Laminated Corian Pens

[macca2]

I have been following the various threads on laminating pens etc and thought I would try a bit a Corian.
The most difficult step is to get the cut edges sanded true enough to glue together without showing any gaps.
All comments welcome. (but be gentle)

macca;)

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Nice! Is the white corian a "snowflake" or the plain white?

[macca2]

The white in the top pen is plain white but the other two have a slight fleck.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I wasn't sure, 'tis a bit hard to tell from the pics. But still a very nice result.

Too date I've only inlaid bands of corian into timber, it hadn't occurred to me to do the whole pen in corian. D'Oh! :o

This will soon be remedied. :)

[darley56]

Very nice Macca you done well corian is tricky and sanding as to be strait flat hope to see some more of those from you, did you use CA glue or expoxi glue?

here's 1 of mine

[macca2]

Nice one Darley. I used the yellow label Super T CA glue on page 147 of the Carbatec catalogue. I find this much better with less failures than the cheaper brands

macca

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

You've both mentioned difficulty in sanding the corian flat enough to joint without gaps. :confused:

This isn't a problem I've encountered, BUT, as I've already said, I haven't tried gluing corian to corian. Is the flatness more critical than corian to wood or is it just a matter of technique? I've always cut my corian on the BS and sanded on a bench-mounted belt-sander, mainly to score the corian so the glue'll have something to bind to rather than any care for "flatness.".

I guess what I'm asking is: have I been lucky so far with timber being more... "forgiving" of slight oddities and should I take more care when working solely with corian?

[macca2]

I also cut my corian on the BS and then sand. I use a jig on the BS to get the cut straight and all at the same angle, I then sand to get the two surfaces as smooth as possible or I find you can see the joint. If you glue two pieces of corian as I have in the bottom pen using the uncut factory finished edges there is no visable join. After cutting on the angle I find it difficult to replicate this.
I find sanding on a flat piece of glass about as good as any.

Merry xmas
macca

[darley56]

You've both mentioned difficulty in sanding the corian flat enough to joint without gaps. :confused:

This isn't a problem I've encountered, BUT, as I've already said, I haven't tried gluing corian to corian. Is the flatness more critical than corian to wood or is it just a matter of technique? I've always cut my corian on the BS and sanded on a bench-mounted belt-sander, mainly to score the corian so the glue'll have something to bind to rather than any care for "flatness.".

I guess what I'm asking is: have I been lucky so far with timber being more... "forgiving" of slight oddities and should I take more care when working solely with corian?

Skew ChiDAMN!!, flatness for the corian is very important if not when you turn your pen you will see the seam or joint and it's not acceptable, cutting the corian is better at the BS .

Macca2 BS blade I use is 14tpi nice fine cut and less sanding, CA medium is good I use 5 minutes expoxi, this glue is more elastic than CA, CA is brittle when use with corian and more care as to be taken when drilling

[rodent]

Why dont you do what the corrian guys do they router there pieces then use an epoxy which is tinted to one of the colours ie. fiber glass tinting paste.

[darley56]

Why dont you do what the corrian guys do they router there pieces then use an epoxy which is tinted to one of the colours ie. fiber glass tinting paste.

I love my fingers very much and won't router a 10 or 15" long piece, belt sander is more safe