The Incra Router Fence Range

[Gwhat]

Good Ole Sir Stinkatlot asked for a run down on the differences between the various models in the Incra range.........so here goes...........

There are now 3 basic units, UltraLite - Ultra - LS Positioner.

The first 2 use Incra's initial 'Rack' positioning system, (2 interlocking saw toothed blocks that can only be locked in INCRAmental positions). The LS Positioner uses a Lead Screw that also has a rack locking onto it in INCRAmental positions. This also allows for speedy set-up and fine-tuning.

Apart from the basis of the positioner, the other variables are range (work piece width capacity) the UltraLite is 12 1/2", the Ultra 16" or 24" and the LS 17" or 25" and accessories the Ultra can come with a complete joinery package hat includes templates etc. whilst the LS 17" & 25" can come complete with a Wonderfence with integrated dust collection and hi-rise extensions to facilitate vertical panel raising type operations.

What one is right for you??? Give us a call, usually a 10 minute chat resolves the issues and we can suggest the right option.

We also offer the Incra videos on a loan basis, you pay for the video up front, and if you return it we refund the purchase price, this seems to assist customers in understanding how the Incra system works.

I trust this explains the options,

Regards

The Woodpecker
www.woodpeckers.com.au

[Sir Stinkalot]

Thanks The Woodpecker .... when I scrape together some cash I will take up your invitation for a chat.

[underused]

Hello all,

I have a question regarding the LS super system 25".
The templates that come with it, and the 17" are the same size. I was expecting the templates to be 25" for the 25" system and 17" for the 17" system. They are just under 17" for both.

With the 25" system, If I want to make, lets say dovetails on 20" boards, what would be the best way with the templates being under 17"? The only way I can think of, is to turn the boards after each cut (but is prone to mistakes if the board is out of centre by only a fraction).

The other way I can think of, is to slide the template along. This way also can lead to a bad fit.

Can you help me out with this? Its been bugging me since I opened up the box to my new LS Super System 25".
Thanks. Gary.

[Termite]

Yep, while you have the fence locked for you last cut just slide the template so the same colour lines up under your cursor, the racks will keep it accurate. Been there done that.

[Gwhat]

Termites solution is the simplest for general use, 'though if I were doing things that required greater than 16" range frequently, I'd buy a spare set of templates and butt one to another. Alternatively a Quik Draw template, a blank write on strip may give you the extra range that you require. Remember the marks are just references, the Incra racks give the accuracy.

BTW a great looking Router Table Termite!!!!

Regards

The Woodworker

[bsrlee]

'Ere GWhat

Are you lads going to be bringing in the basic 'new' old style all plastic Incra fence that Rockler are advertising? Or do I have to go direct to Rockler, who claim to have an 'exclusive' deal.

[Auld Bassoon]

Yep, while you have the fence locked for you last cut just slide the template so the same colour lines up under your cursor, the racks will keep it accurate. Been there done that.

G'day Mr Termite:)

A Q: for you. I've been considering various of the Incra router fences/attachments/gizmos, but tell me, please, what specific benefits do you obtain from what is a fairly expensive bit of aluminium?

As I make most of my joints the darkside way, I really only have need for a limited range of powered router exercises. So, given that, would you recommend one, and please say why.

Cheers & Thanks!

[Termite]

G'day Mr Termite:)

A Q: for you. I've been considering various of the Incra router fences/attachments/gizmos, but tell me, please, what specific benefits do you obtain from what is a fairly expensive bit of aluminium?

As I make most of my joints the darkside way, I really only have need for a limited range of powered router exercises. So, given that, would you recommend one, and please say why.

Cheers & Thanks!

99% of the work I do on the router table is not joints, and I do use the router table quite a bit.

I originally made my own micro adjustable router fence (passed on to a nephew now) and only used my Incra for joints. When the split fence system became available as an add on I decided to buy it also.

Now a lot of you blokes are going to spew, but I happen to be a fan of the older ornate style of woodworking and the router table table is vital to me, after all I'm not totally on the dark side, more a mid range brown.
With its split fence and off set capabilities I often use it as a mini jointer on the small pieces that would endanger my fingers on my full size jointer. I can't think of all the things I use it for at the moment, but I use it a hell of a lot.

Now a lot of what I use it for can be done with a stick of timber clamped to the tabletop, but I like the speed at which I can set up repeatable cuts accurate to .001" and if you think think thats not important then you obviously don't cry like I do when I ruin a piece of timber worth $9,000.00 a cube.

Is it worth the money, to me it is, I've seen blokes spend the same amount of money on jigs that won't do as much as what my setup will.

Is it worth it to you, only you can decide after thinking what you may use it for, and repeating myself, joints are only one of many things.

PS. All in all counting the Triton router I've got about $1500.00 invested in that table, not counting the roughly $2,000.00 worth of bits to go with it.

[underused]

Thanks for the advice guys. I havent had time to set the system up and try it out yet, but when I do I'll be dovetailing some wide boards. I'll try the sliding template method.
Im not going to buy new templates just yet. I'll wait until I need to order something from woodpeckers again. The shipping fees are killing me.

On the subject of router tables and building a set up. whats in your opinions the best material for a router top? Im guessing most of you are using MDF?
What about kitchen work-top material?
Cheers guys. Gary.

[Auld Bassoon]

Thanks Termite, I appreciate the answers that you've given.

I also sometimes do a little "mini jointing" as it were, but have found that my home-made table/fence arrangement is adequate to that task, as I prefer final finishing with hand-tools, complex profiles, etc excepted.

As I tend to work relatively slowly (WW is a hobby not a business for me), a few minutes in set-up time shaved down a bit isn't worth very much monetarily to me, and as such, I can still achieve quite respectable levels of accuracy. As well, I still get mental images of Gary Rogowski's super-ultra-basic router table (a laminex covered board with a hole in it, and a clamped on board for a fence) - and the minor miracles that he can perform with that.

As to the collection of router bits, yep, they do seem to multiply, and the cumulative value is a bit frightening...

Cheers!

[Termite]

Thanks for the advice guys. I havent had time to set the system up and try it out yet, but when I do I'll be dovetailing some wide boards. I'll try the sliding template method.
Im not going to buy new templates just yet. I'll wait until I need to order something from woodpeckers again. The shipping fees are killing me.

On the subject of router tables and building a set up. whats in your opinions the best material for a router top? Im guessing most of you are using MDF?
What about kitchen work-top material?
Cheers guys. Gary.

Don't know what is available to you in Japan but my benchtop is made out of 32mm MDF custom pressure laminated both sides with satin finish white laminex.

[Gwhat]

'Ere GWhat

Are you lads going to be bringing in the basic 'new' old style all plastic Incra fence that Rockler are advertising? Or do I have to go direct to Rockler, who claim to have an 'exclusive' deal.

Hot off the press from Incra!!!!

The new (original) Incra Jig, will be available to us in early '06 in a Metric version whats more exciting is that they come complete with a 60 minute instructional DVD and a great set of instructions. With a 200mm range this Incra specialty will win the hearts of a lot of Aussies.

As the initial production run was oversold in the US, we will be accepting pre-orders for these units with a mid February delivery date.

What's equally exciting is that at the same time we will have supplies of Metric Scales, both 0 - 430 and 430 -860 mm.

Check it out soon on the web-site.

Regards

The Woodworker

[underused]

Don't know what is available to you in Japan but my benchtop is made out of 32mm MDF custom pressure laminated both sides with satin finish white laminex.

The thickest sheet of MDF I've seen here is 21mm, (not laminated). Im thinking this may not be thick enough? I'm making a large table for the incra 25". I could laminate it, put a frame around it, and across the bottom at intervals to try stop any potential movement. What do you think?
Thanks again. Gary.

[Termite]

The thickest sheet of MDF I've seen here is 21mm, (not laminated). Im thinking this may not be thick enough? I'm making a large table for the incra 25". I could laminate it, put a frame around it, and across the bottom at intervals to try stop any potential movement. What do you think?
Thanks again. Gary.

Not sure, have a chat to Gwhat about his tables.

[underused]

No worries termite, thanks for the input

[Gwhat]

Not sure, have a chat to Gwhat about his tables.

Our Engineered Router Tables are 31mm thick, really a 'ply' made up of MDF & Tempered Masonite. Given your location I'd look at laminating 2 pieces of MDF with Epoxy then putting a wear surface on it possibly melamine, but if available the 3 - 4 mm melamine they use in showers etc would be great, again Epoxy is the way to go, remember to brace and 'balance' the top with a backing the same as the face.

I hope that this helps.

The Woodworker

[Bulwinkle]

Don't know what is available to you in Japan but my benchtop is made out of 32mm MDF custom pressure laminated both sides with satin finish white laminex.

Doing just as you have, 32mm MDF custom with HPL both sides but with gloss finish. Q: how did you go about routing out plate hole and mitre bar channel (presume you have one) or was this done by the custom manufacture? (trying to find ount the best way to avoid chipping of HPL.

Cheers

[Termite]

Doing just as you have, 32mm MDF custom with HPL both sides but with gloss finish. Q: how did you go about routing out plate hole and mitre bar channel (presume you have one) or was this done by the custom manufacture? (trying to find ount the best way to avoid chipping of HPL.

Cheers
With a lot of skill and a sharp router cutter. :D Sharp being the secret. ;)

Tip. Cut out the bulk with a jigsaw and trim the last 10mm with a router.

[Bulwinkle]

As I hoped thanks termite:)

[underused]

Ive found a Japanese company on the net where I can get some 30mm thick MDF, they will also cement Melamine on both the top and bottom surfaces.

Im going to brace the edges and bottom with a simple stud frame. Can anyone tell me how they have braced their tables? My table will be about 81cmx135cm, the same as the big woodpecker one. I would have just bought the woodpecker table, all drilled out for my Incra 25", but I would have needed a loan to pay the shipping cost to Japan.