what to look for and test when inspecting a 2nd hand Vicmarc VL200 lathe for sale?

[Plectropomus]

Dear brains trust,

Next Wednedsday I am travelling a considerable distance to view a well-used VL200. It has an after-market electronic variable speed controller fitted. It has been used by a professional craftsman amongst his fleet of lathes for different purposes.

I have been learning to turn on a VL200 with mechanical speed control at my local Men's Shed, and really like this machine.

By trawling this Forum I have picked up some things to look for, such as:
a) do the centres of the headstock and tail stock meet, b) what type (if any) scroll chuck is supplied, and c) are there indexing pins.

However, I am looking for advice on how to detect:
1) any serious wear on bearings and
2) the presence of any serious vibration and "out of round",
3) the condition of scroll chucks (without actually opening them up)
4) cracks in the casting? Or motor mounting?
5) electronic issues

I am also looking for any other hints on simple tests and inspections I can do on site with some wood.

{Along the lines of my early, fruitless, years in the 1990's looking for a HiLux 4WD at Government auctions....by then the Govt had banned the source of vehicles being advertised due to the inordinate lost time and number of phone calls fielded by staff from potential bidders seeking "history of use". So the "old hands" I repeatedly saw on inspection days showed me how to feel inside the chassis members with a wet finger...red dust equals GOOD, white sand salty to taste and Casuarina needles equalled beach driving and BAD. Also to look for serious dings on the bash plate. True "detectives for the defectives", were those fellows}

Cheers, Mike

[Mobyturns]

The evolution of the VL200 spans a couple of decades so a fair bit will come down to what version its is - mechanical VS, 6 speed etc. The castings are very robust and can stand quite a bit of abuse. I would be looking at bearings, though they are relatively easily replaced, as is the belt (6 speed) and the tailstock quill if it has done a lot of boring for pepper mills etc.

I see a couple of lathes available in FNQ and a very good mechanical VS in the Mackay region. The Mackay one I know the owner - good lathe.

Chucks - free scroll movement is what you want. Light surface rust is OK and can be restored easily. Heavily rusted - pass!

Edit - with EVS it all depends upon the VFD unit and how old it is (generation) and how it has been setup / programmed. Is it DC variable speed or a single phase to 3ph VFD?? Not sure of your turning proficiency but asking the vendor to take decent roughing cuts on a largish bowl / platter blank will highlight low RPM torque issues.

[Plectropomus]

thanks, Moby,

I will determine the source and age of the after-market electronic variable speed, and try and ascertain the year of manufacture of the original lathe. Thanks for the hint about roughing cuts. This one is in Kuranda, and was hidden on gumtree under a spelling mistake and a few Woodfast lathes.

Cheers

[NeilS]

If the lathe is being sold by the professional craftsman, just ask about the condition of the lathe and any issues. In my experience they will tell you everything you need to know about its condition.

If it has passed through another person's hands and they can't/won't tell you about the lathe, follow Moby's suggestions.

Where I haven't been able to talk to the previous user I have taken a light engineering hammer and a screw driver with me to check out lathes. The engineering hammer to lightly tap the castings and the screw driver to listen to the bearings... not that worn bearings would be a deal breaker, they are nor expensive, but you may be able to haggle on the price if you have the hassle of having to replace them.

Also check the belt. Not that a new belts are that expensive, but replacing one can be a time consuming fiddle... and another basis for negotiating on the price.

[Plectropomus]

Thanks NeilS.
How do you use the screwdriver to listen to the bearings?

I have looked at the Vicmarc video of changing a belt and greasing bearings, but the bearings are not immediately visible.

I am thinking that you might be placing the screwdriver shaft on the spindle or handbrake wheel and somehow detecting vibration that way, akin to a tuning fork?

I also came across an interesting test to diagnose a rotational knock on a UK forum. The belt is loosened and a cordless drill is used to rotate the spindle. If there is no knock, then the problem is in the motor bearing(s).

Cheers, Mike

[NeilS]

How do you use the screwdriver to listen to the bearings?

...

I am thinking that you might be placing the screwdriver shaft on the spindle or handbrake wheel and somehow detecting vibration that way, akin to a tuning fork?



Put driver end of screwdriver on bearing housing and put handle end against ear, but don't let driver end slip off onto moving shaft parts...:C

It's a poor man's mechanic's stethoscope (https://www.totaltools.com.au/stethoscope-with-steel-extension?gclid=CjwKCAiAksyNBhAPEiwAlDBeLEumcUPwd6Abl000ZGpMSTHhStiNpQbopXanfn8f-jLYqlS5LvjeIBoC1WwQAvD_BwE), which are safer as you can see where the probe is while listening with your head well away from the moving parts.

Of course, you have to recognise the sound of a problem bearing when you hear it. That is something you learn from listening to both good and bad bearings. The term 'growl' is often used to describe the sound of a bad bearing and will often change with change in the RPM.