Newbie - Which Finish for Dining Table

[m888]

I have a Tasmanian blackwood dining table that is sanded back and ready for a finish to be applied. I don't do this often and I'm really not sure what to use. I would prefer something that is:

Hard wearing to withstand family dining use (including food/drink spills)
Long lasting
ideally a coat that doesn't yellow over time or only a little
Ideally doesn't change colour of timber much

At this stage im considering a water based varnish like Cabot's Cabothane Clear Water Based.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[double.d]

Hi m888, the trouble with a varnish is that it will scratch every time a plate or cup is moved on it and a varnish will discolour as time goes by and are not heat resistant.

My advice would be to use an oil finish and one which i have been using for a while is Constantia Organic Finishes Chinese wood oil (no affiliation with China, it was named because the Chinese were the first to blend Tung oil for timber finishing) followed by Seedlac French polish if you are looking for a gloss finish or the Lincoln wax for a satin or glossier finish. The benefit of these products is that they can easily be reapplied to rejuvenate the surface and scratches can be patch fixed. For your application the wood oil on it's own would be the best for a high use surface and it is heat resistant so no rings from plates and cups and maintenance is easy with just a few wipe overs yearly.

[China]

Rustins Plastic Coating.

[rob streeper]

Behlens Rock Hard (un-cat) Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/Behlen-Rockhard-Table-Urethane-Varnish/product-reviews/B008E5FZB2) or Old Masters Masters Armor (catalyzed) Masters Armor(R) | Old Masters (https://myoldmasters.com/product/masters-armor).

[m888]

Behlens Rock Hard (un-cat) Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/Behlen-Rockhard-Table-Urethane-Varnish/product-reviews/B008E5FZB2) or Old Masters Masters Armor (catalyzed) Masters Armor(R) | Old Masters (https://myoldmasters.com/product/masters-armor).

Would Cabots CFP Water based be in a similar league to Masters Armor? Much easier to source that is all.

[Rudyvm]

Hi m888, the trouble with a varnish is that it will scratch every time a plate or cup is moved on it and a varnish will discolour as time goes by and are not heat resistant.

My advice would be to use an oil finish and one which i have been using for a while is Constantia Organic Finishes Chinese wood oil (no affiliation with China, it was named because the Chinese were the first to blend Tung oil for timber finishing) followed by Seedlac French polish if you are looking for a gloss finish or the Lincoln wax for a satin or glossier finish. The benefit of these products is that they can easily be reapplied to rejuvenate the surface and scratches can be patch fixed. For your application the wood oil on it's own would be the best for a high use surface and it is heat resistant so no rings from plates and cups and maintenance is easy with just a few wipe overs yearly.

I agree with the tung oil and wax, I built a dining table from various Australian hardwoods about 5 years ago and am really pleased with the results as the natural timber finish shines though, feel that varnishes give a slightly artificial look and scratching is an issue. Just need to give mine a quick sand with a really fine steel wool and reapply a coat of oil and wax every year or so to avoid weathering as it does have exposure to direct sunlight.

Cheers,

Rudy

[rob streeper]

Would Cabots CFP Water based be in a similar league to Masters Armor? Much easier to source that is all.
Yes, if there is a local equivalent. Behlens has a good reputation and Old Masters is a newer product. You might also look at finishes manufactured for floors such as the materials used for basketball courts.

[Beardy]

I made a black butt servery and I have used Tung oil. It wears well and easy to give a freshen up coat periodically
Also maintains a more natural finish