I need high accuracy on my bandsaw

[ThinBoards]

I've got a 24" Minimax bandsaw, and I need to do tons of resawing. Sometimes 1/8", sometimes 1/4", sometimes 3/16....you get the idea. All different thicknesses.

The thing is, I need to get my fence positioned exactly where I need it for a certain thickness, and then I need to be able to return to that exact position some time later, when I need more of that thickness.

Does Incra have something like this for a bandsaw fence? In addition, the fence needs to be high, since I'm resawing stuff up to 12" tall. I can build my own tall fence if needed, but it's the minute, accurate positioning that I need help with.

Ideas?

[Greg Q]

Greetings...

I often fall into the trap of wanting a new micro-positioner or digital
read-out for the most basic of tasks, so I appreciate your question.

May I suggest though, that you simply keep a few small pieces of the desired thicknesses tied together and placed on a hook on your saw's frame?

You can then quickly place the gauge piece between fence and blade, tighten and get right to work. This is the system that I use on my 24" saw.

Greg

[ThinBoards]

Thanks alot greg....no new toys for me.

Actually, I tried this once, and it wasn't working for me. That was quite a while ago. Not sure why it didn't work, as it sure seems simple enuf.

I'll revisit that simple solution.....thanks.

[Termite]

If accuracy is critical why aren't you running it through a thicknesser. :confused:

[ThinBoards]

I'm resawing, Termite.
I'm starting with stock on the order of 2" thick. I'm not about to run that thru a thickness planer, all the way down to 1/8".

So, I resaw it, just barely over 1/8", and then get it "dead on" via planer, or drum sander.

My next board, may need to be 3/16, and the next 1/4".

Make sense?

[Termite]

I'm resawing, Termite.
I'm starting with stock on the order of 2" thick. I'm not about to run that thru a thickness planer, all the way down to 1/8".

So, I resaw it, just barely over 1/8", and then get it "dead on" via planer, or drum sander.

My next board, may need to be 3/16, and the next 1/4".

Make sense?
I'm not a complete idiot, I know you are resawing, and up till now you haven't stated anything about a planer. :mad:

He just got sent a PM too.

[ThinBoards]

I haven't mentioned a lot of other tools, termite.
What's your point?

[silentC]

Termite's point is that if you are after accuracy and you are running it through your thicknesser anyway, why does the resawing have to be spot on?

[Wongo]

Thinboards,

If you try to resaw 10 “identical” boards from the same fence setting, you will get 10 very “similar” boards. The point is bandsaw will never give you 100% accuracy. You will always have to finish off the surface anyway (a thicknesser or plane). So why so picky about it?
:)

[Auld Bassoon]

Thinboards,

If you try to resaw 10 “identical” boards from the same fence setting, you will get 10 very “similar” boards. The point is bandsaw will never give you 100% accuracy. You will always have to finish off the surface anyway (a thicknesser or plane). So why so picky about it?
:)

Agree wholeheartedly with Wongo on this.

I do a fair bit of resawing, and no matter how careful one is with fence size and setup, bandsaw blade wander, even with the most splendid gadgets, will always occur because wood is not absolutely uniform in grain pattern, density, etc, etc. This means that one can get close to an intended thickness, but not absolutely so.

For these reasons, I always slice a few mm extra thickness, and finish off either with the jointer and then hand-plane, or just using a hand-plane, depending on what the purpose for the stock is, and the amount of it.

For cutting veneers, I tend to slice off sheets about 3 ~ 4mm thick, temporarily glue them to some flat MDF or such, and run them through the thicknesser to achieve uniform thickness, then out with some hand-planes again.

Cheers!

[ThinBoards]

Ok, I see what you all are saying.
Right now, each board I run thru my BS is within 1/64 of the previous board.

It's just that if I've need some 1/8" boards today, and some 7/16" boards tonight, and some 3/16" boards tomorrow morning, it would be nice to simply move my fence 'til my Incra jig hairline points to the proper number, and I'm all set....rather than doing the caliper measuring like I do now.

I realize I don't need to be "spot on" with the BS, but I'd like to return to any setting, for any thickness, easily.

Greg's suggestion may be the way to go. Incra just eMail'd me today, and said they have nothing to do this.

[underused]

The bandsaw's not the tool for that job mate. You need to be looking at a thicknesser. Most bench-tops these days have the capacity to return to exactly the same thickness everytime.
The bandsaw is usually used at the first stages of preparing stock, then moving on to something with more accuracy like a thicknesser. You probably already know this by now.

[redwood]

[quote=Termite]I'm not a complete idiot, I know you are resawing, and up till now you haven't stated anything about a planer. :mad:
quote]

now that thats cleared up:) trouble with something like incra fence if they had one and accurate resawing is drift. keep it simple adjust for drift just prior to re sawing and use a steel rule to mark a mill over. if your bs is tuned with a good blade it should be a peice of cake, then just thickness to final dimention:D

[Groggy]

A modified version of Greg's suggestion is what I would go for. Use a few sleds of different widths as spacers. That way you have constants to go by and the fence doesn't move. Parallax error will ensure some variation if the fence keeps moving whereas the sled/spacer option doesn't involve moving the fence at all.

[Wongo]

Incra just eMail'd me today, and said they have nothing to do this.

Exactly, they have fence for tablesaw, router table but nothing for the bandsaw. Do you know why?

Keep a sample or use a rule. It is that simple.

Anyway I hope it works out for you.:)

[redwood]

Exactly, they have fence for tablesaw, router table but nothing for the bandsaw. Do you know why?

Keep a sample or use a rule. It is that simple.

Anyway I hope it works out for you.:)

Incra fences are very precise. unless you have a very good and extreamly well tuned bs you cant get repeated uniform acuracy like on a rip saw. and they would have to factor in drift wich constantly changes with heavy resawing. if incra could they would :D

[ThinBoards]

Redwood, I have no drift issues that I can't easily resolve.

I'll think about what you wrote, Groggy.


I see the Incra item, that they call the TS-LS. They show it here:
http://www.incra.biz/Products/TSLS.html

I don't know if that TS-LS is that whole contraption in the photo, or just the instrument in the middle. That instument in the middle, looks like it could be attached to a bandsaw fence, and make it a piece of cake to set, and return, to any previous setting I've ever used.

For resawing 1/8" stock, I'd like to set my fence 1/8" from the blade, plus 3/64ths. For resawing 1/4" stock, I'd like to set my fence 1/4" from the blade, plus 3/64ths (you get the idea). Basically, when I resaw my stock 3/64ths over my desired thickness, I've left enough wood such that my planer can then remove the 3/64ths to get it dead on.

[silentC]

I think you would have a great deal of trouble fitting an Incra TS fence to your bandsaw. They need a heap of room to the left of the blade because of the length of the main column. The locking mechanism itself is about 8" wide.

However, if you are game you could cut one down to fit. Your main problem would be fitting the main column in the space between the blade and the pillar on your BS. You could offset it perhaps. You need enough length on that column to give you the range of adjustment you need to the left of the blade. Make it too long and you wont be able to cut thicker planks. Make it too short and you wont be able to do the smaller sizes.

Would be an expensive experiment though. Let us know if you do it ;)

[Groggy]

Another way is to clamp a reference block to the fence, then use spacer blocks of different lengths to allow you to quickly set the fence to 1/8, 1/4 etc.

Or, use a modified taper jig to do the cuts i.e. no taper, just set the notch to the blade where 1/8 or 1/4 or whatever is required. A jig for each setting would be needed.

After each cut, the log should be jointed to provide a reference surface for the fence to give the accuracy you want.

Some sites with info:
John Lucas's site - "Bandsaw resawing" (http://www.woodshopdemos.com/sss-11.htm)
Woodworkers Workshop (http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/sl/aw_bandsaw_resaw_main.htm?1009130201181825)
Maybe modify this TS jig for a BS. (http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip111700wb.html)

$ Plans
Bandsaw Table (http://store.woodstore.net/batasy.html)

Other Jigs:
Disc cutter (http://www.mulecab.com/BandSaw/)
Small parts pusher (http://www.openhere.com/hag/projects/hp42.htm)
A Lawyer's Sled Jig (I warned you) (http://users.goldengate.net/%7Ekbrady/LogSled.html)

Products:
Mule Fence (http://www.mulecab.com/BandSaw/)

Reference:
Resaw 101 (PDF File) (http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/library/resaw.pdf)

[Greg Q]

Kreg makes a bandsaw fence:

It has an optional micro-adjuster, but I wonder if the extrusion is long enough for your 24" saw?

Anyway, here's the link to this fence on sale until Jan 10...

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11852

Greg

[ThinBoards]

gregoryq (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/member.php?u=1733), I'm using that fence by Kreg, right now. It's barely long enough.
The micro adjuster is very good, and using the Kreg is much better than nothing at all. It doesn't, however, have any facility to return to a previous cut however.

Looks like my best bet will be to use spacer blocks, or a calipers.

[Bob Willson]

Just scribe a few lines onto your BS table. You can then visually set your blade width to whatever you want.
If that isn't repeatable enough, then drill a few holes at the correct places that will allow you to drop a pin into the hole and VERY accurately reset your fence to the desired width.

[Gwhat]

Hi all,

All the discussion is very logical and hunts around the key issue........What's the best way of getting repeatability????

That's where Incra have made their name and for simple bandsawing the reborn Incra Original Jig would seem to have all the features necessary.

This is a re-engineering of Incra's first jig from back in 1989, it has 200mm range and is super simple and basic, ideal for fitting on a bandsaw.

They will be available in FULL METRIC within 2 weeks.

At $133 for the positioner or $250 for the positioner & fence, right angle fixture etc. it's a inexpensive way of getting the famous Incra accuaracy. It comes with a very useful 1 hour DVD.

Check out http://www.woodworksupplies.com.au/category37_1.htm.

I hope this helps.

Regards

The Woodworker

[Wongo]

All the discussion is very logical and hunts around the key issue........What's the best way of getting repeatability????


No it is What's the point of getting repeatability????

[underused]

I think it's pretty safe to say that even highly tuned bandsaws cant produce the type of repeatable accuracy this gentleman wants. It's not a fence issue, it's a blade issue. A thicknesser can provide much more speed, repeatability in thickness accuracy. Resaw, Bandsaw. finish, thicknesser.
Cheers. Gary.