Underbench cabinets

[derekcohen]

I decided to add a cabinet to my work bench. There are just too many tools on the wall, and many would be better off stored in drawers where I can reach for them when needed.

Please feel free to post your underbench cabinets here. I do not recall a thread on this topic.


https://i.postimg.cc/Gm8w9M0G/3.jpg


The cabinet will span as wide and high as it can go without being impeded by either hold downs or the sliding deadman.


This tool cabinet is inspired by the North Bennet Street School version (a well-known woodworking school in Boston). The tool cabinet is one of their training pieces. One became an article by Tommy MacDonald in PW magazine (https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/tommy-mac-toolchest-2/).

Tommy's tool cabinet ..

https://cdn.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/toolbox_opener.jpg (https://cdn.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/toolbox_opener.jpg)


Mine will be a little larger, more drawers, and a more complex construction involving mitred through dovetails ...

https://i.postimg.cc/qMZHkPFp/4.jpg


Dimensions: 660mm x 400mm x 400mm (26" x 15 3/4" x 15 3/4").

Small drawers: 205mm x 70mm (8" x 2 3/4")
Large drawers: 305mm x 95" (12" x 3 3/4")


Merbau case being dovetailed. This is definitely going to add some weight to the bench! :)



https://i.postimg.cc/ZKcZ34m6/2.jpg


Well, this is about the fourth mitred through dovetail case I've built in about 18 months. I must be getting the hang of it now, since this was straight off the saw. No tweaking needed. Merbau is hard and has no give at all ... did I tell you that I love that I can re-fresh my chisels on the power buffer? What a different it makes to chop and pare with really sharp chisels.


https://i.postimg.cc/5Njv38r1/8.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/d3NCF0Lz/9.jpg


The Merbau comes as a panel from Bunnings. This is shop furniture and I make no excuses for taking a shortcut. The 18mm thick panels are flat and ready to go. Literally all I have done is cut them to size.

https://i.postimg.cc/1tktrNVR/12.jpg

The penalty is that the wood is bloody hard!

The drawer fronts will be Jarrah.

Just to prove to myself that it was no fluke, it happened again ...

https://i.postimg.cc/QCd7v7xQ/10.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/8kZMMZtt/11.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tonyz]

fair crack of the whip batman, I bow to you Derek for your quality and dedication.

I will not show pics :- but I went garage sale shopping bought a few bedside & kitchen cabinets, adjusted where needed, fitted them all into a work bench, I have added quarter dowelling under the MDF base so they dont fall out.

To dress them up, I am cutting up a sheet of ply that will fix to each drawer front, hopefully, all matching.

[Fuzzie]

Hi Derek,

I use the chest I made for the 2015 pallet challenge as an underbench chest. It is also loosely based on the North Bennet St version, sized to fit what I could cut out of the pallet, but it also happened to fit almost perfectly under my bench. The only issue I had was the bottom drawer hit the deadman track when opening, fixed by sitting it on top of a reclaimed sheet of plywood from another pallet!
485422

Cheers,

[Chief Tiff]

So where are you going to store your Moxon vise now? :D

When I built my small-ish workbench a dozen or so years ago I incorporated drawers on full length HD runners about 2/3rds across the available space underneath. At the time I didn't consider hold-downs or even think of things like a deadman; their lack really annoyed me after moving more towards the Dark Side hence my outdoor bench build earlier this year. Saying that; the drawers have been incredibly useful and I couldn't be without them now. The top drawer contains mostly stationary, drawing equipment, refences and weird odds & sods. The 2nd one contains mainly drilling and screwing gear and three others house most of my bench planes, spokeshaves and chisels. Next to the bench are a pair of "temporarily" installed ex-kitchen drawer units; I'm giving serious consideration to replacing them with a single bespoke drawer unit!

And those dovetails look great; I'm a long way off being able to make them anywhere near that neat straight off the saw. Loooooong way.....

.:wtg: Maestro!

[derekcohen]

CT, the Moxon will be obviously need to go elsewhere! :)

There are many tools on both the wall and also on work surfaces (such as where I keep the shooting board). The work surface is a better place for the Moxon, and the tools are better in drawers.

My plan is to reduce the number of drawers by building in sliding trays. That will not only lessen the build time, but also lower the clutter and enable tools, such as chisels and marking, to be grouped together.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[derekcohen]

Hi Derek,

I use the chest I made for the 2015 pallet challenge as an underbench chest. It is also loosely based on the North Bennet St version, sized to fit what I could cut out of the pallet, but it also happened to fit almost perfectly under my bench. The only issue I had was the bottom drawer hit the deadman track when opening, fixed by sitting it on top of a reclaimed sheet of plywood from another pallet!
485422

Cheers,

Franklin, let's see more of this chest. It looks wonderful!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Fuzzie]

Hi Derek,

The build thread is here (https://www.woodworkforums.com/f187/pallet-challenge-tool-chest-build-197613). Pictures intact!

Cheers,
Franklin

[ian]

I decided to add a cabinet to my work bench. There are just too many tools on the wall, and many would be better off stored in drawers where I can reach for them when needed.

https://i.postimg.cc/Gm8w9M0G/3.jpg

The cabinet will span as wide and high as it can go without being impeded by either hold downs or the sliding deadman.


This tool cabinet is inspired by the North Bennet Street School version (a well-known woodworking school in Boston). The tool cabinet is one of their training pieces. One became an article by Tommy MacDonald in PW magazine (https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/tommy-mac-toolchest-2/).

Tommy's tool cabinet ..

https://cdn.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/toolbox_opener.jpg (https://cdn.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/toolbox_opener.jpg)


Mine will be a little larger, more drawers, and a more complex construction involving mitred through dovetails ...

https://i.postimg.cc/qMZHkPFp/4.jpg


Dimensions: 660mm x 400mm x 400mm (26" x 15 3/4" x 15 3/4").

Small drawers: 205mm x 70mm (8" x 2 3/4")
Large drawers: 305mm x 95" (12" x 3 3/4")
Derek
Your only mention of what you intend placing in the under bench cabinet is "the tools on the wall" and while you seem to have already determined how big each drawer will be, I will nevertheless recommend that each drawer should really only hold a single layer of tools.
And where possible, each drawer should be sized to fit a "set" eg the plough plane and its associated cutters.

etc

[derekcohen]

Derek
Your only mention of what you intend placing in the under bench cabinet is "the tools on the wall" and while you seem to have already determined how big each drawer will be, I will nevertheless recommend that each drawer should really only hold a single layer of tools.
And where possible, each drawer should be sized to fit a "set" eg the plough plane and its associated cutters.

etc

Ian, I should have mentioned the boxes of chisels and other similar tools which inhabit the work surfaces, which could be better used, or the specialist planes (block planes, shoulder planes, side rebate planes) which would be nicer to have closer to hand, rather than crowded together on a shelf ...

I will examine the use of drawers. I just did not want to have to make more drawers if this could be avoided.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[ian]

Ian, I should have mentioned the boxes of chisels and other similar tools which inhabit the work surfaces, which could be better used, or the specialist planes (block planes, shoulder planes, side rebate planes) which would be nicer to have closer to hand, rather than crowded together on a shelf ...

I will examine the use of drawers. I just did not want to have to make more drawers if this could be avoided.
Derek
in some respects I hear you, in others I'm going :?


Only you can decide what best suits your work flow but at 70 mm deep, even your small drawers are, to my way of thinking, too deep for many of the tools you mention as needing more convenient [for you] homes.
Whilst I understand your desire to limit the number of dovetails you need to cut, drawers at around 20 - 25 mm deep will allow you to store many more tools in the "workshop furniture" without resorting to the use of tills.
Most of the drawers in my own [under construction] tool box are 25 to 30 mm deep -- with plywood bottoms. This depth is ideal for flat things like layout squares, rules, etc.

[derekcohen]

Ian, I agree with your argument for drawers with less depth. The reason for the depth of these drawers is deliberate. They will not be full length deep internally, but have runners at the rear to create a full extension when siding out. Internally, it has been my plan to use siding trays, which will then take the internal height to something similar to yours. In many respects, our plan overlaps, and it is just that the fewer drawers and overall case dimensions make it look so different.

EDIT TO ADD

Ian, there is another motive for building this cabinet. I shall retire in 4 years, and this will involve selling our present house (and workshop/garage), where we have lived for 30+ years, and downsize to a slightly smaller property - one without the garden and pool to maintain. Part of the plan for the bench is to create future storage for tools, as well as storage for travel to a new workshop. We have another house, not far from where we are at present, but will need to build a workshop there. Something to look forward to, but also there is the awareness that I need to conserve space.


Regards from Perth

Derek

[derekcohen]

A little update.

All four sides are dovetailed. Through dovetails with mitres at each corner. And every one went together off the saw ... well, almost - one mitre required a smidgeon of a mm pared away to close tightly. All tight and square. I am quite chuffed.

https://i.postimg.cc/Rh99nGt9/13.jpg

This is the difficult part - to get the mitres to close along with the sockets ...

https://i.postimg.cc/xjy9SDrd/15.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/X7s3pfYS/14.jpg


Inside the bench ...

https://i.postimg.cc/T19xjmjb/16.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/65WtWjwf/17.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek

[ian]

EDIT TO ADD

Ian, there is another motive for building this cabinet. I shall retire in 4 years, and this will involve selling our present house (and workshop/garage), where we have lived for 30+ years, and downsize to a slightly smaller property - one without the garden and pool to maintain. Part of the plan for the bench is to create future storage for tools, as well as storage for travel to a new workshop. We have another house, not far from where we are at present, but will need to build a workshop there. Something to look forward to, but also there is the awareness that I need to conserve space.
:2tsup:

:2tsup:

[Chris Parks]

I know that under bench storage drawers/shelves etc seem like a good idea and if you are prepared to accept the problems then go for it but my experience has been that sooner or later they collect debris in them from working on the bench which annoyed me so much I abandoned the idea.

[derekcohen]

I know that under bench storage drawers/shelves etc seem like a good idea and if you are prepared to accept the problems then go for it but my experience has been that sooner or later they collect debris in them from working on the bench which annoyed me so much I abandoned the idea.

Once fitted, just stop using the bench! No more debris. :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[derekcohen]

Time to use the slider. THIS is what the parallel guide (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider.html) on the slider can do. It is like a Fritz & Franz jig on steroids ...


With the case done, the next step is to prepare the boards for the drawer blades/frames. I have found a chunk of Jarrah, about 50mm thick and 180mm wide and about 950mm long. This needs to be sliced up into 50mm wide boards (which will be further reduced to 12mm thick drawer blades.


Place the board against the parallel guide ...


https://i.postimg.cc/KYpcY6QS/8.jpg


... and rip one side to 50mm ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Zq5K4b8x/9.jpg


Now rip the second length ...


https://i.postimg.cc/HxJY86PJ/10.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/rF5p9Yyx/11.jpg


.. and the third. How safe is a slider? This is where one stands - well away from any possible kickback (which does not occur on a slider, anyway. And the hands are no where near the blade ...


https://i.postimg.cc/htgtZbhw/12.jpg


How good are the saw cuts? Good enough to joint with, and not require a jointer for the edges.


Here is the board ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Fz3hD7vN/13.jpg


Close up ...


https://i.postimg.cc/8zHP2J6C/14.jpg


But ...


https://i.postimg.cc/PxBtW1BS/15.jpg


https://sawmillcreek.org/images/smilies/smile.gif


Regards from Perth


Derek

[derekcohen]

The Rebate

A rebate can be made with a handheld router, router table, table saw, a handsaw and chisel, and a hand plane such as a moving fillister. My preference is the latter.

What can be more simple than a fillister plane along an edge? Well, the plane needs to be set up, especially when planing interlocked grain, as we have here. And before this can take place, the case needs to be prepared if the desired result is an accurate - flush and square - rebate.

The first step is to level and square the front and back edges of the case. My plane of choice here is a small bevel up plane with a high cutting angle. It is low like a block plane for easy handling, which is helpful when the case is high on the bench ...

https://i.postimg.cc/fTx0CR9j/26.jpg

The case is 18mm (3/4") thick. The rebate will be 7mm deep x 12mm wide. This will allow for a 6mm thick rear panel.

The cabinet will have four rows of drawers, with the lowermost row running on the bottom of the case. It is important that this surface is perfectly flat in order that the drawers run smoothly. The boards making up the sides were flat out of the packaging. Certainly flat enough for a case, but not quite flat enough for drawers to run on with the level of precision desired here. They need further work ...

The case is pulled apart, and the lower panel is traversed. Note that the surface is first covered in pencil scribble to monitor where the high- and low points are ...

https://i.postimg.cc/x1zQs4xV/23.jpg

A straight edge and a longer plane are used here ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Vs0tSRsh/24.jpg

The blade here is slightly cambered to avoid leaving track lines. A very light surfacing is completed with a smoother, more to remove any fuzz than to level ...

https://i.postimg.cc/yYqZ0Zk8/25.jpg

The moving fillister of choice is the Veritas Skew Rabbet Plane ...

https://i.postimg.cc/zD4npQP5/29.jpg

Those familiar with this plane will note that the front knob has been removed. My preference is to rest my thumb on that spot and apply downforce, while the palm applies force against the side of the plane. Here is an example from another build ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/MovingForward_html_34fc2827.jpg

This fillister has a deeper subfence. The depth stop knob has also been slotted for ensure that it has been tightened securely ...

https://i.postimg.cc/T3Jgd32Y/31.jpg

The plane is generally only set up to slice with the knicker ahead of the blade when planing across the grain. However, the Merbau used here has especially interlocked grain, and the nicker it employed to prevent spelching on the shoulders.

https://i.postimg.cc/3wrpdQWj/30.jpg

Here, the nicker is a smidgeon outside the body of the plane. The skewed blade lies in-line with the nicker. This has another purpose, which is to cut into the lower corner of the rebate and keep it clean and square. Otherwise it would allow waste to build there, and the inside would create a slope.

In addition to the line created by the nicker, a cutting gauge is run along the rebate boundary. This may be used after or during the rebate is cut to clean out the inside corner.

One last item of preparation is, following marking out the rebate (again with a cutting gauge), the lower boundary line is highlighted with blue painter's tape. This is simply to aid in monitoring the plane as it gets close to the line.

This is what the shavings from fairly straight-grained wood looks like ...

https://i.postimg.cc/k4BbvNQB/32.jpg

This is the result when the grain is significantly interlocked ...

https://i.postimg.cc/pX8KSBgj/33.jpg

The case is dovetailed with mitres at each corner. There are two benefits for this: the first is aesthetic; the second is that it permits the panels to be rebated through the full length (otherwise stopped rebates are needed) ...

https://i.postimg.cc/g0Mhht6C/34.jpg

Here is a better glimpse of the grain direction ...

https://i.postimg.cc/RFyns3dG/35.jpg

The case back is done ...

https://i.postimg.cc/cL0tbG7q/27.jpg

The finish we were looking for ...

https://i.postimg.cc/3xT2QvTc/28.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[woodPixel]

-- Spelching
-- Mitred dovetails with through rebates

I learned one new word and one new technique!

I love watching you work. Its incredible.

[derekcohen]

Thanks Evan. You do make my head swell! :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[markharrison]

Mate! As in most other things, you're on another level to my workshop furniture!

486574 486575

This is one of those Czech workbenches that Carbatec used to sell. Nothing special but it does the job.

There was a cabinet that came with it but it was fairly useless so I built the drawers to go inside the original cabinet. Again nothing special. Bunnings plywood, butt joints, screws and biscuits and Tasmanian Oak edge banding. I used hot hide glue rub joints to glue on the edge banding so I would not need to clamp them.

Sanded the drawer faces with a drum sander and the finish is Livos straight off the sander.

I've started reorganising the drawers with tool holders. They are covered in this thread: Tool drawer organisation (https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/tool-drawer-organisation-238863)

I was going to build a board jack but with this I've discovered I do not need one. Between the different drawer heights and handle heights, I pretty much have all my board jack needs covered.

[derekcohen]

The case is a dry fit. Above the case is the outlay of the drawer blades for the drawers. Inside the case is the template (story stick) made to mark out the dados. The dados will be 12mm wide and 6mm deep ...


https://i.postimg.cc/hGZSB0KK/18.jpg


The template is alternated for each side, which ensures that they are marked at exactly the same position ..


https://i.postimg.cc/50ZbHNHG/21.jpg


The knife lines are deepened and undercut with a chisel to create a wall for a saw ..


https://i.postimg.cc/gJXkcSzY/Dado1.jpg


A straight edge is clamped along the knife line, and a kerf is created with an azebiki saw ...


https://i.postimg.cc/BQGQsBd0/Dado3.jpg


The waste can then be removed with a router plane ...


https://i.postimg.cc/fWdT6rqC/Dado4.jpg


Why do it this way, and not use a power router or tablesaw? I believe that I can be more precise with hand tools. This includes the positioning and fine tuning of the dados.


The router plane's depth stop is set to 5mm, and this is reached incrementally ...


https://i.postimg.cc/rmByD1s5/Dado5.jpg


The final 1mm cut (to a depth of 6mm) is made by a smaller router plane ..


https://i.postimg.cc/d0DJnHT8/Dado9.jpg


The reason for this is that, as with a smoother, which follows the undulations of a panel and removes the least about of material, so this small router plane will create an even depth.


The depth is checked ...


https://i.postimg.cc/4xffHNf2/Dado6.jpg


Any waste in the corners is removed with a side rebate plane (this is one from Veritas). be careful not to remove waste from the upper edge as this will change the position of the dado. The side rebate plane is the only plane which can plane along the inside edge of a dado or groove. It is used to increase the width of the dado - but if doing this, only remove waste from the upper edge side of the dado.


https://i.postimg.cc/c4M1J8S8/Dado7.jpg


Test the fit as you go ...


https://i.postimg.cc/T3tRVMhd/Dado8.jpg


Once done ...


https://i.postimg.cc/d0Xwf28g/Dado10.jpg


... the surfaces are sanded to 240 grit. This is an original (!) Festool sander, when it was still "Festo"! I have had this about 25 years. Heavy, but works well for this task.


https://i.postimg.cc/W3kTcd8z/Dado11.jpg


A final test for the accuracy is to align the sides ...


https://i.postimg.cc/J038tS9W/Dado12.jpg


... and then run a drawer blade across both dados ...


https://i.postimg.cc/c1f0D865/Dado13.jpg


Time to glue up :)


Regards from Perth


Derek

[woodPixel]

As an edit to my post above, let me add that sometimes I really DISLIKE your posts....

--> side rebate plane


That has gone and cost me money! I now have a problem I didn't think I had and JUST before Christmas too.... now, how in the world am I going to pull off 'Ol Santa sneaking that into the sack..... :~:~ :C:;

[markharrison]

As an edit to my post above, let me add that sometimes I really DISLIKE your posts....

--> side rebate plane


That has gone and cost me money! I now have a problem I didn't think I had and JUST before Christmas too.... now, how in the world am I going to pull off 'Ol Santa sneaking that into the sack..... :~:~ :C:;

It's not a tool one uses a lot.

McJing have a Luban which is similar to the Record 2506 (I have one of those) for $118.

I have a set of Stanley 98/99 planes as well. Mine are in similar condition to these: Stanley No 98 & 99 Side Rabbet Planes - Tool Exchange (https://www.toolexchange.com.au/product/stanley-no-98-99-side-rabbet-planes-2/) But I would not charge you anything like the near $400 they're asking!

[derekcohen]

As an edit to my post above, let me add that sometimes I really DISLIKE your posts....

--> side rebate plane



That has gone and cost me money! I now have a problem I didn't think I had and JUST before Christmas too.... now, how in the world am I going to pull off 'Ol Santa sneaking that into the sack..... :~:~ :C:;

:U

Try and find a Stanley #79. I have one with an extra fence. These are double-ended (can go both directions), and make excellent sliding dovetail planes as well ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SlidingDovetailsWithTheStanley79.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[woodPixel]

Stop it you rats! :~

[Chief Tiff]

McJing have a Luban which is similar to the Record 2506 (I have one of those) for $118.

IanW did a write up on the Luban back in 2016; read it HERE (https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/adventures-rebate-plane-210608/3?highlight=2506). I own an early US 79 (pre-fence model) and it’s a great piece of kit; I had one of our Guild members using it last week for widening out a groove in a pair of drawer sides instead of trying to fine tune the fence on a 14” table saw to do the same job.

Oh; unashamedly: SQUEAK!

[markharrison]

Stop it you rats! :~

We love you too man! :devilred::devilred:

[derekcohen]

I don't know about you, but I face glueing up with mixed feelings. On the positive side, it is great to have reached a milestone. But then the fears creep in .. will it come together like the dry fit ... what if I get something upside down ... yeah, you know I have done this!


I get everything ready ... glue (Titemark Liquid Hide Glue) and spatula ... clamps ... mallet ... wet rag ...


https://i.postimg.cc/vT25cKyB/G1.jpg


The bench is wiped down and covered in old newspapers ...


https://i.postimg.cc/D0wqfTtH/G2.jpg


Both pin boards receive a generous amount of glue at the same time (all surfaces) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/TYSrxBQN/G3.jpg


No glue is added to the tail board, with the exception of the mitres.


https://i.postimg.cc/8PshqTdr/G4.jpg


The two pin boards are inserted into the mutual tail board, and then the exposed pins receive their glue ...


https://i.postimg.cc/bwt1wLBy/G5.jpg


Lastly, the remaining tail board is attached, and all corners are hammered down ...


https://i.postimg.cc/tRB3Ss6j/G6.jpg


Any glue spills and runs are immediately removed with a wet rag. I have not had a problem with finish doing it this way. I am more concerned that dry glue will act as a barrier to stain or finish, and that removing it will damage the surface.


https://i.postimg.cc/3wQm4psg/G7.jpg


The case is now clamped. Happily, all is square and no adjustments are needed.


https://i.postimg.cc/d0Rd83Fg/G8.jpg


Once dry, the case is checked for square once again. It is necessary to hold one's breath at this point.


All is square ...


https://i.postimg.cc/VvvCQFtc/G9.jpg


... and in all directions ...


https://i.postimg.cc/gJYh4pkj/G10.jpg


Continue breathing.


Time to flatten the outside of the case. The choice of smoother is an HNT Gordon with a 60 degree cutting angle. This low plane will make it easier to plane with the case high on the bench, and it can be pulled for extra leverage ..


https://i.postimg.cc/Qt0TyzHb/G12.jpg


Perhaps sacrilegiously for some, the case is now sanded (80/120/240 grits) as the plan is to stain the wood to match the Jarrah drawer fronts.


https://i.postimg.cc/NFnrgr82/G13.jpg


And then we are done ...


https://i.postimg.cc/QNY7gRLN/G14.jpg


... and ready for the drawer blades.


Regards from Perth


Derek

[markharrison]

At least with hide glue, you get a reasonable open time and foul ups with tricky glue ups are reversible.

[derekcohen]

True, Mark. Longer open time, and reversible ... both needed, and the latter appreciated (don’t ask!). But also, liquid Hide Glue cleans up so easily with water.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Cgcc]

Hi Chris

Not sure I follow this. If the drawers are kept closed where would debris really accumulate from?

Even assuming the more-than-usual dust would work into drawers, an occasion visit with a vacuum (easy to temporarily remove stuff with the bench on top) would be no problem?

[Cgcc]

Thanks again for another great build, Derek

I used my Veritas side rebate plane for a while recently. I think it is an amazing bit of kit and worth the money. I did find though that in trying to make very fine adjustments to a wide board, even though I can't imagine a better facility for switching sides (for coming in from the ends), it was still a bit of a pain. If I come across either a second rebate plane on a discount table I would get it for a left+right pair. They're so small they won't consume appreciable space.

A valuable lesson I learnt is that a fairly flat panel from Bunnings is flat enough for most purposes but not quite flat enough for fine joinery. I was gently shaving the rebate and test fitting a shelf. It was frustrating because a corner would fit in nicely, but not the whole shelf. When I did shave enough to get it in with a little persuasion, I was hoping there would be a super crisp line. There wasn't - fairly hideous gaps on sections and it didn't have that nice, crisp fit you hope for.

The diagnosis was that the shelf had minor undulations, imperceptible to naked eye but perceptible with a ruler and light. The minutely "fat" undulations were what was sticking in the dado and preventing it from going in. Unfortunately when the dado was widened enough to get the "fat" sections in, the "skinny" sections left gaps.

A few swipes with a jack plane just on the section going in the dado would have resolved readily - oh well we learn!

[derekcohen]

We left off with the dados for the drawer blades made and the case glued up ...


https://i.postimg.cc/QNY7gRLN/G14.jpg


The plan was to make the drawer blades, partially fit them, add the drawer dividers, and complete the fitting. Then Christmas came along ...


Measuring the drawer blades had been done. First, a pinch stick obtains the width from inside the dado, and then a template is made with scrap ...


https://i.postimg.cc/3RmfpHLN/DrawerBlades1.jpg


Set the template on the slider ...


https://i.postimg.cc/x8Psx3VS/Drawer-Blades2.jpg


... and cut to size the front- and rear rails ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Jh9dGh5S/DrawerBlades3.jpg


That was just before Christmas ...


https://i.postimg.cc/C50Ps6tN/DrawerBlades4.jpg


Returning today, I thought that it wouldn't hurt to stain the Merbau case to match the Jarrah rails and drawer fronts. By the way, Merbau is also known as Kwila.


As mentioned at the start, the reason for choosing Merbau for this cabinet was simply that it was cheap and already available as a panel. This came with a cost, in that it is not the nicest wood to work with - interlocked and coarse grained. Plus, of course, it is light in colour. The result needs to blend with the Jarrah bench.


https://i.postimg.cc/MTDgcS3w/Stain1.jpg


The first step was to use a grain filler on the outside and inside of the case. The surfaces had already been sanded to 240 grit.


https://i.postimg.cc/D0pDgcKY/Stain2.jpg


The first two coats of the stain were initially mixed with a little methylated spirit, and the concentration increased for two further coats ...


https://i.postimg.cc/pVsgRPnY/Stain3.jpg


With a few loose rails ...


https://i.postimg.cc/qMgW7Wsf/Stain5.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/DyDH456S/Stain4.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

[derekcohen]

We left off with the case complete, dados ready for the drawer blades, and the parts semi-prepared ...


https://i.postimg.cc/DyDH456S/Stain4.jpg


With 10 drawers in 4 rows, there are a goodly number of joints to make for the drawer blades. Typically, these are made with mortice-and-tenon joinery, which has been my method to date. Today I decided to do something different .. use a Festool Domino. I purchased this four years ago to aid in building a multitude of frame-and-panel doors for our kitchen. It did a great job, and then it was retired to a shelf.


The rails for the drawer blades are all 45mm wide x 12mm thick. I used a 6mm x 40mm domino for each join. This is not the dimensions I would have used with M&T, where one tends to follow the 1/3 Rule. A centred 6mm domino leaves 3mm on each side ....


https://i.postimg.cc/KzWcN79p/DB3.jpg


I was concerned whether this would create a stiff and rigid join, and made a couple of test pieces. No problem at all.


Not having any dedicated Domino hold downs, my bench did a sterling job ...


https://i.postimg.cc/kgP4zc7k/DB2.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/VLCvKTPq/DB1.jpg


Flush the joins (not that there was much to flush) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/zBvXK2kR/DB4.jpg


Done x 3 ...


https://i.postimg.cc/vm3Z1w5s/DB5.jpg


Time to fit these. Sliding them in to the ends of the dados ...


https://i.postimg.cc/QdcBdz68/DB6.jpg


These is a large gap to the front of the case ...


https://i.postimg.cc/hGgXz0w9/DB7.jpg


My design calls for a 6mm set back for the drawer fronts. To ensure that this is even around the circumference, this is marked off with the help of blue tape (I really need to take out shares in this product) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/02kxwB25/DB18.jpg




https://i.postimg.cc/02kxwB25/DB18.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/26S3TSCy/DB9.jpg


The last step is to rebate the drawer fronts to move them forward in the dados.


The base is scored with a knife (note that the frames are a tight fit in the dados) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/1zHfpqhb/DB10.jpg


A cutting gauge is set to the line ...


https://i.postimg.cc/d3z1qRrZ/DB11.jpg


Blue tape helps outline the rebate for old eyes. Note that the short side is sawn first. This is to prevent the long sawcut slitting off as the offcut is end grain and weak.


https://i.postimg.cc/2jJ3FYMj/DB13.jpg


The cautious will sawn away from the line, and finish by paring with a chisel. I really do not fancy much paring in this really hard Jarrah, and decided to just saw to the line. The saw gods were smiling on me today ...


[url=https://postimages.org/]https://i.postimg.cc/sxBxdHQR/DB15.jpg


Now the drawer blades can be moved forward into their final position ..


https://i.postimg.cc/sgPXrhX1/DB16.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/9fWfFQRb/DB17.jpg


The next step - for next time - is to begin the sliding dovetail drawer dividers.


Regards from Perth


Derek

[derekcohen]

After making dados, and drawer blades, and then fitting them, comes the vertical drawer dividers. I consider that these are the make-and-break of a chest of drawers. It is tough to get a case square. It is tough to get the the dados positioned correctly. The drawer blades are simple. But then comes the dividers ...


Drawer dividers are needed when there are more than a single drawer in each row. In this cabinet, there are two rows of three drawers and two rows of two drawers. Care in aligning the dividers at the front and rear is necessary to ensure the drawer case is parallel and square if the drawers are to run smoothly.


It is easy enough to attach the dividers with dados. However, this is a less-strong design than attaching them with sliding dovetails. Building sliding dovetails is more complex, but the advantage here is that they tie the drawer blades to the case, making the case more rigid. That is a good thing, especially for a tool cabinet.


This article is about the preparations for the dividers, and the next article will be making them - there are too many photos for a single article.


Issue: drawer blades flex and bow. Accurate marking out needs a stable foundation.


The first step is to make spacers to keep the height even. Start with the ends ...


https://i.postimg.cc/YS4KfvPb/Dividers1.jpg


.. and then move them into the centre ...


https://i.postimg.cc/MHmhKVcK/Dividers2.jpg


The second task is to make templates for spacing out the drawer dividers, similar to the heights for the dados ...


https://i.postimg.cc/nz7yg6pm/Dividers4.jpg


Later, I made these thicker so that they could also aid in ensuring that the dividers were plumb when marking out.


https://i.postimg.cc/T15P0pYM/SD1.jpg


Lastly, for now, the drawer dividers were cut ...


https://i.postimg.cc/hvBkBpt5/Dividers7.jpg


The dovetails will be 3mm deep at each end ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Dwr8RJQ7/SD2.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/Dz5my9YD/SD4.jpg


Onward to the dovetailing .... :)


Regards from Perth


Derek

[derekcohen]

This is the front elevation of the cabinet ...


https://i.postimg.cc/qMZHkPFp/4.jpg


I decided to work on the rear of the chest first .. so I could get in some practice and make my mistakes where they will not be seen!


Much preparation has gone into accurately positioning and marking the sliding dovetail parts for each divider. This was described in the previous post ...


https://i.postimg.cc/T15P0pYM/SD1.jpg




Sliding Dovetail Tails


It is a good place to start. All the dividers are cut to size. These are each 12mm wide x 45mm deep. The heights vary per row, but there are essentially two drawer heights.


The tails will be 3mm deep as the drawer blades are 12mm thick, and two sockets take up 6mm of this.


https://i.postimg.cc/Dwr8RJQ7/SD2.jpg


This is the work area and tools ...


https://i.postimg.cc/gjT6hZsF/extra9.jpg


There is a bench hook for a dozuki, a Stanley #79 side rebate plane converted into a plane for dovetailing, a cutting gauge, a knife and a wide chisel.


The aim is to make dividers like these ...


https://i.postimg.cc/gJ4hY560/extra5.jpg


Begin by marking the shoulders of the dovetails ...


https://i.postimg.cc/rFW1FpGP/SD8.jpg


Ensure these lines are deep. Score them with a knife.


Pencil in the cheeks ...


https://i.postimg.cc/8CQMwLST/extra8.jpg


The pencil is going to act as a "depth gauge" when dovetailing.


The Stanley #79 was originally designed to take a slither off the inside of a groove or a dado. I have modified this one by adding an angle (6:1 ratio) to the depth stop ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Lhd8b2nq/SD5-1.jpg


By running the #79 along the edge, the angled blade will now slice away the cheek at a 6:1 ratio ...


https://i.postimg.cc/0NYm4rkD/extra7.jpg


Look carefully at the beginning of the cheek for a sliver of pencil. This shows what has not been cut to the edge ...


https://i.postimg.cc/DyNqJtpJ/extra4.jpg


Just work that area. One slice is enough. Done ....


https://i.postimg.cc/TwTmvG1S/extra3.jpg


The drawer blade is 45mm wide, of which 20mm contains a tenon from the mortice-and-tenon joint (created with a Domino). The dovetail socket must remain clear of this, and therefore the maximum length of the Tail is 25mm.


The 20mm waste is removed with the dozuki ...


https://i.postimg.cc/W1J0MXx9/extra6.jpg


Result ..


https://i.postimg.cc/sfMPqmMy/SD9.jpg




Sockets


Positioning and marking out the sockets is a aided by a template and blue tape (it would otherwise be impossible to see anything this small in dark wood).


https://i.postimg.cc/K82nKyJv/SD12.jpg


Time for just one example. I have chosen the more difficult dovetailing into the case. From the rear it is possible to excavate into the case, itself. (This is not possible at the front, and blind sockets will be made there).


The divider is positioned with all drawer blades inserted - the drawer blades will be removed once the marking out is complete to permit room to work ... there is a lot of removing and replacing throughout!


https://i.postimg.cc/Cxsbk6QC/SD13.jpg


The tails are marked ...


https://i.postimg.cc/0Qbmg52Z/SD14.jpg


The boundary lines are scored ...


https://i.postimg.cc/hj6mKFXn/SD17.jpg


It is important that the lines are scored from the inside of the square, otherwise they will be in danger of moving to the wrong side.


Similarly, when positioning a sawing guide (also 6:1 angle), ensure that the saw is inside the cut line ...


https://i.postimg.cc/0jSwQtSw/SD18.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/Kc3LJYW8/SD19.jpg


One added advantage of using the saw guide is that accuracy of marking the tails is not critical. The tails are cut at 6:1, and the saw guide just needs the apex of the tails to be marked accurately.


Sawing with the dozuki leaves a triangle of waste at the far end. The kerf can be extended using a razor saw ...


https://i.postimg.cc/VLytT8yB/SD20.jpg


With the sidewall cut, zip out most of the waste with a paring chisel ...


https://i.postimg.cc/J4bXC2Mw/SD22.jpg


Finish to the desired depth with either a router plane ...


https://i.postimg.cc/DwnXvPwS/SD23.jpg


... or the wheel gauge ....


https://i.postimg.cc/Cx7fznRm/SD25-1.jpg


Here is the rear of the case with all the dividers completed ...


https://i.postimg.cc/C1BZPvmQ/SD27.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/mDvP0Qn2/SD28.jpg


The result is a very solid lattice of drawer blades and dividers. Rock solid!


Work has now begun on the front drawer dividers ...


https://i.postimg.cc/VsD91SjF/extra1.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

[derekcohen]

A blind sliding dovetail

This is the front of the cabinet, with all the vertical dividers to install.


https://i.postimg.cc/VsD91SjF/extra1.jpg


The single lower- and the two dividers need to be fitted into a sliding dovetail ... however, unlike the dividers at the rear, this must be from inside the case. In other words, a blind sliding dovetail.


This post will show the steps taken for the lowermost, central divider.


https://i.postimg.cc/44HzF65r/Blind1.jpg


This could not be done without the aid of blue tape. This is used to mark the apex of the tail ...


https://i.postimg.cc/t4NdN95J/Blind2.jpg


This is how the tail will be positioned. Below is where the pin socket has to be cut ...


https://i.postimg.cc/fbWcH12K/Blind3.jpg


A line is scribed at the two apex points, and the dovetailing guide is placed against it ...


https://i.postimg.cc/1t2D3X9C/Blind4.jpg


Very carefully, using the dozuki, saw about 5mm from the boundary line. Be careful not to get closer than this. Saw marks must not show outside the dividers.


https://i.postimg.cc/9Qht9Dys/Blind5.jpg


Do the other side ...


https://i.postimg.cc/FR7jv3Qk/Blind6.jpg


Swing the case around and work from the other side. Use the razor saw to cut up to the boundary line ...


https://i.postimg.cc/QM6pvSvr/Blind7.jpg


Now chop out (shallowly) the trench/dovetail in the same way one would do a hinge mortice ...


https://i.postimg.cc/02gpgzXr/Blind8.jpg


Finish and level the surface to a depth of 3mm (the height of the tails) with a router plane ...


https://i.postimg.cc/W1Tg3Qvv/Blind9.jpg


The result ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Nf1RQQZD/Blind10.jpg


What is difficult to see here is that the trench is fractionally wider in the rear half to allow the tail section to enter, and then slide along.


Unlike the internal tail sections, those used in the blind dovetails require a small beauty rebate ...


https://i.postimg.cc/YCRgmbrm/Blind11.jpg


The divider slides along into position ...


https://i.postimg.cc/q77KcyqD/Blind12.jpg


Why do we go to all this trouble to use sliding dovetails? Well, this is how strong they are ... one hand attempting to lift the case ... neither are budging.


https://i.postimg.cc/YSyWd0mr/Blind13.jpg


Incidentally, I was asked "how does the drawer run between two dividers?". Well, of course it does not - all will have a rail to guide the drawer ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Pxp89Hmm/Blind15.jpg


One the lowermost divider is in, the one above it can be marked ...


https://i.postimg.cc/JnfBWFqS/Blind14.jpg


Progress to date ...


https://i.postimg.cc/mk9Cz4kb/Blind16.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

[woodPixel]

The weight of this would be mighty indeed! It will add mass to that bench :)

The sliding dovetail trick was tricky indeed. So clever. :)

[derekcohen]

Progress report ..

I am pleased to get to this stage, with everything still square ....


... 24 sliding dovetails done.


Only a dry fit - now to glue it together ..


https://i.postimg.cc/SQYvgB3q/Current1.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/FzSC1S31/Current2.jpg

Regards from Perth


Derek

[derekcohen]

It seems so straight forward: build the case, insert drawer frames and dividers, and build the drawers.

Each step actually requires planning ahead. The devil lies is in the details. These are some of the details we take for granted ...

Step one is to plane the fronts of the rails and dividers, and fill in any chips with tinted epoxy.

Even gluing up requires a strategy when the case includes blind sliding dovetails: glue these first.

The benefit of liquid hide glue is extended open time and repairability. I hope that I do not have to make any repairs, but I could do with the open time as it is 40° Celsius today (that's 104° Fahrenheit). I like a small spatula for placing glue where it needs to go.

https://i.postimg.cc/L4b5xdcH/Glue1.jpg

Glue the first set of blind sliding dovetails, and then the other set ...

https://i.postimg.cc/13xtZGR2/glue2.jpg

Finally glue in the other dividers ...

https://i.postimg.cc/VL06TGwX/Glue3.jpg

Lastly, add the drawer guides. These are just glued in. The spring clamps centre them.

https://i.postimg.cc/Nj10GK5M/Glue4.jpg

Once all this is dry, we start to prepare the drawer cases. Each one of these needs to be square at the sides and parallel all the way through.

The planes I find helpful are these: a rebate jack, a rebate block plane, and a low shoulder plane ...

https://i.postimg.cc/LXs4VvvY/Tune1.jpg

For each drawer case there is a drawer-sized insert, generally of MDF or ply. A couple of cross lines aids in determining whether the drawer will be square to the sides.

The "drawer" here does not enter more than an inch or so ...

https://i.postimg.cc/tgp4s9xz/Tune2.jpg

A straight edge along the side reveals that there is a bow ...

https://i.postimg.cc/3Rb8fpbL/Tune3.jpg

The block plane takes this down ..

https://i.postimg.cc/VNgLM29P/Tune4.jpg

... tested with the insert. Looking better ...

https://i.postimg.cc/KjkZ6z6m/Tune5.jpg

A little more planing ... and the insert moves tightly, but smoothly all the way back-and-forth ...

https://i.postimg.cc/WzB2TVVg/Tune6.jpg

Every drawer case is dealt with this way ...

Square edge ..

https://i.postimg.cc/nVgVv4mr/Tune7.jpg

Planing ..

https://i.postimg.cc/fTdz5V7K/Tune8.jpg

Square and insert ...

https://i.postimg.cc/jSrs1RZr/Tune9.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/mgNbfK51/Tune10.jpg

Square and parallel and square ...

https://i.postimg.cc/tgBp7WyX/Tune11.jpg

Every drawer case is tuned this way.

Now we are ready to make drawers :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[derekcohen]

This chapter follows on from "Before the Drawers (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet12.html)", in which I ended stating, "Now we are one step away from making drawers". And now this chapter is that penultimate step ...


I need to explain some of the (as I feel) pedantic details I have been outlining. Firstly, I write this for those who are starting out and those who are seeking ways to increase their accuracy. The steps may not be new to some, but we all like to be reassured that others also find them necessary.


Secondly, I am going to introduce a fixture I built that increases not only accuracy, but speeds up a section of the work. This is the first time I have had a chance to try it in a furniture build.


So what do we need to do today? Well, we need to cut the drawer parts (minus the drawer bottoms) to build the drawers https://www.woodworkforums.com/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7


I spent time selecting the wood for the drawer sides and drawer front-and-back. The sides were jointed and thicknessed by machine, and then stickered for a few days ...


https://i.postimg.cc/JhWN403z/PD1.jpg


The drawer sides are to be 7mm thick, which is more typical of the drawers I build for furniture than a tool cabinet, however the drawers will each house a tray - some sliding and some cantilevered - which effectively doubles the thickness. My aim is to be sturdy but also save space (since the tool cabinet is on the small side, as it must fit under the work bench).


The drawer front is 18mm. The drawer back is 12mm.


For reference, mentioned at the start of the build, the dimensions are:


Dimensions: 660mm x 400mm x 400mm (26" x 15 3/4" x 15 3/4").


Small drawers: 205mm x 70mm (8" x 2 3/4")
Large drawers: 305mm x 95" (12" x 3 3/4")


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_1bba671c.jpg


Time was taken to select the wood for the drawer fronts.


The issue here is that I was not after figure, but constancy of grain and colour (although a little tinting could be done with a latter). Lots of combinations tried ...


https://i.postimg.cc/k4JWKHpr/PD2.jpg


Now to the fixture. Actually, there are two fixtures.


I recently posted a design for a Parallel Guide for a slider table saw (mine is a Hammer K3). This article is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider.html


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider_html_1fdf2a4a.jpg


The other design I posted was for a Micro Adjust for the crosscut fence: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/CrosscutFenceMicroAdjust.html


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/CrosscutFenceMicroAdjust_html_m2c7dfdb0.jpg


These new addictions made sizing the drawer fronts and backs much easier, and quicker.


Generally, I would rip a board to rough size for the drawer front (and back, since they must be an exact copy of each other), and then fine tune it with a shooting board and hand planes. Well, these tools continue to be used, but I can get pretty close to final dimensions on the slider alone. The parallel guide replaces a rip fence, and it is both safer to use as well as leaving a cleaner finish than off a table saw rip fence.


Here is the crosscut fence cutting the width of a drawer front ...


https://i.postimg.cc/HscXwXBL/PD3.jpg


With the use of the Micro Adjuster, it is possible to sneak up on the width and "shoot" it with the table saw, to such fine tolerances only previously capable on a shooting board ...


https://i.postimg.cc/VNBjSw4B/PD4.jpg



Minute adjustments can be made to the cut, with the aim of a tight fit side-to-side.


Once the drawer front is done, it is a simple matter to cut the drawer back using the same setting ..


https://i.postimg.cc/MHXRrQwd/PD5.jpg


Now is the time to rip the height if the drawers fronts and backs (although the drawer backs will receive further shaping at the time of drawer making). This is a test cut. It needs to be repeated for each line of drawers, and checked for each drawer ..


https://i.postimg.cc/fWgYSB7F/PD6.jpg


As mentioned earlier, the aim is a tight fit throughout ...


https://i.postimg.cc/MT9VDYCn/PD7.jpg


Once all are done, comes the time to tune each. The main tool use for the upper edge is a shooting board ...


https://i.postimg.cc/8c3W8zPD/PD8.jpg


Ensure one side fits smoothly ...


https://i.postimg.cc/fTGXByrf/PD9.jpg


... and the other ...


https://i.postimg.cc/MGDQ6DK9/PD10.jpg


The ends need some tuning as well. This is to remove a smidgeon here-and-there, to ease a section where the sides may be touching or even jamming. It may require a shaving, or just dust. The tool of choice here is a block plane.


https://i.postimg.cc/k59SPZ9V/PD11.jpg


My aim here is a smooth fit - not loose but not tight: at the end, after the dovetailing is done and the sides are glued together, I want the drawer to dry in the drawer case. Therefore, it needs to be able to fit. I expect to do a little tuning still, but the aim now is to prepare for this fit.


The drawer back needs to be tuned up identically to the drawer front - the smidgeon "here-and-there" included. So, clamp the parts together ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Bn2FysW9/PD12.jpg


I prefer a sharp, wide chisel to pare away the excess waste from the drawer back ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Tw3WpDKf/PD13.jpg


This leaves the fronts and backs ready, so ...


https://i.postimg.cc/wv4RJjNJ/PD14.jpg


The last task is to saw the drawer sides. This is made a quick job by the parallel guide, and using the drawer fronts as a template.


Once side of a drawer front will dimension the height of that drawer side ...


https://i.postimg.cc/904RBHPk/PD15.jpg


Rip it ...


https://i.postimg.cc/prg9GcqL/PD16.jpg


Test the fit in the drawer case. Any tight spots can be removed with a shooting board or block plane. This is what we are after ...


https://i.postimg.cc/RC8nZq4x/PD17.jpg


... and eventually ...


https://i.postimg.cc/15qVnP3n/PD18.jpg


Now we are ready to start dovetailing. https://www.woodworkforums.com/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7


Regards from Perth


Derek

[derekcohen]

Bill and I have been discussing drawer-making. We have different approaches since our target audience is a different group. Bill is better aligned with production work, aiming to build a drawer as quickly as possible. He is less concerned with aesthetics (although his work always looks exceptionally good) and more focussed on finding shortcuts to increase speedier construction. My work is aimed at being the best I can, with a focus on traditional construction completed to as near perfection as I can muster (which sounds grander in words than in practice!).


I argue that my drawer-making is quite speedy. The speed comes from minimising unnecessary tasks by planning ahead. This is not immediately apparent in that I use techniques that appear to add extra work. In actual effect, they reduce errors and thereby reduce the time required to tune or repair joinery. My aim is to get it as right as possible - immediately. One example if this is that I do not check whether the drawer is square after glue up ... because the drawer will dry in the drawer case, and so fitting the drawer case is what is important.


Now the issue about fitting the drawer case is that this is only possible if the dovetailing is a flush fit, and ready to go into the drawer case. It is expected to be a tightish fit, which will need to receive just a small amount of final tuning. The level of expertise involved here is not really that high; it is more about the approach. I believe anyone can do the same, and this is the motivation to write this chapter. I am sure that Bill will likely do the same ... I look forward to learning from his approach, adding technique to my own.


The discussion started when Bill questioned why I had cut all the drawer parts (sans the drawer bottom) for this cabinet ...


https://i.postimg.cc/15qVnP3n/PD18.jpg


Bill makes one drawer at a time. He does this as he is concerned the wood will move .. warp or twist .. if it is allowed to rest. My argument is that speed comes from massed repetition: returning to saw all the parts separately is slow. I do not fear the drawer sides moving as I use quarter sawn timber for drawer sides, which is very stable. The wood here is Tasmanian Oak (which is actually an Australian Eucalyptus).


The drawer-making process is divided into three stages: first comes the (half-blind) dovetailing of the sides to the front. The groove or slips for the drawer bottom is added later.


Secondly, the drawer back is (through) dovetailed to the sides. This relies on the height of the groove, and the reason it is completed later and not up front.


Thirdly, the drawer bottom is made and inserted.


What I wish to demonstrate here is the first stage: dovetailing the front to the sides.


Here are the parts. The Tassie Oak sides are 1/4” (6.35mm) thick and the Jarrah front is 3/4” (18mm).


https://i.postimg.cc/nrG4fLtj/D1.jpg


The inside face of the drawer sides is planed to remove any machine marks ...


https://i.postimg.cc/wT95cDhh/D2.jpg


We will cut Tails First, so mark the tail board ...


https://i.postimg.cc/yYnmfWP2/D3.jpg


To speed marking of the tails, a template (or story stick) is made. This will set out the tails for the top two rows, six drawers in all.


https://i.postimg.cc/qqTsF3WH/D4.jpg


The tails are sawn. Note that there is a line of blue tape to help my aging eyes know when to stop cutting!


https://i.postimg.cc/NG67Hdrs/D5.jpg


An important step is to undercut the baselines. This will increase accuracy when paring ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Pqv1ryjk/D6.jpg


Fretsaw the waste as close to the baseline as possible. I generally leave about 1mm ...


https://i.postimg.cc/wjvhnH4M/D7.jpg


Saw away the half sockets at each side, as usual. But now possible to set the chisel in the chisel wall and use a single down stroke to sever all the waste in the internal sockets, leaving the tail board done.


Mark the web on the drawer front. For 18-19mm drawer fronts, I keep make this 5mm wide.


https://i.postimg.cc/nz8BsmF9/D9.jpg


Once again, to aid visibility, blue tape is applied to underline the baseline ...


https://i.postimg.cc/mDQM7rkX/D10.jpg


... and the pins. Here it extends to the web line ...


https://i.postimg.cc/VvgCHHjX/D11.jpg


This next bit is extremely important, and can make-or-break the final result. The tails are transferred to the pin board. A single bevel knife is preferred. This will hug the wall of the socket, and slice the tape in a single stroke.


Secondly, the tail board is held firmly by a clamp, and is positioned squarely using a combination square. The square is placed along the reference edge, which is the lower edge of the drawer side. This will switch when the other side is marked out. The importance of this technique cannot be overstated: a squared joint is a prerequisite for a perfect fit. Anything that is not square will require planing, and a lot more tuning.


https://i.postimg.cc/Xq45L0yV/D12.jpg


Below is the result of sawing to the line (is the sawing is more accurate than the dropped lines :) In practice, the dropped lines are unnecessary if you have a decent sense of plumb) ....


https://i.postimg.cc/BZBH6tdt/D13.jpg


Another time saver comes in the form of deepening the kerfs. This is my version of Tage Frid’s scraper method, a “kerfing chisel”.


https://i.postimg.cc/3JrpDYT1/D15.jpg

[derekcohen]

With the kerfs deepened, remove all the blue tape, and deepen the base lines ...


https://i.postimg.cc/qMmKsSBT/D16.jpg


Undercut the baselines to create a chisel wall for each socket ...


https://i.postimg.cc/nhCD02MQ/D17.jpg


Chisel in the chisel wall and three moderately firm hammer blows. The chisel wall prevents the chisel moving backwards and over the baseline. This means that chiseling can start at the baseline, itself, and reduces later extra paring ...


https://i.postimg.cc/dVpTXCTN/D18.jpg


Split out the waste ...


https://i.postimg.cc/bvn2jvxy/D19.jpg


With hard Jarrah and a decent Japanese chisel, it takes me three rows to get within 3mm (1/8”) of the web line. I stop at this point ...


https://i.postimg.cc/76yJPy9g/D20.jpg


This is repeated at the other end of the board ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Hx4cVPvF/D21.jpg


Back to the Moxon Vise: the sockets are cleared by paring the remainder in 1mm slices ..


https://i.postimg.cc/nrFs7Y6r/D22.jpg


Cleaning out the socket was facilitated by earlier extending the kerfs, and now with a corner chisel ...


https://i.postimg.cc/SRgnGYhr/D23.jpg


It is all about “release cuts”, as David Charlesworth has written in his articles over the years. Create a release cut, and waste will fall away without a fight. The deepened kerfs mean that there is no further paring needed at the sides of the sockets. Clearing the waste is a matter of splitting it out. The chopping is a release cut here.


Finally! The dovetailed sides are tapped into the sockets of the drawer front. The goal here is that they fit “off the saw”, and no further work is needed? Note that the small section here does not only protect the surface, but it ensures it is driven flush ...


https://i.postimg.cc/8k4fG966/D24.jpg


How did we do? Here is one side ...


https://i.postimg.cc/gk0X2sVB/D25.jpg


And here is the other side with the “drawer” inserted into the drawer case ...


https://i.postimg.cc/sD0BQWKf/D27.jpg


The drawer can be pushed flush into the drawer case, which was the target at the start ...


https://i.postimg.cc/0yMzpNHY/D28.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

[delbs]

One of the best threads on this forum imho. Should seriously consider self publishing it into a book ;)

Jealous of all the timber your able to use for this build. So so nice.

Sent from my Nokia 5.3 using Tapatalk

[derekcohen]

One of the best threads on this forum imho. Should seriously consider self publishing it into a book ;)

Jealous of all the timber your able to use for this build. So so nice.

Sent from my Nokia 5.3 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the kind thought.

The case is made from cheap Merbau panels from Bunnings. Stained to match the Jarrah drawer fronts .... a couple of boards - which were easier to access from Bunnings as well.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[woodPixel]

Shhhh ... Dont mention the B-word!

These must have been smuggled by a far-travelled friends acquaintance, from an exotic continent and obtained under the harshest conditions. Great risks were taken!

[derekcohen]

Shhhh ... Dont mention the B-word!

These must have been smuggled by a far-travelled friends acquaintance, from an exotic continent and obtained under the harshest conditions. Great risks were taken!

I meant to say that they were obtained at midnight under a full moon on Rottnest Island, and I swam them back in 6 hours to Fremantle, getting in the early hours of the morning to avoid the coast guard. Only had to fight off two Bull Sharks and a small, 3m Great White. Easy Peasy. :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[derekcohen]

I recently wrote that I aim to build as best as I can. Sometimes it does not go well at all :(


I make two repairs today. Usually, the mistakes I make are as I get spatially challenged, and cut the wrong side of the board. The first one here was being a little over-enthusiastic with a block plane when trimming a drawer front (a few days ago). The problem is difficult to detect from a distance ...


https://i.postimg.cc/NMyGGbTW/R1.jpg


... but close up .... !


https://i.postimg.cc/yYC6BmNb/R2.jpg


Damn. The drawer front is part of a set of three. It cannot simply be replaced. One also cannot glue a filler to the side of the board.


But one can add a filler to the drawer divider ...


https://i.postimg.cc/W4YbPxDG/R3.jpg


Here it is glued proud ...


https://i.postimg.cc/NGHGWJQX/R4.jpg


When trimmed flush, it is nearly invisible. With a coat of finish, it will be ...


https://i.postimg.cc/FsbrKYds/R5.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/156xHXph/R8.jpg


The second fix was this ... after all the mention I made about the importance of a combination square to ensure the side was square to the drawer front ... well, one got away from me. When I placed the three sides on a flat surface, the far end of one side was about 3mm high.


This was the fix. Can you spot the repair?


https://i.postimg.cc/j2PsP5Mc/R6.jpg


Eagle eyes will note that there is a light line. This is where a triangular fillet was glued in, and planed flush (The corresponding top side needed to be planed down to fit inside the drawer case).


https://i.postimg.cc/mD0LPMyh/R7.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Chief Tiff]

I meant to say that they were obtained at midnight under a full moon on Rottnest Island, and I swam them back in 6 hours to Fremantle, getting in the early hours of the morning to avoid the coast guard


I reckon your minor errors were the result of a vicious curse..... by quokkas :oo:.

NEVER trust a species that smile all the time; they're hiding something.

[derekcohen]

Perhaps I need to explain the title, "Dovetailing for Blood". In part, the description comes from a book, "Backgammon for Blood", by Peter Becker I read about 4 decades ago. It's about taking the game to the most competitive level. This series of articles is not a how-to about dovetailing; it is about the strategies I use when building drawers. I offer them for discussion and your interest.


https://i.postimg.cc/rwp6cXBJ/D2-1.jpg


This is the drawer in question.


In the previous article, the focus was on strategies for connecting the drawer front and drawer sides via half-blind dovetails. The aim there - and continued here - is to complete the dovetailing in such as way that the drawer may be glued up, and dry inside the drawer case. The advantage of drying inside the drawer case is that a good fit is assured.


Today the drawer back needs to be attached with through dovetails.


https://i.postimg.cc/FR38G9S9/D2-2.jpg


For interest, here are the chisels I used: Kiyohisa slicks and Koyamaichi dovetail.


https://i.postimg.cc/QdY2dYsr/D2-3.jpg


Noticeable in the drawer above is that there are no grooves for the drawer bottom. These will now be added using a plough plane and a sticking board to hold the work...


https://i.postimg.cc/SKXw2LNY/D2-4.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/BvdRx8XY/D2-5.jpg


The drawer sides are around 7mm at this stage, with the expectation that they will end up at 6mm. The inside and outside faces have been planed. The groove is 3mm deep ...


https://i.postimg.cc/brPMBK01/D2-6.jpg


The groove in the 18mm thick drawer front is 6mm deep ...


https://i.postimg.cc/d39XP4np/D2-7.jpg


The drawer back receives a shallow groove ...


https://i.postimg.cc/dQRgyVv6/D2-8.jpg


Reason?


The drawers are designed for a tool cabinet. Unlike drawers for the home, where the backs are lowered, these drawers will have a full rear, in height, ending at the drawer bottom. We start with drawer backs exactly the same dimensions as the drawer front. The lower section needs to be removed. The top of the groove marks this position.


The waste is removed on the table saw, a smidgeon grace ...


https://i.postimg.cc/tCXwtG4j/D2-9.jpg


... and the machine marks then planed away.


It needs to be stated that drawers are not the same as boxes. While they may both be dovetailed, the drawer width is determined by width of the drawer case. It cannot be larger or be smaller. The drawer front and back are made as a pair, and their dimensions are not permitted to be altered.


With boxes, one can leave dovetails proud, and then level them to the sides. Or one may level the sides to the dovetails. You cannot do this with drawers, especially if the game plan is to aim for the glued up drawer drying in the drawer case. Consequently, the dovetails must end up flush with the surface ....


https://i.postimg.cc/RVX8gpWn/D2-10.jpg


We move over to dovetailing the rear:


The first step, with 6 drawers of the same height and width, is to make a template for the spacing of the dovetails.


https://i.postimg.cc/gJLmpF65/D2-10A.jpg


While the template stretches across the board, the area of importance is above the drawer bottom.


Mark out the tails, as usual, but then flip the board so that you are sawing from the inside of the drawer ...


https://i.postimg.cc/3xqqTyC8/D2-11.jpg


Again, this is not a box. The inside of a drawer is seen, and it is important to keep the baseline as clean as possible, that is, no over-sawing.


Similarly, when removing the waste with a chisel, start with the outside face of the drawer, and finish with the inside. That way there is less danger of inadvertently chiseling over the baseline.


https://i.postimg.cc/4yzGK6PQ/D2-12.jpg


Now ... the interesting part comes with transferring tails to pins. This can make-or-break the drawer.


https://i.postimg.cc/vmNbCHDf/D2-13.jpg


Here we see the tail and pin boards aligned. But are they?


https://i.postimg.cc/7YnDwNfx/D2-14.jpg


A square shows that the side is out at least 1-2mm at 300mm (12").


https://i.postimg.cc/x8rYTxvd/D2-15.jpg


Left like this, the drawer will not sit flat. It will act as if it has a twist. Significant efforts will need to be made to align the drawer in the case. It becomes essential that the side is aligned accurately. This can be a little fiddly, but a long square helps considerably ...


https://i.postimg.cc/kgMC4tbW/D2-16.jpg


At some point, someone will mention the side-alignment fixture designed by David Barron. This is a wonderful concept, however it excels at making boxes and not drawers. Look here ...


The tail and pin boards are not aligned at the square ends (which would enable David's fixture to be used). They are aligned on the reference side, which is the lower edge of the drawer sides. You are aligning from the left side of these boards ...


https://i.postimg.cc/XY2by7fm/D2-19.jpg


Having transferred and sawn the tails, the bulk of the waste is removed with a fretsaw (as detailed before). Here is a reminder - first chop out the waste from the outside face, half way down ...


https://i.postimg.cc/SKbPS2Y4/D2-22A.jpg


... and then complete from the show-inside face.


My preference is to angle the chisel slightly away and create a "tent" ...


https://i.postimg.cc/MG0Fv61Q/D2-22B.jpg


This is then removed with a slicing paring action, again form each side to the centre ...


https://i.postimg.cc/26zXWsxX/D2-22c.jpg


Use a narrow chisel to pare the ends: having first sawn these away, the remnants for paring lie above the chisel walls (again discussed in a previous article) ..


https://i.postimg.cc/LswFNC0V/D2-21.jpg


This is what we are after: flat ...


https://i.postimg.cc/J0WVWy8D/D2-23.jpg


Dry fit ...


https://i.postimg.cc/C5HyMFMv/D2-24.jpg


The drawer must fit the drawer case ...


https://i.postimg.cc/qB8HxGc8/D2-25.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/4NskLhwj/D2-26.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/J4xw9420/D2-27.jpg


It does, but we are not finished. More in a while ..


Regards from Perth


Derek

[derekcohen]

The aim is to glue up the assembled drawer and let it dry in the drawer case.

This drawer fits ...

https://i.postimg.cc/qB8HxGc8/D2-25.jpg

... however it is a tight squeeze and I know that there are issues which need to be corrected before glue is applied. It is the same for every drawer.

Each drawer needs to go through an assessment, trouble-shooting for issues, until the drawer moves smoothly.

I need to point out at this stage that, although drawers are made in batches (a row), each drawer is fitted, tuned, and glued up before assembling the next drawer. At this stage, six (of ten) drawers have been completed to this stage. There is one further stage after this chapter.

So we pull the drawer out of the case. It comes out with effort. The sides twist slightly - I can feel one side is moving more freely than the other. Something is causing it to hang up.

Examining the half-blind dovetails, the first item of note is that there is a slightly raised pin ...

https://i.postimg.cc/dVt4Bbkb/D3-1.jpg

Since the drawer is a dry fit, it is a simple matter to knock it apart to make any fixes.

The pin is planed flat.

I note that the one drawer side sits a little proud at the underside, about 1mm ... maybe not even that much ..

https://i.postimg.cc/R0WGrwTG/D3-2.jpg

This is also planed down.

The drawer back is presented to the case opening ...

https://i.postimg.cc/5ySS5gx9/D3-3.jpg

It is a tight fit now. It will be a tighter fit later if there is moisture in the air. The drawer back is removed and the height planed down by about 1mm. Re-assembled,
the sides now are higher ...

https://i.postimg.cc/jjBcRCgT/D3-4.jpg

The sides are planed to the side height ...

https://i.postimg.cc/nrJ1Qgfw/D3-5.jpg

I can still feel a little more stickiness on one side. Are the sides flat, or has there a cup developed to create a high spot?

Yes. Slight but it is there ...

https://i.postimg.cc/1t6HXP2q/D3-6.jpg

Plane this flat. Just a few thin shavings ...

https://i.postimg.cc/VLzRfxRJ/D3-7.jpg

Now the drawer is moving well - it feels taut, but free.

The case is waxed, not so much at this stage to promote ease of movement, but to prevent any glue adhering to the sides ..

https://i.postimg.cc/3J9ZdtSn/D3-8.jpg

Now we are ready to glue the drawer parts. Here are the items involved ...

https://i.postimg.cc/sgX4S5by/D3-9.jpg

I am using Titebond Liquid Hide Glue. I like that it has a longer open time, that it is reversible, repairable, and cleans up with water. There is a spatula for application, a fishtail chisel handy if a corner needs to be cleaned, a small mallet, and a wet rag.

The hide glue is decanted into a small bottle ...

https://i.postimg.cc/pd5QcR26/D3-10.jpg

This small bottle is a game changer! I was watching Rob Cosman and noted that he used small bottles as well. I found a bunch on eBay. What they do is let you deposit glue in exactly the spot you want to do, and then the spatula lets you spread it around.

I only glue one side of the joint, but there is enough for both sides ...

https://i.postimg.cc/sgN9JvRW/D3-11.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/V6yq3pvL/D3-12.jpg

It is important that the sides are seated flush ...

https://i.postimg.cc/dQ26Ks8M/D3-13.jpg

The drawer looks good ...

https://i.postimg.cc/P53KFS1P/D3-14.jpg

... and, importantly, slides into the case smoothly and firmly.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[derekcohen]

One of the least pleasurable areas of drawer making is fitting drawer bottoms. Why? Because there always seems more to do than anticipated - there are more panels to machine to thickness and area, and this feels like it is endless. Mindless.


Before starting on the bottoms, the drawer fronts are planed, chipped dovetails repaired, and fine-tuning of the bottom-less drawer is completed ...


https://i.postimg.cc/nrjKbZgg/Bottoms20.jpg


Link to the fixture here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/DrawerPlaningFixture.html


One of the rules I set for myself at the start of this project was that, being a just for the workshop, I would use as much scrap or cheap wood as I could scrounge up. The Jarrah drawer fronts are the exception. The case is Merbau stained to match the Jarrah drawer fronts.


Over various projects, I save bits which I think may be used ... don't we all :) For now, offcuts of Tasmanian Oak, which make great drawer sides and drawer bottoms.


Modern machines, such as jointers and thicknesser/planers, enable the redesign of cabinet parts. In this case, drawer bottoms. One can use the minimum thickness, saving weight and wood.


I am very fortunate to own a Hammer A3-31, which turns the scrap into usable boards ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Y0sXYdBK/Bottoms1.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/vH42bw5Q/Bottoms2.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/bwb6S06W/Bottoms3.jpg


These boards ended up a smidgeon over 5mm thick. The grooves in the drawer sides are 5mm wide and 3mm deep. The drawer sides are 6-7mm thick.


Joining such thin boards is quite easy - no clamps used. Just blue tape :)


Butt two boards, and stretch the tape across the join. The blue tape has some flex to it, and the stretch contracts and pulls the joint tight ...


https://i.postimg.cc/BvBMMSfC/Bottoms4.jpg


Do this with all the joins, and then lay a strip down the seam (which is to prevent glue squeezing out ...


https://i.postimg.cc/sDb62HJ5/Bottoms5.jpg


Flip the boards and insert glue into the seam. Wiggle the boards open-and-closed to spread it evenly.


https://i.postimg.cc/nLJ34sgz/Bottoms6.jpg


Lay flat and wipe away the glue (Titebond II) squeeze out with a wet rag. Freshen this for each join.


https://i.postimg.cc/d1Qnfbqc/Bottoms7.jpg


Yes, I know many warn against this practice, but I have not experienced any problem with finishes. Once clean, tape the side to hold the joins tightly together ...


https://i.postimg.cc/sXnKCTXQ/Bottoms8.jpg


The machining and glueing takes all day, and finally ...


https://i.postimg.cc/y6QpM8gQ/Bottoms-9.jpg


Of course - Murphy's Law - the next day I discover that I am going to be one drawer short, and more offcuts are found and glued together. Smaller pieces this time ...


https://i.postimg.cc/tJYkqFZr/Bottoms10.jpg


Then it is time to unwrap the presents and make a blue tape Christmas tree ...


https://i.postimg.cc/tJw5Y7F9/Bottoms11.jpg


The drawer bottoms are roughly sized, and the top side is sanded to 240 grit (the underside will not be seen, so just leave it be) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/BZVNh7kR/Bottoms12.jpg


Why sand? Well, it is just easier. The panels are curvy, not flat, and would be too awkward to hand plane. This is what sanders are for. What I have here is a Mirka Ceros, which uses Abranet mesh. Hooked up to a vacuum cleaner, the result is the closest thing to dustless sanding.


One edge on the underside receives a very shallow rebate. This is to enable the panel to fit the groove. The plane here is a Veritas skew block plane, which has a nicker as it is planing across the grain. It has a fence and a depth stop. Great little plane ..


https://i.postimg.cc/7YJ9jMyh/Bottoms13.jpg


The width of the panel is measured. Note that the drawer bottom runs across the drawer (expansion then takes place front-to-back) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Mpk5wMWD/Bottoms14.jpg


After ripping to size on the table saw, fine tuning takes place with a shooting board ...


https://i.postimg.cc/SxWrxSRp/Bottoms15.jpg


Time to fit the drawer bottom.


Of course, if it is too tight, it will not run smoothly. But even if it appears to run smoothly, it can be creating a potential problem.


In the earlier chapters (Dovetailing for Blood), one aim was to make the dovetails an exact depth so that the newly glued drawer could dry in the drawer case. The other aim was to fine tune the drawer (minus the drawer bottom) to move smoothly in the drawer case. Now, if when adding the drawer bottom, the smoothness is lost, then we know that something is wrong.


So, the drawer bottom is dropped part way ...


https://i.postimg.cc/vmbv1Jxx/Bottoms16.jpg


... and this is presented to the drawer case at this point. Will it run as smoothly as before?


https://i.postimg.cc/k5svWTW1/Bottoms17.jpg


If the drawer appears to have tightened in the case, the problem may be that the sides are slightly bowed. Try tapping the sides to push them flat ...


https://i.postimg.cc/4d3bPp5J/Bottoms18.jpg


The drawer bottom is lowered further, and again tested for fit ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Jnd32t6j/Bottoms19.jpg


All good, and the bottom is tapped into the groove behind the drawer front. A good fit :)


https://i.postimg.cc/Y056tZw9/Bottoms21.jpg


Slips are a traditional way of reinforcing thin drawer sides to increase the surface area and reduce wear over time to the runners. Usually when making slips, I would groove the slip rather than, as here, the drawer side.


Here is one of Richard Jones' wonderful illustrations ...


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/DrawerDesignandDrawerBottoms_html_4ce48252.jpg


I decided to do something a little different this time. I am not sure whether this can be termed a true slip, but it functions exactly the same way. The drawer sides have a shallow 3mm groove. To support the thin drawer side, as well as support the drawer, a 6mm square Jarrah section was glued to the drawer side directly under the drawer bottom. Care was taken to allow the drawer bottom to remain free to move.


https://i.postimg.cc/mZJN3zFs/Bottoms22.jpg


Drawer stops were added ...


https://i.postimg.cc/4xT6MD52/Bottoms23.jpg


All the drawers fit and move smoothly ...


https://i.postimg.cc/SN9LgSWz/Bottoms24.jpg


And this is what it looks like at present ...


https://i.postimg.cc/kgFQdTYJ/Bottoms25.jpg


Of course, there is the case back to make, and the handles to fit .... and then the fun bit begins - fitting out each of the 10 drawers for tools. Lots to do still.


Regards from Perth


Derek

[woodPixel]

Derek, your posts are incredible. The information I extract from them is ... fantastic. Detail, nuance, useful.

Many superlatives, but you deserve all.


BTW, love drawer slips. I love them - they show quality.


Lastly - with the drawer stops, how do you ensure they are exactly right? In the past Ive added a screw to the back of my drawers... wind it in/out to get the depth stop perfect. With the wood blocks, are these trimmed somehow?

[derekcohen]

...
Lastly - with the drawer stops, how do you ensure they are exactly right? In the past Ive added a screw to the back of my drawers... wind it in/out to get the depth stop perfect. With the wood blocks, are these trimmed somehow?

That is such a good question!

And my simple method may not be the best, but it works for me. What I do is use a cutting gauge set to the thickness of the drawer front, and add the amount wanted for recess (if this is wanted). Now score a line inside the drawer case. That is where the stop block will be positioned (the stop block needs to be lower that the underside of the drawer bottom). A little glue gets it fixed. One can add a screw at this point if satisfied with the position.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[derekcohen]

These are final pictures of Stage One. "Stage One" - what does that mean? Well, the first step is to build the cabinet under the bench. The second stage will be to fit out the drawers for the tools. I plan to do some of the latter shortly, and some later. I will post these as they are done. For now, here is the underbench cabinet ...


The rear, before the back was installed ...


https://i.postimg.cc/L8vQHNML/3.jpg


The front. The ring pulls are antiqued brass (they are not shiny). I need to work them a little more to remove the still-new look. These were chosen as they drop down and do not project out from the front of the cabinet ...


https://i.postimg.cc/mZFnQYQW/2a.jpg


Under the bench ...


https://i.postimg.cc/xdCxqM07/4.jpg


The bench top received a little flattening, and a single coat of danish oil ...


https://i.postimg.cc/V60KWw0W/5.jpg


Someone is sure to ask why the cabinet is low. The answer is that there needs to be space for hold downs ...


https://i.postimg.cc/T1rQBc9y/9.jpg


The drawers manage about 90% extension ...


https://i.postimg.cc/L8m0KGGm/6.jpg


One of the first fit outs will involve this set of Kiyohisa bench chisels I have been collecting one-by-one (these are no longer available) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/W4H9Zzz4/7.jpg


And here is one of the small drawers ...


https://i.postimg.cc/WzRX9yML/8.jpg


Thanks for supporting the build to date. Hopefully there were some aspects that will prove helpful.


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Chief Tiff]

Very nice, and looking forward to see how you tackle fitting out the drawers.

:2tsup:

[Cklett]

Thanks for sharing the process in such detail. Has definately proven helpful to me in some of my more humble projects.

That cabinet is amazing and am looking forward to the fit out as well.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[jpdv]

Exquisite work Derek, but just one comment. The handles don't do your execution justice - they look (to me) a little out of place for the overall appearance of the bench/cabinet. The rest of the design is very masculine, they have a feminine/hoop ear-ring appearance...

Have you considered classic campaign chest handles?
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRNgSHlQTzqEG4ayzhUKy-T_mJVCbKFJB6yig&usqp=CAUhttps://doyle.com/sites/default/files/styles/auction_slider/public/images/lots/2007-01-24/549529.jpg?itok=gkOnhHzi
I reckon that would look better, and be completely flush - but restate, this is no comment on your workmanship!

[derekcohen]

I did consider the handles used in campaign chests. They were my first choice, and I have used them before (I started building campaign furniture before Chris Schwarz made this genre popular).

Two chests used as a stand for TV ...

https://i.postimg.cc/rsXwydZs/Campaign-Chests.jpg

The issue with these handles is that the smallest available is too large for the drawers of the underbench cabinet. Just that simple. The smallest handle is around 2 1/2" high (roughly 65mm), and the high of the smaller drawers is 70mm. The result would look awful! :C

The handles I used actually look right after a little while, once you take in the whole bench ... notice how the rings link with the sliding deadman. Lastly, the brassy look is going to be toned down chemically, and the rings will be less dramatic and more subdued.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[jpdv]

Aha! You were way ahead of me... :)

[woodPixel]

I like the hoops.

It suits, adding a nice posh element.

Plus, they look good to reef upon :)

[wood spirit]

Stop making stuff for the shed. Make it for the house or clients. -the missus will be much happier. TOO pretty for shed !!!!:clap3:

[derekcohen]

The underbench cabinet is done ....


https://i.postimg.cc/xdCxqM07/4.jpg


... and now the drawers are being filled, starting with the centre drawer in the top row.


There are 10 drawers in all, and the aim is to use the space as efficiently as possible. Into this cabinet will be those tools I want close at hand, and to access readily.


https://i.postimg.cc/L51x7JNv/Drawer1.jpg


The centre drawers in the top two rows are for marking tools. The top drawer will be for squares I use all the time.


Opening the drawer produces a 300mm Starrett combination square, a 150mm Starrett double square, and a Veritas Sliding Square. these are french fitted into a Jarrah panel (more on the french fitting shortly). ...


https://i.postimg.cc/xTLs3bk1/Drawer2.jpg


Now you know how I like secret drawers :) - well, if you slide this panel back ...


https://i.postimg.cc/nVyRm1hW/Drawer3.jpg


... you find the treasure drawer with a pair of Colen Clenton mitre squares infilled in Sheoak, and pair of Chris Vesper 4" and 7" squares infilled in Tasmanian Blackwood, and a 2x2" Bridge City saddle square ...


https://i.postimg.cc/8kJXsYNW/Drawer4.jpg


The Jarrah panel for the latter squares is a loose fit, snug at the sides and about 5mm of expansion space at the end. At the right side of the photo are the rails, which were glued to the sides (but not the loose panel)


https://i.postimg.cc/2Sm0c8vF/Drawer5.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/13HJLhrx/Drawer8.jpg


Below is the upper panel for the Starretts and Veritas squares. The panel needed to be thin - it is 6mm thick - and cut outs made rather than french fitted. This was to save space by having the tools handing down rather than sticking up.


https://i.postimg.cc/q7DQvsFj/Drawer6.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/N0jptJdK/Drawer7.jpg


The eagle eyed will have noticed that the rear of the drawer was cut away. This was to allow for the upper tray to slide past the drawer back, which takes advantage of the space behind the drawer when it is opened.


There was a little extra shaping as the body of the Veritas hung down lower than the other squares.


https://i.postimg.cc/tT1kZ1Qy/Drawer9.jpg


The upper tray runs on the Jarrah rails attached to the inside of the drawer sides. Finally, there is a rail added above the tray to prevent it tipping as it is slid back. This is in the same Tasmanian Oak as the drawer sides.


The drawer manages about 90% extension without any support.


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Chief Tiff]

One down; nine to go! Looks like you’ll be clearing a fair amount of your tool wall?

[tony_A]

Thanks for taking the trouble to post this build Derek. I like the idea of what you have done here and this will be an excellent resource when I get around to to building my own under bench storage.

[derekcohen]

One down; nine to go! Looks like you’ll be clearing a fair amount of your tool wall?

Yep ... that is why some of the tools are appearing for sale here. Ideally (unlikely!), the cabinet will store all I need. It is a nice fantasy :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[woodPixel]

Careful. A museum might come and forcefully requisition your Nationally Important Artifact .....

[IanW]

Yep .... Ideally (unlikely!), the cabinet will store all I need. It is a nice fantasy :)
...

A nice fantasy indeed, and it would be very interesting to watch the maestro going through his current collection of tools, mercilessly culling & culling until the reminder all fit in that box! That cabinet is a tour de force of cabinetry, Derek, and should be pretty capacious with all your little space-saving trickery, but unless you have secretly mastered Tardis technology, where is the other 75% of your tool collection going to live?! :D

Being a couple of years ahead of you in this retirement business, I started a vaguely similar exercise some years ago. At the time, one option floated was to go to one of those retirement village type places, which would have meant very limited space for my activities (shudder! I think the look on my face put that idea on a back-burner).

But about that time, I wanted a smaller bench to drag off to wood shows because the “portable” bench I’d made for such purposes kept gaining weight through some strange physics-defying process. For this project I took on a few extra challenges, one being to see if I could incorporate a full set of all-wood vises, front, tail & twin-screw in a space about 900 x 500. That part turned out quite well & all vises function as they should: 493003 493006

For the toolbox that goes under, I went for a slightly different approach from Derek’s, my idea was to have a strong box that can be lifted in & out for carriage. It looks very utilitarian on the outside: 493007

But I tried to tart it up a bit inside: 493004

I can fit a reasonable selection of tools in it, enough to make a fair fist of a wide range of jobs (as long as I have a strapping young bloke to help lift it), but I started to wonder if I could manage to make this my “retired from retirement” toolbox & squeeze in enough tools to keep me happy & productive in my dotage. The answer, of course, is “not a snowball’s chance in Hades”. It would take an order of magnitude more willpower than I posses to cull my tools to the extent I could house them in a box 540W x 500H x 400 deep!

The drawers are all designed for specific tools & just deep enough to fit what they have to contain. There’s room for a couple more things in this drawer: 493002

But it gets a bit tight in the two chisel drawers: 493005

(& where am I going to put the rest of each of these sets, let alone the other 3 lots of chisels I have?)

I'd have to throw out half of my marking gauges: 493008

Culling them would be almost as bad as deciding which of my children to disown.
So the idea of fitting all of my tools into a single under-bench box remains a fantasy for me too, unless Derek really does have the secret of the Tardis…
:C
Cheers,

[woodPixel]

IanW, only 7 marking gauges.

I can see the conundrum.

[IanW]

IanW, only 7 marking gauges

I can see the conundrum.

I knew I'd get lots of sympathy, WP. :C

BTW, there's many more than that in my main tool cupboard - those were just spares posing for the pic, most of which have gone to new homes...
:U

[derekcohen]

IanW, only 7 marking gauges.

I can see the conundrum.

Ian, I shall respond to this in due course :U

Regards from Perth

Derek

[IanW]

Ian, I shall respond to this in due course :U ....

OK, I'll wait 'til I see how many you manage to squeeze in, Derek... :D

You have shown us a lot of different gauges over the years, so unless you've parted ways with a few, I suspect there'll be some pushing & shoving to get them all in the under-bench. :;

This is my drawer of 'users': 493075

One of those large gauges is earmarked to go when I get time to modify the other one. I got the idea of making a "multi-tool" with cutter or pin, and had the foresight to make the diameter the same as a pencil, so it's a 3-in-1 gauge:493074 493073 493072

The other is a traditional panel gauge with a 'stepped' stock. It didn't occur to me until recently that I could make a new stock, with a step one side & a wear-strip on the other & it will be a 4-in-1.

So, WP, the number of gauges in the drawer is about to be reduced by one, when I get the round tuit. That is, unless I use the freed-up space to squeeze in another couple of smaller gauges..... :D

Cheers,

[woodPixel]

Super fancy marking guage... Manky pencil!

You must suffer from choice paralysis for the quick jobs :)

[taz01]

OK, I'll wait 'til I see how many you manage to squeeze in, Derek... :D

You have shown us a lot of different gauges over the years, so unless you've parted ways with a few, I suspect there'll be some pushing & shoving to get them all in the under-bench. :;

This is my drawer of 'users': 493075

One of those large gauges is earmarked to go when I get time to modify the other one. I got the idea of making a "multi-tool" with cutter or pin, and had the foresight to make the diameter the same as a pencil, so it's a 3-in-1 gauge:493074 493073 493072

The other is a traditional panel gauge with a 'stepped' stock. It didn't occur to me until recently that I could make a new stock, with a step one side & a wear-strip on the other & it will be a 4-in-1.

So, WP, the number of gauges in the drawer is about to be reduced by one, when I get the round tuit. That is, unless I use the freed-up space to squeeze in another couple of smaller gauges..... :D

Cheers,

Hi Ian,

For panel gauges, when do you use a step vs the flat with a wear strip? I'm needing to build one very soon and looking at ideas.

Regards,

Adam

[IanW]

Hi Ian,

For panel gauges, when do you use a step vs the flat with a wear strip? I'm needing to build one very soon and looking at ideas...

Adam, the "step" allows the stock to be registered very stably on the edge of the panel. When you are marking 300 or 400mm from an edge, the step helps greatly to keep the beam perpendicular as you push/pull the gauge along. It isn't absolutely essential, but if you use a stepped gauge to mark a wide panel, I think you'll quickly find how helpful that step can be. 493088

On the other hand, the step is a nuisance if you need/want to roll the gauge over a bit as you typically do with a regular gauge. My initial solution was to have two gauges (because I can!), and I only realised fairly recently that it would be a simple matter to make a stock with a step on one side & a flat face with a brass wear-strip on t'other.

So you could have your cake & eat it too...
:U
Cheers,

P.S. The brass angle wear strip in the step is optional, there are lots of old gauges that simply have an unlined rebate, & most I've seen were in reasonably good condition for their age. My guess is that even in a busy cabinet shop, they would get way less use than regular gauges.

[jpdv]

Ian,

I'm always impressed by the finish on your gauges and infill planes: how do you get that lustre/ 'silkiness' on the hardwoods?

[IanW]

....how do you get that lustre/ 'silkiness' on the hardwoods?

Sand to 400 grit, scrub the surface with 0000 steel wool, then pad on Shellawax as if French-polishing. Give the wood 2 coats like this, avoiding any visible build-up, then buff on a cloth wheel. I have to say that the manufacturer (Neill) looked very askance when I told him how I'd finished the object he happened to be admiring & said, "I don't recommend using it like this!". All I can say is that it works for me, it's super-quick & I get a durable finish that looks like it took hours of work. I have noticed that some people's sweat reacts with the Shellawax & dulls it quickly.

Don't try it on a hot, humid day (same applies to French polishing), the Shellawax sticks & smears as you are rubbing it on, and when you try to buff it you'll get streaks & unevenness that are very hard to buff out. If that happens, I've found the best procedure is to rub the uneven surface off with the 0000 steel wool & start over. Otherwise it's as close to idiot-proof as it gets.

The two dark (bull oak) gauges at top right in the gauge drawer pic in post #72 were finished this way, about 30 years ago, and still look much the same as they did when I made them. They've had an "annual" waxing (about once every 3-5 years!). The woods that respond best to this treatment are the harder species like our she-oaks & acacias, but anything that sands to a good surface usually takes Shellawax finish well - soft, open-grained woods don't respond nearly as well.

Cheers,

[derekcohen]

I could have sworn that I posted the following, but cannot find it!!!!!

So, presenting the Skeleton Drawer ....


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinetBehindDrawer1_html_m5a0ab82.jpg

Here is the second drawer to be filled ...


https://i.postimg.cc/X7MpyNbS/1.jpg

Why "Skeleton Drawer"? Well, it does not contain dark secrets, buried bodies, or other clandestine material http://www.woodcentral.com/webbbs/smileys/biggrin.gif


It is just the name I have given to the drawer design since, unlike Drawer #1, which hid a jewellery layer, this discloses all from the outset.
The drawer holds my Kiyohisa chisels: paring slicks and bench oire nomi. It is important to be able to find, and extract them easily when working at the bench.


The paring chisels lie in the upper level ...


https://i.postimg.cc/6Q1Q6t0P/2.jpg

These slide into the cabinet and, below, are the oire nomi (3mm through 30mm) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Kvn47XGK/3.jpg

There are two others at the rear, a second 30mm and a 36mm ...


https://i.postimg.cc/qv4qjmq1/4.jpg

This is a clearer presentation ...


https://i.postimg.cc/QdmtPpWh/6.jpg

The chisels lie on shaped rests. The blades lie on rare earth magnets, which prevent them moving from the rests when the drawer is opened and shut, or the top layer extended into the cabinet ...


https://i.postimg.cc/j5wSLm3S/5.jpg

The wood used for the rests and the slide is West Australian Sheoak ...


https://i.postimg.cc/C13LD79H/7.jpg

The rear of the drawer, the drawer back, has been cut away above the second dovetail. This is how the the top layer slides into the cabinet ...


https://i.postimg.cc/YSS9wh1g/8.jpg

I trust you are finding this fun as well http://www.woodcentral.com/webbbs/smileys/smile.gif


Regards from Perth


Derek

[derekcohen]

Hot on the heels of this, I had a slight change of plan. Vision revisited ....

A slight change of plan. This was driven home by the current drawer I am working on, where it became apparent that attempting to fit too many tools into the cabinet is really missing the goal I originally set out to achieve.


So it is time to backtrack: rather than cram in items, I want the tools I enjoy using most.


The extra two chisels in the drawer have been moved out. I have just to remove the holders ...


https://i.postimg.cc/X7pK12zc/Redo1.jpg


This does not really change the functionality of the drawer, as it was easy to access the oire nomi and the slicks before, but now it just feels less crowded.


The drawer with the squares has had a small alternation. The Veritas square has been moved out (I replaced the cut-out section with solid), and a finger hole added to make it easier to slide the tray ...


https://i.postimg.cc/7hQ3Y7f2/Redo3.jpg

This now is less complicated. The tray below is as easy to access.


https://i.postimg.cc/MZsbDkdp/Redo2.jpg

Simplicity rules http://www.woodcentral.com/webbbs/smileys/smile.gif


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Chief Tiff]

Hmm, I thought the square drawer was pretty perfect before! Is it your intention to remove the Veritas square from your inventory or simply relocate it somewhere else? I often see it on the bench in your builds and assumed it was one of your essential marking out tools; I have the same one and find it invaluable.

I DO like the way you're making all the drawer internals removable so you can chop and change as the mood takes you. I know you're downsizing your collection but I doubt Veritas or Chris Vesper have decided to shut down their "New & Shiny Tool" R&D departments; there's still going to be new acquisitions in your future!

[IanW]

...... there's still going to be new acquisitions in your future!.....

:U Yep, I'll make a similar prediction, Chief.

Wish I had a $ for every time I've said "I'm not buying/making a single new tool for the rest of my life..."

I don't lack willpower, it's WON'T-power I need.
:U
Cheers

[derekcohen]

I don't lack willpower, it's WON'T-power I need.
:U
Cheers

I like that, Ian! :)

CT, the Veritas square is one of the tools I use much of the time. It was removed simply because I created a place for it, and this position was not ergonomic. Too much fiddle to get it out. I was trying too hard to fit it in, to the detriment of the work flow. I shall find another place for it.

The same argument is levied at the marking gauges, which brought about this change. Find a place for the favourites, not all. I am not getting rid of my other tool cabinets.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mountain Ash]

Hi Derek. I am enjoying this very much :D

[derekcohen]

Drawers 3 and 4

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinetBehindDrawer1_html_m5a0ab82.jpg


Moving across to top right. This is a drawer for wheel cutting gauges ...


https://i.postimg.cc/65SxYS2X/6.jpg


I went through many ideas before coming up with this design. Simple, but effective for access and keeping the gauges from moving around.


https://i.postimg.cc/Lskd48y9/7.jpg


Two Tite Marks with fine adjusters and two Veritas gauges (these were a steal several years ago - Anniversary gauges in stainless steel. Brilliant!). The gauge at the front is one I built. My idea of Veritas-going-Japanese :)


https://i.postimg.cc/HkyDK2X7/5.jpg


Everything is removable. The slots for the arms were made with a fluting blade in a Veritas Combination Plane ...


https://i.postimg.cc/wvFSJb8n/8.jpg


Drawer #4 was much more work. Much more.


This is the middle drawer, second row. The drawer above holds large squares. This drawer holds more squares, small ones for joinery ....


https://i.postimg.cc/fW2GRFv9/9.jpg


The only way to keep these from moving around in a drawer is to french fit them ...


https://i.postimg.cc/15bbpq2R/11.jpg


The little "dot" at the top end is a rare earth magnet. This is to keep extra blades (for the squares) from getting lost.


https://i.postimg.cc/k4jpD6Wm/12.jpg


This is where I moved the Veritas sliding square. There is a Vesper small double square along with a similar Starrett. These are so useful for checking dovetail sockets. Below is my favourite double square, a 4" Moore & Wright, along with a 4" vintage Browne & Sharpe machinist square.


Now slide the top tray away, and below are large and small Starrett dividers, and a vintage Starrett compass ...


https://i.postimg.cc/3JkP4BLb/10.jpg


Again french fit to prevent any sliding around ...


https://i.postimg.cc/76PRxMG9/13.jpg


I managed to get all these rules inside the drawer - Starrett and Mitutoyo in metric and imperial ...


https://i.postimg.cc/bwbWLvfx/16.jpg


Easier to stack them this way ...


https://i.postimg.cc/R0L85bFq/15.jpg


Two more drawers, and I am going to call it quits for a while. Lynndy has orders for night stands.


I hope you are still having fun! :)


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Cklett]

Quote "I hope you are still having fun! [emoji4]"

Yes, I am really enjoying your descriptions and solution. Only drawback is that I now want to rearrange my drawers as well.....

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[woodPixel]

Are the bottoms of the drawer sides waxed to reduce friction on their runners?

I've noticed a mini tallboy I use as a tool cabinet :) is wearing a bit.

Is the use of wax a traditional approach?

[derekcohen]

Evan, I always smooth plane and wax the drawer runners and drawer sides.

As I recall, Bunnings sell a lubricant spray for sticky drawers.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[pippin88]

Check that the lubricant spray is not silicone. Silicone spray goes everywhere and messes with future application of paint / finishes I believe.

[IanW]

.... Is the use of wax a traditional approach?...

I think the practice is as old as wooden drawers! My grandma (b. 1882) waxed drawer runners with candle stubs. Candles were mainly paraffin wax, which is a better lubricant than beeswax, which can get a bit sticky under some conditions.


... I've noticed a mini tallboy I use as a tool cabinet :) is wearing a bit....

One of the bad habits of wooden drawer parts! I've lost count of the number of Hoop pine & cedar drawer sides & runners I've repaired. It's weird that they used such soft woods here in Qld. where there is a wide choice of far more appropriate & durable woods. I guess it was the sheer ubiquity & availability plus the ease of working them. I've seen some runners so worn there was only a few mm of wood left & the drawers could only be coaxed in & out by careful lifting & juggling.

Levelling the bottoms of the drawer sides & glueing on a strip of matching wood is usually pretty straightforward, but repairing/replacing the worn runners is another matter, some makers seem to have not imagined their poor choice of material might need repairs down the track & nailed & glued those runners in place real good! Getting them out was a major exercise. In the 60s it was common to see strips of 'laminex' stuck on the worn runners, which looked pretty crude but worked reasonably well. Another common 'cure' I've seen is to fill the grooves with body-filler or "builders' bog" as it's now commonly called.

An exception was a cedar desk/bookshelf I tidied up for a friend many years ago. It was made some time before 1920, probably in Brisbane, and is the only piece of this type I have come across with a dovetailed carcase. The joinery was exceptionally well-executed throughout & everything was as sound as the day it was made, except for the deeply-worn drawer runners. The maker acknowledged the pine runners were going to need replacement someday, so they were installed with the usual tenon at the front of the runner (not glued), while the rear tenon slid in via an extended rebate in the back divider and was locked in place with small chocks, which were either lightly glued or just a friction fit, I can't remember exactly, but I certainly remember it was a very simple job to replace those runners!
:U
Cheers,

[ian]

This is a drawer for wheel cutting gauges ...

https://i.postimg.cc/65SxYS2X/6.jpg


I went through many ideas before coming up with this design. Simple, but effective for access and keeping the gauges from moving around.


Two Tite Marks with fine adjusters and two Veritas gauges (these were a steal several years ago - Anniversary gauges in stainless steel. Brilliant!). The gauge at the front is one I built. My idea of Veritas-going-Japanese :)


https://i.postimg.cc/HkyDK2X7/5.jpg

Derek
Given that you will often want to put your gauges away WITHOUT changing the settings, how does your french fitted drawer inserts accommodate that desire?

[ian]

I managed to get all these rules inside the drawer - Starrett and Mitutoyo in metric and imperial ...

https://i.postimg.cc/bwbWLvfx/16.jpg
Derek
I see that at least two of your rules (or is it three?) are marked in both US customary units (aka inches and fractions) and metric (aka cm and mm).
How often do you find that you pick up a rule and measure metric from the "wrong end" i.e. the 4.8 mm bit beyond 300 mm that equates to 12 inches.

[derekcohen]

Hi Ian

It is a fairly straight forward matter to store wheel gauges with specific settings. The arm can extend without affecting, or being affected by, its positioning. The body is locked in place, not the cutter end of the arm.

Picking up the wrong end of a rule? Always! It is the same as dropping a peanut butter open sandwich - it falls on the wrong end. At least with rules, one can turn them around :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[ian]

Picking up the wrong end of a rule? Always! It is the same as dropping a peanut butter open sandwich - it falls on the wrong end. At least with rules, one can turn them around :)
I quickly got so fed up with trying to measure from the "wrong end" of my combined metric / imperial rules that I ended up swapping them for ones where all the markings were that either only in metric, or only in imperial

[derekcohen]

Ian, I find myself now moving almost exclusively to metric. My combination squares are metric, and set up ready for use. The rules in the drawer are my spares.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[IanW]

.... I find myself now moving almost exclusively to metric...

S'funny, I work almost exclusively in metric now, too, about the only time I find myself digging out the old Imperial rules is if I'm fixing an old piece that was built in Imperial days. It just seems easier to use the scale that was used in the original making, even though my rational mind knows it makes no difference

As I get further & further from inches & feet, I find it harder to visualise dimensions in Imperial - if something is 4 inches, my mind does a little hiccup & says "oh yeah, that's about 100mm", yet I still can only think of my height in feet & inches!
:shrug:
Cheers

[derekcohen]

I was raised with both metric and imperial, and can switch between the two fairly well. Actually, some measurements in imperial are easier to visualise, particularly longer lengths. However, since having the Hammer A3-31 thicknesser/jointer, which measures in metric, it has become easier if I use this as a base measurement. There is some issue if I use an imperial plough plane. And, then, slaving tool sizes goes out the window.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[derekcohen]

Drawer #5: french fitted sliding bevels (Shinwa, Stanley and Chris Vesper) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/yxpgTS2P/1.jpg


Drawer #6:

This one is about the tools ... just because I think that they are beautiful, and I love using them. They give me joy.

All the tools in this cabinet have a story, or a connection. This is one of the reasons I keep them, even though I do not "need" them as I have others. All get used. In the case of the chisels in this drawer, they are my go-to for dovetails and close-up detail work. Mainly because they are all fully bevelled at the sides and have minimal lands. In spite of the absence of hoops, all may be used with mallet. The condition here being that the mallet head is UHMW. This is firm for feedback but yielding to avoid damage.

This is another skeleton drawer. The top tray are home to Veritas PM-V11 chisels. Most here are aware that I have road-tested tools for Lee Valley (Veritas) for many years. Not only are these just superb chisels, but I like the way they feel in the hand, particularly the smaller sizes. For dovetails, these run 1/8" upwards to 1".


https://i.postimg.cc/rsw-RW9Zs/2.jpg



The five on the left have custom Ebony handles (they are also round and not shaped with flats). The far right is a fishtail I made from a spare (pre-production) 3/8" chisel. I am sure that Veritas will have fishtails for sale at some stage. This is my design, not theirs (I have no idea what they have in mind).


The lower tray house Blue Spruce dovetail/detail chisels. This was the first set of premium chisels I purchased. Dave Jeske had just begun making them, and I was one of the first to order. In fact, the 3/4" (which is the largest size here) was the first made. I asked Dave for a 3/4". He had made 2, one for another order, and sent me the spare. I sent it back. His idea at the time was to make the steel thicker as the chisels became wider, and the one he sent was 3/16" thick. It felt heavy and clumsy. I requested 1/8", and that is what che then made for me.


My one concern about the chisels, prior to purchase, was that they are A2 steel, and that, for paring, a 30 degree bevel might not be ideal. Then it dawned on me that all the Japanese chisels I had were 30 degrees ... These blades get very sharp. They do not hold an edge as long as PM-V11, and need to be honed more frequently. But that does not detract from the absolute pleasure in using them.


https://i.postimg.cc/T2tDxZhD/4.jpg


These are light blades in beautiful African Blackwood handles. Sized 1/8", 3/16" and up to 3/4". There are two 1/4" skew chisels. I nagged Dave to make a fishtail, but he was skeptical there was an advantage over the skews (there is indeed a big advantage when cleaning out socket corners). Later he did make them, and I chanced on a sale of tools at a deceased estate in Oz. They had not been used, which brought me some sadness for the previous owner.


Drawer #7. Here is another drawer holding cutting and marking gauges.

This is a drawer intended to be dedicated to wooden mortice and cutting gauges, but does have two wheel gauges that could not be fitted elsewhere.

The mortices gauges fall into these three types ...



https://i.postimg.cc/vTRZvp43/Mortice-gauges1-zpsmo2nteg8.jpg



Veritas Dual Marking Gauge, Kinshiro, and one of my designs.


The Kinshiro is my absolute favourite, and I was gifted one several years ago (thanks Wiley!). Found another about a year back. They are no longer made by Kinshiro, and no longer available. I have made a number of single-blade cutting gauges in a similar manner to these double-blade gauges. The Kinshiro may be used as single blade gauges as well, plus one can set up a reversed blade as well, which is useful when paring shallow mortice walls, such as here!

The shopmade mortice gauge is in the style of Kinshiro, but uses a cassette to house double-sided blades to match a range of mortice and tenon widths ...



https://i.postimg.cc/mgCs313X/5a-zpsayx23ssh.jpg


Here is the drawer ...


https://i.postimg.cc/yNbTxw46/2.jpg



Bottom right is a cutting gauge from Colen Clenton. This was a prize in an Australian tool making competition in 2009.

The holders are made from Hard Maple ...


https://i.postimg.cc/tgT5X9cm/4.jpg



https://i.postimg.cc/KjXrrB8d/3.jpg



Regards from Perth

Derek

[IanW]

Aha! I finally see the wicked plan. You've been fooling us all along calling this a "tool cabinet" when really it is a display cabinet......
:U
Cheers

[derekcohen]

Ian, a display cabinet for those with x-ray vision! :)

I have too many tools - even when this build has presented the opportunity to limit them to those that fit in the drawers. I try and use all, because they just beg to be used. The upshot of this is that it is a justification to keep them! So I now hide them in drawers to reduce my greedy guilt :).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Simplicity]

Ian, a display cabinet for those with x-ray vision! :)

I have too many tools - even when this build has presented the opportunity to limit them to those that fit in the drawers. I try and use all, because they just beg to be used. The upshot of this is that it is a justification to keep them! So I now hide them in drawers to reduce my greedy guilt :).

Regards from Perth

Derek

“I have too many tools”
Have you considered talking about this Derek,I hear it helps, just not sure in which direction it helps.

Cheers Matt.