Challenge 2020-21 Bellbodyboards

[bellbodyboards]

I love woodworking and thought this challenge would be an ideal way to increase my knowledge base and improve skills in homemade hand tools. For that reason I have kept it simple after doing a lot of research - YouTube, woodwork magazines, woodwork forums etc in making a hand plane.
I decided to make a wooden hand plane based on Krenov design (because I like the designs and I had lots of left over hardwood timber) with a tad difference- ie attaching the iron to the plane via using a cap screw that will be countersunk from the plane's sole.
.
My plane will be a smoothing plane using the following timbers
- red gum
- Pacific teak for stability
- Grey iron bark for weight and beauty
-Blackbutt
Overall dimensions will be in the vinciity 330mm long, 50mm wide and 65mm height
Front block cut at 70 degrees and back block cut at 55 degrees for dealing with stubborn grain based on advice I was fortunate to receive from tool maker based in Australia. This person was kind enough to answer my email and provide me with advice.

Other hardware items will include
- purchased Hock blade with chip breaker
- brass ( flat bar)
- cap screws and stainless washer
- old brass hose connector found laying around with old nails, screws
- threading rod
- epoxy resin
I had an idea of the plane' s measurements (determined by timber offcuts) hence no plan and I sought the plane should be made on a fluid basis as I know that I will be making mistakes and errors on the way. To that purpose I know I will have to improvise and make adjustments on the way.
Regards
Anthony

[Mountain Ash]

Welcome aboard. Doubly welcome because you're making a wooden plane :wink:

[Sheets]

Welcome to the plane game! Nice selection of wood - looking forward to seeing your creation.

Steve

[Pittwater Pete]

Welcome!
Have fun.
Pete.

[bellbodyboards]

I have now milled the timber and soughted the configuration of timbers. Final result
- middle piece from Pacific teak, flanked either side by iron bark, followed by thin strip of black butt and outer skin using red gum.
Due to over milling, I was forced to use and strip,of timber for the sole, so I used pacific teak.
The teak and iron bark were laminated using epoxy resin, clamped and left to cure for 24 hours. I forgot to mention I began the process back in mid November 2020 and did not want to commit as there were family things that were on the horizon and could possibly prevent me from completion. Since that time, matters are now in the past and I was able to devote the time to fully commit to completion.
I used epoxy resin to assist in reducing any possible movement between the laminated pieces.
Regards
Anthony

[bellbodyboards]

Thank you for being so welcoming
Regards
Anthony

[Cklett]

Welcome and good to see progress. To your first question. You should just add any update as a response to your original post so that all your progress is in one thread.
That's at least how all of us did it.

And only when you are done you add your end result to the plane ready thread for judging.

Looking forward how your plane develops.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Picko]

Whoa another late starter! Welcome aboard Anthony.

[bellbodyboards]

Now that all timbers have been laminated into one solid block, I then milled the block.Angles set for back and front of plane and cut on sliding compound saw.
One of the big concerns was accuracy of drilling a hole for the cap screw in the sole of th plane. After placing the iron and chip breaker on the back part of the plane, positioning it a few millimetres from the cutting edge, I measured and then using the tip of brad point drill bit. Mark that point and then measure distance from cutting edge to drill point indentation.
That measurement is then transcribed to the sole of plane. It was now over to my pedestal drill. Stop blocks set up and sole of back section of the plane set up against the stop blocks. Then using a Forster bit same size as s/s washer, drill hole to what I believed was deep enough and not go through back of plane. Then using drill bit same size as cap screw, drill through entire back of plane. Before that process I placed a left over scrap of wood wedged to prevent tear out.
Despite checking and checking and measuring and measuring and further measuring, the iron and chip breaker stood proud from the edge. In short the cap screw exit hole hopefully incorrect.
After untold expletives and more expletives, I had a cup of coffee to compose myself and address a way to overcome the error. Eventually had to cut extra length in the centre of the iron using an angle grinder as well as drilling additional holes in the chip breaker.
Turned a negative into a positive given that one can alway overcome problem by thinking it through. Alteration made did the trick.
My apologies for my photo's as I am perplexed as to why some are upside down and others are not when attaching to my post.
Regards
Anthony

[bellbodyboards]

Cklett
Thank you for the advice.
Regards
Anthony

[Cklett]

Wow, you are flying!

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Simplicity]

Anthony,
Glad to have another challenger,
An wow your flying along already.

Cheers Matt.

[Pittwater Pete]

Go man go![emoji106]

[Chief Tiff]

Excellent; another jostler for second place! :p

Welcome aboard the fun ferry; and don’t be afraid to ask for opinions, ideas, affirmation and all-round assistance.

[bellbodyboards]

I have now laminated the red gum sides to the main body of the plane. Of course due to an earlier mistake - cap scsrew not aligning with thread on the chip breaker. I wasn.t going to but a tap an die set gvery expensive for a one off) so I thought about an alternative.
So I decided to allocate an old brass hose connector to act at screw top. Method involved inserting a nut in on send of the connector an deluded using epoxy. Let it set and then place plastic straw into centre of nut (reason to avoid epoxy seeping into thread of nut).
Dry and use void created by straw to drill hole. An old cap bolt cut and tightened into epoxied nut. Cap Goldman head, cut, lugs rasped away so will sit flat to connector and then turned using my pedestal drill given I do not own any metal type machinery.
I was pretty happy with the result. The hose connector tightens the iron and chip breaker when I use the Allan key to turn the cap screw located in the sole of the plane.
Regards
Anthony

[Cklett]

Looks interesting, although I am still not quite sure what you are trying to do with the cap screw and so on. Are you trying to get away without a cross pin and lever cap or wedge?

Will be watching with interest.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Simplicity]

Anthony,
Looking good, but are you aware your pics are all upside down?.

Cheers Matt.

[bellbodyboards]

Good afternoon Cklett
My plane will not require neither a cross pin or wedge. The cap screw uses an Allan key to tighten the cap screw which goes through the iron and chip breaker. The hose connector come modified nut brings it altogether. I could have chosen to simply use a dome nut but this is a challenge and I sought to go the extra yard in improvising what "bits" I had in my jars of nails, nuts, bolts, washers etc. Like many I like to keep those items as you never know when they will come in handy, such as this challenge.
Regards
Anthony

[bellbodyboards]

Hello Matt
I am aware my photo's are upside down.The photo's are the right side from my photo list on the tablet up but when they get attached to the post, they go upside down.
Regards
Anthony

[Bushmiller]

Hello Matt
I am aware my photo's are upside down.The photo's are the right side from my photo list on the tablet up but when they get attached to the post, they go upside down.
Regards
Anthony

Anthony

I'll add my welcome to the many before me. It looks as though you are getting stuck right in and doing an impressive job.

The pic thing is an issue for many. If I take landscape pix they appear on the Forum perfectly. If I take portrait style pix they appear in the wrong orientation: I don't know why this happens, but the fix is simple. I save the pix on my computer and then edit them by rotating them to to the correct orientation. In practice this involves rotating them through 360° and then saving a copy. I use the copy and this appears correctly in the thread. It is a little time consuming and slightly annoying to have to do this, but I don't know any other way. I use a dedicated camera as I don't have a phone.

Regards
Paul

[bellbodyboards]

Good afternoon Paul
Thank you for your advice which I will try to implement in order to remedy the orientation of my photo's. As you may have ascertained, I"m not very tech minded but I'll give it ago.
Kind regards
Anthony

[Mountain Ash]

Anthony

I'll add my welcome to the many before me. It looks as though you are getting stuck right in and doing an impressive job.

The pic thing is an issue for many. If I take landscape pix they appear on the Forum perfectly. If I take portrait style pix they appear in the wrong orientation: I don't know why this happens, but the fix is simple. I save the pix on my computer and the edit them by rotating them to to the correct orientation. In practice this involves rotating them through 360° and then saving a copy. I use the copy and this appears correctly in the thread. It is a little time consuming and slightly annoying to have to do this, but I don't know any other way. I use a dedicated camera and as I don't have a phone.

Regards
Paul

Hi Anthony. I have an Samsung phone and have to remember to take shots in landscape mode otherwise they rotate 90°

[bellbodyboards]

In my research prior to starting the challenge, I watched a video where a woodworker (I think the surname is Polish) made inserts across the sole of the plane. I thought this looks good and may serve a purpose of strength. I changed the idea somewhat and made three wedges from the left over iron bark which were then lined with fine/ thin slivers of American white oak. I cut rebates a different angels across the sole -,the philosophy of Wabi Sabizia- the art of imperfection, with the view the wedges may assist in reducing wood movement.
Each wedge was slightly proud of the width of the sole which was later sander flush with the sides of the plane.
Regards
Anthony

[Simplicity]

Anthony,
Your absolutely killing it, it’s looking fantastic.

Cheers Matt.

[Aussiephil]

Anthony,
Your absolutely killing it, it’s looking fantastic.

Cheers Matt.

making us look like snails with this pace of completion... the best i've done for 2 days is walk past the blade sitting in the mill

Cheers Phil

[Cklett]

In my research prior to starting the challenge, I watched a video where a woodworker (I think the surname is Polish) made inserts across the sole of the plane. I thought this looks good and may serve a purpose of strength. I changed the idea somewhat and made three wedges from the left over iron bark which were then lined with fine/ thin slivers of American white oak. I cut rebates a different angels across the sole -,the philosophy of Wabi Sabizia- the art of imperfection, with the view the wedges may assist in reducing wood movement.
Each wedge was slightly proud of the width of the sole which was later sander flush with the sides of the plane.
Regards
AnthonyStavros Gakos is doing that a lot. He does great work. I always thought he is using harder wood for wear resistance. I never thought it helps with wood movement. But makes sense as well. In any case it looks great.

I guess in that speed by tomorrow you are alteady taking shavings....

Because of the speed I would name this plane "Lightning" [emoji16]

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[Bushmiller]

Stavros Gakos is doing that a lot. He does great work. I always thought he is using harder wood for wear resistance. I never thought it helps with wood movement. But makes sense as well. In any case it looks great.

I guess in that speed by tomorrow you are alteady taking shavings....

Because of the speed I would name this plane "Lightning" [emoji16]

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CK

I think "Lightning" would be a very appropriate name under the circumstances. Pity we are not making axes as the name there would be a given.... never strikes twice in the same place. :rolleyes:

Regards
Paul

[Mountain Ash]

CK

I think "Lightning" would be a very appropriate name under the circumstances. Pity we are not making axes as the name there would be a given.... never strikes twice in the same place. :rolleyes:

Regards
Paul

I worked with a plasterer once who had the same nickname.....took me a while to work it out (I was young) :rolleyes:

[bellbodyboards]

After drawing and redrawing numerous designs , I finally settled on a design and subsequently cut the shape and did a rough sand (at this stage). Given that I had some left over red gum, I gave some consideration as to how further add some value adding to my plane. I recall in my initial research that someone added a guide to their plane for jointing purposes. I borrowed this idea and made a guide to add to my plane.
I used the red gum and glued a pice of white oak as a substrate. The oak was deliberately left thicker so that I could sand it down to the size I required- that being the thickness of the guide equating to the width of edge of the plane smooth and outer edge of the plane's side.
Over the white oak I used what aluminium flat bar in my garbage and epoxied that on the white oak. The reason- the metal would not wear with use and would also allows for a smoother flow across any timber.
I measured up where the guide was going to be connected to the main body of the plane and countersunk to holes to accomodate two washers.
Regards
Anthony

[Cklett]

After drawing and redrawing numerous designs , I finally settled on a design and subsequently cut the shape and did a rough sand (at this stage). Given that I had some left over red gum, I gave some consideration as to how further add some value adding to my plane. I recall in my initial research that someone added a guide to their plane for jointing purposes. I borrowed this idea and made a guide to add to my plane.
I used the red gum and glued a pice of white oak as a substrate. The oak was deliberately left thicker so that I could sand it down to the size I required- that being the thickness of the guide equating to the width of edge of the plane smooth and outer edge of the plane's side.
Over the white oak I used what aluminium flat bar in my garbage and epoxied that on the white oak. The reason- the metal would not wear with use and would also allows for a smoother flow across any timber.
I measured up where the guide was going to be connected to the main body of the plane and countersunk to holes to accomodate two washers.
Regards
AnthonyThe addition of the fence is a great idea. I read somewhere that aluminium tends to leave marks on wood. Hence aluminium planes were not really successful. Let us know what your experience will be.

Love the shape and it is coming along really nice!

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[Bushmiller]

The addition of the fence is a great idea. I read somewhere that aluminium tends to leave marks on wood. Hence aluminium planes were not really successful. Let us know what your experience will be.



I too have heard that. Often aluminium components are anodised for this purpose. See how it goes: It may not be an issue.

Regards
Paul

[Sheets]

One issue with aluminum is that it is relatively soft and easily scratched/dented/gouged/galled or otherwise deformed. On a plane sole, should any of these irregularities rise above the otherwise flat surface, there is the possibility of leaving a trace in the wood surface. I found with using the Makita power planer, which has an aluminum sole, I had to check regularly to ensure nothing had gotten stuck or made a mark that transferred to the surface being planed. Not too critical, as this tool is generally made for rough work anyway. But its always annoying when a planer pass makes things worse vice better.

Steve

[bellbodyboards]

Good afternoon everyone
I am appreciative of input from all fellow woodworkers regarding the use of aluminium.As they say two heads are better than one and apart from that I encourage different ideas and listening to people who have more experience/ skill than myself.
I wish to clarify that the aluminium flat bar is not used in any part of the plane. The metal is only used on the attachment when I need to level the edge of a piece of timber for jointing purposes.
In saying that I will still let forum members know if the aluminium does mark or do anything adverse to the timber after numerous trial uses upon completion of my plane for this challenge.
Regards
Anthony

[Sheets]

Ah, I see - I obviously misunderstood exactly how the aluminum was being used. Makes perfect sense as a guide - not much pressure applied, so little risk of jamming something into it. Anyway, looking forward to seeing how your plane progresses - you are certainly wasting no time on #5 biscuits and beer!

Steve

[bellbodyboards]

I epoxied brass flat bar to the plane's sole and drilled four holes to screw the plate down. Left the head of the screw proud of the brass bar with intention of sanding flat. Well what a mistake. I tried unscrewing the screws but epoxy made that impossible... at least for me.
Then trimmed using an angle grinder but nearly ruined the brass. Gave that idea up. Then tried to grind screws flat with some success but not to my likening.
Any way did what I could and ended up with something that is no way perfect but something I will have to live with. All experience and will know better on another occasion.
Trying to convince myself the plane is wabi sabi- Japanese art of beauty in imperfection. It helps me to accept the error is one cosmetic error rather than a functional error.
Kind regards
Anthony

[Cklett]

I epoxied brass flat bar to the plane's sole and drilled four holes to screw the plate down. Left the head of the screw proud of the brass bar with intention of sanding flat. Well what a mistake. I tried unscrewing the screws but epoxy made that impossible... at least for me.
Then trimmed using an angle grinder but nearly ruined the brass. Gave that idea up. Then tried to grind screws flat with some success but not to my likening.
Any way did what I could and ended up with something that is no way perfect but something I will have to live with. All experience and will know better on another occasion.
Trying to convince myself the plane is wabi sabi- Japanese art of beauty in imperfection. It helps me to accept the error is one cosmetic error rather than a functional error.
Kind regards
AnthonyWe have all been there. But if you still want to remove it again, did you try heat? With heat you can break down the epoxy and remove the plate again and try a different way.

Most people use slotted screws for something like that. They grind down so that the slot dissapears.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[bellbodyboards]

Hello Cklett
Thank you for the advice but I'm a little apprehensive heating the brass plate. My other issue is how to remove the screws given the head of the screw has been filed away.
Regards
Anthony

[Chief Tiff]

My other issue is how to remove the screws given the head of the screw has been filed away.

Hi Anthony,

The best extractor I’ve ever used for removing chewed out screws is the Grabbit (https://www.amazon.com.au/Alden-8430P-Grabit-Damaged-Extractor/dp/B000H6PM32); there are copies available but I doubt they are as strong. They are expensive, but they’ll last you for years.

[Bushmiller]

Hello Cklett
Thank you for the advice but I'm a little apprehensive heating the brass plate. My other issue is how to remove the screws given the head of the screw has been filed away.
Regards
Anthony

Anthony

The Chief's suggestion looks pretty good, but if you don't wish to part with hard earned cash at the moment and if you have an angle grinder, use it with a thin cutting disc to cut a slot in the remains of the screw head, Don't worry about cutting into the brass plate as that is destined for the recycle bin any way, Then you should be able to remove it with a flat head screwdriver. If the head has been mostly filed away still continue, but treat it like a grub screw.

Regards
Paul

[Cklett]

Hello Cklett
Thank you for the advice but I'm a little apprehensive heating the brass plate. My other issue is how to remove the screws given the head of the screw has been filed away.
Regards
AnthonyYou don't need much heat. A heatgun is sufficient.

The ground screws are a problem, but you already have a few suggestions there.

Alternatively you can also drill them out and fill the holes with a piece of dowel.

On the other hand it is on the bottom of the plane. So at least when lying on the bench no one sees it.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[bellbodyboards]

Hello Forum members
Many thanks to you all for your empathy and advice. I'll have a shot at trying to remove the plate and screws as per suggestions. Not sure when this will happen but some time soon.
Once again thank you- I appreciated it very much.
Regards
Anthony

[Cklett]

Hello Forum members
Many thanks to you all for your empathy and advice. I'll have a shot at trying to remove the plate and screws as per suggestions. Not sure when this will happen but some time soon.
Once again thank you- I appreciated it very much.
Regards
AnthonyGood luck. I forgot to detail and you might already know, but just in case. I understand that when using screws for something like that the holes on the metal should only be bug enough that the shank of the screw fits through. And then don't countersink them. Maximum a tiny chamfer on the hole.
Best to use slotted countersink screws. They will stick out when tightened, but the slot will not be lower than the metal surface. So when grinding off it disappears.
I had good results with very small brass Phillips head screws, but they do leave a tiny dint. For bigger screws that's probably worse.

Young Ye on Youtube does that a lot in his plane builds.

As I said you might already know, but thought I mention it just in case.

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[bellbodyboards]

Good afternoon Forum members
After much deliberation I have chosen to leave brass plate on the sole of the plane as is because it reflects my mistake and a subsequent learning curve for me.
I have drilled two holes into the body of the plane and epoxied two couplers. The couplers will take the cap screws which will connect the support for the attachment. The same size Allen key is used for the attachment support for jointing as well as tightening the iron from under the plane.
Sounds confusing but hopefully the photographs will be self explanatory.
When the support attachment is not in use, I cover the holes ( that have the coupler) with a brass cover that had a hole drilled though the middlethrough which I epoxied a threaded bolt. The sharp edges of the bolt head was partially sanded to take off the sharp edges.
The threaded bold head is not obtrusive when holding the plane
Regards
Anthony

[bellbodyboards]

I forgot to mention in the earlier thread that I had to use a spring washer as the cap screw and nut embedded in the brass cover was not effective to tighten the iron and chip breaker. The use of the spring washer did the trick.
Regards
Anthony

[Ironwood]

Lookin good, I like the curvy style you have chosen.

[Chief Tiff]

Looking pretty spectacular! Your jointing fence makes it resemble an old Stanley 95 but the wider blade and longer body should make it out-perform one.

Now; has your plane been named yet? :rolleyes:

[Simplicity]

Anthony,
That’s an excellent looking plane.
With the fence now adding more versatility to it.

You should be proud of your efforts there, I can certainly see were you hot your inspiration from.

Cheers Matt.

[Simplicity]

Looking pretty spectacular! Your jointing fence makes it resemble an old Stanley 95 but the wider blade and longer body should make it out-perform one.

Now; has your plane been named yet? :rolleyes:

Swoopi Bellboard ??

Cheers Matt.

[bellbodyboards]

Good evening Forum members
Thank you for your support and compliments.
As for the name of the plane, I think I may call,it "Wabi Sabi" seeing the beauty in the imperfect. My plane is not perfect but there is beauty in the timbers and the form.

Regards
Anthony

[Bushmiller]

Anthony

I had to look up "Wabi Sabi." I think that is very humble of you.

I now have this image of you offering up your plane before the three judges with your head dipped and the body slightly bowed (not too bowed as I am led to believe it is a common mistake by Westerners) and the judges taking it from you and departing the chamber. When out of sight they enter into an undignified melee on who gets to keep the plane.

:cool:

Regards
Paul

[bellbodyboards]

Thank you, Paul for your kind words.
Regards
Anthony

[Sheets]

Very nice work Anthony! Your choice of complimentary woods and their arrangement adds quite a depth of complexity (sorry if that sounds overly wordy), but it all fits together beautifully. Can't wait to see some shavings!

Steve

[bellbodyboards]

Good afternoon Forum Members
I have completed my plane ready for judging. I created a new post for this thread - ready for judging.I hope that was the right thing to do.If not I will add a new post to this thread regarding plane complete/ ready for judging.
Regards
Anthony

[Bushmiller]

Good afternoon Forum Members
I have completed my plane ready for judging. I created a new post for this thread - ready for judging.I hope that was the right thing to do.If not I will add a new post to this thread regarding plane complete/ ready for judging.
Regards
Anthony

Wow! So fast.

We may have to rename the plane "Flynn."

Regards
Paul

[Aussiephil]

Next will be the movie "the worlds fastest plane build" starring your favourite actor as bellbodyboards. Fast paced, action filled.

Well done, I managed to get two faces machined on my blade in the same time..... mmmm

Cheers
Phil

[Bushmiller]

Good afternoon Forum Members
I have completed my plane ready for judging. I created a new post for this thread - ready for judging.I hope that was the right thing to do.If not I will add a new post to this thread regarding plane complete/ ready for judging.
Regards
Anthony

Anthony

Travelling at less than warp speed I am nowhere near your level of completion, but I think the intention was to post in this thread when our planes are complete.

Plane Complete, Ready for Judging (woodworkforums.com) (https://www.woodworkforums.com/f316/plane-complete-ready-judging-237987)

Don't be too concerned. I am sure some arrangement will be made. I think this will make you the third challenger to complete a plane.

Regards
Paul

[Cklett]

Amazing effort! Love the plane and design.

Can you also post some technical details like length, cutting width, weight and type of wood, etc.?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[bellbodyboards]

Good afternoon Forum members
I have now completed my plane and I am more than pleased with the plane.I really enjoyed the entire process because it really ( for me at least) did create a number of challenges and hurdles that I did not contemplate in the initial planning phase.
I tried to use whatever items that I had in the garage- brass hose fitting, screws, bolts, washers, timber, glue which as part of my personal challenge. There were a few items that had to be purchased due to not being in my possession- couplers, , spring washer, cap screw and of course the actual iron and chip breaker.
On many occasions I made mistakes which then forced me to make a minor adjustment or totallly take another direction. For example, on one occasion I had used wet and dry sandpaper on the brass plate which then stained some of the timber. Hence back to more sandpapering to remove the metal stain. Then on another occasion I planed too much from the sole of the plane, then had to add extra timber to accomodate the height of the iron just to name a few issues.
I am very pleased with my plane in terms of weight, balance, shape, species of timber, thin shavings, the swoosh sound when planing and the unusual marriage between the iron and body of the planeusing a cap screw.
My thanks to the Forum for creating this challenge. My thanks also extend to those forum members who have offered advice and support.
I extend my good wishes to Forum Members who have entered the challenge and I am very much looking forward to seeing their plane reflective of each person's skill level, creativity and knowledge.

Regards
Anthony

[bellbodyboards]

Thank you for the advice.I thought I would save the moderators/ judges from having to move the new post of plane ready this thread.
Regards
Anthony

[Cklett]

Thank you for the advice.I thought I would save the moderators/ judges from having to move the new post of plane ready this thread.
Regards
AnthonyHi, what Paul ment was to post it in the specific thread reserved for the finished planes. See the link in his response.



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[bellbodyboards]

Good evening Cklett
Thank you for the compliment. Details sought by you are:
Plane- main body
length 320 mm
height 55mm
width 50mm
weight 993 grams

Jointer attachment:
lenght 320mm
height 80mm
width 18mm
weight 392 grams

Width of iron 40mm

Timbers used in varying amounts.Primary timbers used are:
- Grey iron bark
- Pacific teak
- Qld spotted gum
- Red gum
Secondary timbers used are:
- Blackbutt
- American white oak

Metals:
Brass flat bar
Aluminum flat bar

Kind regards
Anthony

[Sheets]

Hi, what Paul ment was to post it in the specific thread reserved for the finished planes. See the link in his response.



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I guess that thread is for the "also ran",....

[Simplicity]

Anthany,

That is truly an outstanding effort, in a time frame that leaves some of standing still,
I also feel you should win a door price for the most considerate and politest Plane maker.

We are going too need a bigger second place podium [emoji6].

Cheers Matt.

[bellbodyboards]

Hello Matt
Thank you for your compliments
Regards
Anthony