Forstner bits

[brainstrust]

Can anyone recommend a decent set of Forstner bits that covers the bigger sizes, 30mm at least but more around 40 50 60 70?

[smiife]

Hi BT , I think I got mine from carbatec , but not a set as such just bought them singularly
Hope this helps :2tsup:

[turnerted]

I have bought ones about those sizes from Mcjings .
Ted

[aldav]

McJing stock a good range - McJING Online Tools Products Search (https://mcjing.com.au/searchresult.aspx?keyword=forstner%20bit) There was some discussion on here a few months ago and there seemed to be general agreement that carbide tipped bits are good, McJing have them up to 80mm diameter. They get a bit exxy in the larger sizes.

[RossM]

Colt Maxicut or Famag Bormax are the bees knees. You will need to order from overseas as I don't think anyone is distributing in Oz. However its well worth it for quality of cut & longevity of the bits.


https://youtu.be/1BU-he0gcsI
https://youtu.be/t0YymZNAUBk

[brainstrust]

does anyone have an opinion on the sawtooth ones?

[Mobyturns]

Colt Maxicut or Famag Bormax are the bees knees. You will need to order from overseas as I don't think anyone is distributing in Oz. However its well worth it for quality of cut & longevity of the bits.



FAMAG are available in Oz from Studio Dubeld in Townsville. Pricey but good! https://dubbeldwoodtools.com/product-category/drilling/forstner-bits/metric-forstner/

[bruceward51]

Think carefully about what sort of work you want to do. The cheaper sets from Carbatec for example are not that good if you move away from softer woods and cross grain work. I have read that sawtooth bits are better in end grain and the carbide bits I had from a now defunct woodturner are also great in end grain but not as clean a cut in softer side grain.

Rule of thumb - buy as good as you can afford.

[brainstrust]

FAMAG are available in Oz from Studio Dubeld in Townsville. Pricey but good! https://dubbeldwoodtools.com/product-category/drilling/forstner-bits/metric-forstner/

That 40 50 60 mm set would be just the thing but wow in price!!!

[aarggh]

I've been using a sawtooth set for many years now, and have never been really happy as they blunt and burn the wood really easy, and always had to constantly touch them up which I just found to be a pain.

I recently got some carbide tipped ones from CarbiTool that cut through Blackbutt like a hot knife in butter, prices were very low and the shipping was free.

The only downside with the CarbiTool ones is they come with a reduced small hex shank, I'd far prefer if they were 1/2" shank instead.

I also just got some big beasties from McJing for Fathers Day, including an 80mm one for clock inserts, holy cow what a monster, nice thick 160mm long shank, cuts like a dream in hardwood! Well worth the money I reckon!

Lets Make Time in QLD also have short shank carbide forstners very cheap:

Let's Make Time - Drill Bit 80mmTungsten (https://www.letsmaketime.com.au/shop/item/drill-bit-80mmtungsten/woodwork-supplies)

[derekcohen]

I have Colt forstners, which is excellent. On a different tack, have you considered a hole saw? I purchased a Lenox bimetal set from Bunnings on the weekend, and they are terrific. May be a lot cheaper in the 70mm size.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[aarggh]

I have Colt forstners, which is excellent. On a different tack, have you considered a hole saw? I purchased a Lenox bimetal set from Bunnings on the weekend, and they are terrific. May be a lot cheaper in the 70mm size.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I've got a couple of good bi-metal holesaw kits, and they are great, but they don't leave as clean a hole as I'd like, although that was likely the crappy drill presses I had prior.

Most of the holes I need to do are blind holes anyway so the carbide forstners are just perfect for me now. I'll never be using HSS forstners again now.

Now I finally have a decent drill press that doesn't wander or have the chuck fall out I can get perfectly clean and straight holes.

cheers, Ian

[BobL]

does anyone have an opinion on the sawtooth ones?

My saw toothed Forstener set is from CT and have had it for almost 15 years. The main thing I drill with them is Al and have not touched them up yet although the 19 and 25 mm sizes could probably do with it.

To more easily drill larger sizes (>32) I sometimes drill relieving holes inside the area being removed as shown below.
This makes a big difference in sawdust removal, and if your DP is underpowered or you are using a hand held drill.
I do the same with hole saws - in this case the relief holes have to just touch the side of the circle being cut by the saw.

480464
A is for holes withe either a Forstner or hole saw , B is for hole saws when you want to keep the inside circle as one piece .
Even a single 1/4" relief hole makes a big difference with hole saws.
I find 2 x 1/4" relief holes results in not needing to withdraw the saw from the hole to clear sawdust.

[brainstrust]

Would that be the same as starting small and going up in sizes till the hole is the size you want?

[BobL]

Would that be the same as starting small and going up in sizes till the hole is the size you want?

You can't really do that with Forstners - well you can if they're used in a metal mill that can hold the work super steady.

[Mobyturns]

My saw toothed Forstener set is from CT and have had it for almost 15 years. The main thing I drill with them is Al and have not touched them up yet although the 19 and 25 mm sizes could probably do with it.

To more easily drill larger sizes (>32) I sometimes drill relieving holes inside the area being removed as shown below.
This makes a big difference in sawdust removal, and if your DP is underpowered or you are using a hand held drill.
I do the same with hole saws - in this case the relief holes have to just touch the side of the circle being cut by the saw.

480464
A is for holes withe either a Forstner or hole saw , B is for hole saws when you want to keep the inside circle as one piece .
Even a single 1/4" relief hole makes a big difference with hole saws.
I find 2 x 1/4" relief holes results in not needing to withdraw the saw from the hole to clear sawdust.

Another tip if you are using a hole saw to cut wheels set the hole, saw center so that it exits the side of the board but still cuts a circular wheel - similar idea to Bob's example B. This allows the sawdust to exit the slot which means it cuts cleaner, cooler and requires less clearing. Most users do not clear a holesaw often enough which leads to overheating / burning.

[Brenton Stein]

One thing that has been overlooked so far in this thread is the ease of sharpening any drill bit including Forstners. I have TC Forstners, HSS and then the generic, cheap, carbon steel, Carbatec style set, which I use the most. All drill bits lose their edge eventually including TC, especially when drilling hardwoods and even more so when drilling into end grain of hardwoods. The ability to sharpen them myself is a huge advantage, which I can do with the cheap carbon steel bits with a file. It's a lot simpler to do than you might think and once done they perform just as well as the more expensive TC and HSS bits, if not better. The HSS and TC bits tend to gather dust once they are blunt until I have enough to take in to get sharpened by the professionals. So, for most hobby woodworkers I would recommend the cheaper carbon steel bits as a good starting point.

[aarggh]

I've never understood the misconception that carbide can't be sharpened held by a lot of people, carbide sharpens and grinds as easily as HSS with the right wheel\abrasive. Nothing at all difficult about it.

cheers, Ian

[markharrison]

I recently bought a set of the Chinese carbide Forstner bits from a local Ebay seller. Sizes are 15 through 65 in 1mm increments in the lower sizes. I paid less than $60 delivered.

I hemmed and hawed about keeping them as a significant number of them have an eccentric centre point. However, with the drill press dialled down in the low hundreds in speed, it is controllable. You just can't clamp down the work piece. The seller was willing to take them back so I don't have any problems with the transaction or the seller. I was the one that bailed on returning them.

Still; for the money paid, they are acceptable. I will replace individual items if I need to down the track.

The good part is that they cut beautifully even in quite hard woods I've tried.

[Woodturnerjosh]

I use the tungsten tipped ones from Timbecon both in my own workshop and at the University workshop where I work.
My own ones have done a heap of work in hard timbers and when they start to dull they can be easily sharpened with a diamond hone.
They work best at much higher speeds than you would use a regular forstner bit.