MWF FEED
13th September 2021, 08:50 PM
1) A few months ago, toolmaker neighbour gave me an old keyless chuck.
"VALIDUS" brand. It had no arbor.
2) Found an old broken chuck with a workable MT3->JT6 arbor.
Spent some pleasant time on the Hercus, machining the chuck off the arbor:
IMG_1733.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393951&d=1631519836)
3) Inserted arbor A into chuck C, and started using it.
After tightening on a few different drills (#4 centre, 3/16", 5/16", 1/2"), it was obvious something was wrong. It felt like it was full of gravel.
4) Sprayed a solvent (degreaser) in, blew it out with an air gun, repeated a few times, dribbled some oil in the back, tested again. Not much better. If I push the sleeve toward the arbor, it turns smoothly most of the way, until the last bit of tightening. If I pull the hood away from the arbor, it grinds all the way.
5) Today, try to work out how to disassemble this thing. Unlike keyed chucks, where the sleeve taps toward the jaws and past the front of the chuck, this style of keyless chuck is small at the back and the front of the chuck. Eventually found a YouTube video that showed the knurled half of the sleeve just unthreading off the back part.
6) Try to grab back part in a lathe chuck, and turn front off with Stilsons around scrap Aluminium. It slips in lathe chuck. Try to grab knurled half in lathe chuck. It slips.
7) Knurled half in large bench vice, Stilsons on back half. Success:
IMG_1923.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393954&d=1631522302)
The jaws look OK, but spinning back part of chuck is full of rusty paste.
If you look closely, you can see ball bearings with facets on them:
IMG_1924.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393956&d=1631522409)
I'm guessing that the grease dried up, and coolant sat in the back of the chuck for a long time.
Long enough for some of the ball bearings to rust in place, and be ground away by the surfaces.
8) Am soaking most of the parts in Kero overnight. Will try to carefully clean the bearing containing part tomorrow, and see if I can just get some BBs of an appropriate size to get this working again.
P.S. Here is a helpful diagram:
drill_chuck_keyless_diagram.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393957&d=1631522525)
that I only found tonight, after I had already stripped the chuck :~
Attached Images
https://metalworkforums.com/images/attach/jpg.gif drill_chuck_keyless_diagram.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393957&d=1631522525) (83.4 KB)
https://metalworkforums.com/images/attach/jpg.gif IMG_1924.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393956&d=1631522409) (134.6 KB)
https://metalworkforums.com/images/attach/jpg.gif IMG_1923.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393954&d=1631522302) (193.1 KB)
https://metalworkforums.com/images/attach/jpg.gif IMG_1733.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393951&d=1631519836) (185.3 KB)
Read the full thread at metalworkforums.com... (https://metalworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=207100&goto=newpost)
"VALIDUS" brand. It had no arbor.
2) Found an old broken chuck with a workable MT3->JT6 arbor.
Spent some pleasant time on the Hercus, machining the chuck off the arbor:
IMG_1733.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393951&d=1631519836)
3) Inserted arbor A into chuck C, and started using it.
After tightening on a few different drills (#4 centre, 3/16", 5/16", 1/2"), it was obvious something was wrong. It felt like it was full of gravel.
4) Sprayed a solvent (degreaser) in, blew it out with an air gun, repeated a few times, dribbled some oil in the back, tested again. Not much better. If I push the sleeve toward the arbor, it turns smoothly most of the way, until the last bit of tightening. If I pull the hood away from the arbor, it grinds all the way.
5) Today, try to work out how to disassemble this thing. Unlike keyed chucks, where the sleeve taps toward the jaws and past the front of the chuck, this style of keyless chuck is small at the back and the front of the chuck. Eventually found a YouTube video that showed the knurled half of the sleeve just unthreading off the back part.
6) Try to grab back part in a lathe chuck, and turn front off with Stilsons around scrap Aluminium. It slips in lathe chuck. Try to grab knurled half in lathe chuck. It slips.
7) Knurled half in large bench vice, Stilsons on back half. Success:
IMG_1923.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393954&d=1631522302)
The jaws look OK, but spinning back part of chuck is full of rusty paste.
If you look closely, you can see ball bearings with facets on them:
IMG_1924.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393956&d=1631522409)
I'm guessing that the grease dried up, and coolant sat in the back of the chuck for a long time.
Long enough for some of the ball bearings to rust in place, and be ground away by the surfaces.
8) Am soaking most of the parts in Kero overnight. Will try to carefully clean the bearing containing part tomorrow, and see if I can just get some BBs of an appropriate size to get this working again.
P.S. Here is a helpful diagram:
drill_chuck_keyless_diagram.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393957&d=1631522525)
that I only found tonight, after I had already stripped the chuck :~
Attached Images
https://metalworkforums.com/images/attach/jpg.gif drill_chuck_keyless_diagram.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393957&d=1631522525) (83.4 KB)
https://metalworkforums.com/images/attach/jpg.gif IMG_1924.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393956&d=1631522409) (134.6 KB)
https://metalworkforums.com/images/attach/jpg.gif IMG_1923.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393954&d=1631522302) (193.1 KB)
https://metalworkforums.com/images/attach/jpg.gif IMG_1733.jpg (https://metalworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=393951&d=1631519836) (185.3 KB)
Read the full thread at metalworkforums.com... (https://metalworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=207100&goto=newpost)