fake timber panel walls

[Tonyz]

been asked about a project that is limited in cash.
the request is preferably plywood foxed to internal besser block walls, well 6mm sheets x by a 48sq m room is blowing the budget, but thinking wise (and maybe stupid) 2 local cabinet makers would supply me 9mm MDF cover sheets free (owing to who my client is )
so therefore drab some of these at a time, sand and seal (seal both sides and edges.
Now how can I make MDF look like timber, Ive seen it done on small pieces but whole sheets.

the panels would all be uniform width hopefully 1100 but cut random big lengths.

dont tell me I am crazy, I already know that.

[elanjacobs]

Sorry to burst your bubble, but no. Absolutely not.

MDF cover sheets are not suitable for any purpose other than packaging material and disposable templates; they don't have the waxy smooth surface of "fit-for-sale" MDF, they're fuzzy, unsandable and unsealable.

I strongly recommend you run far, far away from this project, I don't foresee anything good coming your way from it :no:

[ian]

:whs:

[russ57]

Wall paper...

[Beardy]

I am assuming you are donating your labour for this project? if not maybe choose a more budget appropriate lining

[Tonyz]

bugga, ok cheers, yes donating my labour

would quality MDF sheets make a difference?

[elanjacobs]

Proper MDF is probably workable, I do like the wallpaper suggestion from russ

[Tonyz]

they are trying to coverup the besser blocks in a large room, how youd fix wall paper I dont think so, another option would be a tinted colour plaster or concrete slurry render

[elanjacobs]

No....fix the MDF to the wall, then paper it.

Render would probably be the least effort, just depends if they like the look

[Midnight Man]

My only question - mainly because I haven't tried it - would the water in the glue for the wallpaper cause an issue on MDF? i.e. cause it to warp - particularly as it's only going on one side?

[Tonyz]

If we do go MDF and anything it will be sealed both sides and all edges before anything.

[elanjacobs]

As long as it's fixed solidly to the wall I think it will be fine

[DJ’s Timber]

You said Besser Blocks, is this a newish wall with the appropriate concrete mix in it? Or hollow, maybe a retaining wall. Check that whatever you line it with is not going to be affected.

Some walls need to be sealed before lining

[Chief Tiff]

Why not Gyprock? An 8’x4’ sheet is cheaper than a sheet of 6mm MDF, and to affix it you just need to throw dabs of glue at the wall and press it on. Jointing tape is cheap and you need to throw a skim of plaster over the joins but it’s fairly easy; certainly not rocket surgery. Then you can just paint it.

[ian]

they are trying to coverup the besser blocks in a large room, how youd fix wall paper I dont think so, another option would be a tinted colour plaster or concrete slurry render
either of which is a fair amount of work for you.

Tinting "plaster" to a consistent colour to do a whole room requires multiple batches of "plaster" all exactly the same tint. Doable, but a huge amount of work for you, especially if you are donating your labour. More usual would be to cover the "plaster" with two coats of paint -- paint on sealer followed by the appropriately tinted top coat.

do not use concrete slurry render. The material I think you are referring to using is a render consisting of a mix of lime and cement and sand, screeded onto the wall. It is not a concrete slurry. From memory it's a two stage process: the first stage has a lot more sand in the mix; the 2nd stage has a lot more lime in the mixture.

Given your time constraint -- your free labour is a time constrained cost -- Chief Tiff's suggestion of Gyprock has a lot to merit it. Cheaper than MDF, relatively easy to fix, and can be papered over or painted. Disadvantage of gyprock is that it's easily damaged.


other thoughts -- is there a reason that the besser blocks can not just be painted?

Have you considered "cement bagging" the besser blocks.
I've not seen it done, but getting on for 30 years ago I saw the results on a house in Canberra. Cement bagged walls can be painted over, but it's probably best to pay a professional to do the "cement bagging". Which might be outside your client's budget.

[Beardy]

I
either of which is a fair amount of work for you.

Tinting "plaster" to a consistent colour to do a whole room requires multiple batches of "plaster" all exactly the same tint. Doable, but a huge amount of work for you, especially if you are donating your labour. More usual would be to cover the "plaster" with two coats of paint -- paint on sealer followed by the appropriately tinted top coat.

do not use concrete slurry render. The material I think you are referring to using is a render consisting of a mix of lime and cement and sand, screeded onto the wall. It is not a concrete slurry. From memory it's a two stage process: the first stage has a lot more sand in the mix; the 2nd stage has a lot more lime in the mixture.

Given your time constraint -- your free labour is a time constrained cost -- Chief Tiff's suggestion of Gyprock has a lot to merit it. Cheaper than MDF, relatively easy to fix, and can be papered over or painted. Disadvantage of gyprock is that it's easily damaged.


other thoughts -- is there a reason that the besser blocks can not just be painted?

Have you considered "cement bagging" the besser blocks.
I've not seen it done, but getting on for 30 years ago I saw the results on a house in Canberra. Cement bagged walls can be painted over, but it's probably best to pay a professional to do the "cement bagging". Which might be outside your client's budget.

Bagging is much easier than render to do but still requires skill to get a consistent finish. Lime does not get used much anymore as it is considered hazardous. A lot of them now used bagged premixed acrylic render which has a lot of advantages over traditional render

[Tonyz]

This forum is just amazing,, so many well informed people usually come up with ideas that would have been overlooked.

Thank you all.
Besser block walls are 30 years old. they are hollow,
gyprock, has been considered, however inside dormitory rooms at a youth camp, I err on the side of wariness and caution.
wallpaper I just hate the stuff, the number of times I helped my dad repaper wall after wall of different houses. nah.
slurry render hadnt thought about the tint mixing, however, slap bagging coat on, making it appear rough cast (to hide mistakes & blemishes) then spray paint it.
the walls were painted bright pick & baby poo girls dorms & baby blue & soft cream = boys dorms, these were done many years ago,

[elanjacobs]

gyprock, has been considered, however inside dormitory rooms at a youth camp, I err on the side of wariness and caution.

Gyprock might actually be the cautious way to go. Yes it is easily damaged, but that also means it has a bit of cushioning should someone accidentally/on purpose have a close encounter with the wall. It's also pretty easy to repair, especially since it won't be on a hollow stud wall; the worst you'll get is dents, not gaping holes.

[Beardy]

If you don’t think Gyprock will stand up to the abuse you could direct fix villaboard instead and set it

I am doing a Gyprock over bedder block glad next week converting a garage into a bedroom

[Old Hilly]

Silly question but what's on the other side of the wall? Will moisture travel through the blocks and damage the lining? If that is the case then some sort of moisture barrier will be needed. Even core=filled block walls can be a pain to waterproof.

[Tonyz]

outside air, been there for 30+ years, looking at cosmetic rejuvenation, also other dorm rooms

[markharrison]

How about plasterboard glued directly to the blocks? I've done this (nearly 20 years ago) and it is still standing up and looking just fine. Though it was to bricks in my case.

I am having the same thoughts about my current house which has lots of exposed internal brick. It is a cavity brick house, though they used that horrid chocolate brown brick. I want to avoid putting in studs etc because the house is not that large as it is.

[Mountain Ash]

Hi Tony. Plasterboard is cheap, easy to cut to size and light enough to stick to block work.. Stopping up and sanding can be trickier. If rooms are heated moisture will be travelling to outside. Painting is probably even easier if you have access to spray equipment.

[GraemeCook]

Why not Gyprock? .... Then you can just paint it.


:2tsup:

Common way of hiding those horrible 1970's "feature brick walls", or blockwork, is to cover them with plasterboard. Quick and cheap, and also makes the room look bigger.