Mango cheese platter

[ziggles]

I am turning a 360mm cheese and bikkie platter out of mango. I always sand down to at least 1200 grit and most times 2000. To finish i will use sanding sealer after sanding down to 400 grit and let dry. Then sand down to 1200 and seal again. Then apply coats of eee and then shellawax cream. What other ideas are used to polish and seal this type of wood?:)

[hughie]

[
. Then apply coats of eee and then shellawax cream. What other ideas are used to polish and seal this type of wood?:)[/quote]

Ziggles,

I have found that shellawax will degrade when it comes in contact with water on a regular basis. So use a satin finish polyurethane or one of the regular type wax finishes ie carnuba, beeswax. If you use a polyurethane it may take a couple of weeks for it to go fully hard and all the solvent smell to leave the platter.
If you follow R.Raffan he uses linseed oil to highlight the grain and then carnuba to finish. The wax finishes will need regular maintenance to keep up the patina/shine/finish etc.

Have a search of the forum its bound to have come up before or go the the finishes section of the forum

hughie

[rsser]

If it's to be regularly used and washed, then I'd just soak her for a few days in a nut oil and then let it sit to harden. After that just a quick wipe with oil (but not olive) to maintain it.

[Captain Chaos]

If it's to be regularly used and washed, then I'd just soak her for a few days in a nut oil and then let it sit to harden. After that just a quick wipe with oil (but not olive) to maintain it.
__________________
Cheers,
Ern
G'day Ziggles,
I read somewhere that American Walnut oil is the best choice for finishing timber items to be used for food. I think that some one in Sydney is importing & distributing it. The article may have been posted here at UBWWF a while back.
Sorry I can't be of more help, the grey matter isn't functioning too well, it's just too blanky hot over here at the moment.:eek:
Regards,
Barry.

[Cliff Rogers]

.......a quick wipe with oil (but not olive) to maintain it.

Why don't you use olive oil Ern?

Interested to know 'cos that is exactly what I do use on our salad bowls & cheese/bread boards.

[Baz]

Cliff, olive oil can go rancid, this has been discussed before. You are right, it was the 22 second f..t that done it for me too.:D
Cheers
Barry

[Gra]

Sounds tasty. show us pics when your done

[rsser]

Yeah, wot Baz said.

The odd wipe-over may not matter if the articles get a regular wash with a detergent mix.

btw Richard Raffan's brother is/was a production turner in Tassie - mate of mine worked for him for a year. Everything went into the oil bucket for finishing - linseed or safflower or something like that.

Edit: Barry, you can buy walnut oil in a good supermarket or foodie place, but I'm not sure it's worth the $$

[Captain Chaos]

Thanks Ern, I reckon that I've seen walnut oil at the supermarkets or a health food shop at some stage in my travels. The price is definitely hard to justify.
I've not turned anything that requires a food safe finish yet so I haven't really looked into food safe finish requirements at this time - but that could all change very soon.
Regards,
Barry.

[Buzza]

My two bob's worth here, is similar to another view. Cheap vegetable is what we've used for 30 years in our kitchen. Our cutting baords, ladles etc get a douse of vegetable oil once in a while, and we let that soak in for a day or so. The secret to all food surfaces is cleanliness, and a quick wipe over with dish washing water will clean up the item.

It should be edible oil, and not toxic, so play it safe. Many bugs come from cutting salads up on a board that has been used to cut up fresh meat beforehand, without being cleaned just scraped. Use seperate boards for these jobs, that is the safest way.

Buzza.

[rsser]

Barry, I've done just one salad bowl. That was too big to immerse so I kept painting on coats of oil until I got sick of it. After a couple of years use it's developed that patina that Raffan writes favourably about and I don't bother to re-oil it.

[hughie]

Hi,
This is my second attempt had a crash so I ma not sure if the first got through.

All the talk about oil finishes is very timely as I am about to do a couple of salad bowls. I have use polyurethane on previous attempts but have never really been satisfied.

But by the look of it oil is the way to go see the links below:
http://www.woodweb.com/KnowledgeBase/KBWEWoodProperties.html
http://www.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF11/1121B.html
http://www.mapleblock.com/uploads/University_of_Wisconsin_Simple_Version.pdf
http://www.mapleblock.com/detail/care--maintenance-42/
http://www.mapleblock.com/uploads/White_Mineral_Oil_MSDS_2005.pdf

hughie

[Baz]

Kunos oil is food safe, this is produced by Livos. Wood Wipe by Organ Oil is another food safe one. If you are after Kunos you can buy a small jar from Bungendore Wood Works.
Cheers
Barry

[Gil Jones]

Walnut oil is good, but some folks are deathly allergic to nut oils of any kind. Mineral oil works, does not harden, won't spoil, and is easy to maintain with a wipe on every so often.
Never heard of Kunos oil, will have to look it up.
Gil