Mirka Sanding Mesh

[Damienol]

Anyone got any experience with Mirka sanding mesh?

Lately I am getting sanding circles which are only visible under a black stain. I dont know if they have always been there (black stain is a new thing for me) or if it is a result of switching to Mirka mesh discs or upgrading the shopvac to a Festool.

Or something elses

[Chief Tiff]

If you are getting little circular swirl marks it’s more likely a combination of the sander itself and your technique. If I press down too hard with my ROS I get the swirls.

Lighter sanders seem to be more prone to swirling than heavier ones.

[Damienol]

If you are getting little circular swirl marks it’s more likely a combination of the sander itself and your technique. If I press down too hard with my ROS I get the swirls.

Lighter sanders seem to be more prone to swirling than heavier ones.

Festool sander and I am not aware of a technique change

[jpdv]

Can't help with your specifics, but just to say I use Sianet with zero problems. Never had marks etc within sane normal use...

[elanjacobs]

I think you might just need to go to a finer grit; black is the WORST colour because every single defect in the surface will catch the light and show up.

[Damienol]

I think you might just need to go to a finer grit; black is the WORST colour because every single defect in the surface will catch the light and show up.

Osmo doesn’t like anything less than 120g [emoji15]


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[elanjacobs]

Osmo doesn’t like anything less than 120g
Then the only thing I can suggest is to either find a different finish that will allow you to go finer or don't use black stain.

120 grit will leave swirlies and black will show them, I don't know of any way around that :no:

[homey]

I’ve switched to using Abranet more than Festool papers. I’ve not had a problem with the curlies (hmm-perhaps I could have expressed that better) but then I always finish to at least 240.
My setup is Abranet+ Festool ETS + CT26 extractor. Finishes are usually NC lacquer, shellac, Osmo or Tru-Oil.

Regards,

Brian

[Alkahestic]

Are you using a pad saver type thing between the mesh and your sander? I found I was getting swirlies with a mesh because the pad saver covered up some of the extraction holes. Using 'normal' paper and no pad saver - no issues.

Edit: I've sanded to 180 and 240 and Osmo applied fine. There's an Osmo thin as well that might penetrate better at higher grits - it's recommended for dense timbers like spotted gum.

[double.d]

I Have a Mirka fittted with a pad saver and have had the swirlies on a few occasions with the Abranet but can't pinpoint why. Have never had it happen with a paper pad, even a clogged one.

A little off topic but i think the Abranet are overrated, in my experience they last no longer than the paper version.

[mature one]

I have used Mirka on a ros for ever and don't find it to make any marks in use.

[Damienol]

I Have a Mirka fittted with a pad saver and have had the swirlies on a few occasions with the Abranet but can't pinpoint why. Have never had it happen with a paper pad, even a clogged one.

A little off topic but i think the Abranet are overrated, in my experience they last no longer than the paper version.

Interesting observations.

I cant get away from using the black stain so perhaps I need ti experiment with some left over Festool papers.


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[Enfield Guy]

I always final sand with the Mirka hand sander, same grit as the finest I use on the ros. Final sand along the grain. 180grit.

[Dr_No]

Osmo doesn’t like anything less than 120g [emoji15]


One solution can be to sand up to a finer grit with the ROS, then do a finishing sand by hand with the grain at 120. This ensures the finish is smooth and free of swirls, but gives the right texture for the Osmo

[Lappa]

Osmo told me 120 on harder timbers, 180 on softer timbers like pine for the polyX. On a side note - after the disappointing result, I won’t be using it again.

[Damienol]

Osmo told me 120 on harder timbers, 180 on softer timbers like pine for the polyX. On a side note - after the disappointing result, I won’t be using it again.

I had to redo a clients table 3 times as I sanded beyond 120g.

It can also take weeks to dry if you slightly over apply.

I think I will switch to Livos for once I exhaust my current supplies

[Lappa]

As I’d never used it before, I rang Osmo in Melbourne. They told me how to prepare the surface, what to clean it down with and they told me to go to 180 on pine. Looked great initially but started peeling off.

[homey]

It’s a shame you guys haven’t had success with Osmo PolyX. I’ve been using it for years and love it.

My early mistakes were around putting the finish on too heavily. Osmo really does need to go on very very thinly. Mostly now I use a small piece of white Scotchbrite pad to apply it thinnnnnly, leave it for 15 minutes then wipe off well. Leave overnight and repeat.

As to sanding I follow Osmo’s product info sheet and sand to 240 (they say 180 to 240 for furniture):

https://osmouk.com/downloads/polyx-oil-original-product-information.pd (https://osmouk.com/downloads/polyx-oil-original-product-information.pdf)f

I use Osmo on walnut, maple, cherry and similar - I believe Osmo make a special thin product for difficult timbers - high tannin content etc - but I’ve not tried it.

For anyone new to the product I’d recommend watching the two-part YouTube video on learning to use Osmo:
Woodwork Finishing - Learning to use OSMO Part 1 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7cgv0l4k8U)

Good luck!

Brian

[Enfield Guy]

I’ve never had an issue with Osmo when applied correctly. Thin is the key. I use a microfibres roller and wipe off with paper towel. The second coat is the same but I prolly use half the volume of product. Raking light is important to ensure you are getting full coverage and a consistent sheen.

[Enfield Guy]

Another thing.

I find the ceramic net disks by SIA or Norton are much longer lasting than the Mirka product. Shame they don’t do them in 125mm

[Damienol]

It’s a shame you guys haven’t had success with Osmo PolyX. I’ve been using it for years and love it.

My early mistakes were around putting the finish on too heavily. Osmo really does need to go on very very thinly. Mostly now I use a small piece of white Scotchbrite pad to apply it thinnnnnly, leave it for 15 minutes then wipe off well. Leave overnight and repeat.

As to sanding I follow Osmo’s product info sheet and sand to 240 (they say 180 to 240 for furniture):

I use Osmo on walnut, maple, cherry and similar - I believe Osmo make a special thin product for difficult timbers - high tannin content etc - but I’ve not tried it.

For anyone new to the product I’d recommend watching the two-part YouTube video on learning to use Osmo:

Good luck!

Brian

I just finished watching Part 2 of this video and now believe my primary issue was not allowing enough time for the stain to fully dry. The video suggests 3 days.

So annoying but hopefully thats it.

I assume the white pad that is used is white scotch bright?

[homey]

Hi Damienol,

Yes. There is another YT video by Peter Parfitt (New Brit Workshop) in which he compares Osmo applied with three different white non-abrasive pads - one Scotchbright, one Beartex and one I can’t remember. All results were the same. The best results were when he lightly scuffed with a dry white Scotchbright after the first coat had dried.

Here’s the link:

Methods of Applying Osmo PolyX Oil - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9Rp65DAarE)

Regards,

Brian

[qwertyu]

Ive used osmo on timber sanded to 240. All my osmo issues has been applying too heavily - I just wipe it down after a few mins if I get too much on and have done 3 coats before if worried about it being too thin.

I also used livos on 2 tables for my parents and the durability sucked