cubism 2022 revisited hughie

[hughie]

Will give it a go, have a few ideas floating around in the grey matter, just gotta get em out and on to paper, sometimes its easy said than done.

Did miss something? What size are the images supposed to be?

[Chief Tiff]

Welcome down the rabbit hole!

[Simplicity]

Excellent Hughie,

Can’t wait too see what you do.

Cheers Matt.

[Bushmiller]

Will give it a go, have a few ideas floating around in the grey matter, just gotta get em out and on to paper, sometimes its easy said than done.

Did miss something? What size are the images supposed to be?

Hughie

It is good to see you enter into the spirit. Well done.

The images are no different to normal posting. Just to conserve the Forum's capacity I try to keep images as small as possible, but frequently due to my poor photographic skills or the quality of the old material I research, I find I have to resort to a medium size image or a large image. As I expect you know this can be done when posting by double clicking on your pix and then choosing the size option. If you are referring to the kb/mb size, the Forum will automatically reduce the file size if it exceeds a certain size (around 350kb maximum I think) or you can do this yourself. I do the latter as loading the pix becomes a little quicker.

Viewers to the thread, including the judges, can always click on the pix to enlarge them and view them separately. Apologies if I am telling things you already know, but this information is as much for others as yourself.

Good luck with the comp.

Regards
Paul

[hughie]

Hughie

It is good to see you enter into the spirit. Well done.

The images are no different to normal posting. Just to conserve the Forum's capacity I try to keep images as small as possible, but frequently due to my poor photographic skills or the quality of the old material I research, I find I have to resort to a medium size image or a large image. As I expect you know this can be done when posting by double clicking on your pix and then choosing the size option. If you are referring to the kb/mb size, the Forum will automatically reduce the file size if it exceeds a certain size (around 350kb maximum I think) or you can do this yourself. I do the latter as loading the pix becomes a little quicker.

Viewers to the thread, including the judges, can always click on the pix to enlarge them and view them separately. Apologies if I am telling things you already know, but this information is as much for others as yourself.

Good luck with the comp.

Regards
Paul
Hi Paul ,

I work with a few online galleries and they are generally very fussy on image quality, stipulating minimal pixels etc etc. number of views, what type of views etc
hughie

[hughie]

Ok do you want work in progress type images as we go along? I kinda under way, its going to be busy as I have a couple of others on the go as well. What I have in mind is an idea I have had for awhile, spirals with a twist so to speak, a fair bit of layout with even more carving. It will be in Blackwood from the Southern Highlands NSW an area that produces some spectacular Blackwood equal to if not better than Tassy.

[Bushmiller]

Hughie

WIP images are welcomed. I would suggest that you have a glance at other entries in this comp and also in the Plane Comp (https://www.woodworkforums.com/f316) that finished a while back to get some idea.

Regards
Paul

[Simplicity]

Hughie,
Basically what Paul said, the whole scope of the competition is the doing an showing bit, has in showing us the journey,an the end result.
So you now have two of three judges saying basically the same thing,[emoji6].
I can organise Judge number three too jump in hear if you want????.

You may be the first with using Timber from the NSW Highlands !.

Cheers Matt.

[hughie]

no thats fine, just getting my head around this as its a bit different to what i am used to

[hughie]

Ok here goes the WIP a bit of a first I have never actually shown WIP fully. So it will be warts and all. :D

One of the interesting aspects of turning this particular Blackwood. It came from a mature tree with a dia of around 1.2m the grain is a bit curly, compressed, has a fair amount of silica in it and is prone to tear out.

The first image is a SN2 chuck with my propriety jaw design to hold over size blanks for roughing, There are a couple of guide lines drawn with a texta . The smaller to the end is for the foot dia which is around 76mm and the larger is the approx location of the largest diameter, as I will be turning the bottom half and finishing it and holding the piece by the foot to complete the outside and the inside. Challenging? Nah not really as this is my standard modus operandi and have been using it for years with very few stuff ups.

Subsequent images are as follows , my doodling's and concept ideas. I find I have to be able to draw what is in my head to clarify the idea, so consequently I have 2-3 note books full of ideas, wild thoughts and concepts.
The remainder images of a hybrid tool and cutter cobbled together out of bits and pieces in the workshop. The cutter is different in that its an old blunt Carbide cup cutter from a CNC metal turning lathe. Sharpened and shaped some, the actual grade of the cutter is unknown but given it is from a tool and die workshop making aluminium drawing dies I suspect the edge retention will be good, time will tell.

[Simplicity]

Hughie,

That’s perfect just what we want too see,[emoji106][emoji106].

Cheers Matt.

[labr@]

I find I have to be able to draw what is in my head to clarify the idea, so consequently I have 2-3 note books full of ideas, wild thoughts and concepts.

So I'm not the only one:). I use a lot of question marks like you do but your doodles look like technical sketches compared to mine.

[hughie]

Ran into a small issue that grew into a major so much so will have change blanks and go to a piece of Camphor Laurel. One of the down sides of cutting up a fallen tree is rot, namely white rot. The Blackwood had a small amount and didnt look to bad until I got into it, it is till fine for turning but no good for this piece I intend to embellish it with a fair amount of carving and it wouldnt hold together.

[hughie]

Re-chucking SN2 with long jaws so I can access the foot area in required in the final shaping. The steady type is another one of mine done like this to allow full access with my hollowing systems with a laser. The bottom half has had the final sand and cleaned up with EEE with a little DO just to stop finger marks during the rest of the process. This is my standard approach to hollowing etc. I run CA a couple of times around the foot to give it additional strength and then leave over night.
So from here I will finish the outside and hollow it, before marking it out on the other lathe I will run the inertia sander over the whole outside with 240 grit to make the pencil markings stand out very clearly and easy to follow [ HB-2HB pencil ]
Any queries fire away

[hughie]

Part 3
Time for hollowing, what's important is grain orientation especially if going to embellish the surface and at this point you can see if the choice is going be ok. The shape or form has also is important it can either enhance your embellishment or down grade it. Drilled the centre with a 30mm Forstner bit all the way down to with 5-10mm of the depth I want and have done the preliminary opening up the throat to give access into the corner of the piece.

[hughie]

Ok the hollowing is done and sanded to around 240 grit and internally with a inertia type sander as they produce [IMHO] the best finish bar none. When I discovered this many years ago I found there were very limited choices on internal inertia sanders not too mention high priced to boot. So I came up with my own and it has proved very successful. The design will allow a view of the inside from the side, not unlike some I have done already see the first image . But its a bit more complicated with two arcs I guess you could say opposing.
514404514405

What I have found that with building your own lathe there isnt much standard gear that will actually fit and quite often you have to build your own. The steady I used here is no exception, I call it the universal steady as it fits both lathes easily

514406514407

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Is that a ball joint on the end of the knuckle on your inertial sander? :think:

[hughie]

Is that a ball joint on the end of the knuckle on your inertial sander? :think:

Thought about it but ended up with this arrangement as it keeps the cost down. Shown here is a 40mm dia head as larger heads need bigger openings :U For bowls its fine I have 75mm head somewhere in my random dispersal storage system:D
This arrangement works well it get me under the lip just fine and can you can reduce the head on the grinder down to 30mm dia, found under 30mm dia that the heat build up delaminates everything. I havent really sorted that one out yet other than to use with it a Ranque Hilsch vortex at the same time.

[hughie]

Now its moving to the slow part, where you spend hours for not much to show for it. So now I have layed out the design and what I normally do now is I use a small vee gouge usually on the Dremel and go over the pencil lines as with all the handling from now on the lines get blurred if not disappear altogether. Also I have run around the inside with a thinnish coat of poly varnish as I have a mind to darken the inside towards the end. If I dont use a clear coat to seal it, the chances are that the dark finish will soak through, but never evenly :) I also run around and make a few pencil marks of the important features just to remind.

[hughie]

The procedure is ongoing cut, file, shape n sand. This I am using Camphor Laurel which is soft, easy to carve etc, but the more I carve the weaker it gets, usually it would be some sort of hardwood, a great deal stronger but brittle . I sent one piece overseas and foolishly marked it 'fragile' it didnt arrive well. I think the Post Office took it on as a challenge :D

There is still along way to go once the basic shape is done then to carving the each individual spoke, sanding and it will be buffed at the end, which is a challenge in its self

[hughie]

As much as the main area has it fiddlyness the ends is where the detail becomes very important and often this is the weakest point in the carving. nothing really fancy in the way of tools, standard files and rasps.

[hughie]

Shaping is coming to an end, next the detailing

[hughie]

This detailing is perhaps one of the most fiddly I have attempted. I may have out smarted myself :U by making it so thin. But its getting there, some days it seem to be akin to watching grass grow:lbs:

Is it my imagination or has the link disappeared? I had trouble finding it, had to rope in Jim.

[hughie]

Done,

The Vortex in Camphor Laurel stands around 20cm x 12cm oiled with my own version of Danish Oil

[Picko]

Nice work Hughie!

[Alkahestic]

That's a real work of art Hughie. Really nice.

[hughie]

Darn got caught up in the middle of something and didnt mean to send it as it was only half done. A big edit coming up :D