a significant benefit from the #360 over the #180 wheel.

Other factors, like how quickly a #180 would sharpen a tool over a #360, might become obvious once both wheels are fully broken in. The #360 is still grinding quite aggressively, as these new CBN wheels do, but it is too soon for me to know if that will become a factor.

Out of interest I took a microscope image of the fresh edges off the two wheels. As you can see, their burrs are quite different and partly explains why I found the #180 cut more aggressively to begin with but then dropped away in performance. The edge off the #360 is quite refined. If turners are refining their edges with a hone on tools like skews, a #360 or #600 wheel may obviate the need for that. The last image shows the resolution of the images measured in 0.5mm increments.


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#180

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#360

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Res 0.5mm increments

Old Croc
8th October 2019, 09:24 PM
Hi Neil, this is a very good thread you have started and it backed up some of my observations over the years. Not sure if everyone has seen it but there is a thread in " Sharpening " down further about CBN wheels for Tormek grinders. Seems like good value, but I am a bit too old now to take advantage of one of them.
Rgds,
Crocy.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
9th October 2019, 12:43 PM
What a timely post! I've recently been considering spending the pennies and grabbing a #360 CBN myself, to replace my AlOx, as it's due for replacement soon(ish.) Considering this post and few other articles I've perused, I may settle on a #240 instead.

As an aside, I wonder how the same test would go if, instead of a piece of pine, you used a piece of Ebony for the test?

Would there be any significant difference in the effort required to polish the resultant surfaces to a mirror finish?

Not that I'm suggesting you try it (what a waste of a good bit of Ebony! :oo: ) but I think that any differences "off the tool" would be more apparent.

rtyuiop
10th October 2019, 07:39 AM
Many thanks for this thread Neil, great idea. Interesting that the finer wheel leaves so much of a nicer edge in your photo but doesn't make much difference in cutting!

Might be interesting trying a similar test while sheer scraping or with a skew?

NeilS
10th October 2019, 01:31 PM
I wonder how the same test would go if, instead of a piece of pine, you used a piece of Ebony for the test?

Would there be any significant difference in the effort required to polish the resultant surfaces to a mirror finish?

Not that I'm suggesting you try it (what a waste of a good bit of Ebony! :oo: ) but I think that any differences "off the tool" would be more apparent.



Perhaps, Skew, but, other than my meagre supply of ebony that is measured in millimeters, you are assuming that I'm capable of getting a finish off the tool that could show up any difference...:-

I used the pine for my finish test as I find that it is more difficult to get a good finish off the tool with soft woods.

Many years ago I experimented with bringing the finish off the tool to the point where I could skip any sanding and go straight to applying the finish. Quite a challenge with bowls. I did it for a while but it actually took longer to do it that way. I found getting a near perfect finish off the tool took me too long. So, I returned to sanding before applying a finish.

The best I can do is have a look at the finish on the very old hard red gum pieces that I used for the endurance test to see if there was any obvious difference between the two wheel grits. I'll check that out the next time I'm around at my workshop.

NeilS
12th October 2019, 02:07 PM
The best I can do is have a look at the finish on the very old hard red gum pieces that I used for the endurance test to see if there was any obvious difference between the two wheel grits. I'll check that out the next time I'm around at my workshop.



OK, did that and there was no difference, as far as I could see, between the two grits in the finish off the tool on the piece of old hard Redgum that I had used for the endurance test.

Here is a close up of the two test strips of about 1" wide that were given a finishing cut after a fresh grind on the two wheel grits. I chose the end grain area for the photo as that is the area that I find is more likely to show up any differences.


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So, if I was only able to buy one CBN wheel, I would probably go with Skew's thinking and get a #240 as the sweet spot between speed of metal removal, edge retention and finish off the tool.

Nobody outside of heavy industrial use has reported that they have completely worn out an electroplated CBN wheel. We (predominantly hobbyist) turners are very unlikely to do so. They say that old CBN wheels don't die, they just get slower (I empathise with that) but that they also drift towards being a finer grit (I aspire to that)...:roll:

So, with a #240 wheel you will eventually have a #360 wheel, anyway...:U

As that will take a very long time for most of us, we might be able to afford to buy another CBN wheel by then and go for a fresh #240 or #180 if we feel the need for faster sharpening or tool re-profiling.

As always...

dextadog
12th October 2019, 02:58 PM
Thanks for your thoughts. I have been thinking of a cbn for consistent edge so I will try for the 240. I will keep
the 8inch alox for rough reshaping if needed. Regards

BobL
12th October 2019, 03:15 PM
Thanks for the review Neil - v very in treating.

They say that old CBN wheels don't die, they just get slower (I empathise with that) but that they also drift towards being a finer grit (I aspire to that)...:roll:
So, with a #240 wheel you will eventually have a #360 wheel, anyway...:U


My 180g CBN wheel is almost 5 years old and is currently removing tool steel a lot slower than it did when it was new.
Some of this may be due to the fact that I have used it to sharpened a lot of Crobalt (a 50% chromium plus tungsten and tungsten carbides) bits for my MW lathe.
Crobalt is expensive and slightly softer than HSS but is a lot tougher so holds it edge better under extreme conditions. eg turning harder and stainless steels.
A down side is that it also more brittle than HSS so needs a bit more TLC - it doesn't like shocks for example turning an object with missing g segments so that it goes tic-tic-tic-tic when cutting.
I've been thinking about it and given my current 180g is probably well past a 240g, when I buy another CBN wheel it will be another 180.