AndrewPatrol 19th August 2021, 08:40 PM I think that’s what they’re called. I’m about to start a grandfather clock and instead of solid side panels of about 270w x 1150h I want to put in those panels that have stiles and mullions with panels inside. I’ve never made em before but up for a challenge.
Im looking to have a routed profile on inner edges of stiles and mullions. For the panels, I have a raising bit somewhere.
I have a domino and router table so was wondering what choices I have? Do I need one of those router bit sets , cope and stick I think they’re called. Or can I fashion something with the domino, saw table and router setup.
Open for suggestions.
elanjacobs 19th August 2021, 09:03 PM It's easier with cope and stick bits, but you can do it with normal bits, then trim the profile off the stiles where the rails go, mitre the profile to the inside corner and trim the rails to suit. I've done them this way before. Something like this:
499704
woodhog 20th August 2021, 01:12 PM I used rail and stile bit set to make raised panel doors for the bathroom cabinet and it was easy. Nice tight joints. Be sure to slow down the router's RPM.
AndrewPatrol 21st August 2021, 11:55 AM Thanks Guys, I’ve signed up for a rail/stile bit-set from Timbecon. This’ll be something new to learn, looking forward to it.
Greg Q 22nd August 2021, 08:44 PM Make sure that you make some test pieces from scrap, and when you hit on your desired depth of cut, keep a scrap piece for a set-up block for the next time you change bits. Or have a snap gauge and record the bit height above the table for reference.
I have a set from Infinity that I am delighted with. I added a top bearing to the cope cutter for ease of fence adjustment. Cut your copes first using a backer board, then do the stick cut. I have dominoed right through the intersection of rail and stile…works great for added strength where needed. If you do that increase the domino depth by half of the moulding on each cut.
AndrewPatrol 22nd August 2021, 09:56 PM Thanks for your reply Greg. question - which is cope/stick?
A
Greg Q 23rd August 2021, 07:54 AM I always understood the stick cutter to make the visible profile, and the mating cope is cut on the ends of the rails.
A snap gauge is a height checking device based on a digital caliper. There are other ways, but this thing is a pretty cheap digital height gauge:
I have one. The plastic body flexes enough to make the reading vary by a few hundredths of a mm, but that is still within the realm of woodworking.
I think that really all you need to do is do test cuts until you get the depth of the moulding set correctly, then make a short piece which you will save for future set-ups. Then do the same with the cope cutter until it cuts perfectly mating rails. Again save a reference piece for future set ups.
Infinity supplies little plastic set-up blocks but they are too small…you want a piece that is wide enough to see that it remains flat to the router table.
Greg
AndrewPatrol 23rd August 2021, 09:07 AM I always understood the stick cutter to make the visible profile, and the mating cope is cut on the ends of the rails.
A snap gauge is a height checking device based on a digital caliper. There are other ways, but this thing is a pretty cheap digital height gauge:
I have one. The plastic body flexes enough to make the reading vary by a few hundredths of a mm, but that is still within the realm of woodworking.
I think that really all you need to do is do test cuts until you get the depth of the moulding set correctly, then make a short piece which you will save for future set-ups. Then do the same with the cope cutter until it cuts perfectly mating rails. Again save a reference piece for future set ups.
Infinity supplies little plastic set-up blocks but they are too small…you want a piece that is wide enough to see that it remains flat to the router table.
Greg
thanks Greg, just realised I have a similar gadget for measuring so it’ll get put to use. And good tip about test pieces.
| |