Arron 28th November 2005, 05:21 PM Composite shoulder planes are, I think, a seriously nice looking piece of gear. These are not particularly difficult tools to make. About 70% of the time involved was spent carving the narrow slot for the blade and wedge. I chisel-carved them which is tedious, but if you have very accurate drilling equipment you might be able to work something better out. Shaping the blades was also one of those things which takes a long time to do the first time but not once you get the hang of it. I havent started to tune these up yet, however I have noticed the 12mm cuts a consistent and even .01mm shaving before tuning - so things bode well.
For anyone interested. Here is detail.
Timber body - one piece, twenty year old beech (why? because its guaranteed not to decide to twist one day).
Brass channel - 19x19mm and 12.5x12.5mm brass channel from Brass and Copper P/L in Seven Hills. The 19mm channel is 3.3 mm thick which gives the planes an attractive heft in the hand and a very positive feel against a workpiece.
Abuttments - 10mm x 6mm brass, 4mm brass pins (probably too small, would have preferred 6mm pins).
Blades - 5mm thick M2 HSS hardened to RC 60 (steel blanks bought from McJing's in Yagoona).
Bedding angle - 12mm is at 38degrees, the 19mm's are at 40 and 60 degrees.
Wedges - Beech. These look a bit anaemic because I upgraded from 3mm to 5mm blades towards the end requiring the wedges be reduced in thickness.
I included the second photo just because I like the photo. It does, however, show where I stand on the 'how important is a narrow mouth' debate.
cheers
Arron
Shedhand 28th November 2005, 05:40 PM :eek:
Composite shoulder planes are, I think, a seriously nice looking piece of gear. These are not particularly difficult tools to make. About 70% of the time involved was spent carving the narrow slot for the blade and wedge. I chisel-carved them which is tedious, but if you have very accurate drilling equipment you might be able to work something better out. Shaping the blades was also one of those things which takes a long time to do the first time but not once you get the hang of it. I havent started to tune these up yet, however I have noticed the 12mm cuts a consistent and even .01mm shaving before tuning - so things bode well.
For anyone interested. Here is detail.
Timber body - one piece, twenty year old beech (why? because its guaranteed not to decide to twist one day).
Brass channel - 19x19mm and 12.5x12.5mm brass channel from Brass and Copper P/L in Seven Hills. The 19mm channel is 3.3 mm thick which gives the planes an attractive heft in the hand and a very positive feel against a workpiece.
Abuttments - 10mm x 6mm brass, 4mm brass pins (probably too small, would have preferred 6mm pins).
Blades - 5mm thick M2 HSS hardened to RC 60 (steel blanks bought from McJing's in Yagoona).
Bedding angle - 12mm is at 38degrees, the 19mm's are at 40 and 60 degrees.
Wedges - Beech. These look a bit anaemic because I upgraded from 3mm to 5mm blades towards the end requiring the wedges be reduced in thickness.
I included the second photo just because I like the photo. It does, however, show where I stand on the 'how important is a narrow mouth' debate.
cheers
Arron
Now that is seriously excellent work mate. You must have the patience of Job and the eye of Fred Hollows.
Cheers
Lignum 28th November 2005, 05:40 PM Excelent work Arron:D :D you must be pleased as punch. It must be extreamly satisfying to make you own:D :D
Termite 28th November 2005, 05:50 PM Look out HNT you have some serious competition. Beautiful work.
Auld Bassoon 28th November 2005, 06:24 PM Arron,
Smashing looking planes there; very well executed!
Cheers!
routermaniac 28th November 2005, 06:49 PM absolutely beautiful! Well done!
JDarvall 28th November 2005, 07:14 PM Brilliant work Arron. :D If you find the process enjoyable, if I was you, I'd consider making a business out of it. Top quality looking planes. Have to speed up the process though.
Maybe, you should consider making some shoulder planes with skewed irons. I've never done it, but with your obvious talent, I think you could make and sell unusual planes like this quite well.
I think the idea is, that a skewed iron, which has a lowered Effective pitch will shave end grain better. Also the skewed action naturally tends to draw the body into the shoulder more. Sort of like the bed of a Stanley 289. All it is , is the normal square bed rotated a few diagrees..... you'd know this anyway eh.
Keep that patience going. Great work.
Jake.
Corunetes 28th November 2005, 11:31 PM Do they come in other colours?
Wongo 28th November 2005, 11:35 PM Arron, again you've made something so beautiful.:)
TassieKiwi 29th November 2005, 07:33 AM Awesome work. 'ave a greenie.
Wood Borer 29th November 2005, 08:25 AM Amazing work - more photos please.
Clinton1 29th November 2005, 08:32 AM Fantastic, I want one. When you make another, if you make another, I'd love to see a Work In Progress - it would help to educate someone like me on a skill that is not widely held.
Again, great work and I'll send a greenie because you have made me "green with envy. :D
If, as mentioned by Jake, you are thinking about making a business out of it, put me down for an order. :)
Andy Mac 29th November 2005, 09:04 AM Hi Arron,
Absolutely beautiful workmanship, you should be more than happy with that effort! Have a greenie.
Cheers,
derekcohen 29th November 2005, 03:26 PM Arron
Just beautiful. As well made as any of the HNT Gordon range from where I'm sitting.
The only item I might change - just for the visual affect - it to use a contrasting piece of wood for the wedge (like Jarrah).
What made you choose the angles, 40 and 60 degrees?
Regards from Perth
Derek
Arron 29th November 2005, 04:37 PM What made you choose the angles, 40 and 60 degrees?
Well, you did! You pointed out that the Gordon planes have an angle of 60degrees and they work very well though it is hard to explain why, and your LV shoulder is 15degrees but bevel up which gives an effective angle of 40 degrees. Fifteen degrees is not really practical with a wooden or composite plane so I had to go for 40degrees bevel down.
Really, though, its just trial and error. I dont expect to get a plane right first time - these are version one and version two is already half finished. Version two will have a bigger, beefier wedge and an abutment that extends right down to near the tip of the blade. I think that even with 5mm HSS blades you need to pin the blade down against its bed as much as possible.
Do you think I should be trying any other angle ??
Arron
Wood Butcher 29th November 2005, 05:08 PM Arron, those planes are beautiful.
Would it be too much trouble to get the address of where you got the brass from. I have been loooking for something similar for my dad.
Once again, Fantastic!!
Auld Bassoon 29th November 2005, 06:09 PM Really, though, its just trial and error. I dont expect to get a plane right first time - these are version one and version two is already half finished. Version two will have a bigger, beefier wedge and an abutment that extends right down to near the tip of the blade. I think that even with 5mm HSS blades you need to pin the blade down against its bed as much as possible.
Arron
Hi Arron,
Looking again at these, I'm thinking that you could give Steve Knight (http://www.knight-toolworks.com/wooden.htm) a run;) - should you choose to...
Cheers!
Arron 29th November 2005, 08:38 PM Would it be too much trouble to get the address of where you got the brass from. I have been loooking for something similar for my dad.
Brass and Copper Pty Ltd. Unit 9/14 Stanton Road, Seven Hills, Sydney. Ph no is 9624 2355. They have a wide range of extrusions and sell in 900mm increments. I believe they also have an outlet in Melbourne.
Incidently, Brass and Copper Pty Ltd dont make the stuff. I suspect they get most of their stock from Conex (Consolidated Extrusions) in Ingleburn http://www.conex.com.au/. I dont think Conex will sell small quantities, but you could try.
Arron
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