Workshop layout ideas please

[J_Woodwork]

Hi All,
This is my first post here so wasn't sure what category to put it in.
I would like some input on how to arrange my workspace please.


Attached are the photos of my current workspace. The area behind the camera is a shared area that I can temporarily move workbenches into during projects but cannot store things in.
My goals are:
- Make the 3 bikes hang on a cart on wheels
- Space for a table saw somewhere (need to put some stuff under the house and use space more efficiently)
- Small bench to use with clamps for metalwork (so I don't wreck a nice wood one)
- Large bench for woodworking, maybe with t-tracks that wheels over the tool carts
- Maybe an overhead cabinet
- Do I keep the large long shelf or do I shorten it? Do I put it on wheels?
- Clamp rack (frees up tool drawers)
- Drill storage rack
- French cleat system?

Would anyone have some inspiration they would care to share?


IMG-7815 — ImgBB (https://ibb.co/qmHmrbH)
IMG-7816 — ImgBB (https://ibb.co/3ChJ0yt)
IMG-7817 — ImgBB (https://ibb.co/n8N2wq5)
IMG-7818 — ImgBB (https://ibb.co/tPNcvcq)

[riverbuilder]

You need a bigger space.
but you’re going well so far with drawer units on wheels. They could be joined and a bench top put on top of them. Use the walls, and the ceiling, lots of rarely used stuff ( like clamps) can go up there. Do a thorough evaluation of everything in there and it’s amount of use, or prospective use, if it isn’t used at least every third time you do work, store it somewhere else, or move it on. Got to be ruthless in a small space.

[BobL]

For light MW, a sheet of 3 mm thick steel with one edge folded over that covers all or part of a bench will protect the bench underneath. I operated like that for about 10 years before I got dedicated MW bench.

[havabeer69]

I'm going through a bit of a shed reshuffle at the moment.

something to really think about, do you really need a dedicated work bench? I built a long work bench that runs the length of some of my space and really 99% of the time it's just used as storage, i'll throw what I ever stuff i was kind of working on on it. It was never used for glue ups i'd just put something on my table saw table and do it on that.

as riverbuilder mentioned i'd just put a top on one of the many drawer sets and use that as a work bench, at least it allows access on all sides. if you put a top on the blue tool chest and got rid of the "work bench" you could probably almost fit a job sit table saw in there on rollers.

but yeah I would really consider some shelfs or racks as it kind of seems you have a lot of bibs and bobs hanging off the wall which could all be shelving.

[Treecycle]

Do you need racks that are so deep? I find that with deep racks or cupboards only the front section gets used as it's too hard to get to the items behind and often ends up with space behind because things just get placed at the front.
Do you have another area where you can store items not associated with your hobbies so you can have only what you require in this space? Do you really need all those items you have stored there or is it an accumulation over the years that might need to be culled a bit?
The random rack in the middle of the space near the roller door is just taking up valuable room.
The brick wall doesn't appear to have anything attached to it, whereas the lined wall seems to have quite a bit. If you didn't want to drill into the bricks you could put the taller shelving against it and use as much height as you can, and keep them shallow.
Having everything not in use against the wall opens up the area leaving the centre of the shop free.
Obviously the bikes are an important part of your life. They could be mounted on a rack on wheels so that when you want to use the shop area it could be wheeled into that other area and then wheeled back again when you have finished for the day.
I only have a fairly small workshop and I hate working in a cluttered area, so my shop has evolved over time to try and make it as comfortable as possible, but also have as much gear as I feel I need in there. I often watch Youtube videos on small shop tours just to get any new ideas that might help improve my space. This (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCtRWwvGHeY) one is a true inspiration but I'm glad mine isn't quite that small.

[Scribbly Gum]

One of the biggest mistakes in workshop design in small spaces is cramming too much in.
You need room to actually work, and space to place articles being worked on - not on the workbench, but elsewhere. And you need room to be able to work around whatever it is you are building. Even a small project has glue-up time and needs a space out of the way where that can be left.
Keep that in mind with whatever you are doing, and don't fill all the space with tools.
Tom

[scottbr]

First of all, have a cull. I'm doing that now. There are things I have had for years and never used, so out they go - I have accepted the fact as soon as I toss something I'll need it, but that's the way it goes.
You mentioned you need to put some stuff under the house? Do that now.
Then put up high the stuff you want to keep but will rarely need to get your hands on.
Once you have done the above, you can start planning

I helped a mate recently with his shed. I took around some huge plastic tarps to keep stuff safe from rain and we dragged everything out into the backyard. Absolutely everything. Then he hosed out the shed and put in some racks. The following weekend he started going through stuff and only put into the shed the things he wanted to keep. It was cleansing exercise - beer helped.

It's much easier to get organised when you start with a clean slate.

[verawood]

Welcome to the forum

[havabeer69]

First of all, have a cull. I'm doing that now. There are things I have had for years and never used, so out they go - I have accepted the fact as soon as I toss something I'll need it, but that's the way it goes.
You mentioned you need to put some stuff under the house? Do that now.
Then put up high the stuff you want to keep but will rarely need to get your hands on.
Once you have done the above, you can start planning

I helped a mate recently with his shed. I took around some huge plastic tarps to keep stuff safe from rain and we dragged everything out into the backyard. Absolutely everything. Then he hosed out the shed and put in some racks. The following weekend he started going through stuff and only put into the shed the things he wanted to keep. It was cleansing exercise - beer helped.

It's much easier to get organised when you start with a clean slate.

Also helps to highlight just how much stuff we accumulate and dont use.

[Treecycle]

Looks like J_Woodwork must be busy putting all those ideas in practice as he hasn't been back since making their first post:((

[BobL]

Looks like J_Woodwork must be busy putting all those ideas in practice as he hasn't been back since making their first post:((

10 days without a response is not unusual for some folks - some easily get get overwhelmed by the "all the advice"

[J_Woodwork]

You need a bigger space.
but you’re going well so far with drawer units on wheels. They could be joined and a bench top put on top of them. Use the walls, and the ceiling, lots of rarely used stuff ( like clamps) can go up there. Do a thorough evaluation of everything in there and it’s amount of use, or prospective use, if it isn’t used at least every third time you do work, store it somewhere else, or move it on. Got to be ruthless in a small space.




Thanks. Bigger space is not possible at the moment but I guess I could always try and negotiate more room. Ceiling is hard as I have a garage roller door right above it. I certainly need to go through everything with a very strict mind on whether to keep it or not or whether to relocate it. Where do you tend to store pieces of hardware, rope, wire, handles etc? I have a lot of that in tubs but could relocate it to somewhere much less convenient





For light MW, a sheet of 3 mm thick steel with one edge folded over that covers all or part of a bench will protect the bench underneath. I operated like that for about 10 years before I got dedicated MW bench.

Thankyou. I hadn't though of that. Do you think 3mm is thick enough to stop welding heat going through to a wood worksurface underneath? I guess I could also tuck the steel behind a bench when not in use.


I'm going through a bit of a shed reshuffle at the moment.

something to really think about, do you really need a dedicated work bench? I built a long work bench that runs the length of some of my space and really 99% of the time it's just used as storage, i'll throw what I ever stuff i was kind of working on on it. It was never used for glue ups i'd just put something on my table saw table and do it on that.

as riverbuilder mentioned i'd just put a top on one of the many drawer sets and use that as a work bench, at least it allows access on all sides. if you put a top on the blue tool chest and got rid of the "work bench" you could probably almost fit a job sit table saw in there on rollers.

but yeah I would really consider some shelfs or racks as it kind of seems you have a lot of bibs and bobs hanging off the wall which could all be shelving.

Do you regret having such a long bench ever?
Yeh I am considering putting much smaller castors on two of the rolling benches than running a workbench across the top. (small castors are needed to stop the bench from being too high). Unfortunately the blue bench is my main one for tools but the top spreads open like wings so I can't put a proper top on it.
Yeh I was considering shelfs I just need to work out where to relocate everything. I used to be big into cycling so need a lot of wheels accessible but that that hobby has deteriorated in the last 18 months so am a bit unsure whether to keep it accessible. Do you have any over head cabinet space? If so could I please have a photo?


Do you need racks that are so deep? I find that with deep racks or cupboards only the front section gets used as it's too hard to get to the items behind and often ends up with space behind because things just get placed at the front.
Do you have another area where you can store items not associated with your hobbies so you can have only what you require in this space? Do you really need all those items you have stored there or is it an accumulation over the years that might need to be culled a bit?
The random rack in the middle of the space near the roller door is just taking up valuable room.
The brick wall doesn't appear to have anything attached to it, whereas the lined wall seems to have quite a bit. If you didn't want to drill into the bricks you could put the taller shelving against it and use as much height as you can, and keep them shallow.
Having everything not in use against the wall opens up the area leaving the centre of the shop free.
Obviously the bikes are an important part of your life. They could be mounted on a rack on wheels so that when you want to use the shop area it could be wheeled into that other area and then wheeled back again when you have finished for the day.
I only have a fairly small workshop and I hate working in a cluttered area, so my shop has evolved over time to try and make it as comfortable as possible, but also have as much gear as I feel I need in there. I often watch Youtube videos on small shop tours just to get any new ideas that might help improve my space. This (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCtRWwvGHeY) one is a true inspiration but I'm glad mine isn't quite that small.

Thankyou for your input. I think it's a bit of both. I do cull regularly but I probably am not ruthless enough. To deal with the depth of the shelves I tend to use containers, this also means I can bring them out to the work bench to rummage through etc. I do have a space under the house but it's essentially a crawl space so a very big difference in accessibility.

The random rack seemed to just happen when I ran out of room on the shelf. It also fills a bit of a void area in front of the shelf.
Good point on the brick wall is basically where my area ends and someone elses starts. Great idea on the shallow shelving in front of the bricks though
Yeh the bikes are a hard one, very bulky. I am considering a rack on wheels just not sure on form factor. I can basically wheel them into a shared space when I need more space for a large project once I make a cart.
Could you please share some of your workshop photos with me?
Thanks for the video link, that is truly a small shop.


One of the biggest mistakes in workshop design in small spaces is cramming too much in.
You need room to actually work, and space to place articles being worked on - not on the workbench, but elsewhere. And you need room to be able to work around whatever it is you are building. Even a small project has glue-up time and needs a space out of the way where that can be left.
Keep that in mind with whatever you are doing, and don't fill all the space with tools.
Tom

Thanks for your input. It's always hard to not keep buying tools to fill the space. Could you please share some photos of your workshop?


First of all, have a cull. I'm doing that now. There are things I have had for years and never used, so out they go - I have accepted the fact as soon as I toss something I'll need it, but that's the way it goes.
You mentioned you need to put some stuff under the house? Do that now.
Then put up high the stuff you want to keep but will rarely need to get your hands on.
Once you have done the above, you can start planning

I helped a mate recently with his shed. I took around some huge plastic tarps to keep stuff safe from rain and we dragged everything out into the backyard. Absolutely everything. Then he hosed out the shed and put in some racks. The following weekend he started going through stuff and only put into the shed the things he wanted to keep. It was cleansing exercise - beer helped.

It's much easier to get organised when you start with a clean slate.

Great starting point. Definitely need to go through things and cull or move what I don't need. Always a very hard process though.
Sounds like a great exercise. Once I work out my plans i'm going to do similar, rip it all out, put up maybe some OSB I can screw into etc.


Welcome to the forum
Thankyou


Also helps to highlight just how much stuff we accumulate and dont use.
It’s the whole ‘but I may use this another time’


Looks like J_Woodwork must be busy putting all those ideas in practice as he hasn't been back since making their first postfile:////Users/Josh/Library/Group%20Containers/UBF8T346G9.Office/TemporaryItems/msohtmlclip/clip_image001.gif

Sorry life has been busy. I value everyone’s input though so everyone’s post gets a reply


10 days without a response is not unusual for some folks - some easily get get overwhelmed by the "all the advice"
Been focussing on many things aha

[BobL]

Thankyou. I hadn't though of that. Do you think 3mm is thick enough to stop welding heat going through to a wood worksurface underneath? I guess I could also tuck the steel behind a bench when not in use.

Depends on what you are welding, unless you are continuously welding at ~120+A it will usually be enough to spread the heat.
I used a 3mm plate (it was actually a base for a market umbrella I picked up on the side of the road) for many years with a 120A welder with no problems.
Rather than protection against conductive heat through to a bench top what I found was more important was guarding against against burns from spatter and/or sparks for which 3mm is plenty.
If you wanted to get fancy you could put a $10 fire blanket or better still use some fire bricks/tile between the bench and the 3mm sheet.

It also depends if you want to use the steel sheet as a reference surface - if so a thicker sheet would be better.

For welding small stuff I can recommend a removable vice and a secondary table like this.
That's a 12mm thick steel bench top, bench is surrounded by a fume hood to extract welding/grining fumes etc.
Vice is attached to a SHS post which fits into a socket under the table. An M16 corner locking bolt firmly locks it into the socket
Secondary table is clamped into vice - stuff gets cramped and welded direct onto the table.
Then as you can see it gets ground WAY.

500601 500602 500603

[Treecycle]

The random rack seemed to just happen when I ran out of room on the shelf. It also fills a bit of a void area in front of the shelf.
Good point on the brick wall is basically where my area ends and someone elses starts. Great idea on the shallow shelving in front of the bricks though
Yeh the bikes are a hard one, very bulky. I am considering a rack on wheels just not sure on form factor. I can basically wheel them into a shared space when I need more space for a large project once I make a cart.
Could you please share some of your workshop photos with me?
Thanks for the video link, that is truly a small shop.

Here are a couple of photos of my little space. Nothing too flash in there but I try to keep all my machines against the walls when not in use as the smaller machines are all on wheels. Any shelving or cabinets are shallow to leave as much space as possible in the centre to work in. You can fit a lot of tools on shadow boards and in shallow cabinets making them easy to access and clearly visible.
The length of my shop is okay but it is only 3m wide so everything needs to be stored well and unnecessary items kept to a minimum.

500624 500623

[doug3030]

One thing I have found to help with space management.

I used to put my shelving along the walls and that seemed to work at the time. I have since started putting my shelving perpendicular to the walls and spaced a bit apart. Machines on wheels live in the bays between the shelves and get wheeled out when needed and wheeled back at the end of their use. Then other machines can be wheeled out and used. For example a project might start with tablesaw, jointer and thicknesser out and in use to dimension stock.

Once dimensioning is done they could be replaced with router table, small bandsaw and belt and disk sander for cutting the joinery and fine fitting. It does mean that sometimes you need to move a few machines to get into the shelves to find something but by putting the things you need most in the more accessible positions it really is not an issue.

Most of the shelving is housing lengths of timber which can be removed through the ends of the shelving. Another advantage is that both sides most shelves is accessible so there is no back or front to the shelf, just a better side to access it from to get the wanted item.

[J_Woodwork]

Depends on what you are welding, unless you are continuously welding at ~120+A it will usually be enough to spread the heat.
I used a 3mm plate (it was actually a base for a market umbrella I picked up on the side of the road) for many years with a 120A welder with no problems.
Rather than protection against conductive heat through to a bench top what I found was more important was guarding against against burns from spatter and/or sparks for which 3mm is plenty.
If you wanted to get fancy you could put a $10 fire blanket or better still use some fire bricks/tile between the bench and the 3mm sheet.

It also depends if you want to use the steel sheet as a reference surface - if so a thicker sheet would be better.

For welding small stuff I can recommend a removable vice and a secondary table like this.
That's a 12mm thick steel bench top, bench is surrounded by a fume hood to extract welding/grining fumes etc.
Vice is attached to a SHS post which fits into a socket under the table. An M16 corner locking bolt firmly locks it into the socket
Secondary table is clamped into vice - stuff gets cramped and welded direct onto the table.
Then as you can see it gets ground WAY.


Hi,
Thanks for that. Great idea with the fire blanket. A reference surface is probably very important so will have to consider that.

Cheers for sharing the photos, I definetely have a lot to think about.
Can you please provide more information on the fume hood?

[J_Woodwork]

Here are a couple of photos of my little space. Nothing too flash in there but I try to keep all my machines against the walls when not in use as the smaller machines are all on wheels. Any shelving or cabinets are shallow to leave as much space as possible in the centre to work in. You can fit a lot of tools on shadow boards and in shallow cabinets making them easy to access and clearly visible.
The length of my shop is okay but it is only 3m wide so everything needs to be stored well and unnecessary items kept to a minimum.



Hi,
Thanks for the input.
Your workshop looks amazing. Gives me some great ideas. Looks like the perfect size space

[J_Woodwork]

One thing I have found to help with space management.

I used to put my shelving along the walls and that seemed to work at the time. I have since started putting my shelving perpendicular to the walls and spaced a bit apart. Machines on wheels live in the bays between the shelves and get wheeled out when needed and wheeled back at the end of their use. Then other machines can be wheeled out and used. For example a project might start with tablesaw, jointer and thicknesser out and in use to dimension stock.

Once dimensioning is done they could be replaced with router table, small bandsaw and belt and disk sander for cutting the joinery and fine fitting. It does mean that sometimes you need to move a few machines to get into the shelves to find something but by putting the things you need most in the more accessible positions it really is not an issue.

Most of the shelving is housing lengths of timber which can be removed through the ends of the shelving. Another advantage is that both sides most shelves is accessible so there is no back or front to the shelf, just a better side to access it from to get the wanted item.

Hi,
What a great idea. I had a thought about moving my shelves out to access both sides but never about a 'parking space' for machines. Could you please share some photos?

[BobL]

Hi,
Thanks for that. Great idea with the fire blanket. A reference surface is probably very important so will have to consider that.

Cheers for sharing the photos, I definetely have a lot to think about.
Can you please provide more information on the fume hood?

My fume hood is detailed here
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/bobls-shed-fit-134670/19#post1497164

It sounds like you need to have a read of some of the detailed/longer threads in the "SHED" forum.
Here is link to the shed subforum sorted into the longer threads first - grab yourself a cuppa and have a brown.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f245?sort=replycount