Seal but not change the look of the wood

[Dannormal]

I have just made an industrial, grunge, rough-call it what you like double bed from old Scungy timber for my 19 year old son. Whe I say rough I mean rough. It has some bits of paint in some places and the timber is raw, sun damaged, aged, flaky and a bit crumbly. That’s how It is meant to be pretty much. What I want to do is seal it somehow so that the wood dust and little bits won’t keep dropping and staining the bed sheets. Of course I will have to clean up the timber to some degree with a wire brush I guess but my question is what can I use to seal the wood without losing that “bare” rough look. I am thinking maybe a product sprayed out of a can? I definitely do not want to see a coating when it is dried as that will spoil the effect I have created. Any advise on products or any advise generally on this project
Thanks

[Blackforester]

You could try and just wax it. Try in an inconspicuous spot first.

[Dannormal]

You could try and just wax it. Try in an inconspicuous spot first.
There are fissures, rough ends etc, parts where the wood can’t be “polished” how would I get wax into those areas. Wouldn’t I have to use a polishing rag or the like.

[orraloon]

Wax is not an option on rough wood as it builds up in all the small hollows. I dont think there is a method that will not change the look at least a little bit. I think the original idea of clear spray will be the closest to what you want. As always try it on a bit of scrap wood first to see how it goes.
Regards
John

[Paul39]

I have used my usual finish, Tung Oil, on vases made from weathered fence posts. I brush it on and work into cracks and crevices with the brush. It darkens the weathered gray a little. Tung oil is a component of varnish so it is quite durable. Clear spray will also work, but will also darken the weathered part.

[Blackforester]

One way to apply wax to rough surfaces like carvings for instance is to using a small stiff brush (tooth brush) and a hair dryer. This melts the wax into the crevices. Afterwoods polish with a large stiff brush.

[Dannormal]

Thanks for the ideas, I am still not sure what product to buy in a spray can though. I will go to the local Bunnings store and start reading cans. I will give an update on the job and perhaps a pic or 2 as well. Thanks for your advice fellas.

[Chesand]

If you have a specialist paint store nearby, I would go and rack their brains as they shouldl have more knowledge than those at the BGS. If you take some offcuts with you they will possibly do some sample finishes for you

[BobL]

It depends on the wood but many exposed/raw woods will darken by applying most finishing products. Some like old chocolate jarrah will go almost black so make sure you try any product out elsewhere before you apply.
What I have found to be the least darkening is wax and I've also done what Blackforester has done with a hot air gun and stuff brushes but it will eventually pick up dust and dirt in cracks and will be harder to remove by vacuuming.
The more I Think about it the more a "mat finish polyurethane spray" or similar sounds like it might work. It might stick darken any freshly exposed timber but otherwise it should not be noticeable on everything else.Grey or weathered wood surfaces should not be as readily affected.

[skeghead]

I used this furniture oil on this surfboard model made from a bit of scrap pine from a pallet. I originally bought it (bunnings) for an outdoor job, but can be used interior also. Seems OK. before and after pics

Bondall Monocel Furniture Oil (https://www.bondall.com/monocel-home/furniture-oil/) 467882467883

[brainstrust]

Dannormal can you share a piccy?

[Cliff Rogers]

I'd try some Water Based Matt Clear Polyurethane .

[Dannormal]

Here is completed project. I apologise for the sideways photos. They are vertical on my computer but upload sideways. I searched the forums for a solution but found nothing.
The original bed frame holding the mattress is of light timber so I used Tung oil on it and it darkened enough for my purposes. I tried a few things as suggested on offcuts and eventually used the product shown on the ends. It sprayed on very lightly. This was great because I could control the look and seal very well. I did some light sanding to remove as little of the raw look as possible. (Might get a few splinters, but hey he's young and tough). Not really, I sanded the edges off to get rid of nasty bits. I inserted 2 pennies I had lying around in the shed and a commemorative 50 cent piece which is the year of my 19 yr old sons birthday. He loves the look of the bed. I enjoyed doing something different and got rid of some wood that could just as easily end up as firewood.
Thanks for all the help, much appreciated fellahs.
468227468229468230468232468231

[springwater]

Looks great Dannormal! I like the way you build, not sure about the paint job on the slat ends though :rolleyes: but it seems to work in well anyway. Have you tried a wire (I like brass) rotary wheel in a small angle grinder to clean up such wood? I've found sand paper clogs up the interesting bits too much whereas the wire wheel burnishes them, sort of.

I've found out that if you rotate your pics 360 degrees in 90 degree increments and save your pics again the orientation sticks through whatever happens to pictures when you upload them on this forum???

[Tonyz]

dang that looks great, really rustic bogan feel, as long as it stands up to his ' antics ' all is good.

pic 5 .... that bolt head
is it rally old or been 'weathered? if so how?
is it doing anything useful or just looking the part

[Robson Valley]

Must have to saw up a lot of furniture to make a good bed like that one.

Instead of sandpaper, use very coarse steel wool.
The strands are flat so they cut like a thousand chisels without disturbing the finish.

[Dannormal]

Thanks for the compliment and checking out my work. I really appreciate it.
Yes I did use a wire buff wheel and I also found it helped keep the sharp look. Also a wire brush. It really was wood I had in my shed and I had no plans. I started with the painted wood ends, made them, then realised I did’nt quite have enough of the same timber for the bed head end so started winging it. The 2 ends are not quite complementary, particularly in the photos but with a mattress and doona on the frame and in normal light the bed looks pretty good.
cheers

[Dannormal]

Hi Tonyz
that round headed bolt was in the wood. That post is from timber about 70 years old minimum. All rusted and aged for me, didn’t do a thing. Right next to it is a very gnarly heavy coach screw that protruded out the top of the post. I had to grind each end smooth. Bit of skin tearer and tetanus risk otherwise.
I think the bed will stand up to a young fellas “antics” but you never know. Next bed might be all steel💥💓
cheers and thanks so much for your kind words and taking the time.