How to fill cracks in deck from sleepers

[Cklett]

Hi, we have a deck made of 75mm thick hardwood sleeper next to our pool.

I bereave the previous owners never applied any finish to it. I want to do that now. Some areas have quite some cracks and voids and with some I am afraid the kids might get splinters when running on it. So I have to address that.

Any idea what to do with that? My first thought was to fill these with epoxy and hence stabilising the wood and stopping from further splintering. But I am not sure how well epoxy would endure out there in the sun.

The other thought was to lift the worst ones and maybe flip over if the under side looks better. But these screws do not come out. Any tip how to remove these screws? The impact driver does nothing or the heads break off.

Here some pics.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230913/674735ff23b61c149bc3fd0159207a54.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230913/131bae0108000227fc1bd44260854a9f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230913/a1f11b588be484bdd2ed80233b656a25.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230913/b3d0869d3eddb74831b7445695bd2b65.jpg

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[r3nov8or]

It looks like they are bugle head batten screws with a hex drive - very common for fixing sleepers. They were probably galvanised early in their life but the elements and (probably) treatment of the timber has destroyed the gal over many years, and the expanding rust will have binded (bound?) to the boards and joists and you'll be very lucky to remove them with great success. But maybe try flooding a screw head with WD40 (it will soak in, gradually give it as much as it will take) and leave it overnight. Get a nail punch and give it a good hit in the hex 'bed' and it might break the rust bind, then try the impact driver. FYI the WD40 will stain the timber and you'll probably need to use an oil based coating when the time comes...

If you clean out the voids/knots etc and add 2-pac epoxy, I think that would last well in the elements, probably longer than the wood... If you can get a small round-over bit into the gaps, I would also route any edges with jagged splinters. But the worst boards may need replacing

[Bushmiller]

It looks like they are bugle head batten screws with a hex drive - very common for fixing sleepers. They were probably galvanised early in their life but the elements and (probably) treatment of the timber has destroyed the gal over many years, and the expanding rust will have binded (bound?) to the boards and joists and you'll be very lucky to remove them with great success. But maybe try flooding a screw head with WD40 (it will soak in, gradually give it as much as it will take) and leave it overnight. Get a nail punch and give it a good hit in the hex 'bed' and it might break the rust bind, then try the impact driver. FYI the WD40 will stain the timber and you'll probably need to use an oil based coating when the time comes...

If you clean out the voids/knots etc and add 2-pac epoxy, I think that would last well in the elements, probably longer than the wood... If you can get a small round-over bit into the gaps, I would also route any edges with jagged splinters. But the worst boards may need replacing

r3nov8or

That's a pretty good first approach.

CK

I would try also, after "treating" the screws with some penetrating fluid, toggling the impact driver back and forward a few times: Just a quick burst in each direction before trying to completely withdraw the screw and don't worry if there is no movement initially. It is just a means of breaking the bond similar to the punch into the screw head (small punch: Don't damage the hexagon) described above.

If a head does break off, you may be able to prise the sleeper up with a suitable pinch bar/lever. The remains of the protruding screw can be cut flush with an angle grinder and a thin cutting disc or a hacksaw if you are really keen.

Good luck as it may not be a quick job.

Regards
Paul

Edit: The rounding over is a good idea too. The limitation will be the diameter of the bottom bearing. Or you could try the same with a bit that has a guide instead of a bearing as the guides are probably less than ¼". The guide type tend to burn, but down the sides of the sleepers that won't be noticeable in a deck.

[ErrolFlynn]

I doubt flipping them would work. They seem to be cut to match the edge of the bricks and stonework. Chances are the ends have been cut with a slight bevel to allow them to butt up to the bricks and rocks nicely. If you flip them they may not look as good. And they might not fit when flipped. The surface texture and colour may not match the others when flipped. That would be a lot of work for nothing.

If I were you I'd leave them in place, ignore the rusting screws, and focus only on addressing the splinter issue.

PS. That's a nice looking wall.

[havabeer69]

If you're going to use epoxy to fill any voids, i'd be tinting it black. The clear stuff will yellow from UV exposure.

I'd give it a sand first and get it back to fresh wood and make a call about the splintering after that.

Also if you decide to oil/coat the wood. Make sure what ever pool chems you use are compatible so you dont get blotches and stains

[jack620]

I reckon epoxy will just fall out. A pool deck is subject to frequent wet/dry cycles causing the wood to expand/shrink. I’d be surprised if the epoxy lasted a year. I would do as haveabeer suggested and sand it back. Then apply a finish to seal the wood. And reapply it every year. If you really want to fill the voids I would look at one of the self-levelling flexible gap fillers by Sika.

[jpdv]

Some good advice. Epoxy is pretty sun and weather sensitive, and not that flexible. It'll not be a good answer. If they're all too difficult to remove (which is what I'd do...) then 'brutal' attack with aggressive sanders and filling bad holes with some sort of flexible marine filler might be the 'least bad' option.

[twosheds]

Black Sika 291 marine sealant could be your (expensive) friend here. Sandable once it has fully cured. It will be time consuming using a caulking gun to squirt it into the gaps but has been proven in the marine environment.

[r3nov8or]

Black Sika 291 marine sealant could be your (expensive) friend here. Sandable once it has fully cured. It will be time consuming using a caulking gun to squirt it into the gaps but has been proven in the marine environment.

That sounds like the right stuff!! :)
However expensive and time consuming, not as much as redoing the site

[Tonyz]

grab an industrial floor sander from your local hire shop, you pay for the pads you use and Id guess there would be plenty

[Cklett]

Thanks for your feedback.

ErrolFlynn, I believe you are right. I can not simply flip a board. It might be that I have to replace one or two sleeper entirely if I cannot get the surface in OK state. Then at least I do not need to focus how to get the screws out. I can just destroy the existing board, etc.

Anyway, I think I have a plan for attack now.

1. I will sand down the boards to a reasonable state. I was thinking of hiring a floor sander, but this deck is rustic, and that means the boards are not fully level. That would mean a lot of sanding. Instead, I will use an angle grinder with a sanding disk. Does.not have to be perfect as the deck is of rustic style.

2. The areas with cracks and risk of splinters in kids' feet I will use the Sika 291 to fill and smooth. I believe it will only be a few areas not too much

3. Apply decking oil as instructed

4. Make sure not to let it deteriorate again and keep it maintained [emoji6]

All this is going to be overlooked by the foreman

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[Cklett]

grab an industrial floor sander from your local hire shop, you pay for the pads you use and Id guess there would be plentySorry Tony, I guess I was typing same time as you. I am not sure about the floor sander as the boards are not fully even and at some areas at slightly different heights.

But I am still thinking to go to a local hire shop and talk to them and have a look. Maybe it is still worth for the bulk of the work and then do some localised spot sanding.

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[Simplicity]

Sorry Tony, I guess I was typing same time as you. I am not sure about the floor sander as the boards are not fully even and at some areas at slightly different heights.

But I am still thinking to go to a local hire shop and talk to them and have a look. Maybe it is still worth for the bulk of the work and then do some localised spot sanding.

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I hate too say this, but sanding I don’t think will work,
Yes sanding the boards, will bring the timber up Loverly, but due too the screws close approximately to the top of the board, your going too tear up the sanding drums on the sander, an there not cheap.

Either get the screws down by another five mm or scrap the boards,

I know it’s a pain, i know the costs involved!!

You may get the screws out with a heavy duty rattle gun, I would actually first try to drive the screws further in then back them out.

We did a job a few years back, re surfing a deck(Sanding an re staining it,was three full days work on the screws alone, pull out the old screw, counter sink, pre drill, drive in the new screws.




Cheers Matt.

[ErrolFlynn]

Something like this might work: Drum Sander / Polisher DP100 (https://www.agp-powertools.com/products/dp100)