attaching timber partition wall

[tomohawk]

Hi!

I hope someone will be able to help me.

I want to make a partition wall with hardwood timber.

not sure how to go about attaching them to the floor and ceiling, I want to have a gap free connection.

here is a photo to see what I mean, this is no hardwood but just to get the idea.468189

[tomohawk]

468197this is the image

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

That's not as simple as it looks. :no:

I think the most practical 'after market' method would be pairs of locating dowels in the floor, with matching pairs of 'sprung pins' in the ceiling. Installation would involve sitting the bottom of the board onto the floor dowels, sliding the top to butt against the sides of the sprung pins and then lifting those pins with a trowel or similar until the top slides into position and the pins drop down to lock the board in place.

Mind you, accuracy is everything with this sort of job and not just in marking out and positioning the dowels/pins.

You'd have to measure and cut each and every board to fit it's own spot, as house frames are very, very rarely built with cabinetmakers precision. More likely you'll have ±5mm variation, possibly more.

Another consideration is if someone leans against a board and bows it, so it 'shortens' and pops out of the dowel/pins. Sprung pins would allow a quick re-install, but that's still a PITA. Longer dowels/pins mean the board would need to be bent even further before it'd pop off, but the downside to that is it'd be more difficult to install in the first place.

Also, sourcing suitable sprung pins may be a headache.

Personally I'd prefer to build that sort of wall during basic house construction, screwing the tops of the board into a rafter or similar structure then plaster the ceilings afterwards... Fiddly, but more permanent.

However I doubt that's an option for you in this case.

[russ57]

Can you access the ceiling cavity above?
If so, perhaps a board / beam across the top, with holes drilled through and into each post below then insert a dowel, or even a long bolt.

[BobL]

What is the cross sectional dimensions of the timber you plan to use?

If it's thick enough then T-pieces made of 3mm steel or Al plate could be used, with pairs of these screwed to the floor and ceiling. Slots cut into the ends of each board would then allow the boards to be slid into place and fixed with a CS screw.

The T-pieces could be powder coated to close to or the exact same colour at the timber, or (not my preferred option) if you wanted too retain a wood look could even be vinyl wrapped in some sort of timber look grain. Either way they would not be very visible but would require precision manufacture.

If the boards are too thin but will be painted then C-channel can be used and a small rebate on each side to allow the timber to sit flush to the channel could look quite good.

If the ceiling is just plaster the T OR C will need reinforcing from above.

As Skewy says, a lot of work !

[rwbuild]

BULK PACK OF 30 x UNIVERSAL DO03 SPRING LOADED SLIDING DOOR LOCATING SPRUNG PINS | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BULK-PACK-OF-30-x-UNIVERSAL-DO03-SPRING-LOADED-SLIDING-DOOR-LOCATING-SPRUNG-PINS/143376686012?hash=item2161ea9bbc:g:JGoAAOSwu4BV1yec)

[Bstrom]

Is this a permanent or temporary partition? Is stability important - will it bear further loads? Can you mount framing behind it to fasten to? Moulding/trim is pretty for finishing edges, especially if you have a wavy gap to close up visually.

[russ57]

The original poster hasn't been seen since (or before for that matter) the original post in February.