Possitioning screw holes.

[Lignum]

possitioning screw holes dead center is a pain.

Some bright spark came up with the Vix-bit. As im to cheap to buy one of them my solution is a simple one.

When the hinge is possitioned, place the tip of your 2#pozzi-drive bit in it and give the drill a whirl. Bingo. perfectly centered and a little hollow that allows the drill bit or screw to center it self:D

[craigb]

Thanks I'll give it a burl. :)

[Termite]

Thanks I'll give it a burl. :)

The instructions clearly stated "give it a whirl" :D

[scooter]

Thanks Lignum, will try it also.

I was chewing this issue over recently, too cheap also to buy a vix bit.


Cheers................Sean

[savage]

Good idea, wish I'd thought of it!:) ..............It's always the simple ideas that seem to work!.........Wish I'd thought of it!

[pottsie]

i also use the same techinque when making my counter sunks... you already have your clearance hole drilled, throw your screw tip in & give it a hit.. as the screwtip is drillin your CS, rotate your drill in a circular motion so it breaks the surface alittle more wider...

not something you should do all the time as it can wear your tips out but if you cant find your CS and the screw isnt seen then it saves alittle bit of time changing your drill over and over again....

sorry to sidetrack your post, its just that it reminded me of it

[Barry_White]

This is what I use about 2 weeks from Rockler.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10610

[Groggy]

Lee Valley have them as well.

Look here for hex shank (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&p=40239&cat=1,180,42240,53317,42265) and here for round shank (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&p=32321&cat=1,180,42240,53317,42265). The prices seem better than Rockler but I can't speak to quality differences.

[Auld Bassoon]

Similar mate, I tend to use a fairly acute angled countersink, and just give it a twist on the shaft through my fingers - perfect centre!

[Barry_White]

Lee Valley have them as well.

Look here for hex shank (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&p=40239&cat=1,180,42240,53317,42265) and here for round shank (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&p=32321&cat=1,180,42240,53317,42265). The prices seem better than Rockler but I can't speak to quality differences.

Groggy

I didn't know about Lee Valley when I bought mine about 2 years ago.

The Hex shank ones are best because when I drilling and screwing I use the quick change chuck to change from the drill to the screwdriver bit. I also have set of drill bits with the hex snap in ends on them. Only wish they were about when I was contracting. It used to drive me nuts changing bits by undoing and doing up the drill chuck.

[Groggy]

I guess I should ask, why do they have to pre drill the buggers in the first place, it is inconvenient. A blank plate (http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/111/gfx/large/16175ac1l.gif) is better, then you can drill and CS the thing in place - done. Since I'm having a hinge whinge, why don't they use the correct angle for the CS too, half of 'em get it ballsed up and need to be resunk anyway.

[Groggy]

Groggy

I didn't know about Lee Valley when I bought mine about 2 years ago.

The Hex shank ones are best because when I drilling and screwing I use the quick change chuck to change from the drill to the screwdriver bit. I also have set of drill bits with the hex snap in ends on them. Only wish they were about when I was contracting. It used to drive me nuts changing bits by undoing and doing up the drill chuck.Barry, I am going to get some soon but am still umming and arring. I like the convenience of the hex shank too, but they allow a slight wobble. (I assume this would not be an issue with a vix style as the self locating head should hold it still).

[redwood]

I guess I should ask, why do they have to pre drill the buggers in the first place, it is inconvenient. A blank plate (http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/111/gfx/large/16175ac1l.gif) is better, then you can drill and CS the thing in place - done. Since I'm having a hinge whinge, why don't they use the correct angle for the CS too, half of 'em get it ballsed up and need to be resunk anyway.

love the way you victorians think. blank hinges so you can drill em your selvs. next thing youl want is blank screws and thread em your selvs:D those centering drill bits are the same as the vix-bit lignum said. his idea was good if you dont want to waste money on one. and potsies idea was good - even richie would love that, and howard could use it in his hardware shop:)

[Groggy]

love the way you victorians think. blank hinges so you can drill em your selvs. next thing youl want is blank screws and thread em your selvs:D those centering drill bits are the same as the vix-bit lignum said. his idea was good if you dont want to waste money on one:)What is funny about the idea? You have to drill the hole anyway don't you? If you think about it, it makes sense and would give a more accurate finish.

[Barry_White]

Barry, I am going to get some soon but am still umming and arring. I like the convenience of the hex shank too, but they allow a slight wobble. (I assume this would not be an issue with a vix style as the self locating head should hold it still).

Groggy

I dont have any problem with them wobbling and certainly make life easy.

I just had a look at the Vix Bits at Timbercon. What a ripoff.

http://www.timbecon.com.au/products/countersinking-bits-362_0.aspx

[redwood]

What is funny about the idea? You have to drill the hole anyway don't you? If you think about it, it makes sense and would give a more accurate finish.

am i missing something:confused: "You have to drill the hole anyway don't you?" in what:confused: pre-drill into the timber yes. but why on earth would you want blank hinges and have to drill and then countersink into them:confused:

[Groggy]

Groggy

I dont have any problem with them wobbling and certainly make life easy.

I just had a look at the Vix Bits at Timbercon. What a ripoff.

http://www.timbecon.com.au/products/countersinking-bits-362_0.aspxYikes! Cheaper to get a set from Rob Lee shipped by a slow turtle.

[Groggy]

am i missing something:confused: "You have to drill the hole anyway don't you?" in what:confused: pre-drill into the timber yes. but why on earth would you want blank hinges and have to drill and then countersink into them:confused:The hard thing with hinges is getting all the holes concentric. If you had a blank hinge and drilled the counterbore hole through it and into the timber then it would be guaranteed to be concentric.

Maybe I'm the one missing something (it's late, I'm tired and running on paint fumes (3rd repaint of daughters room).

[Barry_White]

am i missing something:confused: "You have to drill the hole anyway don't you?" in what:confused: pre-drill into the timber yes. but why on earth would you want blank hinges and have to drill and then countersink into them:confused:

Redwood

No No No. You use the countersunk hole in the hinge to center the Vix Bit or the Posidrive bit to centre the hole where it is needed. You don't use blank hinges.

[Groggy]

Redwood

No No No. You use the countersunk hole in the hinge to center the Vix Bit or the Posidrive bit to centre the hole where it is needed. You don't use blank hinges.Barry, I was the one raising the blank plate issue, Redwood was questioning me.

[redwood]

Redwood

No No No. You use the countersunk hole in the hinge to center the Vix Bit or the Posidrive bit to centre the hole where it is needed. You don't use blank hinges.

yeh thats ovious:rolleyes: but whats groggy use a blank hinge for as the one in the pic shows?

[Lignum]

I guess I should ask, why do they have to pre drill the buggers in the first place, it is inconvenient. A blank plate (http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/111/gfx/large/16175ac1l.gif) is better, then you can drill and CS the thing in place - done. Since I'm having a hinge whinge, why don't they use the correct angle for the CS too, half of 'em get it ballsed up and need to be resunk anyway.

Groggy, make your own. They are easy if you have an oxy. Much better action than comercial ones. They add a nice touch:)

[Groggy]

yeh thats ovious:rolleyes: but whats groggy use a blank hinge for as the one in the pic shows?Ok, lets start again. After reading the thread I wondered why we had to use vix bits "at all". The sole reason is that the holes are pre-drilled. That led me to wonder "why not just use a blank hinge with a non-drilled plate".

A quick search found they are available for sale (McMaster-Carr website).

So, if, in my experience, you need to clamp the hinge somehow, then drill a pilot hole in the wood (with or without a vix bit), with the associated bother of getting it dead center, and then possibly have to re-countersink the hole to the correct angle. Then, why NOT just get a blank plate, clamp, drill the pilot, countersink and be sure it is spot on.

That all it was folks, just thinking out loud - sorry.

[redwood]

Ok, lets start again. After reading the thread I wondered why we had to use vix bits "at all". The sole reason is that the holes are pre-drilled. That led me to wonder "why not just use a blank hinge with a non-drilled plate".

A quick search found they are available for sale (McMaster-Carr website).

So, if, in my experience, you need to clamp the hinge somehow, then drill a pilot hole in the wood (with or without a vix bit), with the associated bother of getting it dead center, and then possibly have to re-countersink the hole to the correct angle. Then, why NOT just get a blank plate, clamp, drill the pilot, countersink and be sure it is spot on.

That all it was folks, just thinking out loud - sorry.

Ahhh i see where your commin from:D

[zenwood]

Not sure about all this newfangled ironmongery, vix bits, etc.

For hinges, I put the hinge where it will go, then trace the inside of the holes with a sharp pencil, taking care to hold the pencil upright, so as not to bias the circle. Then by eye, I judge where the centres of the little circles are, and mark with an awl. What I do next depends on how meaty the wood is. For thin walled boxes etc., I'd use a brad point bit, and put the central spur on the marked centre. For thicker stock or rougher work, e.g. door hinges, I'd mark with a centre punch and use a twist bit, which self-centres in the conical depression left by the centre punch.

[Lignum]

Not sure about all this newfangled ironmongery, vix bits, etc.

For hinges, I put the hinge where it will go, then trace the inside of the holes with a sharp pencil, taking care to hold the pencil upright, so as not to bias the circle. Then by eye, I judge where the centres of the little circles are, and mark with an awl. What I do next depends on how meaty the wood is. For thin walled boxes etc., I'd use a brad point bit, and put the central spur on the marked centre. For thicker stock or rougher work, e.g. door hinges, I'd mark with a centre punch and use a twist bit, which self-centres in the conical depression left by the centre punch.

Zen, thats why i initionaly posted my idea. Even when you mark an accurate possition with an awl or pencil, its so easy to wander a fraction when you drill it. A no2# pozzi drive in the hinge hole fits snug (depends on the hinge size) and a quick burst will give a slight hollow dead center that your drill bit will settle into and give an accurate quick hole:)