MWF FEED
28th August 2023, 10:00 PM
Hi party people,
I'm currently testing a couple of rust converters and other processes to arrest rust in seams that I either can't get to, or really don't want to.
I've used phosphoric acid, Fertan, one of the White Knight one step wonders, and others and they all have their pros and cons.
Where you have access to rinse and rub back the surface before painting, the Fertan is fantastic in converting the rust and is way less lethal than the phosphoric acid. However, where you have a seam, or an area that you can't rinse or get to with a wire brush, it gets tedious to use it. And if you don't wash it off it does affect the adhesion of the paint.
I got some old steel sheet with 20 years of rust on it to test some products on. I bought some Evapo-rust, CRC Rust converter and tried to get some Brunox (no one had any in stock locally, so have ordered some). The CRC product is interesting as they claim that it doesn't need to be rinsed, and that it is tannin free.
Test 1
The test on the sheet involved rubbing back a line to bare steel so there was a bright spot, a powdery transition zone and the flakey rust so I could compare the creep of the product and it's effectiveness on the different surface conditions. I tried pouring the Evapo-rust on, and then did the same with Fertan, phosphoric, and a PPG metal conditioner (that is essentially dilute phosphoric).
Test 2
I had some test coupons from trying tig brazing and these had rusted and sprayed the CRC onto them.
Test 3
.I poured Evapo-rust into the seam of a test coupon and kept it topped up for an hour.
Test 4
The directions for Evapo-rust say that you should bath the item in it. So I threw another coupon in for comparison
On Test 1 I also poured on, and brushed on boiled linseed oil mixed in equal parts with turpentine to compare the creep, which is amazing.
Photos to follow.
Read the full thread at metalworkforums.com... (https://metalworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=209481&goto=newpost)
I'm currently testing a couple of rust converters and other processes to arrest rust in seams that I either can't get to, or really don't want to.
I've used phosphoric acid, Fertan, one of the White Knight one step wonders, and others and they all have their pros and cons.
Where you have access to rinse and rub back the surface before painting, the Fertan is fantastic in converting the rust and is way less lethal than the phosphoric acid. However, where you have a seam, or an area that you can't rinse or get to with a wire brush, it gets tedious to use it. And if you don't wash it off it does affect the adhesion of the paint.
I got some old steel sheet with 20 years of rust on it to test some products on. I bought some Evapo-rust, CRC Rust converter and tried to get some Brunox (no one had any in stock locally, so have ordered some). The CRC product is interesting as they claim that it doesn't need to be rinsed, and that it is tannin free.
Test 1
The test on the sheet involved rubbing back a line to bare steel so there was a bright spot, a powdery transition zone and the flakey rust so I could compare the creep of the product and it's effectiveness on the different surface conditions. I tried pouring the Evapo-rust on, and then did the same with Fertan, phosphoric, and a PPG metal conditioner (that is essentially dilute phosphoric).
Test 2
I had some test coupons from trying tig brazing and these had rusted and sprayed the CRC onto them.
Test 3
.I poured Evapo-rust into the seam of a test coupon and kept it topped up for an hour.
Test 4
The directions for Evapo-rust say that you should bath the item in it. So I threw another coupon in for comparison
On Test 1 I also poured on, and brushed on boiled linseed oil mixed in equal parts with turpentine to compare the creep, which is amazing.
Photos to follow.
Read the full thread at metalworkforums.com... (https://metalworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=209481&goto=newpost)