PDA

View Full Version : Challenge 2020-2021 Sheets



Sheets
11th September 2020, 01:08 AM
I haven't made much out of wood in a while, but I still have all my tools and some wood. So, I'm in.

Great idea btw:2tsup:

Sheets
11th September 2020, 05:36 AM
Starting materials:480588
Japanese style smoothing plane (hira kanna).

Bushmiller
12th September 2020, 02:10 AM
Sheets


Good to see a competitor from overseas. We should have known it would be a JP version.

:)

Regards
Paul

Sheets
12th September 2020, 03:54 AM
Hi Paul. Somehow, over the years, I've accumulated/collected a number of Japanese kanna blades (you know - I'll just buy another one 'cause someday I'm gonna need it. Just like most of the wood I've got stashed). So this competition will allow at least one of my collection to become useable (plus get me back in the shed:U).

Steve

Sheets
14th September 2020, 03:31 AM
Well, having looked at the plans some of you guys have in the works, I feel like I'm taking the easy way out - just having to make a funny shaped hole in a piece of wood :(. I may have to get "complicated" just to compete.

Anyway, no secret now the type of wood I'm using:
480902

Bushmiller
14th September 2020, 08:36 AM
Anyway, no secret now the type of wood I'm using:
480902

Treewood?
Redwood?

:?

Regards
Paul

Sheets
14th September 2020, 09:38 AM
Well, it comes from a tree and it is sort of red, so yes and yes. But, no and no. Perhaps not the best picture rendition, so more will be revealed next time (I feel like I must drag this out longer to maintain some interest from abroad).

Thanks collectively to all of you who have clicked likes for my posts - ditto to you all. This is a much enjoyable endeavour!

Aussiephil
14th September 2020, 09:56 AM
Well, having looked at the plans some of you guys have in the works, I feel like I'm taking the easy way out - just having to make a funny shaped hole in a piece of wood :(. I may have to get "complicated" just to compete.

Anyway, no secret now the type of wood I'm using:
480902

Well i'm going to say even though it may look and sound simple... block of wood and a plane blade ... nothing is simple with the Kanna as i'm learning ....

I was going to be cheeky and say Canadian Redwood :) well it is red but Paul beat me to it.

Redheart looks closer to the revealed colour at least.

Sheets
15th September 2020, 02:14 AM
I realize that although it's obvious to me (since I can see the wood with my very own eyes), cameras and computer monitors can alter what others might see to the point that it's not at all obvious what is the wood in question. So to save you all the unintended guess-work, it's Purpleheart.

Anyway, more progress:
481044481045
And some other details: plane iron is 65mm wide (so about 55mm cutting edge) and set at 45 deg.

I could go faster, but with the competition finish quite a long way off, no need to rush (subject to my usual tool treatment, by the time of judging I don't want it to be rusty and dusty :no:).

Bushmiller
15th September 2020, 08:22 AM
Sheets

That is coming along nicely. Funny how such a simple design can seem so technical, well, clinical really: Perhaps that is why the JP planes work so well. I would never have guessed Purpleheart as I am unfamiliar with it and it is too far off the radar. I probably need to get out more.

Regards
Paul

Sheets
15th September 2020, 08:56 AM
Hi Paul,

I would have thought purpleheart was more universally known, but it doesn't grow that near Australia, so makes sense. I just happen to have some on hand (it really is quite purple when freshly cut, ' tho the pictures I posted have altered it to more of a reddish. But it does weather to brown over time, like the rough cut top surface).

I have made a number of Japanese style planes in the past - which only means that I'm familiar with the process - no guarantee of anything else! I only hope my result is worthy of the efforts of the Japanese blacksmith. Making the blades as some are doing is quite beyond my ability.

Sheets
17th September 2020, 06:32 AM
I'm thinking of incorporating a scale of measurement to make this tool more multi-functional. Imperial scale seems appropriate as it's on the sole and the plane will be stored in a sock when not (never :?) in use.
481142

Simplicity
17th September 2020, 09:38 AM
I'm thinking of incorporating a scale of measurement to make this tool more multi-functional. Imperial scale seems appropriate as it's on the sole and the plane will be stored in a sock when not (never :?) in use.
481142

I definitely think your taking a step in the right direction there,I would suggest a hand quilted sock,
may see more points awarded.

Cheers Matt.

Aussiephil
17th September 2020, 09:46 AM
I'm thinking of incorporating a scale of measurement to make this tool more multi-functional. Imperial scale seems appropriate as it's on the sole and the plane will be stored in a sock when not (never :?) in use.
481142

Now that's also a directional indicator, always but your best foot forward .....

Sheets
17th September 2020, 10:10 AM
:doh: Well somebody started with the puns - I'm just trying to go with the grain.

Moving along - in the groove, so to speak:
481152481153

Sheets
22nd September 2020, 07:53 AM
There's been so much progress by all you other losers - I mean, contestants :D, I'm feeling the pressure. Just to show that I'm not slacking off, even though we still have six months, here are pics of the current stage of work (and hand-planing purpleheart is work as I'm re-discovering :~):
481442 Still have much more work to do on the top surface. I have about 2 extra mm of thickness as-is, which is good as this wood is very prone to tear-out due to it's weird grain. Hopefully my bag of tricks can cope with smoothing it out well enough to impress the Judges :wink:. I also attempted to create the "shelf" (can't remember the Japanese terminology) at the bottom of the dai, where the blade bevel will be. I didn't do so well at it 'cause I don't have the special, little crank-neck chisel (that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it).
481443 I still have a couple of mm to go to get the blade fitted, but will wait until the bottom surface is correctly dressed in case "corrections" require removing more wood than anticipated.
481444 I have drilled/squared the hole for the chip-breaker pin and have the pin ready to go, but I'm hiding it for now, as it is going to be one of my cosmetic embellishments - sure to get me style points.

Simplicity
22nd September 2020, 09:29 AM
There's been so much progress by all you other losers - I mean, contestants :D, I'm feeling the pressure. Just to show that I'm not slacking off, even though we still have six months, here are pics of the current stage of work (and hand-planing purpleheart is work as I'm re-discovering :~):
481442 Still have much more work to do on the top surface. I have about 2 extra mm of thickness as-is, which is good as this wood is very prone to tear-out due to it's weird grain. Hopefully my bag of tricks can cope with smoothing it out well enough to impress the Judges :wink:. I also attempted to create the "shelf" (can't remember the Japanese terminology) at the bottom of the dai, where the blade bevel will be. I didn't do so well at it 'cause I don't have the special, little crank-neck chisel (that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it).
481443 I still have a couple of mm to go to get the blade fitted, but will wait until the bottom surface is correctly dressed in case "corrections" require removing more wood than anticipated.
481444 I have drilled/squared the hole for the chip-breaker pin and have the pin ready to go, but I'm hiding it for now, as it is going to be one of my cosmetic embellishments - sure to get me style points.

Sheets,

That’s looking very good, I don’t know much about Japanese planes, and I don’t want to go there, I’ve heard there bad news for the wallet.
So some of the “terminology” is just Greek to me.

Cheers Matt.

Sheets
22nd September 2020, 10:33 AM
Sheets,

That’s looking very good, I don’t know much about Japanese planes, and I don’t want to go there, I’ve heard there bad news for the wallet.
So some of the “terminology” is just Greek to me.

Cheers Matt.

Hi Matt,

Some Japanese tools do, indeed, command a large (ridiculous) amount of money. Fortunately, there are more affordable options like used tools from eBay (where I got most of mine - chisels, too). I'm not a professional, so mucking about with "lesser" quality is fine for me. With some experience on the buying side, it's relatively easy to pick up very well made tools for much less than "new" pricing. Anyway, price/performance discussion is one of those topics that, once started, never ends - so I'll not say any more.

I'll try to avoid using the Japanese terms and stick to what most people will understand - it would be similar to using English terms with someone who knows little about woodworking - rabbits, dados, frogs, etc. :?.

Btw, bit of a storm coming our way tomorrow, so will likely lose electricity for a while - so may be off-line until they hook it back up. At least my plane will float!

Sheets
24th September 2020, 03:36 AM
Btw, bit of a storm coming our way tomorrow, so will likely lose electricity for a while - so may be off-line until they hook it back up. At least my plane will float!

Happy to report that the storm (hurricane Teddy) missed us by enough to not cause any flooding or power outages. So no extension to the contest deadline nor sympathy from the Judges needed.

Back to the grindstone :2tsup: (one way to reduce tear-out).

Simplicity
24th September 2020, 08:30 AM
Happy to report that the storm (hurricane Teddy) missed us by enough to not cause any flooding or power outages. So no extension to the contest deadline nor sympathy from the Judges needed.

Back to the grindstone :2tsup: (one way to reduce tear-out).

Fantastic news Shests,
That the plane build is safe and yourself,

Cheers Matt.

Sheets
28th September 2020, 05:19 AM
I'm continuing to refine the surfaces - not been easy. I tried to hand-plane (sharp, very fine cut) but suffered some torn grain :oo: anyway. Had to resort to the Makita power planer and scraping to get most of the tear-out. Good thing I had extra thickness to absorb the mess (mostly). Note-to-self: purpleheart is not the best wood for a plane body. It will be fine as a mount for the blade, but may not look too pretty. Anyway, things are salvageable, so will continue with the scraper and try wetting the wood to soften the fibres and hopefully the result will be competitive.
481796481797 So much for my little "shelf" :(. I will tidy up that up with a chisel.
481798This area of he chamfered edge still needs to be widened, so I have room to correct the tear-out.

As an aside, my purpleheart stock is over 40 years old, but still bleeds when cut - not a problem, but curious. Probably one reason it endures out in the weather where its used as timber/lumber.

Mountain Ash
28th September 2020, 08:45 AM
Hi Sheets. The tear out reminds me of plenty of our native species. Where does Purpleheart come from?

Aussiephil
28th September 2020, 09:56 AM
Purpleheart from the wood database Purpleheart | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwood) (https://www.wood-database.com/purpleheart/)

similar numbers to some of the gums over here

Bushmiller
28th September 2020, 12:08 PM
I am sure Sheets has better close hand information.

However, I looked up Purpleheart in Keith Bootle's book Wood in Australia, not really expecting to find it listed because of the title of the book.

First up, it was listed, and interestingly seems to be the Peltogyne group of species rather than one tree. Quite hard and dense and as Phil has mentioned similar in the areas of density and difficulty to work as many of our Aussie species.

The heartwood is brown when freshly cut but quickly develops the characteristic purple colour.

The really funny thing was that as I mentioned above I was surprised to see it listed at all in the book (although many exotic, to Australia, species are listed), but the last entry of all said "Not seen in Australia!"

:rolleyes:

Regards
Paul

Mountain Ash
28th September 2020, 01:53 PM
Thanks Paul and great link Phil

Sheets
29th September 2020, 01:13 AM
Purpleheart from the wood database Purpleheart | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwood) (https://www.wood-database.com/purpleheart/)

similar numbers to some of the gums over here
Yes, thanks for the link. The only contrary observation I would make, in my experience with the stuff I have, it is quite purple when freshly cut (maybe because I use hand tools). Over time (years) it slowly darkens and turns brown with the purple tint basically disappearing unless, as mentioned, it is coated with a durable finish.

An example: 481894 Both of these were made by a turner in exchange for some of my purpleheart stock. The one on the left has no purple colour left, the right one still has some. These stoppers are about ten years old and rarely used (I'm a beer guy:U) and stored in drawer. Not sure of the finish - maybe just wax.

Sheets
30th September 2020, 10:57 AM
From the "Judges":fineprint:

"Hey folks, I hate sounding like a wet blanket, but please ease off on the general chatter in this thread. While the spirit of levity & camaraderie the challenge has generated is great to see, this thread is meant for the reasonably serious business. There may be some genuine questions that need to be asked, and it will all get lost in the general clamour if this keeps up......
:cool:
Cheers,"

:grumble:

I guess we've had a thick shaving taken off our hides, eh? Pun-ted out of the Stickies - oh the shame :(.

Of course, the Judges are (always) right.

Picko
30th September 2020, 01:57 PM
Of course, the Judges are (always) right.


Crawler :q

Sheets
1st October 2020, 07:41 AM
I've decided to make two planes. Same basic idea, but the second, while still using purpleheart, has grain that runs more in the classic way, so I hope will be less trouble than the first with respect to tearout. Also because I have another set of blades that may never get used if I don't take this opportunity to use them (now or never). I'll choose the best of the two to submit for the Challenge. There is certainly plenty of time remaining.

481989481990 Look Ma, purple mulch!481991 This blade is 70mm wide, so a little larger than No.1. I got this one on eBay as new in the box (2007ish, so hi-time I finally made a body for it).

Sheets
11th October 2020, 12:13 PM
481991 This blade is 70mm wide, so a little larger than No.1. I got this one on eBay as new in the box (2007ish, so hi-time I finally made a body for it).

Correction to this: (that's what I get for holding onto something for so many years - I forget stuff :?). This blade is actually also 65mm. Imagine how bright I would have looked having cut out a mortice 5mm too wide! Anyway, at least I still remember how to use a ruler. Not a lot of progress to report otherwise - been a bit slack and idle the last few days. Not looking forward to having to work indoors with the colder weather creeping up on us :(.

Having considered further, I think it is logical to only document the progress on one plane at a time. Should that one fail to be "good enough", then with enough time remaining, officially switch to No.2. Since both my planned planes are essentially identical, I would just be repeating myself if I were to do both simultaneously.

Sheets
20th October 2020, 06:00 AM
It works!
483101
Now, these are not the official challenge shavings (this stick is walnut), just a progress proof of performance. I had to tweak the mating of the blade and chip-breaker (lots of discussion about that in the Tips, Techniques and Theory thread). The blade requires more sharpening and the body needs more attention to detail - I still haven't really flattened and conditioned the sole yet. But I know now that all the parts fit with sufficient accuracy to to proceed with final finishing. Unless I really muck something up, I shouldn't need to depend on plane #2.

Simplicity
20th October 2020, 06:20 AM
It works!
483101
Now, these are not the official challenge shavings (this stick is walnut), just a progress proof of performance. I had to tweak the mating of the blade and chip-breaker (lots of discussion about that in the Tips, Techniques and Theory thread). The blade requires more sharpening and the body needs more attention to detail - I still haven't really flattened and conditioned the sole yet. But I know now that all the parts fit with sufficient accuracy to to proceed with final finishing. Unless I really muck something up, I shouldn't need to depend on plane #2.

Sheets.

That’s fantastic, another working plane,

You got to be happy with that, the Purple Heart really stands out well.[emoji120][emoji120][emoji120]

Cheers Matt.

Sheets
20th October 2020, 06:33 AM
You got to be happy with that, the Purple Heart really stands out well.

Cheers Matt.

Thanks Matt. The wood is very nice - will be ever more so when oiled and waxed. I just hope I can contain the few odd remnants of tear-out so they won't detract too much :(.

Oldgreybeard
20th October 2020, 07:27 AM
Congratulations, you should be very pleased with your efforts. Looking forward to seeing the final polished article. :2tsup::2tsup:

Cklett
20th October 2020, 08:13 AM
Looks great! I also like the look. How do you prevent the purple heart from turning grey again? What finish are you going to use?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Sheets
20th October 2020, 09:26 AM
Looks great! I also like the look. How do you prevent the purple heart from turning grey again? What finish are you going to use?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Thanks!

I'm going to use tung oil and wax as a finish. I don't know if I can prevent it from changing colour, but I suspect if it is kept indoors, it will last quite a while before turning brown - but brown is ok (will match the rust on the metal :D), as the figure will still be visible.

One other item I will have to decide on is, when I cut the opening for the mouth, I made it 3 mm (too eager to get on with it :?) which is really too large. It should plane ok, as witnessed by the walnut, but for fine shavings in more difficult wood, it may be a problem. I might come up with an insert to narrow the mouth, but still undecided. I guess I can wait and see how well it does with pine, then opt-in if necessary.

Mountain Ash
20th October 2020, 05:29 PM
Hi Sheets. Well done. The little tingle of pride in your acheivement is addictive. Looks great, how much decoration would a "traditional" plane have?

Ironwood
20th October 2020, 05:32 PM
Congratulations Sheets, looks good and I’m sure it’ll be a pleasure to use.

Sheets
21st October 2020, 05:40 AM
Looks great, how much decoration would a "traditional" plane have?

For the wood body, not much if any. Just the inherent qualities of the wood generally and the crispness of the workmanship (which, of course tends to go for a slide after some use and age). There is more variation in detail for the metal parts - pretty much whatever the blacksmith wants to do to it, with emphasis on the cutting ability of the edge regardless of any cosmetic embellishments. Each blacksmith wants to differentiate his product from all the others which follow the basic form (wood body with a blade or blade plus chip-breaker), so they add their own distinctive "marks" (the Japanese characters which indicate brand or name, hammer, chisel, file patterns, etc.). The more "work/time" put into cosmetics, generally means more cost, but of course does not necessarily equate to more/better performance. The chosen cosmetics, if any, must also appeal to the potential buyer, so are not applied willy-nilly (more is better type of thing), but are a quite considered and generally skillfully applied.

Bushmiller
21st October 2020, 09:48 AM
Sheets

Are the JP planes always used with a pull action or can they either pull or push?

Regards
Paul

Sheets
21st October 2020, 11:52 AM
Are the JP planes always used with a pull action or can they either pull or push?

Regards
Paul

Hi Paul,

I'm not an expert, so can't say how often someone would tend to prefer to push, but generally, the Asian style planes are designed to be pulled and that is (always?) the way you see them used. For myself, I have not tried pushing, so can't give any feedback on how it would work, but I'm sure it could be mastered. I have a Stanley No.4 with a scraper insert and Makita power planer which are push planes and do not find it feels "strange" to switch between pushing them and pulling the Japanese planes. I think it is how the hands are placed and the amount of sole ahead or behind the blade that governs the "best" direction to move.

Sheets
28th October 2020, 06:50 AM
I decided I would add a wood insert to the sole which would close up the mouth so wood would plane better. I thought a dark colour wood would provide a better contrast than a light colour wood would (would I stop with the alliteration, already!). As I have no such dark colour wood on hand or under foot, I have to wait 'til some I ordered from Lee Valley arrives (African Ebony pen blank - less than 5 bucks). In the meantime, I will continue to tweak the blade edge and make some fancy plugs for the holes where the chip breaker pin goes.

Anyway, that's what's up with my build. Nice to see all the progress from other challengers:2tsup:

Sheets
5th November 2020, 08:43 AM
I received my piece of ebony (20x20x155 mm) from Lee Valley. Never worked with it before, but after a quick planing to remove the saw marks, it seems to not present any difficulty in working it.

As I mentioned earlier, I cut the mouth too wide - because I cut on the wrong side of my blade edge line on the sole :-. I should have started my cut in from the sole on the bevel side of the line (done to prevent blasting out the blade mortice on the sole side). In the pic, I have my second plane body marked correctly for comparison (the blade edges lined up). After the mortice is finished and the blade fitted, the mouth should then be created in accordance with where the edge actually is (not me, but some people might miss their mark :D).
484090

The ebony will be a dove-tail insert about 6 mm thick across the sole at the blade edge, and then pared away to create a much narrower mouth (if all goes according to plan :oo:).This pic illustrates the orientation, but obviously I have yet to cut it to size.

484091

Chief Tiff
5th November 2020, 11:34 AM
I reckon that bit of ebony will be good for the sole! However, traditionally an insert would have the grain running in the same direction as the body; perhaps you could consider joining two or three thin pieces together to get sufficient width?

Will you also use it for making the plugs for the chip breaker pin?

Sheets
5th November 2020, 01:25 PM
I had thought about grain direction - but with this piece I will just have to live with the grain going crosswise. I would rather it be continuous than multiple pieces (I will have trouble enough getting one piece to fit). I haven't checked the end grain yet, but hopefully there will be a slight bias from one side to the other along the face (or I could slice it that way?) but it's still going to be cross grain. The wood is very close-grained and is supposed to be quite hard so that should help.

As for the plugs, right now my plan is to make them from tagua nut, which is very light coloured, almost white. I'm shooting for the piano keyboard effect :?. However, should the contrast prove to be too visually incongruent (ugly), using some ebony will certainly be plan B.

Btw Chief - I did my time on ships too, but I was "crab fat" (Air Force). I flew helicopters, so was good at breaking stuff, not fixing them.

Chief Tiff
5th November 2020, 09:57 PM
However, should the contrast prove to be too visually incongruent (ugly)

:U Now there’s a fine turn of phrase I need to store for future use.


I did my time on ships too, but I was "crab fat" (Air Force)

Then I’m very pleased to make your acquaintance!

(And if anyone feels they need to know the story behind that affectionate forces nickname you’ll need to PM one of us; it doesn’t pass the forum’s “would-it-offend-a-9YO-girl” test :rolleyes:)

Bushmiller
5th November 2020, 11:31 PM
:U Now there’s a fine turn of phrase I need to store for future use.



Then I’m very pleased to make your acquaintance!

(And if anyone feels they need to know the story behind that affectionate forces nickname you’ll need to PM one of us; it doesn’t pass the forum’s “would-it-offend-a-9YO-girl” test :rolleyes:)

And thereby hangs a tale?

Regards
Paul

doug3030
11th November 2020, 06:46 PM
"crab fat" (Air Force)

I spent a fair part of my Army career working alongside the Navy and Air Force.

Something to do wit anti-parasite medication, I believe?

Sheets
12th November 2020, 07:58 AM
I spent a fair part of my Army career working alongside the Navy and Air Force.

Something to do wit anti-parasite medication, I believe?

Sadly - fun and games for the sailors and we get the bad rep.

Anyway, some cheesy progress pics of today's work. Very pleasant weather for Nov, so took advantage and moved outside:
484575484576
6 mm deep x 17 mm wide at the sole. The key will be 21 mm at its widest. Next step is to create the dovetail shape in the slot, then fashion the key to match.
484577

Bushmiller
12th November 2020, 03:18 PM
And all performed with JP tools: Of course.

:)

I hope that Purpleheart retains it's colour for you as it is very striking. Umm: Perhaps you should make a mallet with it.

:rolleyes:

Regards
Paul

Sheets
13th November 2020, 01:30 AM
And all performed with JP tools: Of course.

:)

I hope that Purpleheart retains it's colour for you as it is very striking. Umm: Perhaps you should make a mallet with it.

:rolleyes:

Regards
Paul
Yes, a mallet - add another project to my "someday" list. You don't like my oak one :?.

Bushmiller
13th November 2020, 08:54 AM
Yes, a mallet - add another project to my "someday" list. You don't like my oak one :?.

Sheets

Your Oak mallet is wonderful. I just felt the purple heart suited a bashing implement. (Quote: "as it is very striking.")

:cool:

or should that be

:-

Regards
Paul

Sheets
13th November 2020, 09:18 AM
Sheets

I just felt the purple heart suited a bashing implement. (Quote: "as it is very striking.")

:cool:

or should that be

:-

Regards
Paul

Well, the colour would match that of my fingers on certain occasions.

Sheets
16th November 2020, 08:37 AM
The key in the door. I made the key the full length of the ebony blank as it is easier to manipulate and shape accurately by hand. It is in quite tight, so I will leave as is and cut it to length. Should it come loose, I can re-insert it with a touch of glue. I was worried it might split out the short sections of the body on the blade side of the mouth, but no such misfortune:2tsup:.
484714

Bushmiller
16th November 2020, 09:01 AM
Good job Sheets.

Regards
Paul

Simplicity
16th November 2020, 10:03 AM
I like these “design features”

Sheets that looks great, I actually like the contrast,job well done.

Cheers Matt.

Sheets
16th November 2020, 10:35 AM
Thanks Guys,

This wasn't a feature I had planned, but at least its one of those that has a straightforward solution. I like the contrast too, so my use of tagua nut as the plugs for the chip breaker holes really doesn't make sense. So I'll fashion some out of ebony as well.

Steve

orthodox32
25th November 2020, 08:47 PM
I also attempted to create the "shelf" (can't remember the Japanese terminology) at the bottom of the dai, where the blade bevel will be.

Having read the whole tread to see if somebody answered that for you, I will tell you, even though very late, that the shelf in question is called "tsutsumi".
Really nice work on the dai, i was surprised to see you do it with a tsutsumi to begin with, as it is very hard to do, and it does not have but a cosmetic role, IMO.
That being said I am by no means an authority in japanese planes, and I will stand corrected :)

Sheets
26th November 2020, 12:34 AM
Thanks for the comments. I don't find it particularly hard to create the tsusumi (thanks for reminding of the correct term) relative to the making of the rest of the dai - just have to ease off on the chisel as you get to the mouth opening and then sort of pare wood away. There is a special crank-neck chisel made for this purpose, paring across the grain. I don't have that tool, so I just pare with he grain. Doesn't look as tidy.

I did see one Japanese guy on YouTube that sort of explained the purpose of the tsusumi as preventing the edge of the dai opening behind the bevel from getting snagged on the edge of whatever you may be planing at the end of the stroke - I don't see that as a problem that needs fixing, and anyway eventually the tsusumi is going to disappear as the sole gets conditioned/corrected over time. There are many used kanna out there that no longer have, or never had a tsusumi, so its obviously not considered necessary.

Anyway, I just try to create the tsusumi for the "challenge".

Ps., I just re-read my book on J-tools by Toshio Odate (I knew I had a reference somewhere) - he says there that the tsusumi was thought to help prevent blade chatter by adding support to the blade bevel, but can also cause the sole to distort if the blade gets pushed down on it when taking a thicker shaving - and it does disappear eventually, so he doesn't see it as necessary either.

Sheets
26th November 2020, 01:00 AM
Just some proof of progress:

Paring away some of the key to open the mouth - starting with .5 mm. I still need to remove wood from the key further inside so there is clearance for the chip-breaker:
485175
One of the plugs:
485176

Sheets
10th December 2020, 02:54 AM
Like many, I've slowed down but still plugging away. I think I have the mouth adjusted ok, so gave the body two coats of tung oil. I'll let it cure a few more days before waxing.
485930485931485932
I'm still tweaking the blade edge - there are tiny pits from previous corrosion that keep causing the edge to be ragged. I'm loathe to grind them all out as it would seriously thin the hard steel layer, so I'm just slowly sharpening until I reach a point where the pits are sparse enough to not leave too messy a trail on the wood. After all, it's not the thinness of the shaving that counts, it's the finished surface.

Anyway, almost done!

Ironwood
10th December 2020, 04:10 AM
That’s looking good Sheets, it’s a beautiful piece of timber. Hopefully you get that blade sorted out.

Simplicity
10th December 2020, 06:31 AM
Like many, I've slowed down but still plugging away. I think I have the mouth adjusted ok, so gave the body two coats of tung oil. I'll let it cure a few more days before waxing.
485930485931485932
I'm still tweaking the blade edge - there are tiny pits from previous corrosion that keep causing the edge to be ragged. I'm loathe to grind them all out as it would seriously thin the hard steel layer, so I'm just slowly sharpening until I reach a point where the pits are sparse enough to not leave too messy a trail on the wood. After all, it's not the thinness of the shaving that counts, it's the finished surface.

Anyway, almost done!

Sheets,
That’s looking very good, I actually like the little Ebony insert.
It suits very well.

Cheers Matt.

Mountain Ash
13th December 2020, 08:15 AM
Hi S. If I remember correctly, the reason for the insert was to close up the mouth, yeah? Had all gone to plan, would the purpleheart been hard enough on its own?

Sheets
13th December 2020, 09:47 AM
Hi S. If I remember correctly, the reason for the insert was to close up the mouth, yeah? Had all gone to plan, would the purpleheart been hard enough on its own?
The purpleheart would be just fine as wood for a plane body, notwithstanding its finickiness to work into that stage. I can't say long-term how it might stand up - the previous one I made was donated to a fund-raising auction (no idea where it is now or if its being used), but its strong, dense and hard so I don't see why it would be any less satisfactory than more traditional woods. Now having said that, I'm going for a winner here, so flash over function is the order of the day in any case :wink:. In fact, with all the metal planes being submitted, I almost feel compelled to add some brass or stainless rivets (perhaps into the sole like hob-nailed boots - thoughts?).

Bushmiller
13th December 2020, 01:50 PM
The purpleheart would be just fine as wood for a plane body, notwithstanding its finickiness to work into that stage. I can't say long-term how it might stand up - the previous one I made was donated to a fund-raising auction (no idea where it is now or if its being used), but its strong, dense and hard so I don't see why it would be any less satisfactory than more traditional woods. Now having said that, I'm going for a winner here, so flash over function is the order of the day in any case :wink:. In fact, with all the metal planes being submitted, I almost feel compelled to add some brass or stainless rivets (perhaps into the sole like hob-nailed boots - thoughts?).

Sheets

Others may make up a wooden box to house their metal planes. You could make a metal box for your wooden plane: Thus satisfying the metalwork brigade.

Regards
Paul

Simplicity
13th December 2020, 03:47 PM
The purpleheart would be just fine as wood for a plane body, notwithstanding its finickiness to work into that stage. I can't say long-term how it might stand up - the previous one I made was donated to a fund-raising auction (no idea where it is now or if its being used), but its strong, dense and hard so I don't see why it would be any less satisfactory than more traditional woods. Now having said that, I'm going for a winner here, so flash over function is the order of the day in any case :wink:. In fact, with all the metal planes being submitted, I almost feel compelled to add some brass or stainless rivets (perhaps into the sole like hob-nailed boots - thoughts?).

You wood guys just go play in the corner with your soft stuff ok.
Us metal guys will take care of the tougher stuff.

Cheers Matt.

Sheets
14th December 2020, 02:11 AM
Sheets

Others may make up a wooden box to house their metal planes. You could make a metal box for your wooden plane: Thus satisfying the metalwork brigade.

Regards
Paul
Hmmm, sounds like a lot of work, but intriguing. I will require a commitment from you metal guys to also produce boxes 'tho.
On second thought, having looked at the work thus far - so many right angles as are contained in a box might be too much to ask.

Steve

Sheets
14th December 2020, 02:28 AM
You wood guys just go play in the corner with your soft stuff ok.
Us metal guys will take care of the tougher stuff.

Cheers Matt.

Indeed, feel free to shoot your knobs and infills over to us wood guys (not that I'm suggesting, appearances aside, that you're having trouble with the stuff).

Steve

Mountain Ash
14th December 2020, 06:54 AM
Hi Sheets. I wood not think they they had the temper for it. Steel, you never know, the love of timber is ingrained in all of us. :rolleyes:

Sheets
14th December 2020, 08:39 AM
Hi Sheets. I wood not think they they had the temper for it. Steel, you never know, the love of timber is ingrained in all of us. :rolleyes:
'Tis the plane truth. But I do feel my resolve for my chosen material being chiseled away at. Perhaps next challenge will be the switch to metal - then I can say "peen there, done that, got the T square".

Aussiephil
14th December 2020, 09:22 AM
You wood guys just go play in the corner with your soft stuff ok.
Us metal guys will take care of the tougher stuff.

Cheers Matt.

Nothing harder than making soft stuff suitable for hard work .....

Us soft media users will keep beavering away and should get bonus points for non traditional thinking :)