Woodfast Junior - Wheel Work

[Anorak Bob]

A year and a half ago BobL gave me a Woodfast Universal combination machine along with most of its accessories.

Bob had moved the original bandsaw on before I expressed interest in acquiring a combination machine. I knew a fellow down in Cowaramup who had a little 10" Woodfast saw and I had a 14" Delta look a like that took up too much room so we swapped saws. https://www.woodworkforums.com/f153/tale-woodfast-combination-machines-235983-post2217606#post2217606

506229.

The original tee section tyres had started to disintegrate. I obtained a new pair of flat blue urethane tyres from the US. When I purchased the tyres I mentioned to the seller that the rim of the wheel was grooved to accommodate the original tyre's tongue. He suggested filling the groove with automotive body filler. Research on this forum suggested otherwise. From memory, the fellow who obtained Bob's bandsaw used a strip of slightly too high rubber to both fill the groove and achieve crowning.

While the rubber strip seems like an easy solution, there is a possible problem. The upper wheel has been subjected to considerable lightening to balance the wheel.

506230 506231

I can't imagine a strip of 4.5mm thick rubber sitting evenly over the top of the chain drilled lightening. I had thought that maybe a 7mm wide ( the groove's width ) piece of shim placed over the expanse of holes might remove some of the faceting that might result if the rubber directly contacted the remaining metal around the holes.

Has anyone encountered this problem and successfully solved it ?

Bob.

[China]

The problem arises because the wheel are designed to have vulcanised tires, which are balanced and crowned, so the balancing holes are not a concern, if you can find aftermarket tires to fit you could try filling the entire groove with rubber strip, if you just fill the drilled area it will most likely throw the wheel out of balance

[Anorak Bob]

The suggested plan was not to fill the balancing holes, but to cover them with shim before inserting a continuous rubber strip to fill the groove.

[Tom trees]

Isn't that what JB weld is for?
Never used the stuff, nor know anything about it, but I'd be looking into it.

Is there noticeable heavy spot, could try adding magnets to see if you think whatever suitable filler/plug might be troublesome.

Could try using something like this stuff, which I guess you can find locally for a few quid, plenty cheap enough to test making plugs with, there is test examples also, which could possibly be the norm.
Hopefully regular contact adhesive like Pattex will be suitable for bonding this "rubber" to cast iron.


SOLID PLY REINFORCED INSERTION SIDE SKIRT NEOPRENE RUBBER STRIP VARIOUS SIZES | eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-PLY-REINFORCED-INSERTION-SIDE-SKIRT-NEOPRENE-RUBBER-STRIP-VARIOUS-SIZES-/371486065417?var=&hash=item567e4b8309:m:mUBFCz8Jxwq0-QA__JbPwtg&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=&campid=5338413729&toolid=10001&mpt=3285593)

[BobL]

I think the wheels are Al so magnets will not help.

Technical fix.

Fill the holes with JB weld or similar and note the weight of JB Weld used.

Then make an equivalent weight/radius steam punk or "suitable to era" brass weight (it could be arc shaped if it helps with clearance?) that attaches to the opposite (radial) side of the wheel to counter balance the JB weld.

The weight/radius maths is not difficult but if you need help I can help you with the with it. If you make the counter weight slightly over weight you can then drill it inset to remove any remaining vibe.

[Anorak Bob]

I think the wheels are Al so magnets will not help.

Technical fix.

Fill the holes with JB weld or similar and note the weight of JB Weld used.

Then make an equivalent weight/radius steam punk or "suitable to era" brass weight (it could be arc shaped if it helps with clearance?) that attaches to the opposite (radial) side of the wheel to counter balance the JB weld.

The weight/radius maths is not difficult but if you need help I can help you with the with it. If you make the counter weight slightly over weight you can then drill it inset to remove any remaining vibe.


Bob,
Our Ikea kitchen scales are probably not up to the task. You will undoubtedly have something more capable !:U

Rather than JB Weld epoxy I'm thinking that body filler would be a far easier material to work with. As an alternative to counterbalancing I could simply cover the balancing holes with shim or even masking tape then fill the entire groove then use your earlier suggestion of building up the rim with tape to achieve crowning.

Bob.

[BobL]

Bob,
Our Ikea kitchen scales are probably not up to the task. You will undoubtedly have something more capable !:U .
Yep no worries.


Rather than JB Weld epoxy I'm thinking that body filler would be a far easier material to work with.
Yep


As an alternative to counterbalancing I could simply cover the balancing holes with shim or even masking tape then fill the entire groove then use your earlier suggestion of building up the rim with tape to achieve crowning..

Yep, that would save a lot of effort.