MWF FEED
16th August 2023, 12:10 AM
I've come over from Woodwork Forums for advice on making several pairs of different sized offset spanners to slip below a router table to change router bits from above. Example shown below.
https://mcjing.com.au/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/4d5138c845b896b27a3c454db0bf5c6d/o/f/offset_design_wrenches_for_router_bit_changes_on_routers_1.jpg
I can't find the sizes I need online or elsewhere, so I'll have to make or modify some, but I don't know enough about metals to know what will work.
There's a fair bit of torque, at least in practical hand / arm strength if not serious engineering terms, required in some cases when undoing the collet chuck after the router has been used. One spanner needs to hold the collet chuck steady while another turns the nut to release the collet and bit.
I experimented with jaws cut by grinder in 3mm thick mild steel flat bar and as expected that spread the jaws when serious torque was applied.
That leaves me with the following choices, unless someone can suggest other choices, but I don't know if they're likely to work.
1. Cold bend drop forged chrome vanadium spanner.
2. Hot bend drop forged chrome vanadium spanner. MAPP gas is the hottest I have.
3. If 2 and 3 won't work, cut the jaws off a drop forged chrome vanadium spanner and MIG weld it to pre-bent mild steel flat bar, 3mm or thicker.
4. If the preceding ideas don't work, cut jaws with grinder and bend from flat bar. What thickness, if any, would work in mild steel? If mild steel not suitable 'as is', would it work if I hardened it with heat treatment and how hard would that be to do? Would tool steel be better? Or use existing hardened steel for the jaws, such as 2mm or slightly thicker old saw blades and MIG welded to mild steel handle?
FWIW, the spanners that come with a lot of routers are around 3mm thick from some sort of flat bar or perhaps drop or other forged, but clearly a lot stronger than mild steel.
Thanks for any suggestions or solutions.
Read the full thread at metalworkforums.com... (https://metalworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=209446&goto=newpost)
https://mcjing.com.au/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/4d5138c845b896b27a3c454db0bf5c6d/o/f/offset_design_wrenches_for_router_bit_changes_on_routers_1.jpg
I can't find the sizes I need online or elsewhere, so I'll have to make or modify some, but I don't know enough about metals to know what will work.
There's a fair bit of torque, at least in practical hand / arm strength if not serious engineering terms, required in some cases when undoing the collet chuck after the router has been used. One spanner needs to hold the collet chuck steady while another turns the nut to release the collet and bit.
I experimented with jaws cut by grinder in 3mm thick mild steel flat bar and as expected that spread the jaws when serious torque was applied.
That leaves me with the following choices, unless someone can suggest other choices, but I don't know if they're likely to work.
1. Cold bend drop forged chrome vanadium spanner.
2. Hot bend drop forged chrome vanadium spanner. MAPP gas is the hottest I have.
3. If 2 and 3 won't work, cut the jaws off a drop forged chrome vanadium spanner and MIG weld it to pre-bent mild steel flat bar, 3mm or thicker.
4. If the preceding ideas don't work, cut jaws with grinder and bend from flat bar. What thickness, if any, would work in mild steel? If mild steel not suitable 'as is', would it work if I hardened it with heat treatment and how hard would that be to do? Would tool steel be better? Or use existing hardened steel for the jaws, such as 2mm or slightly thicker old saw blades and MIG welded to mild steel handle?
FWIW, the spanners that come with a lot of routers are around 3mm thick from some sort of flat bar or perhaps drop or other forged, but clearly a lot stronger than mild steel.
Thanks for any suggestions or solutions.
Read the full thread at metalworkforums.com... (https://metalworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=209446&goto=newpost)