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maddog 62
8th January 2006, 02:47 AM
hello everyone
i trust we all got thought Crissy and the new years in one piece
like red11 i too am looking at making jewelery boxes but I'm going to make mine out of slices of mallee stumps, iv made a few clocks and like the grain pattens that you get
now my quiz is how fast should i have my router running at, i have a triton in my bench and a cheap GMC 1500 watt for my hand stuff
i most likely will be using both for the job so some guidance would be much appreciated
oh the bits i most likely be using are a flush trim bit and a core box bit

thanks

Rocker
8th January 2006, 06:50 AM
Maddog,

The speed that you use is dependent more on the diameter of the bit rather than the species of timber. Generally, you can use your router's maximum speed with bit less than 20 mm in diameter. Whether you get burning may also depend on the feed rate. If that is too slow, the wood may overheat and burn with high router speeds. With bits of 75 mm diameter and over, you should use the router's minimum speed of about 10,000 rpm. The third factor governing whether you get burning is the depth of your passes. With hard woods, it is advisable to take shallow passes so that the feed rate can be kept up.

Rocker

John Saxton
8th January 2006, 10:34 PM
Maddog,

The speed that you use is dependent more on the diameter of the bit rather than the species of timber. Generally, you can use your router's maximum speed with bit less than 20 mm in diameter. Whether you get burning may also depend on the feed rate. If that is too slow, the wood may overheat and burn with high router speeds. With bits of 75 mm diameter and over, you should use the router's minimum speed of about 10,000 rpm. The third factor governing whether you get burning is the depth of your passes. With hard woods, it is advisable to take shallow passes so that the feed rate can be kept up.

Rocker

As Rocker has stated the importance of shallow passes are paramount in reducing burning and therefore compromising the Tungsten on the router bit.

A good quality tungsten router bit will obviously hold an edge a lot longer and may enable you to minimise the passe's required whereas a mass produced cheaper set in OZ timber won't do it for you.You will find if using such a set that numerous honings will be required after the initial sharpness has worn off!

They are produced at a throw/away price similarly for that reason ie: that you'll go back for another.

I would suggest that with any OZ hardwood, as has been my experience in the past is to test drive a cut on a piece of timber offcut of the timber you're using with a series of pass'es and in the grain direction you desire.
Because Mallee stumps are of a dense nature and the grain "wild" at times try the lower speed settings on your router with off-cuts working up to a comfort level best suited for router/Timber/bit.

Cheers:)

maddog 62
9th January 2006, 09:13 PM
Rocker,John
thank you for your advice
i will take on board what both of you have said and see how i get on
(hopefully without too many problems)
thr router bits i have got to go the job are from CMT they probably not the top of the range ( i wouldn't know ) but i figured that they have to be a whole lot better than the ones that came with the GMC router. don't know just what I'm going to do with that lot, guess i will come up with something
i gives me an excuse to spend money on toys much to she who must be obeyed dismay:D


maddog

John Saxton
9th January 2006, 11:31 PM
Hi, CMT are well regarded for their router bits here in OZ ,and they should produce a good finish.

HOWEVER if your're using them on mallee or wild grain timber may I suggest you hone the flat surface of the router bit(the leading edge) with a diamond honing stick or a fine stone moreover if the bit(s) are not new.
This may prolong the service from your router bit and lessen the chance of "burning".

Cheers:)