CNC Router (Work in Progress)

[rodm]

I am on the way to making my CNC router and thought some might be interested in following the progress. I am running this as a parallel post with CNCzone so if it is a bit obscure then I apologise and you are welcome to ask for more detail. I am finding this project fascinating as it combines woodwork, metalwork and computing.

Don't ask for drawings as they are in my head and change to suit the materials I have available and the problems I encounter as I construct it. I know this is a cop out but I would rather be making chips than drawing pictures.

The biggest hurdle was the electronics as I have very little experience other than how to solder. As this was going to be the critical component for me I decided to get the driver board, and if I could mount it and get it going, the way would be clear to make the router.

The box I got was not big enough to house the transformer and board so I got another one and put the transformer in one and driver board in the other.

After I ran the tests and was confident I had everything working I got the 269 oz motors.

Motors and driver board are from Xylotex in the US.

A simple way of looking at this is the driver board is the interface between the computer and motors. If you think of a printer and the way it operates with a parallel cable connected to your computer then there really isn't much difference between the two. In fact you can send HPGL code to a CNC router.

Here are some photos of the finished driver board and power supply.

[rodm]

So the electronics, motors and cables have been completed.

I decided to make the base from steel and the gantry from aluminium. My choice for a steel base is that it adds weight and stability and because it is fixed it does not require additional motor power.

I also wanted to have the rail supported laterally and vertically along it's length. The rail is 2 inch by 1 inch bright mild steel and is attached to the sides of the frame. The backbone and turnbuckles let me adjust one side without affecting the other side. There are slotted holes in the crossmembers to allow for adjustments.

Rather than waffle on perhaps if I post pictures it will be clear as mud for everyone

[rodm]

The bearing carrier contacts three faces of the rail and I will be able to get the fourth face of the rail when the lower gantry crossmember is fixed in place.

The bearing holders are adjustable so that I will be able to plumb the gantry as well as make minor adjustments to each bearing.

There will be a total of twelve bearings on each side.

The first photo shows the bearing carrier on the rail. Second is the bearing carriage and the last is one of the bearing mounts before it was painted. Skateboard bearing have been used.

Well that is about it for the moment. Next I will be making a frame to hold the router and at the same time I will strip down the base and paint.

Just ask if you want more detailed photos or descriptions.

[rodm]

To make my posts easier to understand the photo below is a finished CNC router of a similar design to what I am building. Go to the following site for the full story.
http://www.tedatum.com/thms/project4.html

The design is called a gantry router for obvious reasons and it consists of a X and Y axis which takes care of length and width and a Z axis which is depth of cut.

Rotary motion is supplied by computer controlled stepper motors which generally have 200 steps per revolution and these are attached to a threaded rod on each axis. A nut on the threaded rod attaches to the axis and as the rod rotates the nut is pulled along. This converts rotary movement to linear movement.

Accuracy is in thousands of an inch depending on the build quality of the machine.

If you want to know more about this go to
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/
and be prepared to spend many nights (translated weeks) learning about how these things work and are built. There are free plans (Jgro) and heaps of variations to have a look at.

The units can be built from MDF at relatively low cost and smaller units can use motors from discarded printers and a Dremil or similar for cutting. There units are not a new concept and a couple of members of this forum have alrerady built these.

[Simomatra]

Well done Rod.

Nice one. Well worth another green but it says I have to spread them around

I have been following the article in the American DVD magazine as well.

Yours is well up there look forward to more posts

Cheers sam

[rodm]

Thanks Sam

This is one of those projects that takes ages to complete. I don't expect this to be finished for at least a few months yet but I am really enjoying the journey.

It has been stange not visiting this site a regularly as I used to and I do miss the woodworking.

Sawdust is a lot kinder to bare feet than swarf as well. :D

[Simomatra]

Enjoy Rod

Look forward to sharing the journey with you.

I am off back to sea so will have the water under mine for the Xmas period

Cheers Samhttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon7.gif

[rodm]

Update
I have stripped the base down, painted and modifed it after a few suggestions from forum members on CNCZone.

I have made a mobile bench to mount it on and have completed the first axis on the gantry.

Progress is slower than I would like but there has been a few steps backwards to get it this far.

[Razor]

Hi Rod
You are doing a wonderful job - looks great!
A project like this has been on my mind but it must take up most of your life. Please keep the posts coming. What are the cutting dimensions on your machine?
Cheers, Ray

[rodm]

Hi Ray
Thanks for the encouragement. I am not sure what the final cutting area will be as it depends on how I finish the construction. The base is 1 metre long and the gantry is 700mm wide. These dimensions will be reduced by the placement and width of the next axis.

I haven't sketched it out and the design changes as I make it to fit in with the materials I have and any new ideas that pop up. Well that's my story and I am sticking to it. :o

There are quite a few of these being made successfully out of MDF but I opted for steel and aluminium.

[Harry72]

Wow Bob... it certainly doesnt look DIY made.(prob better than a brought one)

[bennylaird]

Mine will be mainly MDF, hopefully good enough to cut aluminium parts for number 2. Main problem is finding Delrin..............

[rodm]

There has been three or four listings for Delrin on ebay in the last couple of months. It comes up doing a search for lathe.
A lot are using the plastic cutting boards (HDPE) and finding it OK. I can only find thin cutting boards locally though.
There is a fellow in America that makes Delrin anti-backlash nuts for $US15 and they look very good for the dollars.
Here is his site
http://gonebowlin.com/dumpsterCNC/

[rodm]

I pulled the gantry apart again and bored a couple of holes to reduce the weight.

I finished the adjusters for the bearing which has made it very easy to align and adjust the gantry. I am pleased with the gantry - smooth and no play or racking along the entire travel.

Anti Backlash nuts are now finished and seem to work well. I machined two flanges and welded the stock nuts inside the flange. Springs between the plates keep the set screws tensioned.

Next step is to mount the acme thread and attach a motor for some movement.

[Greg Q]

Mine will be mainly MDF, hopefully good enough to cut aluminium parts for number 2. Main problem is finding Delrin..............

Hello Benny,

try these guys in tullamarine:

www.eplas.com.au

they have Delrin and uhmw poly. (they custom cut from huge sheets, and don't seem to mind very small orders)

Cheers

Greg

[Rosethorn]

Rod,you may like to look at this website, an aussie guy into cnc, speed controls and other stuff I have no idea about (he's my brother and I am flat out keeping up with him at times ) http://www.homanndesigns.com/ -hopefully of some interest to you.
cheers rosethorn

[rodm]

Rosethorn
Thanks for the link

[Bob38S]

Rod,
I have enjoyed reading of your progress so far - looks far better than a "store bought" one and reads and looks like it should perform extremely well. As you say you are enjoying the journey - what is the ultimate purpose of the CNC router and any idea as to what it has cost so far?
Regards,
Bob

[Tonyz]

CNC... ok for those brain dumbs like me what does CNC stand for and why do these appear to be held in such esteem .... Tonto

[Auld Bassoon]

CNC = Computer(ised) Numerical Control. In other words, a device that is computer controlled, working to a specific program overlay (e.g. a pattern design), to control a cutter (e.g. router) to make, with a high degree of precision, a part.

Often used industrially to repetitively manufacture identical and very accurate items. For woodworking, this is about as far from the darkside as it's possible to get:eek: But if there is a need to make a large number of identical parts, it's a very good way to go. As well, the "pattern" is just a set of parameters (the overlay referred to above), so can be altered slightly or completely, as required, with minimal skill requirements.

Cheers!

[rodm]

Bob
Thanks for the comments. The cost is mounting but fortunately is has been spread over a reasonable period so I haven't felt it too much. :)
Motors, driver board and transformer - $600 (ex USA)
Steel - $200
Aluminum - $400
Hardware - $50
Paint - $30
Bearings - $40
Acme thread and nuts - $160 (ouch, but allthread could be used for $20)
Computer - Zero as I had an old one suitable
Software - Free (TurboCNC)
Electrics - Zero as I had an E switch, wire and plugs.

The prices above should not put anybody off having a go as you can build an MDF style CNC router with salvaged printer motors, allthread and skateboard bearings for under $500. The people who have made these routers claim accuracy of 1 thousanth of an inch or better. There are a few people on this board who have made MDF CNC routers and another who has partly done one with steel cabinet slides. I will find an example of a good MDF unit and post a photo here.

I thought this thread might have been a bit out of topic for the woodwork forum but I have been contacted privately by quite a few people who are either making a CNC router or want to start.

From another forum I have had an invitation to a group of four CNC'ers in Perth who have already completed CNCing their lathes and are in the process of making a prefabricated steel CNC router. It is like one of those balsa models where this tab goes in this slot, etc. It can be welded but Loctite 300 is good enough to hold it together. It looks great and I will report back here on the design after I have met up with them.

I have made quite a bit of progress today so I will update the pictures soon.

[rodm]

Here is a photo of a well made MDF CNC router. You can read the full build log on this link
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15139&page=1&pp=15

[rodm]

I finished the framework for the cutting table. 50mm by 3mm ali angle in a sort of torson box design. MDF will cover the table and threaded inserts used for hold down clamps

[Razor]

Hi Rod
Thanks for your posts. You a doing a marvelous job and I have been following your progress with great interest. Is the aluminium frame joined with aluminium strips bent at right angles and then screwed through to the frame pieces. I like the idea of threaded inserts, might use that idea on my assembly table.
Please keep us up to date as you progress.
Cheers
Ray

[rodm]

Hi Ray
The pieces are joined with strips of 30 by 25 angle cut to 50mm lengths. 3/16 pop rivets throughout and 3/16 screws on the front rail only. Those 3/16 rivets take some force to close and Uncle Arthur flaired up a bit last night. :(
The screws along the front rail are so it can be removed to fit between the gantry during assembly. I am varnishing the MDF (3 coats both sides) to try and stabilise the MDF a bit.
The ali angle I had was not a perfect 90 degrees so it was built with lots of straight edges and clamps to keep the top face flat. The result is that the angle is slightly kicked on the vertical. Not that obvious unless you know about it but it is worth mentioning if anyone follows this design.

[rodm]

Still ticking along and learning heaps. I have very kindly been given acme thread and delrin nuts so a slight change of plans. I finished the table and will mount it next. I worked on the lathe and mill all day making the bearing mounts for the X axis and motor mounts. The shoulder on the bearing holder is to locate it in the frame to help allign the motor to the axis. Photos should show you how it goes together.
Here are the results.

[Razor]

Thanks for the post - LOVE IT
Doing a great job
Cheers
Ray

[bennylaird]

There is a fellow in America that makes Delrin anti-backlash nuts for $US15 and they look very good for the dollars.
Here is his site
http://gonebowlin.com/dumpsterCNC/

Thanks for this reference, will get some of these and some ACME rod from http://www.mcmaster.com/

Also the next machine will use these bearings:

http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=LM

[rodm]

Bennylaird
I will be using the same linear slides on the Y axis so I will be able to give you some feedback on them. As these are only supported on the ends the experts tell me that don't go for the small diameter. Mine are 20mm and second hand and will span 700mm but I have no idea if this is sized right.

[bennylaird]

Look fwd to your feedback. I was thinking the 20mm as well but want to use them on X and Y. 60" (1500mm) on the X and 30" on the Y.

My first attempt will be the roller blade on pipe system.

[rodm]

Not much to show for a couple of days work but I have done the final adjustments on the X axis and leadscrew. Installed the table and fitted the Y axis rails.
The 20 mm linear rails are good for 700mm but I don't know how they would go over longer spans. I think on anything over this span I would go 25mm or linear rails.
More photos and starting to look like a CNC gantry router now. :)

[Razor]

HI Rod
Realy looks great. It also looks very rigid as if it is going to hold accuracy for you. Not so far to go now, keep us posted.
Cheers Ray

[rodm]

Ray
Thanks for the encouragement. Believe me you need it on a project like this as it is very time consuming. I knew it would take a while to build and you never know if it is going to work so there is always an element of doubt.

I have been very fortunate to have an engineer who has done CNC conversions contact me. He is a wealth of information but I do get lost in his technical mumbo jumbo. His brain calculates forces and all sorts of things while mine just says that looks weak so strengthen it up a bit. :o

I have a couple of days lathe work to do on the Y axis leadscew and mounts and I got a complete Z axis already so I am planning on two weeks to have the machine finished. Then it is computer, wiring, software ............:D

I took about five hours off yesterday and did some woodwork for a relative and it was great to have some sawdust flying around the shed.

This CNC stuff is addictive and I am already buying gear for machine number two. It will be all ballscrew and linear slides so no mucking around trying to make zero tolerances with less than perfect materials.

[sinjin1111]

Hi Rod r u using Servo or Stepper motors?
Sinjin

[rodm]

Hi Sinjin
I have 269oz steppers but I think they might be underpowered for X rapids. I will review this when I am up and running and swap out for larger motor or pulleys. If it runs ok I also plan to swap the acme thread for rolled ballscrew which might help out with speed as well.

[rodm]

Finished fitting the Z axis tonight. The finished work area is :
X - 760mm or ~30 inches
Y - 550mm or ~21.5 inches
Z - 150mm or ~6 inches (clearance between bottom of Z axis and table).

Z will be reduced to 120mm or ~4.7 inches when the router is fitted.

I still have to make and fit the Y axis leadscrew and the router plate. In two weeks it should be making a noise and if it works I will be making a louder noise. :D

[bennylaird]

Looks great Rod. Now what about using it to produce CNC router parts? ie the first one creates the next more accurate one etc, plus I'm sure you could sell parts.

My steppers are only 130 oz so I may be a bit limited in my first incarnation but it was designed to cut balsa and ply.

[rodm]

Hi Bennylaird
I have been so preoccupied with building the machine that I haven't given much thought to using it yet. Even when the mechanicals are finished there is the electrics, computer and software to sort out. I have learnt a lot but I am far from an expert yet. I prefer to finish each stage before moving to the next because once it is running it will be hard to go back and finish it off.

I am sure your 130oz motors will get things running. There is a huge mechanical advantage with a leadscrew and the only disadvantage with the smaller motors is you might not be able to crank it up to full speed. If you are using a Dremel or the like then the cutting bits are small and probably won't take a lot of feed speed without snapping.

I am going to use a 1/4 inch variable speed router trimmer. I originally planned to use my metal cased Makita Trimmer but it is not variable speed. I picked up an Ozito 1/4 trimmer with variable speed for $49 from Bunnings. Not the quality of the Makita but it is variable speed and I can buy five of them and still have change compared to the Makita.

So how is your machine going?

[bennylaird]

My initial plan was for 1/32" milling bits so it won't take much to break them. Looks like we both have lots to learn on the use side of things. Feed rates, cutter speeds etc etc.

How is the Ozito for play? Figure they were cheap because of the bearings but as you say they are cheap enough.

[rodm]

Yes the 1/32 will snap very easily.

Why so small a bit? I would have thought 1/8 to match the Dremel type collet. Even 1/8 would be a risk in MDF or hardwoood and probably wouldn't last too long. Perhaps you are on the right track with those motors and keep the unit cutting at slower speeds.

The Ozito bearings are fine and no detectable play. The test will be when the machine is running. If it doesn't work then over the back fence it goes. :D

[bennylaird]

The 1/32 is on a 1/8 shaft but it will give me the accuracy I need to cut out the small radius corners in wing ribs etc. Would like it smaller. Main problem will be burning of the balsa I'm assuming.

[rodm]

I think your main problem will be the bit chocking up with balsa fibres. The cutter will probably get burried in dust and fibres and you may have to use air or vacuum to improve it. The periferal speed of a 1/32 bit will be quite slow compared to say a 1/4 bit so burning might not be your main problem.

They make a knife for cutting vinyl letters and this might be an alternative for you. Might be worth investigating as you should be able to do a very tight corners with that. In any case a slightly rounded corner should be easy to trim with a pocket knife if you have problems with the 1/32 bit and need to use a larger size.

[bennylaird]

I have some great gun kits, Spandaus, all laser cut in 1/12 scale. Amazing stuff.

[bennylaird]

Check tis out, lol.

[bennylaird]

Thats the water jacket, heres one made up on the Eindecker

[bennylaird]

sorry to small to see

[sinjin1111]

Nice Fokker, something to keep in mind when you start looking for cutters. Spiral cutters work the best and you can also get left and right handed cutters for your routers.
Sinjin

[Outsider]

Rod,
What speeds are available with the Ozito and how loud is it running at slower speeds, maybe I should get one. I'm presently using a Makita trimmer very high speed, noisey and burns the cut surface. To this end I have ordered the bits to make the Silicon Chip Universal speed controler to put in the control box.

I have been able to do a bit more on my machine. Lots of time waseted doing other things recently.

I have been trying to align the axis and although I havn't tried to cut anything I believe it will now be much better. I am also stiffening up the rails on the x and y axis. As I found out every ones concerns about the flexing pipe rails when I was finished most of the mechanicals.

I bought a 3mm single flute solid carbide, a 1/4 cove, a 1/4 v-grove and a 1/4 2 flute upsprial solid carbide. All bits were from McJing in Yagoona. when I saw the smaller ones I thought they were to flimsey for my liking. we'll see as I get some experience.

Your right although I have even taught cad at comunity college the other software seems daunting

I hope that these will be versatile enough at the moment.

Brian
Creator of fine Sawdust

[rodm]

Hi Brian
Good to see you back.
The Ozito speed ranges 11500 to 32000 RPM, 650 watt and 1/4 inch collet. Variable speed dial is on the top of the router so I will be able to adjust it on the fly. Noise is about the same as the Makita and only a bit less at lower speeds.

I think at $49 they are worth a try. Let us know how the variable speed box works. A friend is building a 32,000rpm spindle with a DC brushless motor. Very quiet but it is only a bit better than a Dremel on his prototype. I'll let you know how this develops.

Burning is a common problem and you might have to fit acme threads to speed up the cutting rate and ease burning. I think you are on the right track with the cutters so can give some feedback on them.

So far I have had a look at TurboCNC, Mach2/3 and VCarve. I like Vcarve but not the price so it will probably end up being Mach3.

[MICKYG]

Rod, very good project you have going there, Nice work and engineering skills. I am unable to work out what the turn buckles are for, pardon my ignorance.

Look forward to your results

Kind regards Mike;)

[rodm]

Thanks Mike
The crossmembers have slotted holes and the turnbuckles are used to move the sides (rails) in or out. I used them to get the two rails straight and parallel.

[MICKYG]

Thanks Rod, have been eying off the threaded rod you have used. Would you be able to pass on a supplier or source for the same rod and "nuts". I have a project which could use this. How much length does it move with 1 or maybe ten turns of the rod? I like the look of it having a flat appearance on the outside a bit like the screw and feed on a small lathe.

Regards Mike:D

[bennylaird]

Have a look here and search for acme threaded rod. Shows whats available but not locally.
http://www.mcmaster.com/

[bennylaird]

or here
http://www.lowcostcncretrofits.com/Ballscrews%20and%20transmision.html

[rodm]

Hi Mike

I had great difficulty locating some in Perth. Finally found it in a small engineering supply shop (Urenco). It came in 12 foot lenghts and was 1/2 by 6 TPI so it will be 6 turns to the inch. The killer was the nuts which are $15.00 each.

As BennyLaird has said it is called Acme thread but there are other types such as trapeziodal threads. They come in differnt diametres and thread pitches as well. They also come 2, 3, 4 and 5 start but I have never really got my head around multiple start threads so I stuck with single start.

Blackwoods have acme listed on their site so they might be worth a try.

[MICKYG]

Thanks Rod and Benny, I did the obvious after posting and came up with the following which is closer to me.

The Bolt King
76/78 Redlandbay Road
Capalaba QLD 4157

Phone 07 3245 6177
Fax 07 3245 2867

Technical info at www.hobson.com.au

I have a metre long horizontal Vice which uses a system to move it in parts of a millimeter and sometimes is a little sticky in hot weather, so contemplating change to a threaded arrangement thanks again,

Regards Mike.;)

[sinjin1111]

Hi Rod for your long axis with the pinion running on the rack. Just wondering what your doing about back lash as the gears run on the PCD (pitch line).

[rodm]

Hi Sinjin111
The X axis is actually an Acme thread and Delrin nut and not rack and pinion.

The photo has probably given the impression of a rack becasue of the coarse thread. It is 5/8 inch 6TPI acme given to me after I puchased at great expense some 1/2 inch acme thread.

The thread has a double bearing at both ends. At the motor end it is two bearings pinched together to take the end float out. At the far end it is two bearing secured but the threaded rod is a slip fit. If the threaded rod expands with heat it can be taken up in the bearings. The result is zero backlash and I have no racking in the gantry as well. I hope the delrin stands up to the wear but in any case if this machine works well I plan to swap the acme thread with a rolled ballscrew.

I can't claim credit for the design as I have had some good advice from a group of CNC fanatics. It just made sense to me when it was explained that way.

By the way I have seen designs with rack and pinion (steering gear), overhead cam sprockets and chains, and tooth belts, etc. As you point out the rack and pinion would be the hardest to remove backlash. I quite like the idea of chain and sprocket with a jockey to take out the slack.

[sinjin1111]

Hi Rod, i'm doing a CNC doover myself at the moment. Never enough money to it really well. But just the same it will work.
For rack and pinion ideas i have come across a couple of different ideas of what people have done in the past to remove back lash. Some of the ideas are to split the pinion in half and re assemble them using an offset key so the leading and trailing edges of the tooth would be engaged. Another is to use two pinions connected by a toothed belt. Another is to have the pinion at the very slight angle the Pitch line and another is to run 2 motors on the same axis slightly out of sync. I know in Germany now they have Ball Screws running at unbeleavable speeds and not suffering from shaft whirl. What they actually do is to preload the ball screw shaft at a huge load which is temperature compensating. To me ball screws are the only real choice so long as your axis are not huge. I spoke to a guy from Bosch Rexroth recently that tells me that ballscrews are being used over many meters in length and speeds of m's/sec so thats quick.
Sinjin

[rodm]

Hi Sinjin1111
Very clever ideas about the pinion drive. I agree that the ballscrew is the best option for these machines but the price of them does put you off a bit.

[rodm]

It is finally finished and is ready to go. The dirver board and wiring harness was done before I started making the machine so this weekend it should be making a noise. Well not a loud noise as I am going to use a spring loaded pencil to make patterns on paper until I iron out any bugs and learn to use the software.

Last photos of the machine building is the Y axis leadscrew. Not much to show but it took three days to finish this bit. A lot of lathe work and milling.
I won't bore you with details as the photos should show how I did it.

I have really enjoyed making this and I think I am addicted to building these as I have parts ready for number two and three machines. These will be ballscrew and linear rails and I am looking forward to improving on this one. I hope that this thread has inspired some of you to have a serious look at making your own CNC machine.

[keith53]

Rod,

Looking forward to seeing some output from your machine.

Cheers,
Keith

[bennylaird]

When will you start accepting contract work???????

[rodm]

I will post some work hopefully in a couple of weeks when I have mastered (?) the software. Maybe longer as this is going to be a big learning curve as I have to learn how to use a CAD package as well as the CNC software.

I am afraid I am from the old school and still sketch things on paper and first impression of the CAD software has been a bit daunting. The terminology is just not making sense to me at the moment. I have a couple of friends who can use CAD so to run a trial on the machine I might get them to draw something and I'll use that.

Shame we can't upload Video because it is really fascinating seeing all the axis move at the same time. I will look into this when I run a trail on the weekend and see if I can't put it somewhere so you can see some movement.

[Outsider]

Good work Rod.

Brian

[rodm]

Got it moving on the weekend. A mate came up and after about half an hour of setting up the software it was running. He did the setting up becuase it takes brains for that and he also took a video of the first movement and then of it doing a spiral design. If you watch closely the circles are line segments and the next couple we did were smoothed out to curves by increasing the resolution.

There was a bit of excitment so excuse the enthuisiasm and comments on the video. It does give a demonstration of the machine though and as I don't have a video camera it is probably the only film that will be taken.
The file is 8mb so it might take a while to download. I will remove it in a couple of days as it will kill my bandwidth.

The pencil will be replaced with a router once I can master the software. :D

CNC Router in Action (http://users.tpg.com.au/leerod/CNC_Router/first%20steps.wmv)

[KevM]

Rod,
Been watching your thread with interest.

Congratulations on "baby's first steps", I bet you are a proud dad.

All that remains now is to become confident with the software, add you router and make the dust fly.

A greenie on the way.

Kev M

[rodm]

Thanks Kev

There was a bit of excitement as it went first time without a hitch so you have to excuse the video. Paul come up with Baby's first steps which was rather clever becuase it has been my baby for the last four months and steps refers to the CNC technique of stepping the motors. There were also comments like Number 5 comes alive, etc. And all this was said on a Sunday before we had a drink. :eek:

I have number two and possibly number three machine on the drawing board. I have been busy buying up on ebay for three months and have got ballscrews and linear slides so the next lot will be quite a different construction. Maybe I will post a log of these machines during construction.
By the way there appears to be a lot of work out there for a machine like this. I have had enquiries from friends of friends for work so it might be a good little side business for somebody.

Next weekend I should have the router fitted but I am not keen on making dust until I understand the software. It is very easy to drive the Z axis into the table by incorrect coding. :(

[rodm]

Sorry but I have removed the video from the above post as it is the end of the month and I want some bandwidth next month.

Well I am pumped. The machine turned out better than I expected and with the trusty pencil attached as a makeshift router I am getting good results.
Speed is 900mm (about 35 inches) per minute which is not bad for first setup and having such a heavy gantry. I am running Mach3 software and I am very impressed with it.

I hope to improve the speed as I learn a bit more and develop the machine.
Photos are of finished machine and a sample of work. I have added knurled wheels to the motors, wiring, limit and home switches. I need to make a switch box with E stop and a mount for the monitor and ............

I will stop posting on this thread now as the build is complete. If anybody is thinking of building one of these then feel free to contact me as I think I have made all the mistakes you can. :D I have a lot of research material that I can pass on to others as well.

[rodm]

Ok so I lied the last post wasn't the last as I am back again. :D
I mounted the router last night and did a test tonight. Did a quick and dirty in Corel Draw and imported the dxf file to Mach3. Mach3 is the CNC software that drives the router and it converts the drawing to machine code. The spacing and depth of cut of the letters were not right but it does give a good example of what it can do.
Photo of router and test cut.

[Shedhand]

G'day mate. Had no idea what a CNC was before I stumbled on this thread. I withheld my comments because I didn't know what they are supposed to do. Now I know - brilliant. What an absolutely top notch job you've done. The build quality looks superb and you must be pretty chuffed. A greenie coming your way. I take back everyhting I ever said about sand gropers.:D:D:D
Cheers
Mike
PS: how much did it cost to build (or don't you want to be reminded?)?

[rodm]

Thanks Kev
I am blown away with these machines. I did not expect it to work so well first up and was really quite hesitant about firing it up. The mechanics are easy and you do not have to go to the detail I have to get a good result. There are machines made from MDF and allthread for under $500 that do a remarkable job. I'm a fussy sod so it has cost me three times that and about four months to build.

This machine will open up new doors for my woodworking. I can imagine things like a nice jewelery box with a carved message and personalised graphics.

If you had a stall at a market and most people being computer savy they could design their own and you could machine it in front of them. You would have a unique market and could charge appropriately.

As a fellow woodworker I would even talk to an Apple Eater. :D :D

[graydog]

congratulations
that is absolutely awsome
a great story of pushing the boundaries
i have always been curious about the possibilities with CNC machines but had never even thought anybody would take on such a complex project at home.
i would love to get in touch with you if i ever do try such a thing. i would like to take it on just for the challenge and a bit of a change from woodworking.

[rodm]

a great story of pushing the boundaries

i have always been curious about the possibilities with CNC machines

i would love to get in touch with you if i ever do try such a thing. i would like to take it on just for the challenge and a bit of a change from woodworking.

Well that pretty well sums up how I viewed the project. I knew nothing when I started and only know a little bit more now. I do know some things that can't be done. :D

The machine has been developed since my last post and it now cuts at 1200mm per minute and 1800mm/minute on rapids. The computer has been mounted inside the cabinet with a pull out drawer for the monitor and keyboard.

I have also fitted an electrical panel with an Emergency Switch and would have liked to fit a Panic Button but they don't make one. :D

There is further work and tuning to be done so I am avoiding using it until it is finished. I do sneek the occassional job in and it blows me away everytime.

The potential and the accuracy of these machines is awesome and they are fascinating to watch. It happens faster than your mind can interpret what is going on. Sort of "what the ..........." oh yeah that is what it is doing.

You are welcome to contact me if you decide to have a serious go at a CNC machine.

[bennylaird]

Yes these things can be a hobby in themselves with lots to learn and so much to gain.

[rodm]

I thought I would update this thread. A couple of weeks ago I built a compartment for the computer and an electrical panel. All recycled material so this explains the additional holes you can see.

The cabinet that houses the computer and driver board has a large 12 volt fan at the back connected through a manifold to pressurize the compartment. The idea is to keep dust out of these components and thanks to Cliff and Silent for the suggestion.

The switch panel in the middle has an Emergency stop button plus individual switches for computer, driver board, etc. There is a spare waiting for a vacuum of some sort.

The drawer houses the monitor, keyboard and mouse.

Prior to making this I had the computer, etc on a separate bench and there was a mass of tangled cords around the machine. Now the only cord coming out of the machine is the power cord - but I still manage to trip over it occasionally. :)

The router is going well and I am getting some good results in aluminum and wood. Mostly practice pieces while I learn how to use the software.

I swapped out the X and Y leadscrews with rolled ballscrews as I couldn't get the speed I wanted with the acme threads. I got the Home Shop CNC ones and now have 1200mm per minute cutting speed and 1800 mm per minute on rapids. I am very pleased with that so I can stop tinkering with this machine and start the next one. I enjoy building these as much as I do using them. :)

Just to bore you all some more it is really strange using this machine. I design my work in Corel Draw or Turbocad in my Office. I go out to the shed and load the file, clamp the workpiece and set a couple of parameters. It takes about 15 to 20 minutes to do this but I am getting better at it all the time. Turn on the machine, close the door (to keep noise down) and go back inside until I hear the router switch off. Not a speck of dust on me and the job is finished. I find it stange as you do not get the connection that one normally experiences with woodworking. :(

[gpbrowne]

Rod,

Your efforts to document the build are greatly appreciated. I've been fascinated by precision positioning systems for ages and i think a cnc is the next step for me.

Being in oz, getting access to the specialised parts is a problem. I have noted all the advice and sources mentioned in the CNC threads on this board. Are there any others you've since discovered or would have used with the benefit of hindsight?

Cheers
Gerry

[rodm]

Hi Gerry,
I haven't found any other suppliers and ebay is my main source these days. I have done a couple of small modifications to the machine in this thread and it has over 100 hrs of cutting time on it now.
I have started a second machine and have a build log for that on another forum. Second time round there is nowhere near as much head scratching and it is taking a lot less time to construct.
There is a growing interest in CNC routers and I regularly get emails from people wanting to build a machine. There is a group over east that meets for BBQ's and I can send you details if you are interested.

[Wood Butcher]

I have started a second machine and have a build log for that on another forum.

I have followed this thread with great interest as the idea of making one is very appealing. Would you mind posting the link to the other forum so those interested can have a look there??

Thanks

[bitingmidge]

Rod,

I'm wondering if there's any chance you could post the video on vmix or something similar. I missed the chance to see it when it was up!

http://www.vmix.com

There's no cost involved, and they convert your file to flash (which reduces it's quality a bit).

As an example, here is my Puddleduck Video page (http://www.vmix.com/viewArtist.php?ID=29738)

Cheers,

P

[rodm]

Rowan
Link is here http://www.cnczone.com/forums/


Peter,
Sorry I deleted the file a while back.

[Ozzie-Boof]

.....
There is a growing interest in CNC routers and I regularly get emails from people wanting to build a machine. There is a group over east that meets for BBQ's and I can send you details if you are interested.

Hi Rod,

Pleae send contact details for this group over east including location.

Thanks,
Ozzie
:)

[rodm]

Ozzie,
Here is an extract of the invitation. Looks like it will be 13th or 14th May but it is in Melbourne this time - I see you are in NSW. Just send YNNEB (Benny backwards) a PM and he will give you all the details. They are a great group of people at all skill levels and are very willing to share knowledge and help to each other. Most reside on CNCZone and I have given the link to that in my last post.

BBQ Invitation for CNC

For the past 3 years we have had a few BBQ get togethers for like minded CNC users.
We have had many turn up and the conversation has been fantastic.
Its great to hear and see what others are doing with thier machines.

There will be another one this May, in Melbourne. Full details will be posted soon.

Please regester your interest in this thread.

http://machsupport.com/forum/index.php?topic=580.0

We do get a great team of guys together.
It will be BYO food and drinks. Otherwise its free.

I hope to have a video projector this meeting, so that we can have some
tutorials from our CAD / CAM nerds, on the day

[MatCamOZ]

Guys
I have been using/ applying/ distributing CNC Routers www.matcam.com.au (http://www.matcam.com.au) (amongst others) for more than 12 years now and am quite happy to be of any assistance, wether with the machines or the CAD or the CAM or whatever.

[rodm]

I have been busy building a second CNC router (it is addictive :) ) and as I have been getting a few enquiries from Forum members about building CNC machines I thought I would update this post.

My second machine has a working envelope of 400mm by 400mm by 100mm depth. It is of similar construction to my first machine but I used commercial ralis and ballscrews.

I am happy with the smaller work area as it takes up less room in my shed and will do 90% of the current jobs I have been running.

I connected up the motors tonight and ran X axis at 15 metres a minute. That is very quick for a home made machine and I am not sure if a router bit can actually cut at this speed.

I have a build log for this machine on another forum and if anyone is interested then the link is here.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18369

A couple of photos to show you what I have been up to.

[wood lice]

could you use brass or stainless threaded rod for x,y,z or would the thread pitch be to small?

[echnidna]

Conventional thinking is that the threads too fine to get reasonable speeds from but if you were making a small machine for say circuit boards it would do.

However also keep in mind you are building a machine to do work while yoiu watch,
So does it really mattter how long it takes?

[rodm]

I agree Bob. If cost is really important then MDF design and allthread is the way to go. The machine will be slow compared to some but no big deal.

Most CNC machine builders eventually want speed from their machines so it is not impossible to retrofit larger pitch screws. The speed is partly because it does get boring after the novelty wears off and partly because some materials need speed to cut properly. I cut some polycarb this week and ended up with a 10mm melted blob on the end of a Vbit. I was using air but the feed was too slow at 600mm/min. Cure was to reduce the die grinder to the lowest RPM and crank up the machine to 1200mm/min. Perfect cut and the swarf was coming out in chips.

Just a point on using acme or conventional threads you really need to use double nuts and a connetion so that you can load up the nuts to take out the backlash.

[wood lice]

Thanks Bob and Rod, i have a threaded rod off an old lathe 9 threads to the inch i might use that for the x axis and brass rod for y/z.