Need Advice - buying a table saw

[grevilleavic]

I'm looking at buying a table saw. My budget's about $1500. Originally I was looking at the DeWalt 2000W saw (TradeTools | Huge Range, Great Service (https://www.tradetools.com/dewalt-254mm-2000w-table-saw-dwe7491-xe?pid=DWE7491-XE&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=free+listings&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=&utm_campaign=18528739195&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIooGd-O2G_AIVl5NmAh1PaAgoEAQYAyABEgKFIfD_BwE)) as most of the online reviews point to this as being one of the best. But I'm not a contractor and I just want it for my indoor workshop, so it doesn't need to be portable, but it'll have to be on wheels, or be able to go on a wheeled base for shifting around to make space in my garage workshop. So maybe a half-cabinet/contractors saw would be better. I've seen these two: Woodman Pro 10" Contractor Table saw | Woodworking Machinery (https://gregmach.com/product/woodman-pro-10-contractor-table-saw/) and Just a moment... (https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/w452) and I was wondering if anyone had any opinions on these three saw as to which would be the better buy?

[BMKal]

I have the Hare & Forbes you have linked to, sitting on one of the wheeled bases that they have available. It is a 12 inch saw, which puts it a size above most others in the price range. it is also a "soft start" motor, so doesn't start with a "bang" and instantly at full revs like my previous cheapie.

In general, I am pretty happy with this saw - it is definitely a huge improvement over the Ozito that I had previously. I have found it very easy to make accurate cuts, with the blade angle easy to adjust and secure when locked into position. The fence is basic, but good and quite accurate once you have set it up.

The only possible negative that I could say about this machine is that the riving knife / splitter / overhead safety guard / dust extraction hood is garbage and I have never run my saw with any of this installed since trying it on day one. For starters - the riving knife / splitter is fixed to the body of the saw itself, meaning that it does not raise / lower with the blade, nor change angle with the blade. It sticks straight up at a constant height all the time and cannot be moved. The design of the "safety guard / dust hood" which bolts to the top of this riving knife / splitter is pretty useless, and only manages to get in the way, particularly if you are using the saw for fine cuts on small pieces etc. It might be OK for cutting large sheets and similar, but pretty useless for anything else.

I have made my own zero clearance insert with an in-built splitter to prevent kick-back, and this works much better than the part originally supplied, and also allows me to run my cross-cut sled without removing the insert / splitter. For angled cuts (tilting the blade) I do not use a splitter. Not ideal I know, but I rarely use the saw for this anyway. I have also made my own cross-cut sled, plus a small sled for cutting finger joints etc. as well as a fence extension which sits over the aluminium fence supplied with the saw. I have replaced the Start / Stop button with one that has a large STOP paddle over the switch and mounted it so that I can easily hit it with my knee / upper thigh to stop the saw when needed - this is not unique to this saw, I have done it to all my wood turning machinery.

520561

One BIG advantage of this saw in my opinion is that the shaft will accept a DADO blade set. Most other saws that I have looked at will not. I purchased and regularly use a DADO blade set with this saw, and this is one of the major selling points in my opinion.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

[Fuzzie]

I looked at these saws 2 years ago. It sort of depends on your plans for what you want to build. The 12" from H&F has the extra depth of cut of a 12" blade, but it has a fixed splitter not a riving knife. The Gregory's machine has a rise and fall riving knife that includes a quick adjustment feature that switches it easily from an above blade riving knife to a low riving knife suitable for non through cuts.

For various reasons I upped my budget and bought a small format slider. I wanted the H&F TS250RS but it was out of stock with a loooong lead time and eventually I settled for a version based on the ST254.

If I were to do it all again I would still go for the TS250RS if it was in stock.

[Treecycle]

I would be going for the Woodman if you have the room, but it has built in wheels so you don't need to buy a mobile base to go under it. The riving knife moving with the blade both rise and fall and also tilting is definitely a plus and it's hard to imagine using a saw that doesn't have that. The 2hp motor can be run on a normal 10apm circuit without any dramas. The extra cutting capacity you get with a 12" blade I find is rarely used for normal hobby type woodworking which is what I do. The fence looks to be a similar design to mine and it works very well, locks straight and stays true.

[Tonyz]

thought about looking at second hand? no idea whats available in your area.

[mpot]

One BIG advantage of this saw in my opinion is that the shaft will accept a DADO blade set. Most other saws that I have looked at will not. I purchased and regularly use a DADO blade set with this saw, and this is one of the major selling points in my opinion.

FWIW, the DeWalt DWE7491 that the OP first mentioned can take a dado blade.

[grevilleavic]

I have the Hare & Forbes you have linked to, sitting on one of the wheeled bases that they have available. It is a 12 inch saw, which puts it a size above most others in the price range. it is also a "soft start" motor, so doesn't start with a "bang" and instantly at full revs like my previous cheapie.

In general, I am pretty happy with this saw - it is definitely a huge improvement over the Ozito that I had previously. I have found it very easy to make accurate cuts, with the blade angle easy to adjust and secure when locked into position. The fence is basic, but good and quite accurate once you have set it up.

The only possible negative that I could say about this machine is that the riving knife / splitter / overhead safety guard / dust extraction hood is garbage and I have never run my saw with any of this installed since trying it on day one. For starters - the riving knife / splitter is fixed to the body of the saw itself, meaning that it does not raise / lower with the blade, nor change angle with the blade. It sticks straight up at a constant height all the time and cannot be moved. The design of the "safety guard / dust hood" which bolts to the top of this riving knife / splitter is pretty useless, and only manages to get in the way, particularly if you are using the saw for fine cuts on small pieces etc. It might be OK for cutting large sheets and similar, but pretty useless for anything else.

I have made my own zero clearance insert with an in-built splitter to prevent kick-back, and this works much better than the part originally supplied, and also allows me to run my cross-cut sled without removing the insert / splitter. For angled cuts (tilting the blade) I do not use a splitter. Not ideal I know, but I rarely use the saw for this anyway. I have also made my own cross-cut sled, plus a small sled for cutting finger joints etc. as well as a fence extension which sits over the aluminium fence supplied with the saw. I have replaced the Start / Stop button with one that has a large STOP paddle over the switch and mounted it so that I can easily hit it with my knee / upper thigh to stop the saw when needed - this is not unique to this saw, I have done it to all my wood turning machinery.

520561

One BIG advantage of this saw in my opinion is that the shaft will accept a DADO blade set. Most other saws that I have looked at will not. I purchased and regularly use a DADO blade set with this saw, and this is one of the major selling points in my opinion.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

Thank-you so much! That was really great information. I didn't know about the fixed riving knife/splitter assembly. That's actually a big problem to me. I really don't need the bigger blade, so I'm seriously thinking of taking this one out of the running and looking harder at the Woodsman...

[grevilleavic]

I looked at these saws 2 years ago. It sort of depends on your plans for what you want to build. The 12" from H&F has the extra depth of cut of a 12" blade, but it has a fixed splitter not a riving knife. The Gregory's machine has a rise and fall riving knife that includes a quick adjustment feature that switches it easily from an above blade riving knife to a low riving knife suitable for non through cuts.

For various reasons I upped my budget and bought a small format slider. I wanted the H&F TS250RS but it was out of stock with a loooong lead time and eventually I settled for a version based on the ST254.

If I were to do it all again I would still go for the TS250RS if it was in stock.

Thanks Fuzzie, Agreed, If I could afford something with a sliding table, then I'd be doing that too.

[grevilleavic]

I would be going for the Woodman if you have the room, but it has built in wheels so you don't need to buy a mobile base to go under it. The riving knife moving with the blade both rise and fall and also tilting is definitely a plus and it's hard to imagine using a saw that doesn't have that. The 2hp motor can be run on a normal 10apm circuit without any dramas. The extra cutting capacity you get with a 12" blade I find is rarely used for normal hobby type woodworking which is what I do. The fence looks to be a similar design to mine and it works very well, locks straight and stays true.

Thanks! I'm tending to agree with you. I don't need the bigger blade, and having the wheels on it already (presumably rated to the required weight) is a plus. And I can't imagine running a table saw with guard issues such as mentioned. Thanks for the advice!

[double.d]

I bought this one last week from Woodwork Machinery Plus at Sumner. Can't fault it as a saw, the inability to fit a zero clearance insert is its only downfall.

520577

[Treecycle]

Can't fault it as a saw, the inability to fit a zero clearance insert is its only downfall.

520577

Why can't you fit a zero clearance insert?

[derekcohen]

I would spend my money on a used machine, and expect to pay about 2/3 the price of a new machine.

I would aim for a 12” blade. You will thank it for the extra depth of cut soon enough.

Aim also for 3 hp. 2 hp would be the minimum. Australian hardwoods are hard. Anything under 2 hp will struggle.

A riving knife is important to avoid kickback. Capacity for a dado blade is of minimal importance to me.

Look in the classified advers here, FaceBook and Gumtree. Check the clubs near you.

Regards from Perth

Derk

[grevilleavic]

I bought this one last week from Woodwork Machinery Plus at Sumner. Can't fault it as a saw, the inability to fit a zero clearance insert is its only downfall.

520577

Hey double.d, How come I can't find that one on their website? (I didn't even know about these guys,.....Hare & Forbes, Gregories, Carbatec and SEQ WWSupplies are the only woodworking suppliers I was previously aware of).

[barramonday]

Here's another new option for you to consider (I have no experience with any of the saws mentioned), the current special price puts it right near your budget. Laguna 2020 Fusion 1 F1 Table Saw | Carbatec (https://www.carbatec.com.au/laguna-fusion-f1-tablesaw?CAWELAID=120414540000006061&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1LCygLOK_AIVjwkrCh0jKwJmEAYYAiABEgJ6Z_D_BwE)

Something to keep in mind the accessories can really mount up if don't already have (blades, feather boards, decent mitre gauge etc) used saws will often come with some of these.

[double.d]

Hey double.d, How come I can't find that one on their website? (I didn't even know about these guys,.....Hare & Forbes, Gregories, Carbatec and SEQ WWSupplies are the only woodworking suppliers I was previously aware of).

You are right, i bought the display unit and they had one other crated that was being delivered so maybe no stock. Give Bill or Bruce a call.
While searching i just found a zero clearance insert so thats good.

[double.d]

Why can't you fit a zero clearance insert?

The insert that comes with the saw is only 2mm thick and sits on screws within lugs that you adjust up and down. I would not trust a timber version to stay in place, could end in tears. On doing a search just now for the saw i found a zero clearance insert so will grab one.

[BMKal]

The insert that comes with the saw is only 2mm thick and sits on screws within lugs that you adjust up and down. I would not trust a timber version to stay in place, could end in tears. On doing a search just now for the saw i found a zero clearance insert so will grab one.

Try using UHMWPE such as in "plastic" kitchen cutting board instead of wood to make your own zero clearance insert. You can use a thicker material than your current insert - just reduce the thickness where the insert sits on those lugs with a router. I always make my inserts significantly thicker than the ones that came with my saw, and simply reduce the thickness where required for mounting the insert and for where the arbor hits the bottom of the insert when the blade is fully raised.
All of my inserts so far have been made from timber, but I picked up some cheap cutting boards from a kitchen supply last week and plan to make inserts for the table saw, band saw and drop saw from these.

[double.d]

I had to go over there so bought the zero clearance and it is now installed.

Woodwork Machinery Plus have now sold out of this saw and will be bringing in stocks of Sherwood